You can remove them and carefully prise seals- pack with marine grease. Be careful when you do this, they are directional and also the little washers are all different.

I bought some expensive ones from KA Engineering and bent them- well annoyed as they were £60!

Went back to the standard ones.

Where can you buy garabuk in the UK?

I thought they were about £200 for a cassette. I ordered an Eagle groupset (boost gxp) for £280 from CRC yesterday – they are £290 but I used the BC tenner- for me having a complete new set up for that cost is a no brainer. I’ll probably sell the cranks though and buy a used carbon x0 one from eBay but pinch the boost ring that came with the set up.

No. Gxp hence the bargain price

Weight. Nx cassette is getting on for 700g iirc!

Just re-bled it and found I’d not sealed the strain relief connection at the seatpost end properly when I’d cut the hose (had to replace the connectamajig with the shorter strain relief to get a 170 drop in my frame).

All bled up and it’s absolutely rapid now despite it being cold.

Cheers for the input folks.

I’m well impressed with the rockshox bleed kit with the integrated port are the guide brakes as easy to bleed?

When is someone going to bring a wide range cassette out that’s a reasonable cost and doesn’t weigh 500g+

I think that would be the tipping point for it being the best option for 99% of bikes.

I’ve just cancelled a tyre order.

Thread hijack…

I’ve got a 2.4wt DHR11 coming- was thinking of putting it on the front with an aggressor out back- question is do I go 2.3 or 2.5wt for the aggressor?

Is the 2.5wt aggressor bigger than a 2.4wt DHR11?

Cheers all. I’ll bleed it again tonight.

I need to give mine another bleed then. It’s slow enough I’ve started this thread lol.

Shame I can post a video

Yeh it’s on fast

I’ve paid extra for the 1x lever… I’m not putting a conversion on it lol

You got a heart rate monitor?

I’ve never done one but I’d personally start with an 80/20 training approach. High volume with 80% in zone 2. 20% hard intervals etc. Then on race day is be at top end of zone 2 for 24 hours (or as much of it as you ride).

I’ve never done one though, that’s a Joe Friel/Matt Fitzgerald type approach.

Doesn’t help their product looked like something off of the 90s. I’m not trying to be harsh… genuine observation. Can’t see how anything high end can he viable unless it’s pretty.

I don’t get what all the hype was about. Reminds me of those terrible Raleigh special product titanium bikes with the bonded tubes.

Cheers for input all,

Managed to pick up a pair of Maxxis DHF front WT 3c exo and DHR WT dual ply for £67 by doing two separate transactions and using TREDZ vouchers. I can stomach the extra £7 for those.

Be interesting to see how the WT mates up with 25mm rims (ex471)

Happy days!

Just found tredz have a load of deals on Maxxis 3c tyres in WT flavour- anyone used them WT tyres on 25mm rims?

I’ve got 2 Tredz vouchers and will make them very competitively priced!

Going on 25mm I.D so bang on!

I’m guessing they are heavy?

Whats a good rolling specialized tyre to pair it with for the back? I don’t like mixing brands of tyres- logos look tacky when they are different.

Thanks for that link,

How do the butcher grids size up at 2.6 compared to Maxxis 2.5 and Schwalbe 2.35?

Cheers for input so far.

I was considering dropping the dampf on the back and just buying a Mary, but the Dampf is a soft one and will drag bad on the rear I reckon.

Price is a big factor here- thanks for the budget suggestions so far.

How do the 2.3 Maxxis size up against the 2.35 schwalbes?

Evans have 2.3s on offer at the min and I get an extra 10% off with BC discount.

I’ve read elsewhere it’ll actually work with an 11speed chain. Anyone on here tried it?

Can I hijack this-

Been looking at some SRAMM carbon cranks and the non-boost ones can be had at significant savings.

Am I right in thinking the arms are identical and you could just buy the non-boost cranks heavily discounted and fit a boost chainring and they will be identical?

I’d get one of the kits with the proper end caps that does require a dish- that way you’ve got proper boost chainline and no spacers to fall out when fixing a puncture on the side of a trail (even tubeless systems fail sometimes).

A re-dish as above would be about £15.

Get the kit, fit the end caps and rotor spacers and then take the wheel for a re-dish.

Thanks for that,

Is the “strain relief” one even shorter?

It’s in the classifieds on here matey.

£1200 full build or I’ll do it as a frame with 170mm dropper and headset for £475.

Medium in the metalic black colour whatever it was called.

Excuse the photo in the classifieds, needs a clean before photoing really.

Went with 3 boxes of 296 and a box of 298. Gives options

Thanks all for input into this

Vinvie and simon, cheers for time with the calculators!

Thanks again.

Will rounding 0.7mm down really matter?
The other option will mean rounding up 1.3mm And 1.1mm on the same wheel… Would that have a chance of running out of spoke thread?

It’s the difference between buying 3 boxes of 296 or 3 boxes of 296 and 1 box of 298 so only a tenner.

Not 100% it will be a brodge though?

Anyone well experienced in building wheels know?

I’ve done a fair few pairs before so confident in the actual process. Just not speccing the kit.

Thanks again guys. Much appreciated.

Any experienced builders… could I get away with 296 all round?

Also where’s best in the UK to buy/order double butted black spokes?

Cheers guys. Appreciate your time.

I must have screwed up as you agree with each other. Thats saved me a headache!

Dya reckon I can get away with buying a box of 295 and 296 and rounding the 296.7 down?

Will save buying three sizes that way!

And yes j bend boost

Hmmmnnn.

I got 295 297 front

297 296 rear.

Did you have it on 28h?

Thank you- need to see who’s got it right?

I had this once under a full Sprint.

I put it down to me being MEGA (I am of course joking).

But Yeh, I’ve had it. Flimsy things

No porridge following a morning commute is a really good part of your diet. Look at other areas.

Yeh so the Yeti went. Rode the Solaris and decided it wasn’t gonna cut it as a do everything bike. So went to buy the new yeti (that was cracked), now ordered an evil.

I’ll tell you the full story over Jaegerbombs fella (in joke folks sorry).

Ordered an Offering. It’s what the heart wanted. Wallet hurts.

Cheers for input all

I wear size 9 shoes in work wear and REALLY get on well with the UK size 10 northwave winter boots with thick socks.

I’ve got a road and a mountain pair both in 10s and very happy with them with my size 9 feet.

Hope that helps

Transition1. Afraid not, I’m 5ft11

Yeh he was the second owner.

I’m going back to the Evil Offering frame plan and pinching all the bits off my Solaris Max.

Anyone want a a Solaris max frame?

#stealthadvert

Nope removed off eBay.

Genuinely didn’t realise it was there.

Felt for the guy, he was gutted as he had gone from having basically sold his bike to help fund a new SB150 to oh crap my frames cracked.

I’m being generous… it was cracked 99% sure.

Lol @Sarawak. Nice troll account.

Try proving to eBay you didn’t crack it in the first ride.

Also it was collection only anyway.

Oh damn I’ve risen to your negativity. Have a nice day