If you’re leaving the smoothie cup in then it’s easy, but – IIRC – destructive- ie due to limited access you have to whack the inner race from above to remove the bearing which will damage it internally.

So it’s easy to do DIY with a screwdriver so long as you never reinstall the old bearing.

There may be a neater way if you’ve a bearing puller etc.

Installing the new one obviously has clear access to the outer race from below (eg a large socket) so that’s fine.

I’d guesstimate that 90% it’s the bottom. I got through 2 bottoms before the top. But that might be just me.

On mine (1.5 fork) – I had an OnOne Smoothie mixer. So if you’re in the same boat and it’s just your bottom that’s failed (!) then “type 2” here fitted mine and lasted longer.

http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=439

14500 and 18650 are just mimimeter dimensions for the the cells- they use the same tech inside. 3.7V nominal, 4.2v fully charged kind of thing.

Afaik a 14500 is 14mm diameter, 500 long (nominally). 18650- is 18×650 etc.

But all these cells have the same tech inside.

14500 are a teensy bit bigger than AA. But mentally /exponentially longer capacity. 18650/14500 can use the same charger.

AA and all that is totally different tech- not even 20th century: so all that duracell AA/AAA/C/D cell stuff is oldie stuff.

If in doubt show us a photo.

#Edit – a couple of quick edits there from me- if in doubt: dont.

My missus has a 1 series on PCP. It replaced an A3.

She’s dead happy- PCP was way cheaper than a focus / golf / A1 and others.

But OP: why even consider PCP if you are going to keep it past the minimum period?

These wee £5 torches were recommended on here and are amazing for the size – IF – and thats a capital if – you have / can charge 14500 batteries(or 18650 batteries as they’re smaller but same charger usually).

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=181092276915&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:GB:3160

Also note they work on AA’s as an emergency but dont last near as long.

Fit in jean pockets. Get proper roasting hot if left on too long though! Dont ask how I found that out.

Back in the day when scanning slides was cutting edge I made a living from it.

For home use I had one of these.

If you want to borrow one let me know: its probably total overkill for snaps. You;ll need to learn the basics and will probably only work with XP (xp drivers available: not sure about later).

While this machine was the dog’s doofers for home users back in the day: it is SLOOOOOW by today’s standards.

http://www.steves-digicams.com/2001_reviews/canoscan4000.html#conclusion

With sweeney kincaid you need to get registered with them ahead of time. I’d recommend you go and view stuff, their photos and descriptions are fairly brief, its not a given than everything is working or complete or the that the details they give are correct, it identifies the lot, nothing more. But a bid is binding and theres no comeback once you win- sold is sold and buyer beware.

Theres a viewing day, usually the day before the auction. Useful for checking out some of the job lots- it might be worth bidding on a whole shelf of stuff if you’ve spotted something you want amongst it

Theres a closing time for bids (usually noon) and you bid ‘live’ so to speak, like an ebay auction anytime up to that deadline. The ’10 minute rule’ is the big difference, anyone who bids in the closing minutes of the auction extends the deadline for that item by another few minutes, if someone bids again, the deadline extends again. So like a live auction the bidding for that item ends only when nobody in the room is is prepared to bid any further, not because the clock has run out. Something hotly contested could run for hours after the 12 noon deadline. Its only items where people have bid as high as they’ll go already that close at noon on the dot.

So your strategy needs to be different to ebay – that least second snipe actual opens the auction again for everyone else and gives them another 10 mins to bid. However the bid incrtements also tend to be quite high, so low value items don’t run and run.

Don’t get giddy – factor for added vat and auction fees (and from now on stop moaning about how much eBay charges )

Theres usually only one day you can collect anything, so make sure you know what day that is and that you can get there then – you’ll get an invoice when the auction closes and you need to pay that (over the counter at the bank) before you go to collect.

Having been to a few auctions over the years I’m curious as to your obvious non-widespread knowledge on this one. In a genuinely nice way.

LOL @ steve73.

On mine, sks, the top (metal) mount is happy ith a single cable tie.

Damn keyboard!

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-VpLZUcvZyXs/Tleov6-iQzI/AAAAAAAAAUs/0M5i_LUAvTI/s640/_MG_0692.jpg

I dunno hy the link isnt orking, but anyay….

Rebas and guards are fine, just use smaller tyres and common sense and fudge the mounts.

ps the key knon as double u has died on our pcs for some reason.

As science officer says: it sounds like the scre head rather than stripped or threaded. hich is goodnes for you.

No maybe you can tellme hy my PC suddenly refuses to type the letter otherise knon as double u?

In the absence of helpful responses, I’ll start with the obvious: you just need a screw that’s the right thread. Longer doesnt matter.

More of interest though, is why the screw is “threaded” – I guess you mean stripped? If the derailleur body is alu and the screw steel, you may have a different issue.

There is lots of advice on the radio about this recently: basic advice – this is probably useless – but travel agents that are on the verge of going bust tend to sell deals that are too good to be true to try and stay above water.

Sadly – usually – you’ll never get on a plane to get any benefit from the abta / atol stuff. Worst case is you’ll be stuck at Gatwick / Preswick etc. You’ll just not get to go anywhere and have a beef with your credit card company til they settle up (if you’re lucky and used your credit card). By the time you get the money back the kids holidays are over and its all pointless.

Anyway, if its too good to be true, well, you know.

:)
Great present idea!

There are a few options around Inners / GT, usual rec’s are Andy at Dirtschool and a different Andy at Ridelines. Both are really good. Give them a call for a chat – they’re both bike mad.

Nothwind off here has got / or paid for courses from both afaik, both come recommended for different styles.

Ouch!

Eyes peeled here. Do you have any photos?

Top job rockthreegozy: I’m not sure Chathams exist anymore but that website lists some more bosch options for the Lothians.

Does it have a DMF?

Dang – they’re a one shop setup.

Well there is some good news: I’ve had a look on the Bosch site and if I break down the due to a flat bosch battery the RAC will recover me.

The bad news is the bosch dealers in Edinburgh are all Factor type of places (Euro, Pentland…) rather than actual garages. And I cant see them giving me a free battery without at least a mechanic giving it a once over.

Yerp – I’ve the receipt in the glove box. Auto factors in the SE. But they aint answering the phone til Monday.

Refurb’d i3 laptop, cleaned of donkey exotica, £280, incl W8:

http://www.pcworld.co.uk/gbuk/laptops-netbooks/laptops/refurbished-laptops/compaq-cq58-278sa-refurbished-15-6-laptop-21302139-pdt.html

Or much better (if you’ve monitors etc):

Dell i3 outlet- as one example (you’ll need to check each day, the daily update stock update time varies):
http://outlet.euro.dell.com/Online/SecondaryInventorySearch.aspx?c=uk&l=en&s=dfh&cs=ukdfh1&puid=f556541b

I’d agree Molgrips.

And tpbikers mate in the pub isnt too far off the mark.

molgrips is tpbikes mate from down the pub! ;)

The cheapest barebones i3 system from dabs, with 0 ram, 0 hd, 0 graphics, 0 windows is £226.

I’d be genuinely impressed if you can get the minimum spec above for £150.

Anything is possible: but it may cost more than you think.

Anyway:
Will your motherboard take an I5?

Will its form factor fit your case? Or do you need to buy one.

CPU fan for i5?

Windows?

Will the motherboard support you HD’s (sata etc)?

Edit – Oh – and your monitors / tv – hdmi/ vga etc.

Maybe a bit over budget, but I got one of these as a gift and went over about 4 weeks. It was interesting and good fun. They were held in the Whisky Society on Queen St.

http://www.rosemurraybrown.com/

Im sure mine came with 2 spare in the box? Or did yours come on a bike?

Anyway my LBS would be the first port of call for spares (Madison account).

I feel sorry for the folks standing up for the police in this.

Corruptable police is a legacy that lasts a long time.

Those Krups grinders are sold under lots of brands (starbucks, dualit… ).

You can modify most of them to do good espresso grinds. As standard they’re a bit crap. But obviously if you modify it there’s no warranty.

Anyway ours lasted 3 years (modified). We replaced it with am Iberital from happy donkey – works great out of the box.

Details of the krupps mod here:

http://www.ineedcoffee.com/07/hack-starbucks-grinder/

What calipers and what pads? I know superstar pads in my slx’s knock / clunk when doing the headset test.

Some brake pads create this sensation: they seem to move to and fro in the calipers when the lever is squeezed. You sure its not this? You can ususally see them move though if looking very closely.

I’m interested in one of these too for a 10 yo.

I’ve bought decathlon bikes before (I even ride a triban 3) but so far they’ve always been about the £300 mark.

I’d be relatively happy that the 5.1 is good vfm and not too heavy but any real experience or alternatives appreciated.

My missus has 4 winters for her 1 series (still not fitted this year!).

Q: are / will you be on run flats?

Welcome to the forum streaky.

Details and photos here:

http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/review-dissection-magicshine-battery-mj-828-a-713595.html

You can replace them if you know what you’re doing. But the cells are a bastard to solder. It’s easier just buy a new battery.

Jesus, that’s some embarrassing bullshit up there.

I cycle this path at least weekly and also past there most days.

It’s a rough “off road” short cut to the back of Tescos. About 100m long. About as far from Strava and dog lovers as you’ll find.

Lightman: it’s in the middle of here:

http://goo.gl/maps/4fDQC

I got one a month or so back but never used it with the original battery til today. It lasted 40 mins from fully charged to dead.

“Interestingly” after I recharged it tonight with the supplied charger it got to 8.4v (@11 watts for 120 mins) but after unplugging it and 20 mins sitting doing nothing it had sunk to 8.0. I then plugged it in to a smart charger and it refuses to go past 8.0 volts. So I suspect the battery’s got at least one dodgy cell in there. Or more.

The good news was that after it died on the trail – it shows 0.0v until it was reconnected to a charger. So at least there is some form of discharge protection in there.

I’m going to try and get a refund from the seller (uk).

YES
T608PRJ

IS showing as insured on the Motor Insurance Database today.
The details on the MID are:

Vehicle Make/Model: FORD FIESTA FINESSE

Pretty easy to trace that if you could be bothered.

Old, cheap technique to draw away attention from the corners of a photo or film, due to poor lenses or techniques. Subsequently employed
for the opposite / possitive effect.

As an S3 owner I’m kind of impressed with that as an option /possibility.

Apart from the vignette.

But honestly. £50?

For a vignette – albeit stable?

Wow Mick – good to see you up to your fantastic good deeds as usual!

If there’s anything left to do that I can help with then just let me know. Or any bits / parts etc (email in profile).

Ron