In most cases. Yes.
Many that I’ve done have an alu insert in the carbon which sits proud of the carbon. If not, park also make a diamond abrasive adaptor thing that attaches to their facing tool.

Check this video for some potential clearance issues with the tool to check against your frame.

https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/contact.aspx

There’s a phone number here.

Fustle Causeway. Evil Chamois Hagar

Regardless of what the Shimano manual says, I would always do a gravity bleed first. Doesn’t have to be much, but you do want to flush that dirt out of the caliper and bleed nipple first rather than push it further up into the system.

This is how the Shimano techs train their service centres to do it.

1. Gravity to flush out old fluid (don’t push this back up into system again).
2. Up from caliper with brand new fluid.
3. Final gravity bleed.

Even though that’s how I’ve been shown to do it, unless they’re near brand new brakes I always do the marshy method as lubricating the pistons is the best thing you can do to help avoid wandering bite.

The stanchions are different in dual position forks

Ah I didn’t realise that! Ignore my comment above about debonair then.

They’re quite old. Not sure what year, but they don’t make a dual position air spring anymore. It’s a simple change over to a debonair spring though I believe. I don’t think the dual position air was particularly well received, plus largely pointless with modern geometry.

The chassis and the charger damper will all be good kit though. The RCT3 isn’t as good as the more modern chargers, but it’s not far off and definitely better than the motion control in the yari.

Factor in a service as they may have been sitting on the shelf a while.

Anyone on Bulb heard anything about the £200 from them?

Pipedream Sirius. It’s slack. But is designed for 120mm

Well after going to a shop to buy some new boots yesterday the Salomon’s I tried were cavernous in terms of volume. Good length ways, but they had so much vertical space my foot was still slopping around. Didn’t fit me at all. And I’ve actually got quite high arches.

I ended up buying a set of K2 Maysis which seemed to suit my narrow heel and wide forefoot quite well. Would have preferred standard laces over boa. But they were by far the comfiest of the lot.

Pyg takes you down to Pen y Pass. It’s just rock steps. Don’t go down that way it’ll be horrible on a bike. The standard route is up Llanberis as lots of it is rideable. Then down Rangers and Telegraph Valley. Apparently telegraph valley has been resurfaced. And some parts of rangers were a few years back but it’s likely still the best way down.

The 8mm total of packing is a lot! What issue are you trying to solve with that? Is the boot too big? That could also be a cause of your pain as your foot tries to tense up to hold in place. Maybe a lower volume boot? Have you sized correctly to your mondo point size? I think I’ve read somewhere that Salomon are quite high volume but narrow. Never tried them myself.

Some brands use Intuition liners as stock. Thirtytwo are the first that spring to mind, but I think they’re quite high volume too.

The green pads are pretty sqeualy when it’s wet. Reds seem fine!

My Hello Dave with a 1345 wheelbase fits in a 591 fine. It did need the main attachment block shuffling along the bar slightly. But all fits fine.

There’s 3 out currently. They play on a Sunday evening I believe.

Yeah. the picture is terrible. But yes, it’s just a block with a slot that the disc fits snuggly into. Pretty simple, but does seem to work well. I wasn’t far off by eye. but its one of those things I like to know I’ve got it as good as possible.

I got one of these recently which does the job for centering the caliper. As long as you’ve got a straight rotor of course!

Caliper Alignment Tool for Hope E4, V4 Brakes

You can hear a small amount of contact in the stand with mine. Wheel completely free though, and don’t notice it riding.

My 19 year old example is still going strong.

I miss my 2003 one. Timing belt went and it went to the scrappy. It was a quirky thing, but really liked it. I’ve got some Amdro window shades in the garage somewhere going cheap if anyone needs them! #notsostealthad

Bit out of your triangle but Andy @ Dee valley workshop.

https://www.deevalleybicycleworkshop.co.uk/

Pipedream is another.

You don’t really need to adjust the rear end length just to run the smaller wheel in the back. If you found a frame you like without sliding dropouts, don’t let that put you off changing the wheel to get a more aggressive geometry. You’ll still get the slacker HA and lower BB which are the main geo changes you’ll be chasing with the mullet.

Middleburn?

MIDDLEBURN RS8 X-TYPE DUO SPIDER 104/64BCD

They do this spider… It says not boost but it’s a 50mm chainline which falls in line with what your after.

Edit. Just realised your chainring sizes. You looking for a 104bcd twin ring? Also realised I linked the mono one before.

Generally I find the more complex the image, the easier and more enjoyable it is as a puzzle. We’ve got one that’s just a grid of loads of different pictures of bikes which was fun. Much easier to find associated pieces. I hate the ones that have big patches of the same colour.

https://www.ravensburger.us/products/jigsaw-puzzles/adult-puzzles/99-bicycles-16007/index.html

Doesn’t work for maguras because of the design of the caliper. But for hope and Shimano check out the r3pro 3d printed caliper align tool. Just a square block of the right thickness with a slot for the rotor, but it works really well and removes the guess work. Any adjustment can then be done with the pistons rather then setting the caliper wonky.

My Wheels Manufacturing 30mm BSA BB came with a sleeve. But it fouled the spindle on my hope cranks so i took it out.

Metal top cap on top. Steel bolt with greased threads cranked down till the centre pops out then prise the two plates out with a screwdriver.

Whenever they get smeary. Bosch from eurocar parts.

Current ones have been on almost 3 years I think

Just go on amazon and search for barefoot shoes. Whitin are the first brand that spring to mind.

If they’re only for occasional use, doesn’t matter if they’re a cheapy pair.

Cornish Distillery Company

Another vote for this. Their Morvenna is lovely.

Is there much difference between E4 & V4

I’ve not ridden either yet, but have got some E4s on the way. I chose E4 because I’ve seen numerous reports that although the overall power on the V4 is higher, the lever feel on the E4 is a bit firmer and has a closer bite point.

I guess it’s down to the bigger pistons and the larger gap?

Is your helmet light too bright? If its brighter or very spotty it can wash out the very useful shadows cast by your bar light.

It’s quite interesting… Take a light outside and hold it above your head. Then move it down to your chest and you’ll be able to see the shadows of objects appear which give you the depth.

If you want to know more, have a listen to the nightriding episode of Downtime Podcast with Tom Place.

Car diesel technology has moved on quite a bit since the 90s, and even then they still needed 12v to keep the stop solenoid open.

Fair enough. I was basing that on 2008 ish 1.7 astra which happily ran as long as you want on a bump start when the alternator died. Pretty sure that engine came out a tractor or something though 🤣

Is it diesel? If so it will run without constant power. So sounds very much like the alternator as the engine was running, but no accessories.

They don’t pay for it. They’re franchises.

Not the case in all the Rutland stores they just bought though 🙄

Brother Stroma
Fairlight Strael

Ritchey are in the process of starting distribution with ZyroFisher. So might be able to get something at some point, not seen any lead times for frames though! Maybe Woods Cyclery can help with that. They do a lot of Ritchey.

As you’ve not went for a hyperglide chain, you’ve lost the hyperglide features of the cassette such as the ability to shift under load.

Should be fine on 11 speed. It’s only really the 12 speed with the HG+ that makes a difference. And even then, I don’t notice any real difference between a kmcx12 and an XT chain.

I reckon it’s a chainline thing here.. the combination of narrower chainline on the cranks with the MTB cassette just causes it to catch slightly. You’d probably find a Shimano chain does the same. Try a SRAM chain maybe? They can run differently sometimes.

But if it doesn’t do anything pedalling forwards. Just ignore.

Dhr2 front and rear.
Or stick an Assegai in the front.
Exo+ casing with maxxterra rubber would be my preference

There’s a reason they’re so popular.

Here you go…

Check the comments for a few more suggestions

Cycling-Friendly Flannels: 8 of our Favorite Button-Downs

Have a look through Keychron site.

They are well reviewed and many of the newer models are hot swappable.

Also there’s a subreddit r/MechanicalKeyboardsUK which has a list of UK suppliers and good models. Plus lots of posts asking for recommendations.

If you really get into it, it’s a deep and expensive road!!

I’ve got a Ducky Mecha Mini 60%. Not hot swappable though.

Silts get very good reviews from what I hear. I know someone with the Scribe gravel wheels and reviews them well. The hubs are probably about the loudest I’ve ever heard though, not buzzy, just very loud.

Unless its changed since i last played. The imposter gets chosen randomly among the party who then has to fool the rest of the crew that they are also just a crewmember.

If you’re a Large…

Superflux Jacket [ME-005768_SAMPLE]

Paramo Torres is a nice warm jacket too.