Forum Replies Created

Viewing 40 posts - 121 through 160 (of 1,760 total)
  • Fresh Goods Friday 719: The Jewelled Skeleton Edition
  • chrisdw
    Free Member

    I won’t buy one without a hood. It ultimately doesn’t get noticed when riding and I’m glad I have it when I stop for snack or faffing in the carpark. Or just to wear as a normal jacket when not on the bike.

    chrisdw
    Free Member

    Yeah that’s the one. 2nd one down on the warlock page.

    warlock

    chrisdw
    Free Member

    I’ve got one built up with 650×2.2 ikons. a bar end shifter with gx 12 speed gears. Trp spyre cable brakes

    I might get some wider bars for it as I’m on 44cm Ritchey beacons atm.

    Great bike though. Love mine. I’ve got mine in bikepacking mode with a tumbleweed t rack on the back.

    chrisdw
    Free Member

    The original 1st gen eagle derailleurs that say 500% on them don’t support the 52t cassette.

    Whether they actually work or not. I’m not sure, never tried it. But officially, they don’t.

    chrisdw
    Free Member

    DO NOT DO THAT!

    Works great for me. Why wouldn’t it work? What problem does it create?

    In my mind and experience it moves the other bead out of the way of both the insert and the bead your working with.

    chrisdw
    Free Member

    Ive definitely seen maxxis tyres go wobbly after pulling them onto the rim too hard too.

    One thing i found to help was inflating and seating the tyre without the insert. then pop the bead off on one side only and get the insert in that way. it leaves a lot more space for you to shove the bead under the insert.

    Keep shoving the tyre under and working your way round multiple times it takes a bit of patience and a few goes round to get it in enough, but i did manage to get a 2.4 dhr2 onto a Hope fortus 30 without leavers. getting it off on the other had was a pain in the ****.

    This video helped for a bit of hand rolling technique too. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_8oz7YIk0gg

    chrisdw
    Free Member

    How many of us are on kero?

    That would be great! im in!

    chrisdw
    Free Member

    What about a pipdream sirius? much lower standover and sliding dropouts.\

    or this which is a bit of a bargain….. https://ridefarr.co.uk/products/farr-atb-frame-kit

    chrisdw
    Free Member

    Tesco Mobile don’t support WiFi calling

    chrisdw
    Free Member

    As above. Use Google. Type “site:singletrackworld.com ‘keywords'”

    Edit. Beaten to it

    chrisdw
    Free Member

    They seem to be back to Morvelo again – its very confusing

    Both exist. Overland do their gravel stuff. Morvelo do the Roadie stuff (with a few crossovers).

    chrisdw
    Free Member

    Ingrid
    5Dev
    EE wings are lovely. but i cant see them being worth 3x the cost of most other expensive cranks. unless youve got cash to burn.
    stay away from carbon. seen far too many break.

    As mentioned above. the Hope Evo cranks attach the same way as SRAM with a big 8mm allen key upto 50nm. aluminium preload collar. self extracting for removal. Really easy. My RX cranks have a very definite stop when they are tight.

    buying now. id go for middleburn. I love the slightly old school look of them.

    chrisdw
    Free Member

    Alpkit , Rapha , Arc’teryx etc etc ….A Huge part of the reason to buy is not the actual quality and design .Its the “validation” aspect . A chance to virtue signal a membership of an exclusive part of the Outdoor world !!

    Except, of those brand you mentioned, Alpkit has always been about function over form. They make decent reasonably priced gear making it more accessible. That’s why people buy their stuff.

    Rapha and Arcteryx are very from Alpkit. They focus very heavily on form and their image. From what I’ve heard its good gear, but cant afford it myself. I can afford Alpkit stuff and it works well for the cost. Doesn’t seem like its at all comparable.

    chrisdw
    Free Member

    They’ll only help if it’s compression fracture from landing on top of the head

    That’s not true. They are designed to restrict extreme movement of the helmet meaning your neck is less likely to move drastically out of its normal movement. They protect against impacts from lots of directions. But obviously they also restrict the movement of your head when you want to move which is a big reason not many wear them I would imagine.

    chrisdw
    Free Member

    https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/DBCL9999980/on-one-scandal-gx—medium—orange?gclid=CjwKCAjw9suYBhBIEiwA7iMhNDUa0NPCrM2Qthhx2cvd38Uppc6ALE-Sbk3zyB7cSywBnEFAHz7behoC5pgQAvD_BwE#DBCL9999980

    Or for new one…

    https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/CBOOSCGX/on-one-scandal-sram-gx-mountain-bike

    Hard to look past on one for the price considering the spec. Wheels are a bit heavy but sealed bearings and GX kit for that price is great.

    The hello Dave is a good bike, definitely shines on steeps though. It’s not the most exciting or the lightest for flatter pedally stuff. I’ve got one!

    chrisdw
    Free Member

    As others have mentioned. The tape needs to be just wider than the rim bed. The tyre beads need to sit on top of the tape, not next to it. Otherwise the only thing sealing the rim is the tape’s adhesive, which will fail. Personally I’d avoid gorilla tape too. It’s horrible to remove. Muc-off tape works great and is stickier and stretchier than Stan’s/tesa

    The valve hole can cause leaks. I always melt the hole round by poking a hot pick through it then twizzling around. This seems to seal much much better than a cut which can spread and again cause leaking. Obviously careful with carbon rims.

    The quality of the valve is another thing. The cheap basic valves with fixed rubber never work that well. The aftermarket valves with removable rubbers are so much better as the rubber is soft enough to squash meaning you can get a really good seal. For example muc-off valves have 3 different rubbers, but the thicker cone works with every rim I’ve tried. push down on the top of the valve to squash rubber and tighten up the collar. Worth investing in decent valves.

    chrisdw
    Free Member

    IME contaminated pads will never be good again. Might be okay for a little till the clean surface wears off. But they’ll always start squeaking again.

    Get some new pads in I reckon.

    chrisdw
    Free Member

    Graphite instinct solar for 149

    chrisdw
    Free Member

    Xiaomi Mi Car Charger, WCJ02ZM https://amzn.eu/2orp1ro

    I’ve got one of these. It works really well plus it has the novelty of sensors that automatically open the clamp as the phone gets near.

    It has a little mount that sticks onto the dash which I have always found is the best way of doing it as long as there’s space in your car.

    chrisdw
    Free Member

    As mentioned above. Try something with more sweep. SQLabs do the 30x bar with 12 or 16 degrees of backsweep.

    I’ve got a set of the alu 12 on order since trying a 9 degree deity bar which is much nicer than my renthals. Thought I’d give a 12 a go.

    chrisdw
    Free Member

    Thanks gryphon jersey and cypress gilet for £36!!!

    Ah that was you who bought those before i got a chance 😂

    chrisdw
    Free Member

    Re the hoses, the way shimano levers come the barb is in the lever so it’s just a case of snipping to length (have to cut the last inch off to remove the plug anyway I think?) and bolting up the compression nut.

    The olive is generally in the lever. The barb has to be installed into the hose after trimming using the yellow clamp block and a small hammer or a specific tool to push the barb in.

    There’s not a plug on Shimano hoses other than the black rubber cover.. sounds like you snipped the barb off and didn’t reinstall.

    chrisdw
    Free Member

    you cant order one to be delivered to the UK though. ok if you have a mate in the EU though

    There was a thread on here a while back suggesting you can if you email them.

    chrisdw
    Free Member

    I’ll be stopping on the way home! Thanks for the tip!

    chrisdw
    Free Member

    When you say you’ve played with the B tension. Have you used the appropriate tool (SRAM) / guideline on inside of cage (Shimano) to set it at sag? It really is that fussy.

    If it’s SRAM, is the chain meshing correctly with the narrow wide jockey wheel?

    If it’s all setup right I would be putting it down to chainring/chainline. Does it happen in all gears or just the extremes? 12 speed setups can introduce some pretty crazy chain angles which can cause noise when meshing with the narrow wide chainring.

    chrisdw
    Free Member

    alien

    chrisdw
    Free Member

    I’ve got a Genesis Day One in the shed that is waiting for some new bits. I’m heading down the tracklocross route with some knobblies and riser bars! Off road brakeless sounds entertaining.

    chrisdw
    Free Member

    @dirkpitt74

    Using the Halo GXC on there currently. They seem good. Not the most aggressive tread, but seem quite quick and setup tubeless fine.

    chrisdw
    Free Member

    650×47 fit fine.

    chrisdw
    Free Member

    I’d Definitely pick that with the Microshift over the more expensive Sora version.

    Good price. Enjoy!

    chrisdw
    Free Member

    £43.!!!!! For 1 callipers worth.!!!!!!

    They’re the fancy XTR spec ones. The normal finned ones are H03C.

    Just got for Aztec or Ashima without fins and save the £££. The fins do very little anyway.

    chrisdw
    Free Member

    You can modify an activity profile to show pretty much just the map.
    My 830 is set to show just the map on one page. Then a couple of basic metrics like time, distance elevation on the 2nd page. That’s it. They’re very customisable to what you want.

    I always use RWGPS. Just the free version does everything I need. There’s loads of routes available on there and it’s about the easiest website I’ve used for making your own routes. You can get the IQ app on the Garmin too which makes it really easy to transfer over the routes.

    RWGPS will reverse routes for you too. It gets a bit more complicated moving the start point of loops rather than point to point though. Unless anyone else knows an easy way of doing that?

    chrisdw
    Free Member

    Ask the manufacturer? Most bag manufacturers are pretty small so will take their own kit in to repair.

    Alpkit as mentioned above will repair any brand.

    chrisdw
    Free Member

    I’d say that’s probably about perfect.

    chrisdw
    Free Member

    As others have said. Melt the hole with a hot skewer or pick and push all the excess molten bits down so you have a completely flat surface. The x allows creasing and leakage I find. It can also tear further on the cuts.

    With the muc off valve. Stick a 4mm Allen key in the top to aid pushing down and compress the rubber. And tighten up the lock ring. The solid thicker cone rubber is the only one I use. It works with every rim I’ve tried so far. The others are a bit iffy.

    chrisdw
    Free Member

    Maybe have a look at Total War games.

    chrisdw
    Free Member

    From what I’ve heard the older one that take a 160 will also take a 203 (but not a 180) as that adapter moves the caliper forward enough to clear the seatstay.

    Using an adapter like this… https://www.uberbikecomponents.com/view-product/Uberbike-Post-to-Post-PM6-160mm-Direct-Mount-to-203mm-Disc-Brake-Adapter-Colour-Options

    chrisdw
    Free Member

    Hello Dave will take a 203 on the older model apparently with a 160 to 203 adapter. The newer version won’t work. They changed the brake mount from 160 to 180 and you can’t fit the brake in the gap now.

    The rotor fits fine. Just the annoying caliper placement.

Viewing 40 posts - 121 through 160 (of 1,760 total)