I did this 4 years back and every year since. Cant make it this year and I’m really disappointed 🙂 That there in itself should be enough of a review!

There is a lot of climbing – not as in rolling ups and downs – but bigish up then bigish down. It changed the year before last to have the biggest climb at the start so that the first downhill singletrack was less of a bottleneck. For folk like me (mid fielders) it still is a bit of a bottleneck to be fair. However 4 hours later you can have the course to yourself!

“Whats the course like” – A real mix of borders riding. Some of upland way, some off piste, some Innerleithen XC, some fireroad, lots of singletrack, some technical climbs, some guaranteed mud chutes, great views, very little of the climbs are wasted on boring descents, …..

Two things to note – the 100 (or recently the 85) isnt really the published distance. Secondly there are “unofficial cutoffs” – the feed stations will redirect you to the shorter course if you havent got to 1/2, 2/3 way round within a reasonable pace.

Overall – it’s a great event. Friendly, well organised. You can usually enter on the day.

Genuine lol!

/showing-my-age/ Gosh the original seems to innocent nowadays /showing-my-age/

I honestly believe than I’m immune to that sublimanal advertising. But for a recent birthday my wife asked me out of the blue what make of watch I’d like.

“Ohhh, I dunno, Tissot. But a pair of socks is just as good”.

Thought about it afterwards –

And moto GP
http://www.gpnow.com/motogp/1561/tissot-remains-official-motogp-timekeeper/

I’m a sucker after all!

I’ll help if I can (email in profile).

You may know this already but my memory of statistics from uni is that once you start to be selective about your sample your results are already skewed? Probably no worse than asking for volunteers but be prepared to justify your approach – possibly.

Absolutely no personal experiece of this – but this must be one the longest running threads ever on BR and its on this very subject (I guess you’ll have seen it already).

http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=12751016&highlight=chinese+carbon

Assure me please

Mmmme. Who talked you into that? Where – bathroom?

You have lots of teenie kids / multiple wives?

Dunno if this helps – but I got a pcs 10 from an older bloke 2nd hand. It will be around a lot longer then I am – whatever about him.

The big big thing (after coming from a cheapo no brand one) was a proper QR ( for clamping the seat-tube etc).

Downside is its steel (I think) so I dont leave it outside -rust.

Winstanley regularly have them under £90.

Well I’ve had one for 4 months. I love it. Actually loved it. You will probably be aware of the 2009 manufacturing problems but I took a gamble on an 09 – brand new old stock from an LBS (4 months ago for me) for less than half price (880 with rp2/reba etc).

I say gamble ’cause 09s are notorious for cracking / splitting and the warranty backup wasnt great – and downright atrocious if you bought from Merlin. 2010 onwards are fine by all accounts. There were 2 problems with 09 models- the asymetric swingarm (led to cracks on the DS) and the top tube / downtube weld.

When it cracked my lbs werent exactly surprised.They saw it all before. To be fair the warranty backup now is reasonable – if a bit slow. I’m currently waiting for a warranty ’12 model. No quibbles / hassle. Just not available for a few weeks.

Overall – its a great trail design. 3.3 kg frame weight (inc shock). Sizing is a tad on the large side of normal. Pedalling is like a hardtail – but it tracks bumps / steps etc perfectly. I’m far too much of a wimp to push it to the limits on the downs. Overall – to be honest I dont have a whole lot to compare it to = but I am seriously missing it at mo.

It is a genuinly great climber. And great for long days out. As I said I dont have a whole lot of FS stuff to compare to but after 5-6 hours on a super my ass (old!) is an awful lot happier!

The 09’s came with a 100 Reba, the 10/11 with a 120. Same frame geom (different factory). I’d my 09 with 120 and it was fine.

Just to re-iterate: the 2010/11 are (apparently) fine reliability wise. I personally would not buy one with an asymettric (on 09 and some ’10 models) swing arm unless from an lbs you trust.

First time I did a 100k off road took me 8:30. I was almost last (just inside the cut offs). Next time 7:00 (2/3 way down of finishers). Last year 6:30 (almost exactly at the half way point of finishers). This year: who knows. I looked at the time of the winner the first time (4:00 I think) and almost took up golf!

This was all at the Selkirk 100 (formerly Merida, now CRC). Bear in mind – its not usually 100km, but it is bloody steep.

I’ve got both. They are almost! exactly the same. When I whack them on a rock they break at exactly the same rate. (Dont put expensive pedals on a Commie Super 4!).

If you dont whack pedals – the 540s are much more long lived – and easier to service (you dont need a special tool) – my 520s all “leak” grease and collect junk at the axle. In reality – I’ve ended up with a left 520 and a right 540 – they work the same. Except 520s bearings die sooner (but are far chaper). The 540 will laster longer.

Unless it whack them on a rock.

Ooh! A whyte frenzy 😉

Here’s mine. A 19. If I had to have just one bike – this is it (or later years).

Simon – that Ice toolz one is the exact one I have! And hate it. Mine slips off the splines easily when even when the BB is remotely stubborn.

We’re all different eh!

As for stripping the plastic cap bit – you know that the torque for that is recommended at something like 4in”f. ie barely finger tight?

When I got my first bibs – I was in heaven!

Then I saw myself in the mirror. Then the missus saw me. God that was BAD!

Anyway – I’d echo the recommendations above. My first ever “expensive” bibs were DHB Knowles (£80 I think- no longer made). Then some Giordana (Gel+ I think). Recently I got some Castelli Aero as a present (wrong size, but from Ribble so changed them no probs). Uber comfort. And I need it given my tubby ass!

As for cream – I got some but wouldnt no longer consider using it unless I got chaffing or sores. Which I dont – even after 8 or 10 hour rides. It will in no way help with sore sit bones / achey feeling.

Against all that is common in STW – here is some useful advice (maybe).

There are 3 types of tools:
1: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=42809
2: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/bbb-btl-27-bracketgrip-bottom-bracket-tool/
3: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=42808

Their usefulness goes ime (somewhat limited experience to be fair) from type number one downwards especially if the BB is stubborn.

#Edit – I got types 2 and 3 in the tools box and got so f’ing fed up with them that I got a type 1. Not that particular one mind – it’s a brand X I think, but full “circle”, includes lever.

Junkyard- I doudbt if we’re at cross purposes here, maybe.

As a youngster I was a useless fecker. Now – when I see a cv I try to be open. But I try and add a specific interest / challenge for the job in question. All my work involves communication – Eng;lisj. ish. I cant and wont employ someone that speaks “approximiatish-english-ish”; my clients will laugh at me!

You may well be right Junkyard. Under my “rules” – the application / covering letter needs to be hand writtten. The cv is fine from a computer. It’s a crap job tbh. General dogsbody in a fashionable line of work-ish!
And yes – I get the obvious parents replies. When they’re in my office – they get to fill in some of my usual forms, and god – it can and does go tits up.

#Edit- Dont get me wrong. I see lots of kids with way more potential than any job I can give them. I also see lots of “mini adults” with an attidude about learning anything new (and even spelling) that is worrying.

Thats my point – I guess.

The only thing I can add – is that I get one – two hundred cvs a year from youngsters looking for work.

Sometimes I do take them on for the summer. The challenge I set them is a hand written letter of application (along with a cv).

That there alone eliminates 80%+ of applicants, the others fail on even more obviuos stuff.

I was there (young) once though!

You’ll pick up my spelling / grammer mistakes above!

Butt – dude . This post was entertaining til that commet. That’s just downright stupid.

seriously – both sides of this need to get a room. Get off here now. The phone was invented ages ago. Get it sorted.

Speaking in Inners – I got 3 1/2 rounds of the xc in after work. Dont ask about the half – bloody glasses!

Anyways – everything was dusty as Planet Mars. What a great evening out!

h4hyorkshirecyclechallenge

Youve had about 4 posts relating to this link. Are you spamming us?

As for pedal / cleat position – and mtbing for just a few years- I prefer the ball of my foot slightly forward of common recommendation. Dunno if that helps.

Hi Ben,

Welcome to the forum.

Sorry I cant help with your query but dont take the nitpickers too seriously. Somebody gets the piss taken out of them every day on here. The good news is that usually – shortly after that phase someone will be along with a really useful answer. It’s part of the ‘banter’. If you want to minimise the nitpicking in future then a spell checker is useful.

btw – I haven’t spell checked any of that so tear away!

http://www.ology.com/technology/google-plus-locks-down-against-insane-demand

#Edit – hopefully the link’s url says it all.

Is it something I said?

Maybe you got smelly feet 🙂

I dont have a recommendation but if the mt91 stock thing is the problem then try the germans – they seem to have stock- eg:

http://www.bike-discount.de/shop/a24977/sh-mt91-mtb-touring-schuhe-dunkelbraun.html

🙂

Reminds me of my nan!

Bubbles around the piston possibly / probably means the seals have gone. It’s happened me – twice now.

Have you been using them in the cold?

If they are under warranty then I’d push to get them replaced. Otherwise you can get a replacement caliper for £25ish from crc. Apparently any Deore+ caliper will work too. Changing / bleeding is dead easy. You will loose about 1/2 inch of cable tho.

I get about 12 months from an xt BB and changed to Enduro. It lasted 3 months in the same conditions. Back to xt for me.

Usually the bearing seals have the metal side nearest the bearings and the rubber side out. Thats what I did anyway.

I’ve not used motionX but that does look interesting. Does it use OS maps?

I do have the cheap (£12?) iphone only – Ordance Survey multimap app & licence and think its really good.

I only use it for map reading – preloaded maps (download extra “tiles in an emergency).

I’m not sure how much else it does. The screen is small though so in some ways not as good as a paper map.

I got a 2.2 and it JUST fits under the arch of my rebas. This will probably vary with model years and rims etc but there is no way a 2.4 would fit mine without rubbing.

Holy thread resurrection!

I’ve had a look at those links Ryanairfees and it seems you charge 3% for using your card in GBP. Maybe not as cheap as you imply.

This mightnt not help at all, but I’ve got a Vaude 18 thats taken a massive battering and crashes for 3+ years and still totally waterproof, looks good and does the biz. When it dies – I’ll get another.

The only downside with mine is the “one pocket does everything” feature-I’d like some internal pockets.

It’d all bollox. No danger at all. The sign is there to stop folk hooking up their own ‘leccy for free.

Just go for it. These signs are noticibly less common nowadays. The money grabbbers realise this and route the juice through less acessible channels.

## For the dim witted – the internet is full of really bad advice!.

I feel your pain.

Actually I’ve no idea what you’re on about – I’m only guessing!

We need more info / pics!

I posted this elsewhere in answer to a similar / same question. Particularily relevant if she used them in the cold – ime.

Sorry for being lazy:

It could be something else (but leaking caliper seals is a common problem ime with recent Shimano calipers).

To check – take the wheel out , pads out and jam somthing plastic between the pistons (a tyre lever works well). Then pull the lever till you get a real firm clamp. You will probably see fluid / bubbles from around one of the pistons.

Also check for any signs of oil on or near the calipers / mounts etc. Even a tiny amount is the start of real trouble.

How old are they – under warranty (12 months)?

I think for mine its something to do with using them in extreme cold – my winter bike suffers way worse.

If the piston seal is your problem (it could be something else!):

I’ve tried finding the seals on their own (the bit that seems to cause the leak) but cant be got. The good news is that you can buy a new SLX caliper for £25 from CRC which works fine (even with servowave levers).

Also a Deore caliper will work too a save a few bob. Installing and bleeding is easy, but you will loose about 1/2 inch of the hose (’cause you cant reuse the insert/olive)

Looks like a grand day out!

As a video I’d say its a tad long, and I’m sure your mate doesnt dab / stop all the time! Maybe more footage of the “failure price” (cliffs etc). And some more speedy bits.

Hope thats not too critical!

I’ve only been to Sardinia once – I wish I’d brough my bike! We were walking and still got scared a few times!

#Edit – forgot to say a lower camera position / angle might make things look faster & steeper.

I’m crap at hitting the ground at speed. Despite plenty of practice it still hurts.

On the plus side – I’m learning how to avoid this, and possibly more importantly, willing to learn all the time.

Junkyard – Member
its what i said the 203 will be front size and 185 the front size.
put it on the front see what happens

POSTED 27 SECONDS AGO #

Just confuse the lad why dont ya! 😉

He means a 203 front adapter becones a 185 when fitted to the rear.

I use the middleburn doofers. Usually fit a few inches upwind of bare cables. I buy cheapo teflon coated ebay inners. A blast of GTxx every month or so and alls dandy in my cable world. Despite mud, winters and a serious love of snow riding.

I’ve never had one single cable sticking / stiction issue. That might be coincidence but I’ll happily buy them again.

DougD – I’m sure you’d be most welcome. I think Grant is nearish to you (details above) and if that doesnt work out then I can head out via Marchmont.

I’ll see you guys there then – I’ll be in a blue Primera.

If anyone wants a lift from North Edinburgh – my email is in my profile.

I got Pro III SP XC (4.2d 24 spoke) and despite a lot of clumsy thrashing and dings in the rear (needing one new rim – another one due shortly) they’ve never tacoed or even gone out of true.

Seized bearings, broken pawl springs – thats another matter.

I’d echo the comment about the rims only being available via a Hope dealer.