+1 for mud-x unless really sticky, then Medusa’s for max shedding, we have really nast sticky/claggy clay around here and medusa’s are the best for shedding although Panareacer Fire Mud Pro’s are ok too. Mud-x is nicer all round tyre though.

Talib Kweli did good stuff with DJ Hi Tek

google nexus S

If Rutland are running true to form I’d be surprised if any of it was in stock though

+1

Running sintered in my 575’s with no rotor damage. Mine don’t rattle, are all your mounting screws tight???

Sintered are the only pads that last in the muck around our way.

Prefer Illy but can’t justify the price gap over lavazza gold

Just use Ostrich mince, way lower fat than beef mince and nice flavour too!

Willej is right, the nozzles you have mix the resin and hardener before it comes out of the end…

It’s for chemical anchors, looks like it’s for rawl r-kf2 size tubes…

Basically, you drill a hole in concrete or masonry, squidge your kemfix in with this gun (just like a heavy duty silcon gun) then jam you theaded metal bar in the hole, in 30mins the kemfast expands and sets and hey presto you have a metal stud sticking out and stuck fast…

Fire XC pro just clogs in the mud round by us… Fire Mud ok but low volume and not very comfy on a hardtail and quite draggy.

+1 mud-x, I was dubious about bonty tyres after finding the ones that came on my first trek were horrid in all conditions, but love the mud-x even in the snow…

Many thanks to bigyinn and bikewhisperer!!!

Many thanks to bigyinn! As he said just 2 more to go…

bikewhisperer, YES PLEASE…! However, I can’t see your email in your profile, mine is visible, can you email me or post your address?

Thank you…

Anyone…?

Slide Cable ties lengthways between grips and bars for putting on then just pull out cableties when grips in position (usually need 4), also use hairspray for stick. Not sure if you can get the cable ties back in for removal though.

+1 to Woody that was like weak UB40 and I hate UB40…

Cher can sing sc-xc…

high5 zero seriously upsets me!!!! AVOID…

Does nobody use medusa’s anymore? I rate them in the sticky clag…

These look lurrrvveellllyy…..

That Dahon looks amazing, shame it’s tied into a particular seat tube…

Has anyone else tried one of these…[/url] ?

I love it, got mine for £15, makes better coffee than any home coffee maker I’ve ever tasted… Plus there is nearly zero cleaning, just a quick rinse, and you can choose your brew time and water temperature as precisely as you like to get your perfect custom brew… And you can you make more straight after, with no faffing around if you need to make lots of cups! And it’s portable

No, I don’t sell them, or work for them, or even remotely connected, just chuffed to $%^& with mine…

THank you for the pointers… I will explore as per Strike’s suggestions

Also, can someone explain to me why the riding is “cheeky”…??

I can’t work out whether it’d be more painful to spend time with the outlaws or visit the spice museum….

Jamie, Spot-on….

wow – what did you do wrong?

Tell me about it… it gets worse, it’s with the out-laws….

Thanks for replies so far… it’s not looking good…

I can highly recommend Ian Burrows a chartered IFA on 01733 552 214, a keen mountain biker as well…

Trout, in the cold light of day I can see where one LED has shorted on the case… Do you think the dim one will be ok?

We’ve all put our requirements on a list expecting you to be able to supply, is it possible for you to supply this list? if so I’ll add the cost of another LED to my next batch and get it all paid in one. Is that OK or would you rather me buy one seperately?

Lightbuilding lesson 01 for me, “Don’t build lights at midnight with too much Stella within easy reach…”

DISASTER…

Making up second light tonight, decided to make it as small as possible, electrics running nicely out of the box, insert into box and after 10 secs, only one LED operative and it is dim… Position of switch does nothing, no off or dimming….

Take electrics out of box, still knackered… WTF have I done, blown driver, blown LED??? Could I have shorted something in the box? It all looks wired correctly still…

Please help… I’ve no idea what has happened…

Another Update:

Jazid – xpg LED Kit (incl. lexan + angle) + Driver Kit (3way + 2way)
runswithscissors LED kit + Driver kit
bobblehat 4 * 20mm xp-g + 2 pieces of lexan please!
john_walker74 LEDs & Driver
bigjim LED kit + driver kit
mau00149 led kit + driver kit
norcbot led kit + driver kit
landy813 – driver
Clobber, 4xLED kit + 4xDriver kit + 2*20mm xp-g (these are for friends so I’ll make sure there is a profit for you Troutie!)
Damo2576 – LED & Driver Kit)

Update No.2……
runswithscissors LED kit + Driver kit
bobblehat 4 * 20mm xp-g
john_walker74 LEDs & Driver
bigjim LED kit + driver kit
mau00149 led kit + driver kit
norcbot led kit + driver kit
landy813 – driver
Clobber LED kit + driver kit + 2*20mm xp-g (please)

Got my first one running tonight… Made it in 2 hours which is probably slow, but the finished article is fantastic…

The throw is phenomenal, really, really chuffed…

I’ll try and get some trail shots tomorrow night..

Big thanks to Trout, BCT and smudge, there is nothing that can compare at double/triple the price point…!

I’m going to need more kits as all my mates are going to want one!!

+1 Great Guy

cut the rope
avatar
NOVA
axe in face
Monkey island 2
hoggy
uniwar
doodlejump
fragger
paper toss
crazy test

TSB, agree the fins will do naff all but they seem the cheapest/easiest way to get contact top and bottom short of a solid block of ally. I’m hoping the driver will fit perfectly between the fin stacks, fingers crossed…

TSB, If you look at Fisha’s pics on pg 5, it should fit like that but even more snug to the outer edges of the box, therefore the box becomes part of the heatsink. Obviously more surface area exposed to cooling air is better but, I’m trying to get a trade off between as small as possible, but still not cooking any componenetry if I forget to turn it down when stopped. (Which is quite likely with me…)

Trout has cut his down as far as he dares, battery is no longer inside, and he mentions not cutting the box down too far so as to leave material in for heatsinking, I think…

Please correct me if I’m wrong.

These look like they will fit nicely into the hammond box if anyone wants any extra heat sinking action

Heatsink Clicky….

I’ve bought some, will post a pic when they arrive.

Aidan, Halo are probably covering their arse but within 2 weeks of me swapping the wheel to ss, the hub broke… Not sure what you’re selling, is is just a hope pro 2 ss hub? or built into a wheel?

Hairychested, which one?

Thanks for the hub tips, but if I’m changing hubs I think I’d have to buy a wheel, I’ve replaced spokes and trued wheels but not built a wheel up before.

So surly/wide based cogs on hope xc should be fine… I’ll try that. But would still like some recommendations for a ss specific rear wheel please…

Ringo, more info please, what is your proper ss job?

FS, maybe try it on my hope XC hubs, but I heard the ss cogs tear through the hope freehub outer body.

Hi Chris/BCT

Payments sent for two kits of each. Please let me know you’ve received and if I got the amounts right.

Thanks for this, I’m also really excited about it!!!!

JC