Oooer! I've only got this bit. It is at work though!

Never leave home without any! Along with my headset press and bottom bracket facing tools. 😛

A 50mm section of road inner tube fits nicely over a 16g cartridge. Not highly insulating but takes the sting off and is cheap,light and not bulky.

Failing that use a ribbed condom!

Not cheap, but a good seatpost at a good price.

http://www.merlincycles.co.uk/mountain-bike-seatposts/ritchey-wcs-v2-carbon-seatpost.html

Agree with above comments.
Only happened to me once in about 5 years using Minis. Pads were nearly worn down and very muddy gritty conditions.

"Get your bikes out, get a yourself some decent winter kit & go put a smile on your faces instead of sitting in front of a laptop dissing those who actually enjoy riding their bikes all year round."

And what makes you think we don't ride our bikes all year round. Just because we don't take pictures of ourselves week in week out doesn't mean we are not out riding.

"don't see the point"

I think the point is they are being photographed.

TBH they seem to take so many photos I don't know how they have any time for a decent ride. 😯

"don't see the point 🙄 "

Seconded.

These Mavic R-Sys wheels are good value at Merlin at the moment;

http://www.merlincycles.co.uk/mountain-and-road-bike-wheels/mavic,-fulcrum-and-campagnolo-wheels/mavic-r-sys-wheels-2009-pair.html

So good I bought a pair earlier this year.
Sits back and waits for the Mavic hate mail to arrive.

No SRAM Notts/Derby league race this weekend so have foolishly entered the Midlands CX Campionships race on Sunday at Baggeridge Country Park, Dudley. Apparently 152 vets entered – is this a record perhaps?
So in for a sound thrashing in the wind, rain and mud – Yippee!

Good luck to all racing.

Jim – my bikes are quite light, between 18 to 23lbs, but I can't see weight being an issue if you get the balance point right.

I have one like this;

http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/ebwPNLqrymode.a4p?f%5FProductID=5379&f%5FSupersetQRY=C417&f%5FSortOrderID=1&f%5Fbct=c012372c012369

Seems to be a generic make sold under different names at various retailers. Mine is labelled Biketool by Union and is a few years old and still going strong.

What's all this 700mm wide 10 deg. sweep nonesense?

Real flat bars are well under 600mm wide with a 3 or 5 deg. sweep.

Come on guys if you're gonna do it, do it right. 🙂

I run 32C Kenda Small Block 8's in dry conditions and 31C Panaracer Crossblaster's when muddy.
I've also used Schwalbe CX Pro's and Conti Twister's on an mtb for crossing.

I've used Schwalbe CX Pro's and Conti Twister's on an mtb for crossing.
The Schwalbes are faster while the Contis have an aggressive tread better suited when really muddy.

"we are affiliated to the CTC instead"

Oh my god! Thats the equivalent of having a Betamax VCR. 🙂

Try here at British Cycling;

http://www.britishcycling.org.uk/web/site/BC/Bridge/club_finder.asp

Too slow as usual – as above

Wash down with hose,clean with hose brush,wipe down,lube chain and drivetrian with GT85 to dispel water,let dry,lube chain etc with Finish Line wet or dry,put away for next ride.
Boring and sad I know – but hey I just love clean bikes.

Round 9 of the SRAM Notts/Derby league at Sinfin Moor Park. Should be nice and muddy – Yippee!

Good luck to all racing.

Angle of dangle and length is important. Ooer missus!

Your right, rear mudguard not too close to tyre, angled upward say 15 deg, and long enough to intercept the spray that curls up off the back wheel and sticks to your arse.

Mavic Ksyrium Elite – light (ish) and strong

Steve, this lot just won't let go will they!
As you said near the start of this very dissapointing assault on your new steed you have been measured on a jig for this very bike. I wonder how many of the doubters have bothered to do this.

This is a race bike it is supposed to have a low front end. Plus the bike is not quite level on the photo which gives an impression the bars are lower than in reality. I think even if you flipped the stem and removed a couple of spacers it will still be fine – an aggresive race set up.

I think you should get away with it.
Crud Products started by Mr Crud, Pete Tomkins, father of Jamie Tomkins, both firmly steeped in the history of mountain biking.

Steve don't worry about all these negative comments. We are all a bunch of self opinionated tossers who know what's best for others.

Still think your new bike looks ace!

I use one finger, my index finger. Not to brake with, but as a sign to everybody who thinks one finger braking is cool.
Just use what feels right. 🙂

I would always leave it on. Ok to wipe off the outside but don't clean it initially with a solvent as it will wash the grease out of the pins and bushings. The most important area for lube is around the pins and bushing as this is where the wear takes place – any on the outside is really surplus to requirements and just attracts dirt.

Squirt GT85 or hairspray between the bar and grip. An old knitting needle can be carefully used to open up a gap to get it all started.

xcstu – Liking your stumpy. Good to see some flat bars and ends – raceee!

An ancient Elite magnetic thingy. Just been on it and those dammed magnets don't seem to be losing any power! 😐

" the pointing down of the saddle is a fail "

That's a bit harsh ourman, I think it's within acceptable limits. After all we are not all the same size or shape. Ooer missus! 😯

Good effort though – cranks level, on big ring and valves at 6.30!

Looks good, enjoy. Nice to see the Raleigh logo on decent bikes again

"I had an S-Works carbon HT, and would have another"

But njee you inferred earlier they were dull, heavy and not fully developed! 😉

Careful stratobiker! njee knows best. 😉

There are certainly cheaper carbon bikes out there but the Stumpy hardtail frames, both alloy and carbon, have been refined over the years into one of the best race frames available.

SKS Shockboard front and SKS X-Tra Dry rear on all my mtb's. Both removed in seconds when not needed.

"OMG! Uber noob pwnd" Ooer! that doesn't sound very polite.

Ok I give in. I'll surrender to the wisdom of the forum.
A couple of points raised on this thread;

"but more of an issue is a bigger rider puts more weight on the fork and hence more flex"

"mostly on harder surfaces with larger frames and riders"

makes me wonder if the problem didn't exist until lardy mountain bikers started riding cross bikes not for their intended purpose.Ho Ho 🙂

Sorry guys still can't accept this is the cause of the problem. I hear what you are saying but 10mm of flex at the fork tips will translate to less than 1.5mm of fore/aft movement at the bosses. Even taking into account this travels in an arc, the distance between hanger to brakes can only vary by much less than 0.1mm. With all the play in the system surely this cannot significantly increase pad pressure at the rims.

I still maintain incorrectly toed in and set up pads are the primary cause of the problem. They start the judder as they prematurely grip and release (snatch), this gets amplified through play in the cantis and brake bosses, ultimately then violently flexing/juddering the forks.

Many cross bikes cannot be fitted with fork mounted cable hangers as there is no hole at the crown

letmetalktomark

Yes they seem to be breathable – never noticed this to be a problem.
TBH they probably look better off the bike. Although they are overtrousers, the cut is quite tailored, so look ok with or without trousers under.
Not saying they are the best garment out there, but for the price I think they are ok.

I have a pair of these for commuting – still seem to be waterproof after a couple of years use;

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=9273

These Smart sets aren't a bad price at the mo;

http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/smart-b-spoke-1-2-led-lightset-id41560.html

http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/smart-polaris-5-white-led-front-light-317r-rear-1-2watt-led-id35012.html