Sounds like air is getting into the negative spring and not equalising. Can you pull them up to full travel and have them stay there? Or do they suck back down again?

Try letting all the air out. Remove the valve core and sharply extend the fork a few times. It may make a big sucking noise and extend. Suggesting the air was stuck in the negative.

If that works it could be caused by a damaged oring, damaged air spring leg shaft or scratched internal of stanchion. Or even just too much grease blocking the port inside.

Either way. Probably another job for the warranty department. But might give you an idea.

From what I’ve read they size up quite small even though they’re a big bike. The steep seat angle and super slack head angle bring the ETT right in for a pretty compact seated position.

I’m 6ft and have just gone for the XL. Not built it up fully yet, so not ridden it, which isn’t much help I suppose. But can’t wait!

Why not just use a wide mouth nalgene? I use one as a first aid kit for kayaking.

https://7rbags.com/shop/

Here’s another one. They make some nice looking stuff, and a cool front rack!

Human fall flat was my first thought.

First before installing the wheel ensure the pistons move as evenly as possible. If there’s a lazy one just excercise it in and out a few times while holding the others in.

Push the pistons back in and centre the caliper with the rotor.

Squeeze lever and hopefully the pistons come out evenly. If not, use a small screwdriver to hold the over extended pad back and squeeze the lever to extend the other piston.

I always find adjusting the pistons to centre a much better way of getting a solid brake than moving the caliper off of centre.
I’ve never found those metal spacers to work at all.

Give it a try. If they thread on and fit inside. All good.

Mine definitely sound squelchy. But I think that’s the motion control open damper rather than the nice quiet sealed charger units we’re used to now. I got 2 sets for 2 separate builds and they both sound the same.

I think I’ll open them up just in case then. But good to hear they’re pretty good.

Anyone opened up their Yaris yet? If so what’s the grease/oil situation like with them being a couple years old?

I’d fit a rack and strap a bag to the top. Still get full use of your dropper then, and almost certainly cheaper and more stable.

If it’s only occasional use any old rack will work.

Those of you who switched to a more backswept bar. Did you also find you had to get a slightly longer stem?

Where are you buying the newmen wheels from?

Looks like it’s a no go annoyingly. The new adapter and caliper fit in there fine, but you can’t get a bolt any longer than about 25mm in underneath the seatstay which rules out using the adapter.

It’s close, so could chop the end of the bolt off but that would leave too little thread I think.

I could thread the bolt through from underneath and put a nut on top, but that’s maybe heading towards being a bodge.

Thanks peoples,

I’ve done a bit more digging and it looks like the newer version of the frame is a 180mm direct mount, so I need a +23PM adapter, which the Hope H mount is. That doesn’t fit as it moves the calliper backwards, so I’ll have to order a different one and see if it fits. Found a Magura one that seems right. Will post up if successful!

I’ve got the rotor in no problems. Its the brake adapter and calliper I’m not too sure about as I know the clearance is super tight for the calliper. I seem to remember reading somewhere that a 203 will fit with a different adaptor. But not found anything definitive.

The Hope H mount definitely doesn’t work as it moves the calliper backwards slightly, so the adapter doesn’t even fit on which is odd. That’s currently the only mount I’ve got.

Maybe I just need to order the mounts from CRC or something to try the different options.

Or just buy the 180mm rotor!

Worth noting that the Park DAG 2.2 is no better than the lifeline or other generic equivalent.

The DAG 3 however is really good. You can stop all play in it, and it has the rotating guage arm instead of relying on o rings to keep the position.

Wordle 227 3/6

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Sorry for the hijack. What’s the goto alternative microspline cassette?

I’ve found the ztto ones on AliExpress for about £50. Anything better?

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Just found this game.

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changing from .googlemail.com to .gmail.com

They’re the same now. Whether you address it to gmail or googlemail it will work. Same as dots. If your email has dots. Remove them and it will still come through to you.

Wheels manufacturing do an angular contact bearing version which promises excellent longevity.

I’ve got it on my fearless with a hope crankset.

I think the chipped chainring could definitely cause the dropping chain. It sometimes doesn’t take much.

How does the clutch on the mech feel? If that’s on the way out it could cause issues.

Have you got the proper eagle jockey wheels with the narrow wide teeth? Is the chain all meshed properly with those teeth?

I’ve got an sworks carbon post on mine. Seems good! Very light!

Get in touch with CSG who distribute Cannondale. They may be able to source something?

I also ordered a surf at about 1400. Not had a dispatch email. Maybe they’re working through the standard one first!

NEW Shimano “Linkglide” Drivetrain Promises 300% Longer-Lasting Components

This suggests it’s a linear pull. So won’t work with normal Shimano shifters.

You haven’t put the sealant in yet and you’re wondering why it’s going down…?

I always make sure to get the seal airtight before adding sealant. If it’s leaking from a small hole in the tyre, that’s okay. But make sure the rim and bead is all good before the sealant going in as you can then adjust tape and valves without the sealant getting everywhere.

It’s just really tight. Flat screwdriver and some twisting under the clutch barrel can help.

Altra for very wide ‘barefoot’ fit. But with the cushioned thicker sole of a normal shoe.

Sorry to hijack, anyone know of something cheaper than the lovely but expensive simworks jobbies that will fit a 650bx2.25 gravel bike?

Starling do the effigear bike. Saw a video where the boss man said he preferred that over pinion as it has the indirect drive thing which allows the pivot to be centred on the drive chainring.

Try the specific freehub grease. Shimano do some and it’s a really thin sort of runny jelly. Should provide a quieter operation.

Someone did mention another brand on here a while ago. Dumonde Pro X which was well regarded.

PCS 10.3 stand £195 cheapest i’ve seen it in a while

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/park-tool-home-mechanic-deluxe-workstand-pcs10-3/rp-prod206798

Muc off 40% off sitewide

https://muc-off.com/

Ortlieb would be my first thought.

Watched it last night. Really enjoyed it. Not had anything to do with it before.

Only complaint is some of the dialogue is hard to hear. But I normally watch films with subtitles on 😂

Danbury common
Hadleigh park
Twisted oaks
Couple of very small jumpy style woods very close.

Then slightly further afield…
Viking trail
Epping forest
Thetford
Chicksands
Woburn

So there’s a few bits around. But it is far from a mtb Mecca! And none of it is steep or tech. Nearest steeper stuff is probably Surrey hills, Aston hill.

I put on squid game to watch while I was on zwift the other day. Ended up binging the rest. The dubbed voice acting is awful. But I really enjoyed it.

My Northwave Tribes are very wide. Especially in the toes. Which was surprising as I normally wear ‘barefoot’ shoes and find most normal shoes too narrow at the front. These are by far the roomiest toe box flat shoes ive tried.