Just got back.

5.5 hours or thereabouts on a muddy mtb keeping the hr under 150. Great fun… seriously!

Nice and easy, felt like I could have done another 4 hours at the end.

See how I feel tomorrow; was giving it some thought and I think it might be the 2 four hour rides back to back last weekend, not as low hr as they should have been with a few race sprints against mates. Then did hiit on Tuesday has left me knackered for the rest of the week.

I’m going to carry on for now.

Oh and yes I’m training for endurance at the minute. Fred Whitton

Thanks for the input gents.

In answer to a few questions-

Yes my hiit is based on ftp.

Few one hour hiit should he read as 2. Sorry if this wasn’t clear. I did three on one week when I didn’t do the night ride hence the “few”.

Yep I’m aware of the easy and hard stuff, have read a lot of Matt Fitzgerald books. 80/20 running is basically him repeating the same thing for 200 pages phrased the same. Go easy 80% hard 20% don’t do anything in zone 3.

Saying that I don’t think I’ve put it into practice very well. I think I’m probably doing alot of my easy work a bit too hard.

I’m off out in a min. Going to do 4 hours but religiously between 140 and 150bpm

Can you use the hope 10-48 with an 11speed xtr mech?

This guy needs to have Ronnie Pickering pull out on him. I’d pay good money to see That!

Morzine braking bumps do get progressively worse through the summer season.

Having been a few times I’d personally recommend elsewhere for a 12 year old on a hardtail.

Cheers guys for a couple from triton

Yeh that bit doesn’t read how it was intended. I was basically saying I’m not Chris Hoy, so snapping a chain 2 rides in is new to me.

CRB have sent me a new chain out FOC, I always get first rate customer service from those guys. Happy with that.

I’m trying to find some decent aftermarket jockey wheels… Anyone got any suggestions. There’s one polish company doing some.

I get your point, although drying chains and relubing them without it in my experience results in rusty chains. It’s a water dispersant and I use it as such.

I don’t just use the gt85, I use that after washing to disperse the water. Then re-lube.

I can’t see the gt85 filled the jockey wheels with mud, and it’s not repeated use of it. it was one ride and one wash.

Interesting another person above has had the same issue with their jockey wheels.

Anyone found any decent aftermarket 12t/14t narrow wide jockey wheels?

Anyone pressed them out and fitted better ones?

“Spoke to my LBS and they’ve had zero problems with GX Eagle customers. Maybe you just have too much power?”

Not sure how that fills jockey wheels with mud. The chain I’m putting down to a freak incident.

Same weight over a wider contact patch = less pressure so you sit on top

When there is slippy stuff involved if you can dig into it then it doesn’t give as easily: hence mud tyres are designed narrow i.e maxxis beaver is 2.0 etc

Sounds awesome Terry, well done! I’m working on endurance for the Fred Whitton at the min, no idea what ftp is but I’m down to 80.5kg. Not 100% back to where I was before I broke my elbow but it is getting there. Not sure when I’m going to test again, prob 8 weeks from now as my training plan hasn’t got space for a random test; it’s a very specific plan

Sounds awesome Terry. I’m working on endurance for the Fred Whitton at the min, no idea what ftp is but I’m down to 80.5kg. Not 100% back to where I was before I broke my elbow but it is getting there. Not sure when I’m going to test again, prob 8 weeks from now as my training plan hasn’t got space for a random test; it’s a very specific plan

Similar but I have 14 salbutamol inhalers with me. 1 per lap. Have to be careful not to go over the UCI limit though.

“Wrong headset cup bearing, fork doesn’t fit the standard 15×100 hub even though it’s very standard, even for specialized…

Call me a pessimist but thisdoesn’t sound like a standards rant (especially if they came from the same seller) I’m thinking it’s been damaged, headset cup flared slightly fork bent.
”
Nope, the headset bearing is very very close. 51.8 angle bearing compared to 52mm… I think the previous owner had probably ran the wrong one for years. they told me it needed changing and I just ordered the one that was in there. Having read the Niner Encyclopedia it needs a 52mm ideally.

The wheels came from a different seller and googling the problem it is well documented. Roval and Niner need a spacer making up to make them work. I posted about it on here and I’m not the first person to experience it. It’s to do with a wide and high flange on the hub and a bulge in the fork leg.

Last ride hit 34mph according to garmin, pedalling out with a 39 ring (2x) against some friends. That was on the previous bike.

How much more flimsy is the liteskin Ralph vs the Snakeskin?

“Why would you need a higher gear than 34t / 10t unless you are doing a lot of tarmac riding”

Because I regularly average 15mph on my xc rides. This is an out and out fast bike, with a rigid fork. I’ve got a “big bike” for slower sharper peak district type stuff

“Think you need to change your display name ”

It’s ironic!!!

Ignore me. Found some at crc, I’d got the offset measurement the wrong way around. Thought they were all boost.

Oops, apologies I missed that. thought it was just a flippant reponse.

Thanks

Thanks for the replies.

It’s not the hub caps, it’s the fact they use a piddly 6704 bearing in the front that lasts about 5 rides.

Thanks for the tape measure comment from above, clearly the fact I’m changeing the hub to a different type was lost on you.

Hatter I’ll be in touch.

Submarined.. Thanks for the link.

How do you get an 11-36 out back on a road bike?

I’d like to do that and leave my current chainset on if possible.

11 speed 105 shifter.

I’m on SERIOUS diet over the next few months. Hoping to drop 1kg per week for about 10 weeks. I’m not the best in the hills due to a past history of bodybuilding and still carrying some mass. i’m desperate to do 8 hours though, got family who have done it every year and not broken 8 hours so want to get the family record!

What gearing are you guys running? I’m on a 50/39 with an 11-28 at the minute.

I’m thinking of either fitting a triple (and wearing a mask so I’m not seen), or banging one of the new 11-34 ultegra mech and cassettes on.

What times are people aiming for?

I’d really like sub 8 hours chip time personally.

I’m in too. Woooh! Anyone got a gpx of the two 100km loops so I can get a feel for the climbs. I’m turning up trying to get as good a time as I can on the day so having ridden the passes before hand would be a mega bonus.

I was wandering if the bearings are replaceable?

Think I might pack mine with marine grease before I fit them.

Are the KA engineering ones on bushes or bearings?

Rich isn’t about money, you only live once, enjoy your time here!

It is when the op says ‘most money’.

So does society. You keep listening to them son ;-)

I have a loving wife who I trust 100% and a wonderful daughter. We have a holiday planned altogether and I also have a biking holiday to Morzine planned with some friends, of which my wife 100% supports.

I get 13 weeks off a year and every weekend.

I have a roof over my head and if I chose to I could eat steak everyday (I don’t due to health reasons and liking other things to eat).

Being warm, fed, with something to look forward to and a happy home life make me rich I think, or I at least appreciate those things.

I could easily gain a promotion at work and get paid more but would also have to work more. The fact I’ve chosen not to as I appreciate the above things makes me feel wealthier than the people I see doing the job above mine and living at work.

Rich isn’t about money, you only live once, enjoy your time here!

What kilo said, rollers have some resistance, enough for steady state stuff, maybe 400-500W

Lol I can’t push 500 watts for more then about 3 minutes and my ftp is a respectable 330w.

More like about 60-100 from rollers

That’s great. Mind if I ask what size spacer you went for in the end? I’ve turned a 3mm one and it’s a tiny bit big. Going to go for 2.5mm. Doubt I’ll get this one in the chuck to take 0.5mm off it

i wouldnt add a spacer as it will try to bend the forks. This will make the bushings rub and will cause wear issues.

Award for the guy who didn’t read the thread properly goes to…

The forks already have a 3mm gap fella and they are rigid forks

You can see how far the flange is out compared to a normal style hub.

I think they tried to get the flanges further apart and when combined with the step in bulge of a rigid niner fork it’s just not enough clearance.

The fact there is a 3mm gap is almost a saving grace in that I can pack it to allow this to work.

Thanks for all the input folks!

No the niner fork is non boost

I also have Roval wheels that I run in niner forks and have the same issue. I just installed a washer on the disc side and all has been fine. Ridden the Dirty River twice and haven’t had any issues. I also carry a spare washer just in case.

That’s interesting, I’ve got the issue on the non disc side. Disc side has clearance and disc sits in the right place.

My KS one does. Think the bushings must tighten up a bit as they contract. the pressurised air will contract more than ambient too meaning the spring isn’t pushing as hard. Relative pressure.

Thanks, I guess what I’m really asking is…

Does having a 3mm spacer that isn’t actually part of the hub end cap affect performcance.

For example if I was to take a Hope pro11 and cut 3mm off the end of the end cap, but then include that when putting it all on the axle, how would the hub perform compared to if it had been attached.

It’s about 3mm.but that gap is pretty much horizontal. No amount of flex is going to mean the flange moves 3mm laterally. A rim yes, a hub flange no.