Hey, yeah it was an brilliant experience.
To be completely honest did so little research into it that me and my partner ended up just going with the flow.

This was the first time since our son (24months) was born that we’ve had whole day off ( not having to do bed time etc.) So this was the biggest treat!!

We got there relatively late 12.30pm but that meant we drove straight into the car park with out any traffic and no queues to walk in.
I was surprised how much of a festival feel it was there. Really nice and relaxed.

We came in on the opposite side on the track to maggots Becketts chapel. We decided that it was to far to walk so we ended up watching from Brooklands luffield. Wasn’t too busy there so was able to get close to the fence and get a good view of the cars.

The race went by so quick, was hard to keep track of all the nuances of the race but the atmosphere was amazing when Lewis was hunting down leclerc.
Would definitely recommend it.

Thanks y’all for all the info. Lots to digest!
Our ticket is just for the Sunday race day so thinking that bikes will be a no no.

We’ve got parking already booked on site i think, so will have to put up with the queues.
How long does it take to get in/park?? And get out at the end??

Maggots/Becketts sounds like a good place. Any other good viewing spots?

Also seen on their website that they allow bikes in to get around. It’s this something worth considering or will it be annoying to cart about? Cheers

Bent mech hanger?? From what you described that’s the likely culprit.
Or check the mech, jockey wheels have play?or the mech pivot bolt seized? Couple of things to check out.

107 and 110 are pretty the same length on the drive side of the axle. 0.5mm difference! Think 107 is able to have a etype front mech fitted behind the driveshaft cup.
So either is fine

It’s got to be an azada. Back saving tool.
Using a spade all of a sudden seems ridiculous once you’ve tried an azada.

I’ve got the 2x one with the end door (only one that would fit in our front “garden”)

it fits 2 drop bar bikes fine. Anything with wide bars would be annoying to take in and out. As you said annoying end door.

In response to OP, Is the UK a corrupt country?

Nah!
Any backhanders or nepotism is this country is nothing.
My partner’s work colleague in Uganda was having a C-section when the doctors stopped and wouldn’t continue until a bribe was received. The baby did not survive!!
I could not believe or fathom this. But a quick google into the situation there shows institutionalised corruption and bribery is the norm.

https://www.u4.no/publications/uganda-overview-of-corruption-and-anti-corruption-2018

Quote from the paper says – Paying bribes is a regular part of daily life in Uganda. Thirty-eight per cent of people said that they paid a bribe for a public service in the previous year.

So in comparison the UK is not corrupt.

How did you measure the BB, that was “goosed”?

The length of the spindle/axle doesn’t always equate to the stated size of a BB. Found this with Shimano BB’s.

Don’t think there’ll be any benefit from bleeding the brake if it’s a sticky piston.

Mobilising the piston by how you described “pushing the pads back” and then pulling the lever so the piston moves out again, keep doing this and hopefully this will mobilise the piston. This will ruin the pads if you are using a screwdriver to push pads back over and over.

careful not to push the pistons out too far that they come out completely!

Also if you have a bit of mineral oil you could put a bit on the edge of stuck piston to help lubricate.

it’s worth a go if it’s completely dead anyway

Good luck with it

While you’re at that stage consider insulating pipes, insulating under floors, cleaning airbricks and running any additional services.

All services are being done as well, electrics being replaced and plumbing runs need to be changed.

But yeah didn’t think about insulating the floor that’s a good shout!

Feel slightly better about my woodworm now.

😀

thanks for the help everyone, I’m having to rip the whole ground floor up as it’s all knackered. Wishful thinking but I was only expecting to replace wall plates and joists.
I’m sure there’s more fun and games lurking under there!

Also would you cement the new bit of joist in or just leave it sat on/in the brickwork?
Just to say I think the joist rotted because of a leaking radiator directly above. The house is new to me eeek!

It’s rotten pretty much all the way up unfortunately.
I’ll look into scarph joints.

those serrated tooth things look great!
would bolting 2 8x2s together to make a 8×4 be alright?

thanks for all the replies!

No if you’re worried about it, that’s fine!
Helicopter tape is very thin and strong and easily mouldable as well, and relatively cheap

Thanks for the insights,
Yeah will be getting a rail pass.
An Italian beach holiday isn’t high on my places to go list.
I’ve heard the language can be difficult.

annoyingly not all bearings are created the same so even if think you have the correct dimensions eg 45×45 they can still vary a lot.
It’s really annoying, we have this problem at work a lot and we’ve started to keep bearings from different suppliers to try and combat this.

Yeah i think petrol is what I’d like, as the garden is relatively modest.
Borrowed an electric mower to use as i couldn’t get my petrol one to run and that made me dislike electric even more. Might have been the flymo mower. But it’s so much easier with a petrol one

Thanks glasgowdan that’s exactly the info I needed.
Not sure I can be bothered going down the 2nd hand route

Honda’s look a bit expensive, not sure I can stretch to that.

Did think about 2nd hand, just wasn’t sure what to look out for, but will look at Briggs and Strattons

What is there to look out for in a petrol mower?

Helped a friend who had a hip replacement fit a longer crank on one side. This sorted out his knee problems he was having when doing longer road rides.

2 hours for a 51focus
That did involve going to halfords to buy the bulb(maybe 30mins)
What ridiculous design having to take the battery out to access things.

I think halfords will refuse changing involves tools/removing stuff

remember reading this ctc article on dynamo hubs and that the drag of a dynamo hub equates to 6ft over a mile.

great write up PeterPoddy

interested to see how you routed the rear dynamo cable?
any chance of some more pics?

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/buying-a-brompton-options

Lots of good info about brompton buying here.
Bromptons are brilliant, not cheap but are extremely well built.
Dynamo is really useful, if you’ve not had dynamo before then it’s a revelation. Lighting becomes a non-issue. You grab your bike like it’s summer, not having to think did I pack my lights.
It’s not for everyone because retro fitting dynamo is expensive but if you are sourcing one I’d recommend it.
Have you looked on welovebromptons website? That’s where I got mine from.

Wouldn’t worry too much about the weight of add ons,
Would definitely recommend dynamo lights, the newer B&M led lights as great!
If you want a rack would get it from new as retro fitting is a pain as you need to replace mudguard to fit as well,
The C Bag is 25litres and I’ve found to be good, has water proofing but also has a hiviz rain cover included.

I find the standard gearing a bit high, considering converting to 6spd or smaller chainset.

If the cables are stainless steel then pop cables out of the cable holders and run normal chain oil on to them.
If the cables are corroding or galvanised cables then you can wire wool them and then re-oil.
But if you’re going to that amount of work I’d just replace 🙂

how old is the mech? hold the mech and see if there is any play in the pivots.
if the pivots are worn then whatever adjustments you do you’ll never be able to index correctly.

yep 27 looks a dead cert
and matches what wheels manufacturing say aswell

By the look of things hanger 27 from the website maybe right.

Can you remove the hanger and photograph just the drop out so we can see what shape the rear of the mech hanger should be.

http://wheelsmfg.com/derailleur-hanger-manufacturers/?manufacturer=Kona&q=fire%20mountain

Does it look like any of these?

Can you take a photo of the dropout,
Showing where the hanger fits,
I can try and take a look at our chart on monday to try and match up for you.

a simple wheel retruing may not be sufficient if the rim has been fundamentally damaged in the collision,
are the spoke tensions loose where the wheel goes out of true?
if spoke tensions are even all the way around then the rim is damaged.

best of luck with it all

a front mech that is properly designed for mtb crankset to be used with road drop shifters, for touring.

I know there are workarounds, have got something to work but it’s not 100% perfect. Basically I find 48/38/28 to big for fully laden touring.

does it do the opposite if you slacken the cable tension,
i.e. from biggest to smallest it indexes fine but then from smallest to biggest it doesn’t index correctly?
this would then show if the cable is slick enough and then maybe something else.

is the hanger straight? is the mech bent? any play in the mech pivots?

If it is quite simply just gears and brakes being set up with cables being installed then we would charge £30
but I reckon there are extras on top of that, ie mech hanger straighten, and as others have suggested checking all new bits installed.
so I would say £50 is probably right.

could you give it a go and see if you can get things working? always take it to the LBS if all fails 🙂

mepilex dressing is also good,
keep the wound covered!

that’s the advice I would say.
Also my pharmacist friend said the same thing to me. She’s looking into the effectiveness of manuka honey in wound dressings, her research seems to show that it has amazing healing properties. Be careful as her tests show that some supermarket manuka honey has hardly any manuka in it, so don’t go spreading it on.

anyway I came off on the road doing 15-20 mph and had road rash, was horrible, used mepilex dressings, replaced and cleaned the wound regulary, kept the wound covered for maybe 2 weeks until new skin formed without scabbing and scarring.
much quicker healing and there’s none of that breaking the scab and it bleeding business. The advice of leave open to air seems to very wrong.

p

Buy an iwanson gauge to measure the the thickness of the rim
Any thing at 1mm is recommended to be replaced.
I was reading an article on rim wear and roughly the rim will fail/split at 0.7mm but it’s dependant on lots of variables such as the construction of the rim, tyre volume.

We’ve had a couple of touring bikes that wanted MTB triples and road sti’s
We got them working with using the correct MTB front mech for the crankset and placing the cable on the underside of the clamp bolt as this shortens the pull. Its not 100% perfect and the shift isn’t as light in feel,

But this is the best we’ve found at work.

Might be a lot easier with a double crankset, but its one of those, try it and see. What size double is it?