Something not quite right here. Yes the piccie shows an integrated headset but the OP says his current headset is an Orbit MX which is a Standard Type headset?

Another vote for the Bike Tools workstand. Had one for years and still going strong. Very good value for money

The MX is a normal headset so the normal Hope one should fit and the stack height is a couple of mill less so steerer length will be ok as well.

My son is also going with his Scout group – So lets hope Swadey stays well away from the area. 🙂

Can't offer any advice on the Escape Mini but just noticed them reduced at J E James;

http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/giant-escape-mini-0-city-bike-id42889.html

Seems like a good deal.

This thread from a few weeks ago might offer some clues;

http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/cassette-gets-loose-no-matter-how-much-i-tighten-the-lock-ring-road-bike

Hilly 15 mile circular ride starting in Buxton;

Buxton, Roman Road, White Hall, Ladder Hill, Taxal,Hoo Moor, Fernilee Res., Errwood Res., Goyt's Clough, Derbyshire Bridge, Macclesfield Road back to Buxton.

Takes about 2-2.5hrs with about 6 miles on roads.

And one starting at Topley Pike on the A6 a couple of miles east of Buxton.

Topley Pike, Wye Dale, King Sterndale, Horseshoe Dale, Priests Way, Chelmorton, Monksdale Fm., Limestone Way, Millers Dale, Limestone Way, Wormhill, Tunstead, Mosley Fm., Wye Dale, Chee Dale back to Topley Pike.

15m with 3.5m on road – takes about 2.5hrs

How about a Giant TCX frameset.
One set of bottle bosses but no mudguard eyelets.
Frame weight 1420g – medium size.
http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-GB/bikes/model/tcx.frameset/4879/39338/

There are also some superseded 08 frames here;
http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/giant-tcx-frameset-id39937.html
Not the same design as current model, but only about 30g heavier and quite cheap.

My new commuter / comedy bike.

Cheapest bike I've ever bought, but loads of fun to ride.

The different tax code allowances won't make any difference to the figures as the savings come out of the taxable portion of your salary.
Unless of course the deductions took your salary below the tax allowance – but I am assuming that is not the case.

I've found these tiny clip on bags from Decathlon pretty good and quite cheap;

http://www.decathlon.co.uk/EN/comp-0-2l-17255484/

They shouldn't move as there is a small projecting lug on the end of the plastic ferrule which grips the rubber sleeve.

We is there now blud.
Just got back from the Scott Sunset tent with sounds by dj Doddy.
It's gonna bee a safe weekend.

Good old Sturmey Archer 3 speed!

"i;ve been disappointed everytime i've visited, not worth the money imho, better off going for a ride"

Everytime? Not even once! Methinks. 😯

My comments posted after last years first event;

For £25 my son and myself spent a whole weekend sampling different bikes, riding dirt and tarmac, watching mtb heroes racing and jumping and a bit of chill out time inbetween. Fantastic.
OK the brill weather was a huge bonus but the lack of a multitude of jumble sale trade stands was not missed. Perhaps a few more toilets and water points for the campers would be good for next year.
Already looking forward to 2010
POSTED 1 YEAR AGO #

Samways in Derby, as usual a pleasant experience, had a chat with some of the assistants. Bought a Mobi pressure washer (price matched down to tinternet price – Thankyou). Looked at a rather smart 2011 Kink Gap bmx for my son (also at a good price) who is now working out how many times he needs to mow the lawn to pay for it.
Sadly, I have to admit to buying too much over the internet and not using my local bike shop enough.

6 road bikes – now that would be silly. Only 3 of them are road bikes. 🙂

I have 6 bikes. Why on earth would a world class professional cyclist have the use of only one bike!

Sorry to read about your loss. On reading your previous thread I assume you work for J E James.
Come on J E James surely you can loan a suitable bike of the correct size with gearing to suit, to an employee doing a Charity Bike ride.

PS. If you don't work there, then my comments are meaningless. Hope you have a good ride. 🙂

I've now polished off the second half of my bottle of wine, and this thread is making a bit more sense. I think I'll crack open another bottle, and who knows, when that's gone I might even offer a full refund myself. 🙂

Ha Ha! This is a wacky thread. smartsi gets ripped off but thread makes no sense at all until a mate posts a long explanation.
Mind you I have just drunk half a bottle of wine!

I hope for the op's sake it is a spacer issue as he mentions the individual sprockets are loose. If the whole cassette wobbles as one unit then this would indicate freehub wear – probably wear on the inboard nylon bearing or worse the alloy axle.
Seems strange it's ok when first assembled though.

If it's a10 speed 105 cassette you need to fit two spacers on Mavic hubs. The first thicker one comes with the wheel and is used for Shimano cassettes, and the thinner one is supplied with the 10 speed cassette.

Strangely a 10 speed cassette is narrower than a 9 speed. Yes it will fit on a nine speed freewheel, just remember to fit the spacer that comes with the cassette.

100mm and fully flipped.

Or as Sheldon Brown recommends;

Factory Lube
New chains come pre-lubricated with a grease-type lubricant which has been installed at the factory. This is an excellent lubricant, and has been made to permeate all of the internal interstices in the chain.
This factory lube is superior to any lube that you can apply after the fact.

Some people make the bad mistake of deliberately removing this superior lubricant. Don't do this!

The factory lubricant all by itself is usually good for several hundred miles of service if the bike is not ridden in wet or dusty conditions. It is best not to apply any sort of lube to a new chain until it is clearly needed, because any wet lube you can apply will dilute the factory lube.

Well the traditional way to adjust fore/aft seat position is to drop a vertical line from the boney protrusion below the knee so it intersects the pedal axle with the cranks at the three fifteen position.
Most complete bikes seem to be fitted with layback posts in my experience.

Ive always assumed frames are designed to take layback/offset seatposts to get the correct fore/aft relationship to the cranks. This has certainly been the case with all the frames I've owned. In-line posts throw the seat too far forward and are more driven by fashion than function!

I have an 08 s-works ht with a 'campy standard' integrated headset.
The bearings are 41.8 dia. x 6.5 x 45 deg. and stamped MH-P08 (probably Cane Creek).
I think the Cane Creek ISi (Italian Standard) range of integrated headsets will fit.
Hope this may of some help – bearing size for the different types of integrated headsets is a nightmare!

PS. In answer to your query I think the Hope Integrated fits the Cane Creek International Standard (thier IS range) and not the 'campy standard'.

I have various bikes with integrated h/sets, both Cane Creek and Campag standard. None have any additional bottom seal and rely on the cartridge bearing seals, and all have a gap between the crown race flange and bearing, although nowhere near 3mm.
Pretty poor design in my opinion, although the bottom bearings seem to be holding up ok, albeit occasionly prising off the rubber seals and injecting some decent grease in.

"also i can bet that njee20 and me are some of the fitest"

bikerbruce – wow that's a bit of a sweeping statement! Mind you if your the same Bruce who races in the NDCXL then I must admit you are no slouch. 🙂

It doesn't sound like your bike is too small, despite the above comments. Giant recommend 55.5 (large) for 6' 0" to 6' 3", so at 6' 1" you are spot on.
For what it's worth I would suggest setting the saddle level, height so leg straight (locked out) with heel on pedal at bottom of stroke. Adjust saddle on rails so boney protusion below knee is perpendicular above pedal axle when crank at quarter to nine position. This should give a good starting point to fine tune from.
To relieve your back pain I would imagine you probably need to experiment with different stem length/rise combinations.
Hope you get it sorted.

I run 32C Kenda Small Block 8's in dry conditions and 31C Panaracer Crossblaster's when muddy. Both fast rolling very light (under 300g) tyres.
Used for racing but equally good for general riding.

Could try VCNotts Summer Series MTB race nights – well two out of the three anyway. Run more on cyclocross type rules and courses but good fun and a good standard of riders enter.
Details here;
http://www.vcnotts.com/mtbracenights.htm

colnagokid and njee – Thanks for feedback.

Never worried about this before, but having read this thread I may have been doing this wrong for years on Mavic / Shimano combinations.

For Shimano 9 speed cassettes use the Mavic spacer.

For Shimano 10 speed use the Mavic spacer plus the Shimano spacer supplied with the cassette.

Never had any problems, but any thoughts appreciated.

The TCX2 has the same aluxX SL frame as the higher models but gets alumin. forks in lieu of composite. Strangely it is the only model to get mudguard/rack eyelets. A medium frame weighs in at 1460g.
Hope this helps.

In true STW form I will recommend the opposite.
I'd go for the Giant even though it is not specced as well it has a better frame. The frame is semi-compact but is still OK to shoulder.
Purely personal taste but I think the Giant looks better. Both bikes are good value so either go for the best deal or the one which you prefer the look of.

PS. This is a very biased opinion as I have a TCX which is used for cross racing only.

njee – you are of course correct.
Photo taken at initial build. Steerer since cut down, seat higher and more importantly bar ends now line up with stem!