I would agree with both zIppy and foxyrider. I’ve run cartridge bearings for years, since Hope hubs appeared, but are not cheap to run. Apart from the bearing cost you really need to factor in buying the correct size drifts etc for safe removal/installation.
There is also a certain smug satisfaction in nipping up the cone nuts and getting just the right amount of play with cup and cone bearings!
Sorry can’t offer any useful advice.
I’ve only come across different 24 & 28 tpi threads, both take 5/16 bearings, and as you correctly say the number of bearings, but the cages are diff. size and not interchangable. Have found these on a mixture of kids, bmx and cruisers.
Hope you get it sorted.
Might be worth a read as there are slightly different size systems used.
Totally agree it’s virtually impossible to use loose bearings in a one piece crank – if ever there was a need for cages it’s here.
oldgit – I’ve used my cx bike on a 100mile road run in the past, so even I use the ‘wrong bike’ on occasion and it works/is fun.
It just seems to me there are a few bods on here who often post about how they’ve ridden ‘this and that’ very technical terrain on their cross bikes – just smacks of ‘Oooh look at me!’
I have a fairly novel approach to bike use, which sadly seems to be in the minority here.
Mountain bike – use offroad, trails etc.
Road bike – use on road.
Cross bike – use for cyclocross racing (shock horror!).
Just to throw a small spanner in the works.
Sizing may be year dependent;
2009 xtc. 16″ – 574 top tube
2010 xtc. 15″ – 575 top tube
2010 xtc 17″ – 595 top tube
Personally a 595 top tube might be a tad long for your height.
2009 and earlier sizes 16″ 18″ 20″
2010 and on sizes 15″ 17″ 19″
Seems fair enough to me. My voucher clearly stated the terms.
Mind you, ordered Monday morning, all items in stock, but still showing processing so not yet dispatched. Perhaps there is a catch after all!
At 6ft dead, 57cm is probably ideal, so you could fit either.
Personally I would go for the smaller frame as the headtube will be a bit shorter.
Not much help, sorry.
What planet are all you ‘new money’ mountain bikers from!
I assume you do realise people have been riding bikes on the road (and off-road) long before your beloved water buffalo rucksack was invented!
While most integrated headsets are drop in some of the earlier ones were press in.
As these were installed with a press they also require to be drifted out. Would have thought both upper and lower be the same though. Perhaps debris/grime or corrosion has wedged the lower set in, have you tried drifting it out.
Cotic Road Rat;
Good points – revered on STW as a road bike for mtb’ers.
Bad points – heavy and possibly the ugliest road bike ever to be created.
A Giant Defy, although not as trendy on here, will be light years ahead of a Rat!
There seems to be an awful lot of hype surrounding tyre choice and conditions on here.
I tend to fit a set of tyres which stay on until they wear out!
Unless I’m racing of course! – then paranoia takes over and I can blame wrong tyre choice/pressure etc on my poor result!!
I’d agree with njee at a 10 to 12% increase in speed for the same effort. So your 14.2 average would probably go up to around 16 mph.
If davidtaylforth can cruise to work at 25 mph average then he is in the wrong job – unless he already is a pro cyclist!
It’s rated waterproof and breathable and so far mine has been – about 2yrs old. Personally I would rate the breathability as average. I use it as an emergency waterproof and windproof shell, which packs up so small in it’s stuff sack, you can easily carry it in a back pocket.
I would not recommend using it in the depths of winter for a day in the hills!
Size wise a difficult call, but if any help I’m 5″ 11″ with 40″ chest and have a medium. It is a fairly close fit tho’ as don’t wear it over any bulky layers and is not over long in the body.
PS The Rutland link was just for info. Probably better deals in more colours elsewhere.
Put on the lycra, roll out the racy ht, grip those bar ends and laugh out loud at all the baggy clad ‘gnar’ types on their cow horn shod long travel sofas wallowing around the trails.
No I don’t feel like a noob!
One of the fastest race tyres for dry conditions yet surprisingly grippy in the wet and mud. If CRC are still doing them for £10 they’re a real bargain
Steel frames are produced solely for the benefit of the STW inner circle who recommend them at every conceivable opportunity!
Unfortunately, steel has no place in the real world of performance cycles.
My son’s cx came with cross top levers and were 31.8 dia. as they were fitted on the bulged centre section close to the stem, within about 50mm either side of stem. All depends how wide your bulge is I suppose!!
Carbon assembly paste will certainly stop it slipping but will mark and pit the finish. If this is a problem you can get nearly as good results by using talcum powder, and no cosmetic damage.
