From 3:10 on – that is just insane!

Robin – I’d love to make it – but missus says otherwise. Have to go buy a rug. ffs!

ime Parkers prices are an average. So a car that claims to have a fsh – but like a lot of cars – that claim doesnt stand close scrutiny, is included in the average. Honest clean cars that have been looked after will probably achieve at least what Parkers says.

But on average – they are probably pretty close. And of course some folk add on a margin for bartering etc.

You probably know this already – but this free government run service is great place to see a mileage history (and recurrent mot failures):
http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring/OwningAVehicle/Mot/DG_10020539

You dont really need tires.

I found some reviews of this stuff. I got a basic keypad one and it seems good to me. Seriously loud, no falsies so far. Beeps loudly when I enter.
Xena Motorcycle Security[/url]

Available from M&P direct.

IME (actually the missus-moved from NI to Scotland) so long as they can get to you with a letter they dont give a damn. If you still own the original address then there’s even less to worry about.

Agree with all the above. The only thing is you have any existing gear for either brand. Then stick with it.

If starting from scratch, and would like a slightly better choice of second hand, then Canon gets my vote. Not much in it though!

I had this on my original MS. It went intermittent where the head unit plugs into the battery. A gentle wiggle about on the worktop isolated it.

I tried the Maplin connectors but they will no longer be ‘weatherproof’ and come apart easier then the MS ones out on the trail. You also have to do a fiddly solder in the plug and socket (live wires in the battery side) and the strain relief isnt great (the grommet / throat bit seems too big) so it didnt last long.

Next I got a MS ‘extension’ lead from DX (I also saw them for sale online in the UK recently). I cut this in half to use both sides as ‘pigtails'(if that’s the right term?). Then cut the original cables short of the dodgy connectors (for the battery side you’ll need to cut the inner + and – separatly or you’ll short the battery). Some easy wire to wire soldering, heatshrink and self amalgamating tape: job done and still working.

Edit: one of these: ebay extension
Take care if / when soldering the battery side cable. It’s live remember.

The small print will say that items arent covered where they are covered by another insurance company. The mobile phone insurance may well specifically exclude damage by water (ime). Apparently too many people drop their phone in the loo when they want an upgrade.

Either way, start with the phone insurance and take it from there (imo).

Giantrekalised

plus

GianTrekHalford-Alised

Anti-snobbery, that’s where it’s at. From a Ragley, Whyte owning sheep 🙂

I dont know what an e2 is – but my 2 week old Xen replacement worked out more expensive than buying a new one from Ribble 🙁

Mini – rant:

Thomson seatposts. It says on the tin:

• Impact absorbing clamps – clamps, head, and assembly will spread and flex on impact to protect seat, rails, seatpost and rider.

In other words – if you hit something hard the saddle is fubar and the seatpost is too! To be fair though – they do sell spares but a saddle will never sit happily in the clamp again ime.

Giro Helmets (Crash replacement policy): you can buy a new one online for less than they charge for the “benefit” of a crash replacment.

Specialized accessories – eg saddle bags that last 3 weeks, pumps that last 3 months, helmets where the strap adjusters keep moving,….. To be fair – if I can find receipts they do replace stuff (eg I’ve had 4 free saddlebags and a helmet in the last year but I dont want the hassle).

BETD / Endura HTII bearings.

Rockshox lower inner damper seals. 3 times in 3 years I’ve had to send different forks back under warranty for EXACTLY the same problem. Still better than the Fox stanchion reputation I reckon 😉

Plus 1 for Argentina(why cant I use the plus sign?). Cooked on an open fire as we sat around the campfire. Not sure it was just a steak though. More like half of a bullock.

Dumfries is closer though!

Tonight was a huge milestone for me but really a pretty straight forward night time off road ride after some broken bones. Six weeks healing and things still niggling a bit but overall – Im nearly there. Yeeeee Haw!

Need some new goals now to get back on track. Im surprised how the legs havent really lost it!

When did being a puss y become “like a man”? Real men dont really need brakes – just balls!

Seriously – pads are up there on the same scale as dentist charges for rip offs!

My Enduro nds lasted 3 weeks before getting notchy. Pants. Never again. In comparison my original XT lasted 12 months.

Hi carlosg – if you’re getting some can you get me some or do some sort of a group buy thing? Im willing to bet they’re the same as in reba’s and rev’s.

In the meantime I bought these to try in my revs and the one I needed (lower inner damper) was perfect (I didnt need them all so dont know if they’re all the right fit): ebay

Just to state the obvious – I dont know about your exact model!

When you’re there you should get yourself a Torx T30 😉

The bottom of page 90 of this thread has a good idea that I based my fix on:
http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=12660192

I got the £3 bracket from here: http://tinyurl.com/33o2y7p

I used part of the top price too though as it allows the light head to rotate to cater for bar sweep. Hacksaw required.

Edit: Too slow – Jamies link refers to the same fix.

Have you been decorating in the last few months? We had the “rare” Crown paint problem:
http://www.bbc.co.uk/blogs/watchdog/2010/05/crown_paints.html
We’d replaced the carpet, the bed, curtains before we heard about this.

Dust on a light fitting being burnt off?

We had a similar thing years ago- but it was the light fitting itself started to smell when it heated up. Drove us mad for ages.

Here’s some beam shots I took last year of a Magicshine, MTE P7 5 mode torch, P7 2mode. All on high. Note that there are differences between individual torches and lights and someone else may get different comparisons.

To answer the OP – if I was to get another one I’d go for SKU 44676 which I believe is a copy of spokeblokes £99 light (but different battery):
SpokesLight

Mieszko – I’ve just realised you’re local to me. If your’e stuck I’ve got a spare full set of seals. Feel free to email me to arrange a chin scratching diagnosis over a cuppa.

If it’s not the “gate” and when you remove the lowers, dry the shaft that goes to the lowers with some kitchen roll and repeated pump the shaft up and down (maybe a dozen times) does the shaft eventually become moist (no double entendre intended!). If so it’s probably the lower inner damper seal – I’ve been there a few times.

You should find answers to most of the above from some folk who have tried various combo’s here:

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=7254872

Edit: this may help:

As a bodge any chance that the bearing will fit the spindle without the plastic top hat ?

Shazam. Lol.

Not as dramatic but I posted my "burning" question earlier today on mtbr: http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=651648

To be fair this is my sixth dx light (well 4 torches for different folk and 2 different magicshines) and its my first smoke incident. I still think I'm quids in but will be a bit more careful from now on!

We live in an "nice" neighbourhood but recently someone made a sloppy attempt at forcing our up and over garage door. Didnt think too much about it until the next neighbourhood watch update came out and 3 garages nearby were broken into.

So I fitted some PIR lights, along with some of these:
http://tinyurl.com/32bzhud
and one of these:
Garage alam

But no matter what you do if they really want in they will succeed. I thinks its just a case of making your own spot less easy than those around you.

I had to file the SLX calipers slightly – but only on rotors fitted to XT front hubs. Dont know why but they seem to hold the rotor further left than my other hubs (Ive got Hope and Easton XC hubs with no problems). Never tried on a rear. Skimming was easy though and I dont worry about the results. It's only 1mm or so.

Edit – forgot to say 180mm front.

Spent a short while there and it wasnt as crazy as it sounds. Still be careful etc etc. The sheer flipping size of the place is the one truly outstanding memory.

Have you been to a developing world country before? If so it's better than a lot of places.

If you can't find it anywhere I've got a nearly full tub of summer fruits 4:1 that you can collect from the craigleith area. I wont be needing it any time soon. Email in profile.

Id second all the above. I've had 2 issues with stuff not as described (presumably innocently) but both were resolved in a very "civil/gentleman-like" way.

Yep I entered and kept quiet about it in case of jinkzing my high risk goal.

Last Friday I had a big off and broke bones in both arms whilst training/practicing. Was going okish up to that point. 75 miles off road for my long ride each week during the last month. Still it's a wimpish excuse I know. Bike bits fubar so thats my official excuse.

Next year though you better watch out! 😉

Oh – the very best of luck to everyone who has the balls to actually overcome the inevitable setbacks and still make the start line! I'd be there to clap you on. But it would be a quiet clap from the double slinger me 🙁

I got mp66w in 44 and mw80 also in 44. They are the same size near as I can tell. But as they're wearing out I've replaced them with a 45 so I can get a thicker sock in for the winter. Btw in normal shoes I'm an 8.5uk.

Hope that helps.

If youre stuck a friend runs an independent landy business(inc breaking) in Scotland but sells (and races) worldwide. email me if required.

Cheers Bruce! Happy vibes soaking in. OOh – thats probably the G&T!

Hi Kit & thanks guys. My first major "off". Those near 45deg jumps(that probably arent jumps?) near the end of the blue + not concentrating + no skills = ****! Land front wheel first by a mile. Gravel rash from eye to bollox!

Jeez I hurt! Doc recomened a hot bath. Took me 45 mins to get out! Had to fill it to the brim just to get moving.

Pentlands sound nice and safe now!

Anyways – big thanks to all that chipped in. Ronan

Alex – I'd say nearer 2 if youre not in a group. Im not that fit (the red xc was my "training" for the CRC Selkirk Marathon which I finished in 6:30 which was at the wrong end of the middle of the 85k field) and the climb to Minch Moor takes me 60 mins +/- 4. The "down" which includes a moderate chunk of fireroad climbing takes around 35 – 40 mins. I did 3 laps in 5 hours including refilling with water etc in the car park.

If I wasnt a lard arse – I could…. well there's no point in speculating:)

Cant help directly but does garmin connect (web based) work on a mac?

Even on windows I occasionally get errors with training centre.

I was looking forward to this – but work gets in the way again 🙁

If you're still struggling send me the hi-res version. Cost you the flapjack though!

Here's what 30 secs did:

http://www.piccomp.co.uk/temp/stwkidsbikesleg

Next you'll want the stabilisers removed, the gatepost growing from his head …. 🙂 Nice pic btw!