Love mine great power, been using superstar Kevlar pads and are the only thing I’ve never upgraded on my new build!!!

Sorry but what’s ygm?

Hey hora, e mail me

I like the cinnamon tree Indian in heald green, nearest village to Manchester airport, 10/15 min walk or £5 in a cab

+1 for invisiframe
Just fitted a kit this weekend, fantastic quality and well made.

So is the 2.4 RQBC ust duel ply or the same as my 2.2 tyres? Does apex mean duel ply or is apex some thing else???
Anyone know anyone with any in stock everywhere out side of German doesn’t have any???
Thanks guys

No issues re petrol if its the 16v engine but still prefer the 1.6 diesel but if your doing low milage or constant city driving its probably the smarter move.

The older 90/110bhp engines no turbo issues at all the later 130> 160bhp engines have an electronic turbo position sensor that goes wrong (very rarely ) but it can be changed without engine or turbo removal, strictly it’s not a turbo issue it’s a sensor bolted to it but that’s about it. But the later larger bhp engines were never fitted to berlingos.

Yes, if you smelt burning you have def shortened the life of the clutch but it should be ok!!! If the car is under 10 years old it will probably have a self adjusting hydro clutch, so you or the GF shouldn’t feel any difference.
But defo be the nice guy and chip in some £££ when it does go.

Hora, I’m genuinely surprised at your comments, I’m a member if mmb, but probably only ride with them 3 times a year.
Any group promoting our sport must be a good thing.

Cutsngrazes: I’ve just e mailed you.

Regards the volume reducer if I remember correctly you can by a kit with three different sizes to interchange, my opinion would be try that your self before sending away, I was told that you should bottom out your forks and shock on a half decent trail/jump/drop and if that’s not happening its got too much air in it I run my 150mm for at 30% sag and my shock at About 15% (zesty frame gauge) and genuinely really like it.

I’ve got an rp23 kashima XV boost valve shock on my 2011 zesty TBH it didn’t make a huge difference to the stock rp2
The pro pedal on the rp2 was fantastic on the rp23 im never even sure it works!!!
I had a volume reducer but in and it improved the blowing through the travel issue, I now run it at 175psi and I’m 13 1/2st in old money. The low friction bushes made massively more improvement.

I rode there last Saturday, not bad, couple of different descents, only short but worth doing 5/6 times if local or as most do include into a big ride from rivington pike.

Macc terrible terrible joke.

Hora really???

Fiat engine

Genuinely made me smile!!! Amazing news
Have a few beers and relax

Hora is spot on most manufacturers are recommending petrols for low mileage drivers due to some customers destroying £1000 particle filters in 2000 miles

Trying to summarise, what macc said is correct, the removal of the sump and gauze replacement is a 2 hour job on your back with out any major engine stripping just the sump. The 2.0 hdi is a great very long lasting engine but getting old now and is way to heavy for modern cars any wont go near euro 5 emissions that dv6 engines are now running.

Forgot a very important part!!! The turbo oil feed pipe also has a tiny gauze that starves the turbo when blocked.
Change it also. You will be suprised how blocked both are and no matter how many oil changes you do it won’t unblock them. If the engine has a poor service record oil change/oil flush a few times before changing the x2 gauze and the oil filter to attempt to remove the sh## before fitting the new parts.
Will now last for ever promise!!!

If the turbo is ok when you bought it I.e no noise or play in the turbo impeller , then run engine till full temp (cooling fans) drain oil and remove filter ( leave draining for 20mins ) remove sump and replace the oil pump gauze and rebuild and replace with full synth 5/40 and change ever 10k I’ve never had to replace a turbo/engine if maintained correctly or mantainace done before turbo damage. My mrs car has 70k and she drives it like its stolen. And i service one today with 160k and no issues.

One of the best I’ve been to really good

There is a seal at the steering pinion valve but if its leaking out of the ends of rack then it’s a new rack, are you 100% it’s the rack the pipes to the rack are very common for leaking.
The main rubber to metal hydro pipes.

Yes guilty !!! Do you remember yanic / marko all the old tech support?

Good old days!!! I did all my consultant tech training there.
Huge changes and cuts for obvious reasons now.
If you got out with a good pay out it was a smart move.

Above is correct and yes I work in the network.

As above have said Cuk are very strict on service intervals. But I’ve never replaced a dv6 for this fault but a new genuine turbo/pipes and the oil pump filter/gauze is very important and as Micheal said a huge amount of cleaning/flushing and oil pressure tests to confirm the repair.
I’ve seen new turbos die in 500 miles if this isn’t done.
The engine is one of the bests on the market but most done get an oil level check between services that IMO cause the already small amount of oil 3.5L to become dirty and block the oil pump filter ( not the oil filter ) and the turbo dies soon after.
Best of luck anyway

I rode whinlatter yesterday, 4/5 inches of snow on upper levels even unridable in places due to sheet ice under snow but enjoyed it hugely and had a good laugh as we all fell off loads. I could have this the wrong way round but south side was much better than north side condition wise.

I really fancy a covert but read a few reviews that said they had frame flex issues unless you got the carbon one ?
Any actual real world experiences ?
They look the dogs !!!

Amazing pal , sounds like you did a proper job at being a dad
Me and my dad were as close as you and your son are. Not many like you out there, you should be very proud of your self.

Gets lots of negative comments on here due to very man made smooth trails , but at speed it’s fun !!! As above don’t compare black to antur stiniog / Scottish trail centres but defo session the jumps and drops area to the left of the first climb. But when the weathers bad its my fav local centre due to great trail drainage and maintenance.
May see you there tomorrow !!!

The bike I bought from then was scratched and had no air in the forks or shock , went back once , complained was fobbed off about ” new shocks leaking air ” never been back since . The sales guys were decent but the ” punk mechanic guy ” was a complete arse !!! This was 2009 hopefully he’s no longer there .

Just looked at my well used 2011 zesty one small 2mm crack in the paint in that area , just had a pal with a 514 2012 crack the rear triangle and he got a 2013 714 warrenty replacement so hopefully you will get the same great after service. Good look .

As above , after market cats 99% don’t pass !!! It’s a joke that the faulty cat is worth £50 and I can buy a new ” after market ” unit at trade for £60+ vat .
I’ve sent so many customers back to quick fit for a second and third cat due to failures and in the end quick fit does the mot for free and suprise suprise it passes !!!
Cheap non gen cats never pass unless the garage that fits it ” makes ” it pass obviously its in there interest to let it idle through the emissions test rather than 3000 rpm .

Is this the one I’ve read about , press fit lapierre zesty size ?

Wasn’t worried at all but thanks to most of you now a little stressed about the op !!!
Hopefully all goes well !!!

As per my previous post IF its a PSA dw8 engine , it’s doesn’t have a tank/lift pump and is old school low pressure diesel injectors , 90psi if I remember right ?
But your safe to ” crack ” an injector to bleed and or check for the diesel pump producing fuel , as per my previous post I strongly suspect the fuel solenoid is faulty .

If its the dw8 1.9 non turbo citroen/Peugeot engine the 2 most common faults are fuel cut off valve goes faulty , but due to it being the vehicles immobiliser the part isn’t changeable without removing the fuel pump and drilling out and changing the whole unit . The part is very expensive also . There is a way round it but its not the ” right ” way , the second most common is the throttle body shaft wear causing fuel leak from the shaft and airlocks and cutting out , this is far less common and easy to I.d by looking for play / leaks etc .
Good luck .

Be careful of non gen turbos , not the quality of the rebuild or the unit , BUT when you try and claim they will ask for invoices , detailed with parts and labour for oil changes at 500/1500/3000 miles !!! And I’ve never had a customer make a successful claim !!! They always end up having to buy another .