If the seals broken I wont use anything opened over 6 months ago. I leave it in the bike for 12 months, which would then means its been able to soak up moisture for about a 18 months and you are meant to renew it at 2 years anyway. Probably a bit wasteful mind 😳 I only use the little bottles from Halfrauds though so doesn’t get too much wastage from a few set of brakes.

I think the SB66c kit used to be two pieces too. TBH Its probably easier to fit as two pieces than one, I found my single piece hard to line up.

Anyway, once its all done, get out and ride, you’ll be well chuffed 😀

Use the Pro Bleed Kit – way way better than the standard one. Can be had for the price of the standard one if you shop around.

Not a dog owner, but I have a converted T5 camper so can offer some advice. The van as is when converted will get very hot in the sun, even with the front windows cracked open some, shades all round and an insulated van. However I would imagine with a pop-top (with top vent/mesh windows) and tailgate cracked open a bit (with devices listed above), it will greatly reduce the temps in the back. I would definitely advise finding someone with the same setup you plan to run and see what their van is like as standard they get very very hot inside in the sun.

Definitely the freehub seal. Might need the tool to get it to seat properly. After doing my XX1 freehub (XD) I had to use the tool to seat it as it was not going in by hand.

Hmm, dont trust their results, it gave me 11Mb/s but when I tested it with Speedtest.net it was immediately @ 24Mb/s. I’m on fibre so it should be upto 40Mb/s which it does touch sometimes, was uber quick when I trailed it with Plusnet as I was the only one on the cab 😀 Shame more people are on it now and slowing it down hah

I think the max travel on the 34s is 160mm, so makes sense there is no reducer. What did you think it would go upto?

I have 34’s reduced down to 150mm to match my SB66c, which I might remove for an Alps trip later in the year, in which case I expect there to be a 10mm spacer (Mojo spaced it down for LBS).

hora – Member

Some people (not saying you at all here) seem to think being able to go faster means they are getting better. It doesn’t it just means they are taking more of a risk.

If you crash alot something is wrong with your technique. When I’m getting better and better I never crash, or even close- I’m more relaxed and my balance is way better on the bike.
I see this a lot. People charge head long into sections and have no idea what’s there – but hey its a trail – so you must be able to go flat out right? Rather than riding to their ability/visibility and taking it easy first time into a section (or heaven forbid actually walk it), they charge in and then have quite bad crashes for no good reason. What really affirms this is that people I know that do this are repeat offenders as they have no idea how it happened – ie too fast in, don’t see what’s there, boom – OTB.

I think I have been so unscathed for so many years as I can read what’s coming and stop in time so that I don’t launch off/into something I shouldn’t. I guess I learnt this from years of kayaking where you cant just launch into rapids/falls not knowing what’s there, you have to learn to read the river, just like you should with a trail. You can always push back up and do a feature if you come onto it to slow first time around. Far better to read the trail that way than barrel into something and hurt yourself for no good reason IMO.

Yeti have said they will continue to make the SB66 is bike shops order them, no orders, no SB66. They even admitted its the bike they all like riding the most. Doesnt sound like they’re getting rid of the moulds or owt, maybe just waiting for the 27.5 thing blow over before rolling out a “new and improved” 26″ wheeled new bike 👿

You’ll love it – well done 😀

I would make sure you whack a 50mm stem on it, shortens it up a bit (as it is a long frame) and gives nice balanced handling.

big_scot_nanny – Member
Yup, I get it if not signed in, as soon as I sign in it goes away.

I seem to remember mine is the same. If I’m signed in, I have ads turned off, so I think its something to do with the ads on display opening popups to app store 😈

stewartc – Member

Go for it, have been very lucky to have a SB66c as my only bike for the last 15 months and loved it.
Used for everything from a little XC (hard work) to DH weekends though some people find the long toptube maybe a little stretched out for their riding style I like it.
Couldn’t agree more. Coming from a 130mm Stumpy FSR, the SB66c actually climbs and descends better! For 150mm it doesnt feel wallowy, its very taught in the suspension, you have to push it to get it going which means on XC it behaves much more like a shorter travel bike. Its only on the proper downs that it gets more into its travel, soaking up the big hits when required. Awesome bike!

I have a SB66c but was very tempted by the Bronson C. Same problem with Alu vs Carbon, and if you have the cash, go for the carbon. It drops the weight of the frame by a good chunk, but more than that it makes for a much stiffer frame, and it definitely feels better. The other question to ask yourself is will you be upgrading stuff eventually? As you can add better forks/shock/compoenents, but cant then upgrade to a carbon frame later for a small amount. Better to get carbon to start with and be happy with it, you wont be disappointed.

Go for the Pikes and I’d say the Kashima shock or better to give it the full works 😀

Baznav – Member
The avid pro bleed kit is the best you’ll buy.

Most definitely this. If you shop around you can get them for the price of the cheaper non-pro one.

Hopefully mine will be today too then 🙁

Aye, they have a DWR coating on them it appears. Splashes/rain beads up and rolls off, but if you get caught in proper rain, it will wet through. Work well though, as your legs are always moving, the water rolls off a fair bit before soaking through.

This is the problem with the new trails touted as a trail centre. It just doesn’t have the elevation to let it drain away enough, but people expect to be able to ride it in all weathers. Used to hold up ok as people would see it was a mess and lay off it for a bit while it dried but now it gets a hammering. Still keeps Rowan and co in business as I bet they will be there a while doing maintenance!

Sell both, get a carbon 26er which is light enough up the climbs and then great fun on the downs. You dont *need* 29ers for anything, it just makes things easier but makes the downs less fun. So light 26er with decent amount of travel and jobs a good un 😀

Good choice Freddie, you wont be disappointed. I really should stop recommending the SB66, there will be loads of them about soon, although now maybe Yeti will even stop it being mothballed if LBS start to order them again.

SB66 for me, as above fit something stiffer than a 32, I run 34s and it’s great. Mojo’s seem a bit XC side of trail for me, I hear they rip up climbs but don’t come down as well as they should.

jekkyl – Member

Keswick. The old railway track out of Keswick to Threlkeld will be ideal for a family ride. Goes alongside the river so nice bridges & countryside. If Daddy can get away by himself tons of choice, whinlatter, skiddaw & the bash with Helvellyn just down the road. There’s loads of pubs, restaurants and there’s a cinema for wet weather days as well. Gentle family walk? Catbells is a great one.
Gets my vote. Daddy can always loop up and around Threlkeld, Blencathra, Latrigg and see if he can be the missus and wee one back 😀

Doh1Nut – Member

Normally an 8 in specialized – wear Teva 8
Shoe tonge really thick and a bit weird at first, better after a short time
Ditto this. The tongue makes them feel like a tight fit as they go on but once on they feel fine, and keep your feet pretty warm.

Another vote for Lanefoot, they have underfloor heating in the showers 😀

campfreddie – Member
Ask me again when the Yeti SB75C frame comes out.

Will certainly be interesting when the C comes out, see if it makes it “come alive”. Certainly the reviews of the SB75 so far say its not the best middle ground between a SB66 and SB95, comments suggest you should go one way or the other, and not try and sit in the middle.

I was torn with the SB66c, with the SB75 being imminent when I got it, but so happy I went with the SB66c, it fits perfectly with what I want it to do. The bike industry can **** off trying to take 26s away from us 🙁 (or rather those muppets who keep asking for 650B without having tried one so bike companies rush out to make them). Sure Yeti will have a SB76c ready and dailled for when my SB66c is ready for retirement though hah…

gmex619 – Member
Yeti SB66c
Reverb/masterpiece dropper.
Xx1
Fox kashima both ends
Pro2 evo hubs on enve rims
Hope/enve finishing kit.
Priced this up. Around 7k

Better not tell you where I live, thats pretty much my current bike bar the Enve rims (its on Stans and a whole lot cheaper!). Its a lovely bit of kit, sell your kidney or do 0% finance with Ubyk and you’ll be over the moon 😀

140mm really is the most travel you want on the 32s, I noticed more flex on mine when I had the travel spacer removed (130mm up to 140mm). Now on 34s @ 150mm on a different frame and there’s way less flex. I only ran a 180mm rotor on mine, 200mm will cause more flex than I saw again. So I’d say its normal as you’re at the limit of the 32 really.

If its the Scott@Silverfish I dealt with then I think he’s omnipresent, he seemingly sent out the bump stop for my SB66c before the bike shop asked him 😀 (top service!)

Thirded Riders Retreat, they were great for us. Very very nice chalet.

veedubdave – Member
Rode the new Penhydd red today. Didn’t have time for the blue though. Have to say that although it was great fun it doesn’t compare to Y Wal and Whites. Ironically the best bits for me were the old bits from the original – sidewinder and dead sheep gully, Sidewinder is classic Afan singletrack through the trees and rides so well.

Couldnt agree more. And fully agree with the rest of your thoughts/findings. Shame really as a bit of Rowanish is all good, but it was just too much of the same swoopy bermy stuff. Needs some interest in between them. Having never ridden the old trail, I loved ripping through Sidewinder. Bit of the same with BPW, and even Swinley which is our local and also done by Rowan. You’re lucky you missed the blue really, its more of the same of what you didn’t really like on the red!

To me it a good trail to add to the weekend (and the rest of Afan), but I wouldn’t head up there just for that trail alone which I would for several of the Lakes/Scotland routes.

matth75 – Member
FWIW you can thread the chains through an old innertube and secure the ‘tube with cable ties to eliminate metal on metal contact with the frames.

Did this with mine, does a cracking job of protecting the bike. Only problem is eventually the tubes break down so need to redo them now and again (talking every few years here).

InvisiFrame is very good, but time consuming to apply properly and I have a feeling it will wear quite quick in high contact areas around the stem etc, but as a full frame cover its great to stop the frame getting scratched/marred. 3M helitape is the best for high contact areas. Never had a problem with it, all tapes will lift if you catch the edges. Be sure to degrease the frame first, then clean it with IPA, apply tape with heat and leave it 24hrs to adhere properly.

Sufferfest and base it on RPE, job jobbed if you are only doing this for fun and dont want to spend much. I found doing it on RPE I worked too hard to start with, when I swapped to HR I found I was working less but still knackered at the end of it but at least let me get to the end of the vids, some of them on RPE I wasn’t able to keep up lol. HR will be better if you fancy spending a little money but as its delayed, it doesnt always match up with what you think you are doing. Power meter is of course the best way, but then into mega bucks.

Nice! Give my SB66c a proper workout 🙂

Sounds to me like the DWR isn’t right from the factory. I love softshell kit and most of my stuff is very weather proof but will wet out eventually. Mostly happens when they get very dirty and had a few washes so the DWR protection has been lost. Quick blitz of tech wash/reapplication of DWR and its back to working again. Maybe in this case there is a problem with the DWR coating? Get them swapped out first and see if that fixes it and if its the same then maybe admit the DWR on those specific trousers isnt much cop 🙁

Mines been fine so far but hasnt seen the worst of the weather. It did develop a little click just before Xmas which appears to have been a bit of dirt behind one of the bearing covers (cover not seal, it sits in front of the bearings). Other bearings seemed fine when I stripped it down to find the click, all spinning smoothly and everything as clean as it could be given the use it gets. We’ll see how it holds out, I’m not looking forward to ever replacing the Switch link main bearings (big ones) as I don’t have a bearing tool for it so prob need to go back to Ubyk for that.

Cae Gwyn (http://www.caegwynfarm.co.uk/) are very bike friendly with nice rooms and a lockup in an outbuilding which is code locked. Also have a drying area for those soggy days 🙂

Should rinse off easily, low pressure hose not pressure washer. Swinley sand is easy to clean off, just rinses away. Lube chain afterwards. Job jobbed 🙂

GP 4 seasons for me. Changed over from Gatorskins and they seem grippier in cold weather. I will probably leave them on now as the bike is only my commuter so will just ride them til they wear out now.

Pawsy_Bear – Member
Can I ask a noob question (still 3×9)? Is there a big difference between xo and xx1 Looking at new bike and both are options. Could I up grade bit by bit later as it wears out to xx1?

No real difference, the only thing you will notice is in the price, mainly in OEM pre-built bikes. In retail side there is nowt between then (£50-£100), but in OEM, you should find the difference is more. I’d go for XO1 if it were me on a pre-build bike and the price was reasonably cheaper, and XX1 if getting it retail again. I have XX1, and very happy 🙂

My SB66c is plush as you like, but it is very supportive at the top of the stroke, you need to get it into the suspension to get it working. This can appear to manifest itself as harshness at the top of the stroke, I’d imagine much more than on a 575, which will feel plush/smooth all the way through the travel. What this initial resistance on the SB66 does provide is a much better support feeling to push against when pedalling, the suspension only seeming to really kick in when you really push it.

Two very different bikes, so maybe if the shock is set right, its not the bike for you? I love mine compared to my old Stumpjumper FSR which I imagine is very much like the 575, very active suspension, but I found it sapped a lot from my riding. The SB66 allows you to work the bike much more, pumping and popping off stuff that the FSR would just sap up.