As hainman alluded to it could be the damper.
Changing the oil in that should be ok I did my slant fork and don’t remember any dramas.
MTBR RL2 thread has pictures and all the technical detail you need.

Surprisingly dry! Not even any puddles at the usual places on dog and monkey.

The bearings and sealing aren’t great not aweful but not great.
When new they are really nice as expected but after some wet rides and washing with a hosepipe the bearings can suffer. If you do go for a NP hub take off the end caps and smear grease preferably waterproof grease over the outside of the bearings and if you can press the bearings out and do the inner sides as well.
They are quite nice hubs similar to hope in design but are let down by cheaper bearings although high quality aftermarket bearings are readily available.

I haven’t seen a MIPS version so I cannot be completely sure but I will say Yes the standard version does have two very solid and painful pads that skewered my head and were pulled out after the first ride.

Stem caps look great Brant I haven’t put mine on yet first job for the morning.
We managed to get out of the field with a push from the parking marshalls and there were two tractors ready to start towing when we left.
I really hope the road parking doesn,t kill off a great event.

I hope this works

If the link has worked it’s set up with as much info as you have provided.
The top box is what you currently run. With that in mind you can gauge how a new set up might feel. Play around with the settings like sliding the sprockets or entering different wheel sizes it’s a great tool. if the link has worked the link should always go to these settings so a kind of reset button until you get the hang of it.

Looking at it a 34 will give an even extension both top and bottom, a 36 will still give a slightly lower bottom gear but as good as another gear on the top end.

This one?

I use those cranks 1*10 on my hardtail and 1*11 xt on full sus both with superstar NW rings.
No butchery required except maybe cutting chainring bolts shorter if you want to lose the bashring and don’t want to buy some shorter bolts.
They are essentially a triple with the bash using the big ring position.

Mike superstar are currently manufacturing their own chain rings, expander sprockets, bash gaurds and pedals in the UK. I’m sure they are looking to make more stuff here in the future.

This thread may help if you want to try it yourself.

I’ve had a coleman cobra 2rs for the past 15 years and has done extremely well. A good quality medium to low budget tent. Maybe a little cramped for two people but honestly with that weight requirement you will struggle without paying mega bucks.

http://www.coleman.eu/UK/p-26293-aravis-2.aspx

The aravis looks like the modern equivalent.

“Maybe” just hit me like sledge hammer probably because I was scrolling down and just didn’t see her coming.

My old Dave Yates still has some Mint stickers on it from the early nineties and I print off Mint pictures for my riding buddies birthday cards as we’ve both been riding together since the eighties and mint is a part of those youthful misadventurous days.

Thank you Jo for making Mint part of me.

PS please do sort out some posters.

I’ve just got hold of a vango compact stove similar to the other screw on burners suggested and it used 10g of gas to boil 500ml of water so the smallest 100g cartridge should easily last a weekend.

As Bullroar wrote go into the phone display settings and uncheck auto rotate screen.

Old thread I know but still relevant to some.

My reverb sagged 2-5mm so I tried the first method RicB suggested and it seems to have worked well giving a solid post and full actuation.

When I released the plug and poppet valve on top it did pop out into the rag I had covering the top of the post releasing a lot foamed up oil. I’m not sure if the foam was caused by air in the main post oil or the release of pressure foamed up the remote circuit oil.

After the bubbles had settled out I could see clearly where the tube steps in between the valve and and main oil chamber. I dripped in fluid with remote bleed syringe up to the step then tilted the post side to side which released a few more bubbles from the main oil chamber. I repeated that until I was satisfied no more air would come out.

At this stage I was worried that the valve may displace oil into the gap around the valve as mentioned earlier in the thread. As it happens oil did come up around the valve as I positioned it but once I had the circlip back in, air spring pressurised and remote bled it worked fine with no more sag and a smoother quicker action.

Thanks RicB and the other contributors for this as it was an easy and cheap fix.

If it all goes wrong I’ll report back but for now my reverb works great again.

2013 Slant with Hope E4 caliper, 203mm Hope floating rotor on a 20mm Nukeproof hub (endcaps on the hub for the 15mm axle). It has minimal clearance barely 1mm but hasn’t caused any problems for the last month I’ve been running that setup.
I have heard that Hope hubs have the rotor mounts set slightly further inboard to help clearance for the floating rotor.

back to kerbs.
Try getting her to wheelie off a kerb with emphasis on going off flat to land with both wheels at the same time not mega high wheelies kids with carrier bags on their seats do.
Wheelieing isn’t the important bit at all but at the slow speed she’s comfortable with it’s the only way to stop the front dropping and should automatically make her push the front out and force the bike to stay level using her feet to push aswell.
wheelieing is harder but your up against her psychological fear so don’t tell her it’s harder untill after she can land both wheels flat and is comfortable going fast enough to not need to wheelie and can just push out.

don’t use it for a socket the cable may only be rated for 6 amps if it is part of the lighting circuit. Don’t be tempted to only use “less demanding devices” others may not know that and plug in something like a kettle that will overload the cables and start a fire.

It does create a folder with everything it removes on the desktop but I haven’t a clue how you would reimport the stuff you want to keep sorry.

Thanks to everyone except cranberry who was as useful as the proverbial chocolate tea pot.
Firefox came up with the suggestion itself, it was how to reset and remove the old profile but I couldn’t remember that it was a reset that I wanted to do (not everyone is or wants to be an IT engineer).

For anyone coming across this thread wanting to do the same go to help then trouble shooting information, in the top right will be a box to reset firefox.
Be aware it will remove add ons so you will have to reinstall the ones you use.

Well to limit some variables think about going up against Peaty now he’s still a top 10/20 WC rider and he will know how to handle the old sketchy bikes so put him on whatever he rode 20yrs ago and you on the v10 on one of the old courses.
I think Peaty would hand out some buttock pie on a silver platter.

My MTX29s hold their shape well with no buckles after 3yrs but I did put a slight ding in the rear after a trip to Cumbria and a lot of scratches from loose rocks but I’m by no means Gnar just lardy. They set up tubeless well with stans rim strip and chunky monkey tyres although a pair of rubber queens blew off destroying the beads but I think that was more a problem with the tyres than rims.
As said nukeproof rims are rebadged sun rims so the extra for NP is just the stickers.
If I were to buy again I’d go with mavic 321 521 etc, especially if I got chance to ride in the rocks of Scotland.

I went for a mince around Hopton, my phone rang with Ratboys rendition of God save the Queen (unknown number so ignored it) told my mate that’s to say Bryceland’s done it!
As soon as I got back I bought beer and studiously ignored STW and Pinkbike going straight to red bull tv for the replay.

What a great round really chuffed for Simmonds and Hill but Manon and Ratboy really topped off a great day and a brilliant season! Can’t wait for worlds and I have to go to BPW for the last BDS round.
I kinda like British downhills’ underground status at the moment as it’s really letting the best riders shine without the officious blithering and politics which can blight British sport.

It’s the main bulk of the liquid that they add the nicotine and flavours to.
PG is propylene glycol and VG is vegetable glycerine. There’s loads of stuff about the differences on the internet but it can be a bit like a what tyres thread.
I’ve never tried their liquid so can’t comment on their flavours.

300s are pretty rugged so I doubt you did any serious damage.
It’s an oldish engine so could just be using more oil as the rings and seals wear. My old 2.25 and current 200tdi blow smoke at start up and I’ve not come across an old landy that doesn’t.
I would just keep an eye on the oil level to gauge how much it’s using.
You could take off the intake pipe to the turbo and check there’s not a lot of oil in there as blown turbo seals could cause a runaway engine but that’s a worst case scenario.

Yes.
Rinse, rinse, rinse again. Don’t hesitate to go get it looked at though.

I once had brake fluid in squirted in my eye from looking into a car master cylinder as someone squished the pedal, rinsed my eye out thoroughly and was fine but don’t take chances with your eyes.

Your in luck my rad cage is 80mm bolt to bolt the long cage is 95.

They have a uk warehouse I ordered Monday afternoon and it was here by Wednesday morning.
Your mech needs to be a medium cage though. I had to wait another day to get a medium GS inner cage plate from petra cycles to convert my long cage slx.

A oneup RAD cage uses less b screw tension rotating the mech forward to a more normal angle. The main aim of the RAD cage was to get better chain wrap on the smaller sprockets for shimano mechs by rotating the mech as has been suggested.

I’ve just installed the cage and it brought the b screw back out about 3 to 4mm, not quite as far as it was with just the 36 sprocket but it has helped bring the mech back to a more normal angle.

There is a gigantic thread on mtbr about oneup vs woolftooth where a few people have the same problem and the consensus was filing a bit off the mech arm but they haven’t tried the new cage yet to see if it fixes the problem. I wouldn’t be keen on filing myself though.

I’ve just received an IO ring and I was pleasantly surprised by the quality. Not much to pick between a Hope retainer and an IO.
I was a bit worried by the pics of the tooth profile thinking the rounded tip like a traditional sprocket might mean it would wear and slip quicker but it turns out the tip makes the tooth taller and protrudes past the chain links.
I haven’t had chance to ride it yet so longevity is a worry at that price but I’m still impressed for it to be UK made at that price level.

Ah ok. You’ve seen the basic principal on the videos. The bottle with the nozzle lets the tubing fit onto the nozzle then to the caliper squeezing the bottle works like the syringe.
So you could search around to see if you have something similar like a dropper bottle that fits the tubing, it only needs about 30ml to fully fill the system.
Your best bet is to try a chemist they should be able to sell you a syringe or get the shimano small bottle then you can refill that from the large bottle in the future.

You need to push fluid up from the caliper.
Did you get the small bottle with a conical nozzle and a piece of tubing?

2.5mm is what the chassis is originally made from, I use 3mm as that’s what I have lurking in the shed. They rot from the inside out so the thickness may vary where the weld is laid and your mate may find he’s blowing holes as he hits a thin spot that he can’t see but that doesn’t look too bad and should be an easy repair. Disconnect the alternator as well or you’ll blow the rectifier diodes.

vaping can feel a bit weak after proper smoke but I found the cigar flavours were strong enough not to tempt me back.
There is a site called liberty flights that has a liquid called Winston after Churchill that most of my smoking friends said was very close to a normal tobacco flavour but is still different. It would be a good idea to get him a selection of the stronger flavours then he might be intrigued enough to try different liquids instead of just going straight back to the fags. Good luck.

Very cool.
The making of video is good it answers a few questions about it.

The making of lawn chair

sorry it’s not embedded.

Not as far as I’m aware. If you’re talking about the main bushes they are in the lower legs and slide over the outside of the stanchion whereas the damper works on the inside of the stanchion. The inside of the stanchion is shared with the rebound damper piston but that does not travel as high as the compression damper. Also RS did not change anything from 2006 to 2012 I can’t vouch for 2013 on but I doubt they did anything apart from change the stickers.

yes you can. I bought a MoCo damper separately and slotted it straight in.
the damper separately is quite expensive at about £70 and you have to buy the adjustment knob too for about £20 so your idea may work out well price wise so long as you can get close to original price on the 302.
Personally I didn’t find the damper to help much and used it more like a lock out with it fully open or fully closed only closing it when I felt I should use something I spent a lot of money on.
So you could just get the 302 and spend the rest getting the right spring weight (another mine field as RS weight chart may, may not be right) and see how you go. U turn is a great feature though and was more use than the MoCo.

Everybody did put their waist size in centimetres not inches didn’t they. 😉
Apart from Tom who may have used millimetres.

I don’t have a problem with crap riders having nice bikes. Maybe because I’m one of them but I know two people with nice bikes that have ridden them once or twice and now the bikes languish in their sheds. I did get a bit angry though when one of them walked his spesh pitch down the weirwolf drop at Cannock.

Same here no special tools adjusting travel on an RL2. I slackened off the foot nut about 5mm and tapped the socket on the foot nut to release it. I didn’t lockout the damper but I will next time thanks for that tip. The damper rod lined up with the lower for me so I just put the foot nut back on and tightened up. It was all quite painless.
On a side note does any one know if the SKF seals for a fox 34 will fit the slant?