TJ – thanks but we’re covered. It’s a long story but its getting two front wheels.

Luckily I got 2 nearly matching new front wheels that take disk and v’s.

#Edit – wilburracing – forgot to say Mick cant logon til tomorrow.

Thanks Cruzheckler – that explains it.

The fox seal was exactly the same as a new one from a service kit so it looks like my Joplin 4 is a bit different to others – maybe model year or something.

Appreciate the help!

More progress:

OK – I’ve tried it again and same result. Took some photos this time. Any ideas welcome.

Original seal installed & no play:

Rp23 seal (on the left) vs the original seal:

I also tried it with (and without) one of the other rp23 seals underneath the one with the lips to make it taller: like this:

Reassembled like this:

Results look like this:

It still rocks forward and back. Anything obviously different to you guys?

Can anyone recommend a good Presta head for a compressor ?

I didnt even know such a thing existed! I just use one of those presta-schrader 99p adapter brass things along with a standard schrader head. Only downside is that the damn thing is small so tends to get lost.

the cynic-al seal of approval

You should have a logo for this seal: like the British Standards kite mark for bicycle diying? 😉

if there are other bits you need,

I think we’re good. We got all the main parts in hand (forks, wheels) before finalising the plan.

any links to one that looks best bet for circa £100?

This looks reasonable:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/michelin-mb24-24ltr-230v-compressor-5-piece-accessory-kit/24375

is it best to avoid the ‘in-line oil’ ones

My inline oiler fits onto the air line-not in the compressor itself. Only used with wrenches – ie I take it off for spraying / inflating.

deviant – I think Northwind means that the car compressors are fine but dont have the initial massive blast of air to get a tubeless tyre to seat on the rim. The do of course pump up tyres – buy maybe not fast enough to get them to seat.

Yep – really handy if you like fixing stuff. You can get air tools like sanders, polishers, wrenches, chisels….. These seem to last for ever as there is no motor in them.

If its just for tyres – a basic compressor is fine. Basic is also fine for impact wrenches, spraying – BUT the small tank will mean the motor cuts in a lot more often and do your head in.

They are NOISY! The use a LOT of current. On startup mine draws close to the 12A breaker in my garage so I have to make sure not to have much other stuff running at the same time. You should change the oil in them from time to time (like an engine). If using tools an in-line oiler is a good idea (saves you having to remember to oil the wrenches etc).

Got my latest one from Machine Mart in a sale. It’s fine. The also did (do?) a bundle of common tools that’s good value (tyre inflator, wrench, basic sprayer…). Remember to get a presta – schrader adapter if you’ve got prestas.

Do people have a preferred/recommended website for laser toner refills by any chance?

I’ve always got samsung toner from ebay. Never had a problem.

Search for model name: eg “samsung ml 1640 toner”. Some models need a “reset chip”. Check if yours does – most sellers include this.

Will do – probably Monday. I suspect I’m doing something daft.

Yes – its outside is flush against the collar, right up to the top of the collar and the “flangey”/lips bit is sticking out above the collar – maybe 3mm.

Interesting. Is this one TOO cheap though?? Samsung mono laser for £49.99.

£50 is about right. As mentioned it comes with a half full toner (maybe 1000 pages worth). You can buy a bottle of toner for about £10 and top up yourself that’ll do a few thousand pages.

Eventually – after maybe 3 refills ime – you’ll have to buy a proper replacement toner cartridge. Crazily it can be cheaper to just buy a new printer and start again!

Yep – everything was done up tight. On mine the original seal under the collar is really thick and seems to offer some support to the shaft. The fox one is much thinner. Could I be missing something else really obvious?

I can heartily recommend cheap Samsung mono lasers. Easily refillable toner. Cheap as chips in the long run. Unbelieveably quick prints.

I’ve also got a colour HP which costs a fortune to fill.

Oooh : Katana = teenage fantasy for me!

What tags does that get us?

Waderider – thank **** you dont do my companies pc support. You’d be fired.

Elfin – you’re wrong on this one. We (you, me included) scare newcomers. See, we’re arguing right now and no newcomers will intercede. I will just have to kill you. Well you ride about 500 miles from where I do but still, my katana is poised and waiting. Or something.

Sadly, we posters scare the bejeebuz out of everyone else.

Tags are anonymous. Part of STW. Or something.

Strangely, having met lots of the regular vociferous regulars, in real life a random growl shuts just about everyone up!

I doubt you’ll get too many on here who are juicy fans. Sorry etc. I ran them for a while but at the time getting spares was just impossible (even simple stuff like olives) so switched over to shimano. It was less hassle in the long run.

bikewhisperer speaks the truth. The rims are fine. You need to fit the tyres so they dont look out of true. Start with really low pressures. Move / force the tyres to sit properly. Then inflate fully. Sounds easy – it isnt always!

Good vs budget?????

We (family have 3!?).

A park pcs10 thats going to last longer then me. And would probably hold a light motorbike steady.

A biketool something that came from merlin that’s ok but just ok.

An aldi/lidl that’s sold under lots of brand names. It would hold a bike up if its life depended on it. You have to to drill holes / moidify it beyond what’s designed for – holding bikes.

If it was me – and it’s not under warranty – inside that nice plastic box is a standard PC harddrive. With a “standard” (there are a few) connector. I’d take it apart, get the raw drive out (be a bit careful), buy the relevant connector from ebay (Maplin if you want to pay top dollar) plug it into another desktop PC … et viola. Usually..

Your PC should have “the other” connectors spare – ie DC supply (5v&12v).

Edit – basically the external harddrive will have a chat with anything connected to it. It doesnt care if it’s windows, linux etc etc. Physically connecting 12v,5,v and data cables is the key. If you’ve shagged the usb part that’s just another layer you can bypass.

Ex juicy owner here.

You can spend your spare time getting them perfect (or cash in an lbs). Or you may have better things to do.

Me – I sold them – got some SLX’s and XT’s on all my bikes and also the missus’es. 100 times more fit and forget. When they fail (and they do!) it’s usually a simple case of £25 for a new caliper. Or a bleed kit for £5 from ebay.

I’m not saying they are perfect. Just more trustworthy.

YMMV etc.

So it’s just me.
🙁

Just an update on this – I finally got round to putting the fox seal in (from an rp23), reassembled and noticed obvious play around the seal.

Rocking the upper tube forward and back meant I could ‘almost’ see past the seal into the lower tube – if that makes sense. The seal was fitted under the collar and protuded above it – just like the original.

Anyway I’ve put the original back in (now no play at all) but I’m wondering if I’ve missed something or maybe something else is worn out (those white plastic rings?). Any ideas?

Hers should include 3rd party only on cars not owned by her. However – many “fully comp” policies dont include this nowadays and it’s not clear on price comparison websites if it’s included.

So basically you’ll need to check her certificate. Also she would be 3rd party only.

Engine revs but car wont pick up. No faults in ecu though

As in engine running fine & revs but no acceleration when in “drive”? That wouldnt sound good.

#edit – beaten to it by coffeeking

Is it at a main dealer?

I dont know how you could confuse a MAF problem and a transmission problem?

What are the symptoms?

My primera needed a MAF – £35 new (aftermarket). It was easy to diagnose- the computer (OBD plug in thingy) said it was faulty.

What line of work? Graduate, qualified, experienced etc???

“Paging Leku. PAGING LEKU.”

Sorry I dont have a 575 – but know of a man that does.

He’ll be along in a minute with all the help you’ll ever need.

Huh?

I like. The front looks like a really really angry 916!

But – Italian & electics & innovation = I’ll wait at the back of the queue,thanks very much!

Strange one for me. My cousin – a year younger than me – died of heart disease at 38. Left us all shocked. A week later I was sitting in an Indian take away (you can probably guess the healthy life I had at the time and I knew I HAD to change).

And as luck would have it – which magazine was on the table in the takeaway that cought my eye: yes – FHM ;).

But after that was “What MTB” awards issue, which reminded me so much of my youth messing about on bikes off road. 4 days later I’d bought their top rated hardtail – at an OUTRAGEOUS price of £499 for a GT Avalanche. The bestest 499 I’ve ever spent! A couple of years later, numerous stones lighter, a lot poorer, skills not a lot better, but enjoying it ….

Does this help – re novatech?

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/superstar-switch-hub-advice-needed-please

whilst savouring the smell of the sewage station.

OK – I’d not noticed that but now you’ve sold it to me 😉

I did notice the carpark smells godawful some days – is that the same problem?

I’ll miss it too. And the choice. Oh how we’re spoilt!

In the cracking weather we’ve had recently its lovely to sit outside the Hub with a cuppa facing the setting sun rather than sit in an almost subterranean palace of tiles – even if they (who shall not be named) do a cracking venison burger!

Good idea about the relay – or perhaps have 2 sockets on always, 2 switched so you have to think about it when plugging something in. Mine are always on – so am always cautious.

What are you going to use for switched live for the relay? Stereo, lights…? How far is that to where you want the relay?

Me – I’d still use any existing loom rather than running cable through the bulkhead and into the engine bay.

Lastly for earth / negative – try and use an existing earth point nearby (possibly rear light cluster?) rather than drill. You dont need to run all the way back to the positive source (actually you shouldnt really do it I afaik).

God my head hurts after reading that! I’m going to turn violent any second now!

What kind of van? Reason I ask is that some (eg Transits and Connects, possibly more) have the wiring loom in place for a rear socket- but no actual socket unless it was paid extra for (also no fuse in the fuse box).

I bought the wire from ebay: here’s a guide to amps, cores sizes, lengths etc. http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/amps-wire-gauge-d_730.html