6’1″ – 31″ inside leg, 18″ C456 – nice long top tube and no probs with standover, even with 150mm Revs.

Chris

Muc-Off C3 – best lube I ever found.

Nothing on my reverb, no probs after 13 months of getting it carked.

I’ve got a Nerve AM in the black “stealth” colour. I helitaped all the usual bits (top tube, sides of the down tube, rear chain stays etc) as soon as I got it and I can honestly say not a thing has gone wrong with the frame, I’m no lightweight and I give it some hammer down hill (as revenge for the pain of getting up there). My brakes didn’t need bleeding, my Reverb hasn’t missed a beat, everything else has been fine.

Had it 13 months now and just got round to getting the forks serviced and I’ve hot my first problem…the headset is weird. However a quick search on here and use of the Cane Creek headset finder and I now have a ZS44 top race and IS52/40 bottom bearing on their way.

The only significant mod I have made is to replace the air shock with a VanRC. I’m afraid Canyon order their shocks with lightweights in mind. Any one over 12 stone will need to consider re-valving, volume reducing or replacement imho. Otherwise you’ll be running the thing with 300psi in and still wondering why it’s bottoming out.

Even the rear bearings in the suspension are all 100% still.

Chris

Shifters are much nicer.

I just swapped from Avid Elixir 7’s to M785 XT brakes and they are superior in every way imho.

Mind you, I’d have to say that wouldn’t I?

Chris

PS. It’s true!

If you are hammering downhill and are a total FB then you could loosen your nipple nuts.

In that case loctite blue can help.

I bought a pair of superstar AM wheels and couldn’t keep them tight so used loctite and not had a problem since.

Chris

If you are looking for an excuse to upgrade I’d say whichever is the most expensive is the stiffest.

Mojo just did my friends brand new shock for £36, he is very happy.

There can be a lot of standing water when it’s raining, overshoes, rear mudguard / waterproof shorts could be useful.

140 Floats. RL Open Bath. Tapered 190mm steerer. £240?

Yep, me.

Use Parcel2go and avoid shittylink.

Mr Doughnut we really need to sort out this flu – have you taken any proper drugs or just pussying about with Lemsip?

Brant – thanks – I am using the shim, I will see if the lip is impacting on the post.

Chris

What about Loctite?

Hey doughnut no probs! The theft thing was a bit ott – on my part lol!

I have a friend with a lathe and I think I’ll get an external sleeve that can sit between the reverb collar and the top of the seat tube.

Who knows, the carbon paste and San Miguel tin might work before then.

Unless anyone can knock up a 33.2mm double bolt clamp?

Chris

Crikey!

Never been on the receiving end on here before… That’s me in my place!

Tantrum…hmm – not sure about that but I can see how you might reach that conclusion.

As for R&D and suspicion of theft I think I may actually resent that one Billy-bollocks-boy. You can post your apology whenever you like 🙂

Chris

bikediscount.de

Have you popped the end caps off the rear axle and regreased them? That can often be the source.

My Nerve came with a Reverb as standard. When I built my Ragley there was never any doubt in my mind that I wouldn’t fit a dropper. Tbh the hard tail now gets more use than the susser and the reverb is just spot on.

Ugly? I don’t think so, all I know is that there is no way back, every MTB I ever own will have a dropper, there is no looking back!

Chris

I think the main upgrade for a Nerve AM is to junk the standard air shock and get something decent with a coil. Makes all the difference.

Fwiw I’m a fat b*****d and the 32 Talas work fine for me.

Chris

No more chain slap and chain devices are now redundant…..

😉

All a bit annoying really as everything else about the frame is brilliant.

So the newer frame basically solved the known problem but the old BPX is still being sold and is effectively not fit for the purpose it was intended? I.e. provide a wider seat tube so a dropper can be fitted.

Think I’ll be asking for my money back.

Any one want to buy a Ragley frame ?

🙁

Cheers for that . When I used a Thomson clamp I found that it was reaching its limit of tightening before I could stop the slippage.

I’ve resorted to a beer tin shim just now, I’ll see if that does the job. Off out this afternoon I’ll report back lol.

It’s a great bike to ride love it. I have 140 floats on and it just does everything I want it to. The full suss isn’t getting much of a look in tbh.

I’m using the shim and I thought about the double clamp,but the shim won’t be long enough.

The other idea I had was to make a shim the right length to fit out side the reverb so it butts up to the seat tube and the reverb collar.

Any other thoughts?

Just tried the Maxxis Beaver 2.0 today, very good grip and clearance. Very happy.

Apply Muc-Off while bike still muddy.

Use hosepipe and brush to wash off the bike.

Damp cloth to take the final dirt off

Polish

Polish some more

Use tooth pick to get wee bits out of nooks and crannies

Lube chain

Spray suspension with silicon

Wipe down

Set brakes

Check indexing

Go to bed.

bikediscount.de for cheap Schwalbes

What a set of dry breads! If she did that on the Ilkley line we’d be partying!

I’ve got HDs on my hard and soft tails. I have had no problem with the sidewalls and I’m no lightweight…!

In terms of grip and wear then they work fine, the harder pacestar compound is the one to go for.

Brilliant tyres and going cheep on bikediscount.de (well, compared with UK prices)…

Chris 🙂

I have a Canon S95 and it is fantastic, I can only imagine how the S110 must perform!

Chris

And they run narrow, the “Mega” versions are designed for the wider foot.

I tried a Thomson clamp but it had insufficient clearance to fully tighten up; hence the Hope.

Now fitted with carbon paste. I shall let you know!

C

56 minutes? Jeez, I need to get some miles in….:(

Sidi Dominator Mega are wide, as are the Bontrager shoes.

Most others seem to be made for people with mackerel feet.. or Italian.

Weell, the OP is not one for reading the instructions on anything!

Thanks for the advice, I will remove the grease forthwith.

Chris

Think I might just swap it out and sell the Reverb.

Yeah, shim is on the outside and I’m using a Hope non QR clamp.

What about some sort of thread lock/carbon fixing compound instead of grease?

Sure am not keen on crushing the reverb and no mistake.