One of my colleagues has some similar distance. He often drives in with bike in the boot then rides home. Then rides in the next day and drives home with the bike.

That way he doesn’t have to do it twice in one day but gets a couple of base rides a week through a commute.

There’s a big price difference on wiggle.

Can get the pr1.0 for £71 and then £10 off if I get a mate who’s never ordered to order it for me.

£61 is a lot better than £110.

Would the pr1.0 be suitable so we think?

Right ok I’m sold, enough people have recommended the ism saddles that I’ll give one a go.

What would people recommend for someone who’s got relatively wide sit bones, commutes a few times a week and generally does about 4 hours on a Sunday?

Lowered my seat slightly, hasn’t helped the numbness however I did prefer the general feel of how my legs were pushing. Thanks for that David.

I’ll look into a used ism saddle to try.

I unfortunately can’t use my mtb saddle i love on the road bike as it has a strange clamp system that needs the kore seatpost that comes with it and the post is 31.6. My roast bike has a seat mast instead of a post.

Yeh thanks Andy. I did this but it was only fizik ones they had… none of them worked well for me

Thanks I’ll have a measure, never heard of that method… well worth a go!

Will look at the specialized one too cheers

Could saddle too high cause that?

I’ve always put it so I if my heels in the pedal legs about locked out as a rule.

I’ve done that for this and I’m getting no knee pain etc.

I’ll look into some of these other saddles but blimey they don’t half cost a whack! Could blow through £500 trying different saddles until you find a good one!

I love the Kore one I’ve got on my mtb but you just can’t buy them anywhere now.

Error. Tried very little of the above. Just lots of different normal road saddles at different angles.

The bars is a good idea, I’ll try that.

The ism saddles look like a torture device for testicles! Rather pricey too to just try :-(

Thanks, riding around with an erection will definitely solve the issue :roll:

Of course it does make your body needs to maintain a steady 39 degrees.

You’re riding around generating heat that is being constantly absorbed by the cold air around you so you have to keep generating heat.

That takes energy. How do we get that energy?.. more food.

Do the axles fit?

I’d considered doing this once nd thought that road bikes ran 130mm not 135mm on the rear and assumed the front was also different width?

Apparently 12% drain on an alfine. Most likely that causing it in conjunction with the weight difference.

If you are riding uphill then you are at lower speeds where tyre drag isn’t as much of an issue as on flat, the weight needs extra wattage to climb which is significant, in conjunction with an alfine it’s obviously added up to less efficient than your other bike for climbing.

Or they aren’t used to doing 15000ft of elevation acros 8 hours and want to get round without cramping at 90 miles… and would like to ride the majority of the route.

Not fear, realistic view of their own fitness levels and what is achievable in the time they have between now and then ;-)

Am I right in thinking this is the side that you can’t see?

In which case I would just leave it, It’ll grow back in the spring and re-green.

Thanks guys. 11-36t with that Linderets road link is winning at the minute!

Great shout, what mech would run with that and an 11sped 105 shifter?

Thanks for the input so far folks.

It’s 11speed so mtb cassette isn’t an option.

I guess I could go for a mtb 11 speed cassette though and a mid cage mech?

Although 11-32t with a 33 front chainring is winning at the minute for me from above recommendations.

Thanks, interesting hearing peoples experiences.

Working on it. Don’t have that much flab to lose. Bulk from decades of weight training not coming off so quick.

No chance of redundancy ever.

I’ve thought about this and the slight change of role is also a pulling point for me.

I would mention the commute but then talk about the role, the commute being helpful as I’ve got a young child about to start nursery.

Thanks Jekkyl, in my profession it’s a whole day interview with a yes/no from both sides at the end of the day so not possible.

Cheers for input so far folks, inteagued by the commute enthusiasm coming out!

Thanks guys, yeh I was specifically looking for on the helmet when commuting.

I’ve got 2 flashing rear ones I use on the bike.

Was hoping for a flashing option though :-(

Any alternatives?

Mk11 Joystick. Ace helmet light.

Iirc it uses the same battery as the diablo. Diablo on high drains battery quickly so you end up running it on low anyway. If you run the joystick at a similar brightness you get the same battery life for a lighter weight.

I tool the mountain bike and was only 4 minutes slower than when on my road bike. Think the wind was with me for most if it :-)

Taking the mtb instead the road bike for stability.

Wish me luck!

Thanks munster. It’s still useful for myself and others to read. May still go tubeless after the winter when my wife is back at work (she’s on maternity at the min so money is a bit tighter).

Well I priced it up. At about £50 a tyre, then £12 for a pair of valves and then my rims needed strips at £7.50 each it came in at the best part of £150 to go tubeless…

So I went the other way and on the way home bought a cheap set of wire beaded conti gator skins.

Hopefully have more success on the commute on Friday!

Thanks for responses so far.

I’m wandering about the rim strips, are you guys running stans tapes or?

I haven’t actually looked to see what is lurking under my tyre as I wasn’t looking at eyelets etc when I sorted punctures the other day.

Pretty sure the bontrager ones need rim strips though or some tape?

I’ve set loads of mtb tubeless wheels up and have a compressor so not too worried about the set up, just more peoples experiences.

Thanks again for your input folks

Happy days… checked when I got home today (took the car today) and my Bontrager rims are tubeless ready. But disappointed the bike didn’t come with valves and tape though.

So now my new question is…

Should I go tubeless and if so what tyres/sealant/rim strops would people recommend? Commuting twice each week and one long Sunday ride each weekend.

So literally just the same. Rim strip using something like stans tape. A tubeless valve, some sealant and a proper tubeless road tyres?

Do I need special rims to go tubeless on 700c tyres? Or is it exactly the same as what I’ve done on my Stans crest and flows on the mtb?

They weigh an absolute ton. Mine at least doubled the weight of my whole bike*

*May be a slight exaggeration but you get the idea

Can you go tubeless on a road bike with normal rims? Bontrager oem ones?

Some people have mentioned gatorkins and one person mentioned rather dying.. are they really that bad?

Another good idea. Thanks.

Any other commuter tips like that?

How on earth do you get stans into a 23c tube?

Thanks guys, lots of opinions on tyres here.

I didn’t even know you could get tubeless road tyres? I’m literally a walking salesperson for tubeless on mtbs, love it so much! Take it you need specific rims on a road bike to run tubeless?

As for the tyres..they really do need to roll well as I have a century planned for every Sunday between now and May and I need it for that plus 2 commutes and one Hill reps session each week for the next 18 weeks (Fred Whitton training). Some of the lads I’m training with are already faster so running dragging tyres will see me right off the back!

Really don’t want to keep changing them to sunday tyres nd two wheel sets is out of question and budget.

Anyone tried most of the above suggestions? I’m also torn on sizing but thinking 25c is the way forward.

Few questions to answer.

I mean proper road bike tyres, I’m currently on 23s but interested in going wider. Commuting on my only road bike (drop bar bike).

The tyres came on the bike (Bontrager r1 700x23c). They have only seen about 600 miles so don’t think it’s the age of them.

I can get a lift and yes will definitely carry two tubes in future.

Latex gloves is a great shout! That’s experience coming through!

Definitely not the same thing causing the puncture as they were different wheels. Rear on the way to work, front on the way home :-(

Do you find it hard to actually use? Mine seems to very easily press too hard and shift down even when you are trying to be gentle.

Thought that’d be the case. i’ll have a look