Just one other thought.. it’s definitely a 12 speed shifter is it?

Sounds to me like you need to strip it off and start again.

It doesn’t sound like the crankset is the problem. The only reason to go for boost cranks is for chainstay clearance with the crank or chainring. Or tyre clearance with the chain.

Ive not fitted a garbaruk before. Are there any spacers that may have been put in the wrong place?

Take the mech off and check hanger alignment. With a proper tool. Not by eye.

Measure chain properly following shimanos measurements.

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Fit derailleur and thread chain, then join chain.

Adjust H limit screw so the chain is in line with 10t.

Then manually push the mech to the top while pedalling slowly to roughly find the lower screw position making sure it won’t jump the chain into the spokes when you shift with the cable. Attach cable (check above doc for cable routing) and shift upto the top of cassette. Fine tune L limit screw and then B tension using the line on the back of the derailleur cage.

Now finish tuning indexing with the barrel adjuster.

I’ve never had any issues following this method.

You’d likely be fine on the large. The reach numbers feel smaller than the charts suggest as the seat angle is steep and head angle very slack. I’m about 6ft on an XL Dave. Feels great.

I’ve got one of the XD drive 12speed sunrace cassettes and run it with a SRAM gx chain currently. No problems.

My XT buzzed when going really slow. I’ve since put a new one of those spider spacers in with the dip in grease that Shimano recommend and it’s now completely silent. It’s got a smidge more resistance than before. Maybe I over greased. But no noise!

Edit, This is the 12spd microspline hub.

We did it last weekend plus a few extra bits. My gravel bike has 2.2 ikons on. But smaller tyres would cope fine. There’s not many really sandy bits, the bit near the beginning (Thetford) past the pig field is the worst bit. In the wet the ruts would probably be pretty soggy. There’s a lot of ruts.

I’d probably go mtb for comfort as it’s very flat and pedally. Not many hills to roll down for a quick rest!

There’s a shop and chippy in castle acre about half way. You also go past a couple of churches for water bottle fill ups (can’t confirm if there were taps though as carried enough). Cafe by the lighthouse in old Hunstanton.
You go right past mcdons in Swaffham too.

If you need to park near to the start, Tesco in Thetford is on YourParkingSpace app. £6 for 3 days. 5k along a not too busy road to the route.

Funny I was watching a video on exactly this earlier today. It’s a motorbike based video. But it get the point across.

Chain too long?

Bootzipper

This is a pretty epic price for a frameset if small is the size!

Yes but have you checked the new hanger is straight? They often aren’t.

Short of that… Jockey wheels okay? All the pivots on the mech moving okay?

There should be a red spacer that goes onto the axle before the freehub. Possible that this was lost when the freehub was off??

One of these!

Original TRP parts from Upgrade bikes. They’re a distributor, but also sell straight to consumer.

However. I’ve always found Shimano pads to work best. The Spyres use the generic B01 pad as mentioned above. The TRP ones for me were louder and less good at stopping.

Basically every brake pad manufacturer make pads in that shape so give some other compounds a try.

As oceanskipper says. Sounds exactly like a blocked or kinked hose. Pull the hose out again and check the olive and barb. Make sure there’s no bits in the end etc.

Just to be clear…..

I believe mert means that you shouldn’t adjust the saddle position to account for reach. The saddle position is adjusted relative to your cranks to achieve happy pedalling dynamics. The reach is then set with the bar and stem.

Using the saddle to adjust reach can throw your pedalling off and add strain and or discomfort where it shouldn’t be.

The Topeak one is very good. What I use in the workshop.
The park one was always a bit too thick.

The new park one that looks like it’s got a bit of rotor on the end looks quite good though!

Not any sort of professional eye person, but if you get loads appear quickly or lots of white flashes. Get it looked at.

Just general floaters; just ignore them and you will notice it less and less.

Use dark mode where possible. Mine are most noticeable on white backgrounds.

It’s one of the main reasons I’ve started riding in trousers. Used to get them all the time when lived in N Wales. They were even in the garden.

We need to hire some opossums to come and eat them all.

The SRm website for your fork has the spec muddled up. But the slightly new A5 fork has a minimum rotor size of 160. Suggesting that the fork has 160 post mounts.

If you have a 180 rotor. You need this adapter. Click here CRC (the 160 to 180 version)

Your photo confirms this.

The specialized trail trousers are nice and light too!

They’re great aren’t they.. Made me realise how bad my shimanos are when I fitted them to my partner’s bikes. I want some now.

Merlin have some deals atm I think. Even more of you’ve got a loyalty discount with them.

The trail sport set is great value.

Worth pointing out that the magura rotors are thicker than standard. So get magura rotors too.

I am not a bike fitter. Just going on some advice I had…. Turning cleats to suit your foot angle is not the way to do things. A little, yes. But we’re talking 1 or 2 degrees. More than that is asking for trouble and will just transfer stress and strain to knees and hips.

Try some insole wedges to tilt your feet out a little. Think I used some 1 degree wedges. Made a load of difference.

Not as much difference as switching to minimalist / barefoot shoes mind (for general life, not cycling). My feet are almost straight now after a few years of wearing them without any targeted excercises.

Anyone spotted a torque setting for the rear sliding dropouts?

Can’t see one anywhere. Just thought I’d ask before emailing pipedream.

Got a mustard yellow arrive today. A few purple hope bits going on.

Will get a piccy up when it’s built.

Fanny pack

Try Specialized. I’ve got some Recon 3 mtb shoes and they have a very spacious toe box while still keeping a normal heel width.

Lake Wide make the whole foot wide which meant the heel slopped around for me.

Yep! Though from experience… Get stainless ones. 😅

The official ones have that little pin thing on the top to allow you to put a circlip through, but just use some blue threadlock.

The workshop I work in has a big 100l compressor. Some road tubeless tyres *cough giant pirelli cough* won’t even inflate with the compressor. The airshot will get them up pretty much everytime.

Most modern mtb tyres with wide rims will go up with just a track pump. Maxxis seem especially easy.

Did you buy it stock or did novyparts custom shim it for you? I notice on the website it says they do custom stuff.

Also, worth emailing in English or French?

Was it the B1 airshaft in those Yari RCs then?

Yep. The 2020 version from the previous PSA were B1 springs.

I’m very tempted to buy a yariup for mine. Not even ridden them yet but quite fancy an aftermarket damper.
I do like the ease of servicing on the open dampers which is what leans me towards the up rather than a charger.

So pleased with the price I got them for though. Even though I basically built a new bike around them.

I also bought some slik graphics for them.

Not so cheap after all 😂

Great price. I got the 2020 version for 265 in the last sale of them.

Spent an extra £40 buying the new updated C1 spring in 150mm.

Think these ones already have the C1 installed.

Double check the torque on the top caps. My creak was from a slightly too loose air side cap.

Silent after sorting that out.

Just bought a Tectal after trying so many different helmets, none of which fitted my xenomorph head.
This fits like it was made for me.

Interestingly I have a 59cm head, but the 55-58cm fits. So if they fit, they size a bit big.

picture sque

Shimano and Park recommend to change 12spd chains at 0.5%.
I know that’s coming from the manufacturer so they will want you to swap earlier. But seems to be worth doing to keep the cassette fresh, especially given there are so few available atm.

SRAM say to change the chain at 0.8%. But they also say to change the cassette at the same time. £££$$$

Expect VAT to be added on though

FWIW magura mounts come with bolts