avdave2 he couldn’t leave it if he tried

The use of electrical units like volts amps and watts is misleading. The author should have used thermal units similar to BTUs or heat flux but that can get complex this page calculates heating coils for vaping
The electrical units play a part along with the size of wire and its resistance to how much heat is produced.
I’m not surprised that burnt vape juice is carconegenic because so is burnt toast amongst a host of other burnt things.

SJS cycles
are very good for this sort of thing. Although it’s saying out of stock it might be an idea to give them a ring so they can sort you out when it becomes available.

RRP progaurd max for the front, Mudhugger for the rear.

Bar ends.

Yes I’ve used it on Landrover engines (that in itself should say something) and it does work quite well. It also works on the valve stem seals if the engine blows blue smoke when cold. Obviously it does depend on how bad the seals are but it’s worth a go being so cheap and easy compared to the job of seal replacement.

I’ve put Eagle GX 12spd 10-50t onto a friends 26″ Canyon nerve with no problems what so ever. Wheel size and chainstay length have no bearing on being able to fit  SRAM Eagle. The Eagle mechs are no longer than the old long cage 3x mechs. As you’ve guessed all you have to do is go up a chainring size or two from a 27.5″ wheel . If you turn on gear inches in the gear calculator that will help you fine tune which chainring size she would prefer and what end of the range she would be willing to compromise on.

Shouldn’t it be Agauche?

https://www.alpkit.com/products/kraku

https://www.alpkit.com/products/mytimug

http://www.lightmyfire.com/products/products/pack-up-cup.aspx

As with most things you don’t want to buy the cheapest as it will be poor quality and in this situation lethal if it fails. But you also don’t have to buy anything anywhere near the top end of the price scale. As these may well be tools for life you should consider the mid price range and look for jack and stand bundles.

I bought a 2t jack and stands from Halfords in 1996 for about £20 and I’m still using them now on a lwb Land Rover.

What you linked to does seem to be a good choice. In the UK I would look to spend around £50-£80 on a set.

Don’t get ramps first. Get a good 2ton trolley jack and axle stands.  The ramps will be useless if the next job requires the wheels off such as brakes suspension or steering.

Yup. Reread Plecostomus post.

I hope that means Matt Simmonds back to CRC. He’s too good a rider to be left on the shelf.

A big thank you to mikeyd for this idea and gravesendgrunt for finding a supplier.
It’s revived my ancient reverb. The old bush lost it’s ptfe coating and gouged the stantion so a new ptfe bush would be trashed on the first drop. The new plastic bush has been going a few weeks now no problems except for initial stiction which I’ve put down to the gouging from the old bush but it drops and returns well out on the trail.

I managed to tap the old bush out with a screw driver. I cut the plastic by running the point of a stanley knife around it until it cut through but it did make a small lip which needed sanding. I also cut a 1mm slot to get it to fit.

I rate this the same as helicoils as a repair that is better than the original so thanks again for the idea and info.

Instead of filing the caliper you could file down the threads of the bolt from the bolt head down to the depth of the caliper. Place bolt through caliper so caliper is against bolt head as it is wound in. That would mean no filing of expensive caliper only a cheap bolt. There should be enough float to align caliper and the bolt will be just as strong as you should only remove as much material as the thread any way.

Yes Nobeer done that before and it’s an amazing ride so I’ll do that instead and leave the bog on the tops alone this year.

I’m staying in a holiday cottage in Martindale at the moment and had a bit of your High Street route on my mind but going up via Angle Tarn and coming back down towards Askham fell but you’ve put me off a little 😐
I’ve done it from Pooley Bridge when it was warm and dry and yes it was spectacular but I’m not sure I’m up for trudging through bog in the mist. Shame really as I only get a week in the lakes once a year so I like to make the most my flabby unfit body can make of it.
BTW you might remember me and my cow bell from last years SSUK in the midlands heckling by the rooty roll down.

My 75 SIII 109 pulled the loaded skip lorry out of the quagmire the bikewash left at last weekends BDS.
It’s my transport to events, it’s my tent (full canvas hood) and more often than not I help ferry other marshalls, poles, crash mats etc around. If someone asked to swap it for a VW van I might be tempted just so I could sell it and get another couple of old Landies going.

I had trapped nerve in the Brachial Plexus the web of nerves in the shoulder and it sounds the same as what you’re experiencing. My GP tried to find the trigger point but didn’t find it and just ended up giving me Tamazipan which didn’t do any thing either. What worked in the end but not straight away was a yoga stretch from a Ryan Leach video which he called childs pose. Kneel on the floor sitting on your heels and lower your head to the floor resting on your elbows and let your spine relax. Then walk your fingers forward stretching your arms out as far as they can go.
The delightful Abi Carver does similar but calls it puppy poseher version of childs pose looks like a good start though. Obviously if it hurts to much stop

Intrepid.

Thanks jamj1974 £10 in charity box at the post office.
Sorry V8ninety but age before beauty they are going to help me get my SIII 109 back up and running. 😀
Of course I’ll adhere to the LR code and let you borrow them if your not a million miles away.

You have a pm

There is a British Downhill series[/url] round on the 30th at Moelfre in north Wales. I’m sure there will be some folk there that would like to talk to you and be interested in your book. Myself for one although I will be marshalling so unless you take a walk up the hill I doubt I would see you.
Hopefully there will be quite a few well known people there such as both current world champions, a few past champions and likely future champions as well as people deeply involved in the history of MTB in the UK.

I’ve run both on the back. The dual compound is rubbish as the side knobs tear and round off quickly giving some very sideways moments. The single compound is great though. The side knobs are still well defined and intact even now the the centre blocks are well worn.
Fantastic grip in most conditions except sloppy deep mud but what all round tyre is good in those conditions.
As for draggy maybe but I prioritise grip on descents over climbing speed. It’s on a par with trail kings and most certainly not as bad as a Magic Mary boat anker on the back.

The obivious answer is only you will know what is the lowest for you.
Not very helpful I know so to give you a rough point to start from use the lowest point from your 2x set up.
A couple of years ago I went to the Lakes with a 11-40 cassette while I was waiting on a 45t one up expander. As I didn’t have the expander in time for the trip I decided to try the 11-40 2x with a 22 granny. 22 40 was just way too low I was caught in a no mans land between wheelying, no traction and loss of balance due to the low speed but shifting to the 35t the equivalent of 22-36 on 2×10 worked well.
So from then on I have always gone with the 22-36 ratio as my benchmark lowest gear ratio when deciding how low my set up can be if I’m going to some extreme hills.
This was all on 26″ wheels and the low ratio I decided on was 16.2 gear inches.
I use this site to calculate what chainrings and cassette options will work best for where I’m going.

Your current chainset doesn’t give a massive range so you’re less likely to lose much range.
I set this up with your current gearset on the top and what I personally would swap it for on the bottom.
It is set for the new sunrace 11-50 11spd cassette which isn’t in the sprocket drop down menu yet but most of the other casstte options are listed so you can look at 10-42 or 11-46 etc.
Play around with it, slide the sprockets around to see changes and go back to the link if you changed a lot of stuff and want to reset it.

Rigid puts it more your favour 😀
3×7 on my rigid 😉

The capacity of the mech is 39t but your set up is 41t. You may well get away with it though. Make sure the chain is long enough to go onto the biggest chainring and biggest rear sprocket with the suspension compressed. If there is too much slack when on the smallest ring and rear sprocket then you’ll either have to not use that gear or get a longer cage but I think you could get away with it just.

Yes but you have to be careful of the range of the rear mech. I did it when XT 11spd first came out with an 11-40 cassette and medium cage rear mech that according to Shimano only left me a 10tooth difference on the front chainrings. I used a 22 granny and a 32 large chainring. Yes it was a bit pointless and soon came off.

I may have jumped the gun a bit there thinking of 1×11 only. If your thinking of doing a 2x set up using an old front mech and shifter instead of buying a new xt set up then yes no problem as long as the mech is rated for the size and difference in front chainrings.

Just a bit of info that may or may not help but 5.10 shoes with the original impact sole have a much bigger overlapping sole than say freeriders or impact vxi in the same size which may mean less area on the pedal platform and possible heel strikes on the chain/seatstays.
With bigger feet you might want to look at bigger pedals like vp harriers or deity T macs. I don’t have big feet but have a Charlie Chaplin stance so have trouble with clipping seatstays and my feet hanging over the edge of the pedals but the vp harriers have helped this and I’m a lot more comfortable now.

Don’t be flippant with the name if you call it something like diablo it will be a little devil etc.

Give it a name corresponding to the character you would like it to have.

I called my first Jack Russell Beth after Beddgelert and if your familiar with the story it’s a sad tale of a fearlessly protective dog that comes to an unjust end. Beth came to a very sad demise through my own negligence and stupidity, she was the best friend that I ever had and it breaks my heart still to think of her ten years on.

I now have a Jack called Daisy because when she came home she went into the garden and came back with a daisy in her mouth like Ermintrude from magic roundabout. Ermintrude is a bit of a mouthful so she became Daisy a good name for a ruminant but is quite lazy and very fond of her food but has great temprement with people and other dogs. Twendi is the swahili word for quickly and my cairn terrier of that name can quickly nip past undetected so much so I should of perhaps called her F117.

Anyway of the suggestions so far Red Five is awesome just be aware of the Jedi powers.

Also even though you’re not happy with whole dog thing she will be your dog and the rest of the family may be a wee bit jealous you have the best relationship with it 😉

I think Shimano do have an issue with their alumminium sprockets. Eighteen months ago I installed a 45t one up sprocket onto a new 11-40t XT cassette. From the start there was the slipping down when back pedaling issue from the 40t but not on the one up 45t even though chainline wise the 40t is moved one sprocket outboard. Now after over a year there is more visible wear on the 40t than on the steel sprockets and more importantly more wear than on the alumminium one up 45t sprocket and I make a concious effort to not be on the 40t for to long.
My next cassette is likely to be the Sunn race 11-46.

I had my impact vxi done by Feet First a different company from the other thread but I should imagine a similar service at the end of September.
I had the standard S1 resole instead of the Mi6 as Mi6 didn’t last long at all but the S1 on my Karvers has lasted a lot better.
The old sole was ground off and a sheet of S1 dotty rubber glued on so it isn’t a pre molded sole like the original as to be expected really.
So far it’s stood up to a week in the lakes, a trip round inners and a fair few rides in the local slop so I’m hoping I’ll get at least another year or two out of the shoes.
Quite pleased with the results as I like the shoes and was still a fair bit cheaper than a new pair.

I’ve had three out of four stans rim strips tear at the valve base. It did take between eighteen months and a two years before they went but they’re expensive so I,m not going to buy them again. Currently having good results from gorilla tape easier to fit and mount tyres and cheap enough that if does go pear shaped to retape.
If I was to go with a rim strip style again I,d go ghetto as that’s pretty much what stans rim strips are but a lot pricier.

greyspoke – Member

Serious question here, do equestrianists build jumps in woods? (I mean, not on their own land.) I have never seen any.

Around here they do but they are thick logs over the trail rather than earth ramps and they also like fallen trees. I used to think it was a stickman but the hoof holes gave it away. The local stickman uses lots of smaller sticks and has cottoned on to putting them at angles instead of straight across. The horsey stuff doesn’t bother me so much as it’s in plain sight, easy to go around, hop or bump over. Except for one log placed at the top of a little step down.

Pooley Bridge to High Street.
It’s quite gradual as far as lakes ascents go probably why the Romans built their road there.
One for the fat bike maybe as it can be boggy in parts I’ve been lucky and done it in the dry though and there’s nothing in the way of death gripping tech. Pushing is measured in tens of metres not hundreds.
Great veiws from the top as it’s almost as high as Helvellyn.
Once up there you have a choice of descents stay on High Street going south,go East for Nan Beild go West round the Knott to Hartsop or the cheeky Angle Tarn path or back the way you came.

Looks like you’re the guinea pig OP.
I’m interested to know how long and well your repair lasts as wrapping some tape round part of my multi tool or pump is more convinient than a proper patch kit. Of course there is the myriad of other uses duct can be used for so tyre repair is proper bonus.

I know on my slants there is a collar with a roll pin through it and the air piston shaft. I used a pin the same size as the roll pin and just tapped it through with a small hammer moved the collar to the next position and gently tapped the roll pin back in. be careful with the vice as the shaft is easily scratched use blocks of wood.
All that may be irrelevant if as you say there is a circlip not a collar held on with a pin.

I recently bought a pair of five ten camp four and got a good deal from nevisport.
I went for five ten as they have a broad fit like their riding shoes.
Hopefully they will last a lot better than the riding shoes as they won’t have flat pedal pins tearing into the sole or a constant jet wash from the front wheel but I can’t say for sure as they are only a week old.
The fit is good though as I won’t have to spend the first few weeks with blisters on my little toe while waiting for the toe box to spread.

A friend and I got laughed at for doing upper cliff at cannock with bell super chin bars on. Yes I could see why they were laughing at two wheezy old fat blokes on gnarpoons wearing full faces at a trail centre. My mate has porcelain front teeth from an OTB fifteen years ago and I had pain in a tooth for three years after slipping on ice. So we figure dental pain is worse than humilition, not by much though.

The bell super is a bit warm with or without the chin bar but no worse than my old 661 half shell. The chin bar is actually very easy to breathe through on climbs but you do get that “that’s better” feeling when taking it off after putting in some effort. It’s still miles better than a DH full face though.

The chin bar straps easily to both my back packs and is quite unobtrusive so is no problem just having it strapped on for somewhere like FOD where I can do a loop then go straight on to the DH.