Your LBS (and even Halfords) sell the sets of axles, cones and balls that will solve your problem. Of course you cant replace the cups – theyre built into your hubs. If youve sh****d them then its you own fault.

Damn you too! lol

Lee – of course I dont mind! I'm flexible on times but usually do a 2 1/2 – 3 1/2 hour loop (taking in a few breaks / views etc) and need to be finished by 12.00. So probably an 8.30 start. I usually start at either Harlaw and more recently Bonaly. I was there yesterday and it was very muddy in places.

btw – it's that wee comment wasnt about me! Honest!

I'll be out in the Pentlands early (need to be finished by noon for work) if that's your kinda thing.

You could make one yourself with bits from Maplin (2.1 / 5.5mm DC plug and socket) or someone one here got one of these (which works out cheaper):

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1-5M-2-1mm-DC-POWER-EXTENSION-CABLE-LEAD-CCTV-CAMERA_W0QQitemZ170388377895QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CCTV?hash=item27abf05127#ht_2091wt_1165

PeterPoddy / Zokes / Crazy Legs – I agree with you: if its for bringing it on a mtb – then a compact is the best (so long as you bring it with you). I'm not "up" on current models so I cant recommend a particular one. For me any DSLR on a bike is a bit of a pain due to their shape (with a lens sticking out) as much as anything.

Hi User-Removed – I gotta disagree with you. All with the same field of view – a 120mm f2.8 of a large format camera has a dof of a gnats eyelash, on a medium format an 80mm f2.8 an eye ball, on 35mm a 2.8 50mm = 1/4 face and 35mm on a "compact" dslr – a full head (probably more) and on a compact (tiny sensor) nearly infiniate dof. I dont know the science behind it – that's my experience. I've got all types – its horses for courses for me.

Hi Ton – I take photos for a living – so take what I say with that in mind.

For your budget youre very very close to getting a Canon 5D Mk1 used. That gets you a full frame sensor and some great flash control. But it will be used, and although much doesnt go wrong with them…… etc.

A full frame sensor means less DOF which is great for bike shots.

I gotta say though – I carry £30k worth of gear with me on my day job but bring a po*y wee panasonic out on my mtb. Not really to do with the money (I'm insured to hell) but to bring a decent camera, lens, tripod and flash means I dont have any room for water, tubes etc. But I mtb to get away from my job – you may be different!

In answer to the op – no. Not in disguise – but an illegimate relation with all the basic characteristics. I'd guess the lupine was sent to china to be manufactured and they (dont sue me) decided to clone it. Its not EXACTLY the same but I saw a rollover beamshot recently and couldnt tell the difference.

IMO the lupine will be more reliable and will have UK support. The DX may need the support of some bodging and a soldering iron and you probably wouldnt trust it as much as a lupine. Also the DX battery pack just isnt waterproof (eg cardboard ends and a hole where wire comes out and you can see the circuit board) and I imagine the lupine is but the DX can be "fixed" with some cling film and sticky tape and silicon sealant.

Is it as good – probably not. Is the Lupine £225 better – depends on how much £225 is worth to you.

PS I've got a DX. Its gone dodgy on me after 4 weeks – but I enjoy the challenge of fixing it. If I could afford £225 extra – would I buy 4 spare DX's or just 1 Lupine – personally I'd have to go with the former and deny the tax man his 35% cut. But that's just me and my penchant for fettling.

Mine came with a nearly full charge and light went green after 20 mins or so.

A common problem I think.

Most common fixes are given here – with pics:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=227518

From my experience (my wife bought me my only ever training course) and when she was researching what she'd buy for me – if she'd come across the main photo on your home page I'd probably be banned for life from a MTB never mind booking your course! OK I admit I keep her a little in the dark.

So maybe think about your target audience. I might suggest 3 photos to represent 3 aspirational skills – easy, medium, tough.

As others have mentioned – personally I wouldnt email you about dates / prices: I'd expect to see a list of dates / prices that I can come along to alone or with a mate.

Obviously the dead links are a no no. Looks amaturish.

Also Christmas is coming. Do you do vouchers?

Overall though – I like the look and feel. Good luck!

There are 2 very similar to the magicshine at 'reasonable' cost.

Chain reaction do a 'Nuke Proof' with a P7 head and a 4 cell battery. £200 I think.

On-one do the same light under the name LUU. Around £150.

If it helps – I've put some beamshots of a Fenix and a P7 torch here (along with others).

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=556304

Brilliant! Funniest mtb video I've ever seen, no matter how old it is!

btw – I've got a Dirtschool DVD that I could part with for £10 posted. Perfect nick. My email is my profile if anyones interested.

ps Hope I'm not breaking any rules by not putting this in the classifieds.

Cheers guys! That sorted it :-)

There are cheaper alternatives that appear to be as good as the more expensive options. For example I've got a clone of a Lupine Tesla 5 rrp £325 (its from DX and is called a Magicshine – £50). I've also got 2 DX SSC P7 torches (around £35 each plus chargers and batteries). All are great lights – but and its a really BIG but – they have all (yes all) been unreliable.

My newest – the Magicshine – started playing up tonight going down a single track. Same problem as the 5 mode torch had – it changes mode or turns off every time you hit a bump. Not the end of the world if you're in town etc but coming down a mountain its a big deal. Fortunatly I've learnt my lesson with the torches – I never ride with just one light.

On tonights ride there were 10 folks – nearly everyone had 2 lights. Roughly 20 lights in total. Mostly LEDs, mostly expensive. Types were Ay-Ups, Lupines, Hopes various HIDs and a halogen. I was the only one with a light failure.

Tomorrow I've got to go and figure out what the problem is and probably bodge a repair as for me its not worth my while sending it back to Hong Kong under warranty (I'll actually enjoy the challenge of fixing / soldering it and will post some tips for any others in the same boat).

IMO – Sure anything can fail but on balance you get what you pay for. And if you buy cheap – buy 2 to be safe.

Hi Rob,

I may be able to come along but wont know 'til nearer the time.

Kennyp has posted a brief report on the Wed night ride in the "Sunday 11th post".

Hi Kenny – thanks for the great route (and the weather – how'd you manage to arrange that?). I cant believe I've been cycling past some of those bits and not known they were there.

It was great to meet everyone and have a good chat (on the easier bits).

Cheers Steve for the improvised 'bar mounted shock absorber for DX bike lights' (aka a chunky velcro strap).

This is quiet common ! A brilliant torch but I think the cost is kept down by skipping QA.

I've bought 2 for myself and 2 more for friends. Out of this 4 – 2 developed similar faults. Another had a "driver" fault that required soldering.

Try following these instructions:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=227518

Or you could just send it back to DX for a replacement.

3,5,7 Ultimate and BB7 are all the same.

Fab photos Kit! They're helping me get over the pain!

Cheers Kennp! See you there.

stevenmenmuir – Member
Myself and a mate will be going out tomorrow night so will try and get to the shop for half six.

Hi Steven, I dont think we've met. Is it ok if I come along? How long are you planning on being out for?

Re NikNak's link – I got one of those but it doesnt fit oversized bars. However a quick cut soon gets rid of the excess bar mount loop and then the rest can be cable tied on. Hasnt broken yet but doesnt allow the mount to be rotated or tweaked left / right (to counter bar sweep).

I think this was taken just after that really sharp climb after Therpmuir near the end. Thank god I'm out of focus in the background or I'd probably be looking even more unhappy!

+1 for Bolle. Available at screwfix. Keeps the dog poo out of my eyes!

Hi guys. It was great to meet you all and thanks for not laughing too much at my dumb ass tumble! Sorry I had to scoot off before the very end. I was wanted home so we could go out for a nice long walk :(. Now I'm really knackered.

Hope to meet you all again and I'm def interested in the evening rides.

Its working fine for me.

What browser you using? You may have a problem with cookies left by multimap on your pc. You should be able to find and delete the multimap ones and it might help.

Plus 1 for swampthing.

I've got a supertacky version and its mentally grippy in most things. Until youre on a long climb. Then the rolling resistance is hard work.

But I use mine in the snow – I always gets amazed looks from folk: that a person can stay upright on a bike when they're having trouble walking!

Answers in this link. Personally, as I live in Scotland, ride mainly XC and AM I use sintered for everything apart from races.

If you want to know more feel free to ask.

http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=12647836&highlight=sintered+ceramic

I got some kevlar pads and think they're fine. Squeal like a mad witch in the wet. More 'feel' than the sintered versions (In Formula Oro calipers) but to be honest I've gone back to the sintered ones.

ps – I wonder if you'll get any replies with photos of an Octopus.

I was considering buyine one of these but saw a review of this HID on a MTBR "lights shootout" either 2008 or 2007 – comparing it to other lights. It didnt come out great – but then it was cheap at the time in comparison to the alternatives. Nowadays I'd definitly get a DX bike light (aka Magicshine / bastid light!) : for £50 you'll be well impressed.

You can find a brightstar beamshot here:
http://www.mtbr.com/beamcomparisoncrx.aspx

and user reviews here:

http://www.mtbr.com/cat/accessories/Lights/brightstar/levin/PRD_417633_130crx.aspx

I must say that in this day and age what with interwebgoogleblogstweets the sheer mechanical crunchiness of a chain being mangled by derailleurs is a refreshing reality check. I hope my car's gearbox doesnt work the same way!

Hi Tandem – we can have a competition on the crashing part!

Stuartie – Tue/Wed sounds good to me.

Does it sound like a good idea to post a "night ride pentlands proposal" type thread?

epicsteve – Did you got for a torch or the "dedicated" bike light?

Kit- I regularly ride the Water of Leith to Balerno but dont know how to get from there to the Scout centre by bike. If you're agreeable I can meet you somewhere near / at Murrayfield Stadium (where I join from the Blackhall cycle path) and cycle from there and you can show me the route!

Hi guys,

I've not met any of you before (I think?) but been a 'lurker' on here for a while and am a Pentlands regular. Is there any etiquette for coming along? A slab of beers / chocolate biscuits etc ???

Im a pretty good climber – but a wheel bender descender. I'm starting to realise that the hills are free but the rims are flipping expensive !

If anyone want a lift for NW Edinburgh (Blackhall / Craigleith / Stockbridge …) I've got 1 spare bike carrier on the roofrack.

BTW – if any of you are up for night time rides weeknights (pref. near Edinburgh) – then I'm game. And if anyone wants to borrow some lights – I'm happy to lend some MTE SSC P7 torches.

Back on topic – I got one. Nothing to do with Superstar btw. I got it from Leisure Lakes for £54 posted. For that I thought it was worth a punt and so far it's fine. I've cable tied a section of inner tube to act as a gaiter.

It's easy to take apart. It doesnt shoot open or anything. The air unit / damper is sealed.

There's no suspension at all when it's at full height. When you drop it – it doesnt go down all the way – mine drops around 85mm. The rest of the travel is left as a form of suspension – although it's a by product of the design. I dont think I've done any seated pedalling when its been dropped so I dont know if it would 'bop'. Mine has a small amount of side to side play but I never notice it when onboard.

From the min insertion mark to the seat rails is 27cm. Mine weighs 660g.

I've posted some beamshots and comments here:
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=556304

omg. That is the same scale that mbr reviewed in the last few months from a uk reseller. I got one – cost around £12 posted. It's pretty good – but the hook is a little on the small side so I have to use a bungee. Swaps from kg to lbs ets. Pretty accurate. Just dont drop it. Overall – just go for it!

I think you've got 4 choices:
– Instead of clicking through the modes get used to turning it off (big click) and back on again. OK it'll probably go into med mode: not ideal.
– You could bypass the driver and direct drive the LED. I dont know if I'd recommend this for battery / LED longevity – perhaps someone else could reply.
– You could buy a 2 mode driver and connect this (candlepower forums are a good source of info on which one to pick).
– As you've already got the batteries and charger what about selling the 5 mode and buying a new 2 mode : just Hi and Low to cycle through?

Bear in mind I've not done exactly what you require – I've just had to resolder the connections on the driver board on an MTE SSC P7 5 mode. To do the direct drive mod you'll need to remove the LED / Star / driver. Doing this can be a bugger in some cases are they're glued in to their threads so considerable force may be required.

Once you've got it out find the where the +V is on the driver board – ie where the battery spring connects to. Desolder +V wire going from the driver going to LED and (if its long enough-otherwise a new bit of insulated wire will be required) solder it onto where the spring is connected to. Reassembly will require new thermal transfer paste. No change required to the clicky switch – it will just turn on and off.

Good luck!