I’ll check all of that cheers guys.

That’s annoying, my last reverb was faultless for 3 years. Expected better for over £300

Ive heard that. Strange thing is it worked fine for the first two rides now it’s sticking..

I have no idea, will have a look. What’s recommended?

Before spanking £700 have a look for companies that do dpf delete.

I don’t drive VAG but there are bmw specialists who take the dpf off*, cut a small hole in the top and weld a through pipe in place then weld the opening up and re-fit. They then map your engine to run without.

Still passes emissions tests and mot as the mot is a visual check to make sure it’s still in place.

Makes your engine rev smoother, more powerful and more economical. Obviously not so green though.

I’d bet my bottom dollar there are plenty of VW specialists offering the same service.

*I of course wouldn’t have done anything of the sort to my car.

It still hasn’t turned up. Going to phone tomorrow to ask where it is. Will let you know asap

Any advice on resting before or riding the day before? Carb loading needed?

What’s all this arse cream advice for? What does it do? Do you smear it kind of sack backwards to crack?

I finished the 5 hour one before with thighs screaming but we’d been doing a lot of mid ride surging and raced every climb.

Felt like I was outside a night club in Ibiza despite getting there at 9am. Same though, I got a decent deal on a down jacket and a waterproof that’s cut really nice for riding in.

Don’t think there was anything decent at 70% off though.

I’ve got a laminator 17 coming in the post at the minute. If you can hang on a few days I’ll give you a detailed report of how it performs.

What’s the point in it? It’s adding batteries and servo motors to something that works fine without?

30t 11-46t here on the peak district bike. Perfect compromise for me.

Anyone compared one in real world to a 6 pack?

Trying to choose between the two currently.

So long as you have chainstay clearance it doesn’t really matter, just means your chainring is 1.5mm further inboard.

In all honesty I think a non boost chainset on a boost frame can actually improve chainline if you are running a dinner plate cassette as it lines it up more with the massive chainrings.

Not unless it is specifically advertised as one. There are two. The normal m8000 and m8000 boost.

It’s collection only from Uttoxetor and don;t forget to add 44% to your winning bid.

+ 20% + 20% is +44%

Is there likely to be anything decent left this weekend as they had the first one in October? surely just the same stock that was left?

Cheers, some useful info so far.

I ride club Sunday (long usually 4-5 hours) and Tuesday night (shorter but sharper 2-3 hours).

Any advice on best days to run?

Yeh I’ve been building it up since July. Not really taken a rest week though and felt like collapsing on Wednesday last week so did nothing until this evening when I’ve been for a run.

In fact I’ve ramped up since January really when I realised I’d got a bit tubby but really switched it up a gear in July when I had 6 weeks off work. The twice a week club rides started in September.

4th week easy… that could help, I’ve ramped up and up since July.

Running is a bit sporadic but tend to try and go out when I’m feeling freshest. Should probably put more of a plan together but my working week can vary a lot so squeeze it in around the riding.

Expect to be slower uphill.

I’ll have a look at Lake as well then cheers.

I’m sending a set of northwave back. Wider than some of the shimano ones I’ve tried but still not wide enough.

Cheers guys, I’ll have a look a t Giro HV

And your wheel sits 1.5mm off centre too that way.

If you put a cap each end you don’t end up with the chainline as the manufacturer recommended. And has been said you’ve got fiddly caps to fall out on the trail.

In my head its not as stiff either but can’t back that up with science or engineering calculations.

I’ve got one on an sb6c. Works great, I re-dished the wheel myself and had to fine tune it a second time, that’s more to do with lack of chainstay clearance on my frame though.

Would highly recommend.

Be careful Torqueing up the rotor bolts though as I sheared one. Wolf tooth sent me two spares out foc so very happy with that.

Make sure you threadlock them as they are longer.

Cheers guys,

Went totally off piste and just ordered a new helmet and bar light combo from MTB-Batteries, cracking deal on their website at the minute for £145 for a 2000 lumen bar light and an 800 lumen helmet light that is really tiny that price was posted too. Bargain!!!!

Anyone know if Exposure did any Black Friday deals last year? Thinking of hanging fire on a purchase if they did?

Cheers Stu, appreciate the opinion

Yes I’ve got cycle to work but currently got a road bike I’m paying for and not allowed two vouchers at once.

I thought that about the battery too, I bought my Hope from them though in a similar situation (old stock) and it’s been fine. The LBS guy recons they charge them periodically for this reason and I’m inclined to believe him.

Is £265 a good price for it?

Cheers, yes I keep hearing lots of positives about Exposure stuff.

Lakes might be cool in the summer matey!

I’m leaning towards buying this Reflex at £265 and putting the hope one on my helmet, but its the older vision 4 so possibly a bit big for the helmet.

Hoping someone can tell me whether its worth buying at £265 or buying a newer model?

Hi Alex,

The Hopes decent, but I’m riding more and more at night so upgrading both helmet and bar light…. Will probably sell the Hope on once I’ve replaced it.

Whilst we are talking about this I’ve been thinking about changing my handlebar light. Been offered an Exposure Reflex MK2 (Old stock) for £265 from LBS… is that a good deal? Would I be better buying a current model that’s priced at a similar spec?

What would you recommend if I run a cable? I always have a camelback so that’s no issue?

Thanks gents, I’ll have a look at the exposure range. The programmable stuff puts me off them a bit.

So exposure helmet lights

Diablo
Joystick
Axis mk4

Any others?

Could anyone give me an easy break downs of the pro’s and con’s of each? The website is a bit overload of info!

I’d prefer non-programmable if possible, can’t be doing with learning how to programme a light. I want on/off and 2/3 brightness settings.

Whats everyone think to the exposure helmet mounts? Do they stay where you’ve aimed them? Are they even adjustable?

Doesn’t have to be all in one, however for a helmet light I’m not sure which is best?