Thoughts… ask a question rather than making some statements that don’t require a response?*

* Walks off feelings smugly sarcastic.

Nice. I’ve been through exactly the same process this week. Looking at selling off an xc bike an all mountain bike and my road bike to buy

http://www.wheelbase.co.uk/media/catalog/product/1/1/110-air-chorus.jpg

Yes that’s what prompted me to post this.. wasn’t there a middle tab with something on it too that’s now gone?

Is the course flat or undulating?

If it has ups and downs then try pushing harder on the climbs and recovering slightly on the down parts that follow (by recover I mean push really hard but not as hard as on the climbing parts).

It’s a more efficient way of utilising the power you can produce ad the speed gains on the climbs are far greater than the reduction in speed on the descents due to drag at the higher speeds requiring exponentially more energy go overcome.

Hope that makes sense

It’s more the like and comment boxes seem different.. or am I imagining it?

I reckon the effect will be even more in running, as the part of the equation with air resistance can almost be removed; this is due to the speeds being much lower.

So even if you drop some power when losing weight providing it’s not proportional to the % weight loss then less weight will mean run faster (for distances not sprinting of course)

My used 5x Yeti SB6c?

It’s 3 litres with 2 turbos and I have 9 points and also drove into the back og someone last year. :-(

Take an xc bike next week for laugh

I’ll pass on those above thanks guys.

Not my cup of tea and other is too high mileage.

OP – how much for the Yeti?
email in profile please.

£3000 No offers

My opinion differs. I’m not here to argue about what I’d like in terms of size of motorbike.

Cheers, I really don’t want a 250, Fuel isn’t an issue really as it won’t get used that much. Maybe 50 miles per week.

It’s more to get me out of a situation when I’m too tired to ride a bike or can’t take the shared car we will still have.

The Honda NC700 looks perfect but that’s not happening for 1k from what I can see.

Cheers avDave2, that’s a help… I’ll get the ruler out.

It’s stock one of these

https://www.rutlandcycling.com/281204/products/trek-emonda-sl5-2015-mens-carbon-road-bike.aspx

How can I tell? If it is medium cage then will it work?

Maybe its not 6700, it’s 11 speed 105 I’ve got on there. My bad

Yeh I will do, I’ll try it in big big under load too.

Thanks guys, its a trek emonda so maybe might work based on the madone and domane experience above?

I’ll give it a whirl with just a cassette and then go from there.

Thanks for the input everyone. Long ride tomorrow now then rest for a week!

This will be well funny if the op gets his arse kicked.

Looks can be deceiving when it comes to bike fitness to some extent, not so much when it comes to climbs though. But they might ride the op into the ground before this big climb at the end :-)

+1 for a Joe blow

mogrim – Member
Wife’s just gone back to work only 3 days after a year on maternity. It’s to help pay the hangover of debt off from the last year.
Are you actually going to save that much money? If you’re going to be using it year-round don’t forget to budget another 500 for clothes/helmet/boots/gloves…

Anyway, my opinion: look for a Japanese 600CC of whatever kind that fits your budget, check the tyres don’t need changing and that it hasn’t been dropped too many times. I wouldn’t worry about specific models, although the Diversion mentioned above is a spectacularly good fit for the “uncool” criteria

I’ve got a loft full of different motorbike kit from when I had one before.

Massive saving over my car running costs

£220 pcm on a loan (will clear this with the capital
£90 pcm on insurance
£25 pcm on tax
£200 per tyre
20mpg so about £200 a month on fuel

I’ll only be using the motorbike maybe 2 times a week, then using our other car 1 or 2 days per week then riding push bike the other day or 2 days.

Basically sharing a car and having a motorbike as a contingency. Will probably ride push bike a lot of the time, but the motorbikes is a good safety net for when I’ve got a cold or if I’ve got a late finish.

Winston, thanks but its too far away really

Diversion looks like a good shout, cheers for that!

It’s for use in Nottingham, to be fair it only needs to last a couple of years and we’ll probably go back up to 2 cars.

Wife’s just gone back to work only 3 days after a year on maternity. It’s to help pay the hangover of debt off from the last year.

600cc so I can get myself out of trouble if I need to

This is a load of drivel. Power will ALWAYS get you into trouble, never out of it. Riding sensible gets you out of trouble. I do 12,000 miles a year on a bike with 47bhp that struggles to crack 100mph. Not once in my entire riding career have I ever “used power to get out of trouble”
You’ll be telling us ‘loud cans save lives’ next.

I’ve currently got a Honda NC700x with 40,000 miles on the clock. It’ll be FAAAAR cheaper when you account all servicing and running costs than anything currently mentioned simply because of its economy. 80mpg is easy to get, tyres last 12,000 miles, services every 8000 miles are easy to DIY, nothing goes wrong with it. I’d be willing to put money on my entire running costs being little more than just the fuel on a CBR600

Your opinion. I disagree, having had issues on an underpowered 250 in the past when pulling up a motorway slip road and a row of lorries were in convoy.

My last bike was a cbr600rr so a 600cc commuter won’t be getting me into any trouble.

Budget probably about £1000, uncool so it’s cheap. I’d take uncool and lower mileage/reliable over paying a premium for a well loved and sought after machine.

Bit like how Honda VTR 1000s are super cheap because no-one wants them (Ugly). Whats the 600cc comuter equivalent?

If you can’t breath through just your nose (have to use mouth too)then you are getting into Zone 3 imho

How did this go then? We’re all waiting!!!

Please keep this updated, maybe even take a go pro traffic cam and record it so we can all watch.

Is this for kids bikes? Was wandering why anyone would want 24″ crests as they aren’t exactly a jump rim?

I’m going to try a 10 speed chain. Don’t really want to buy a chain guide, defeats the point of 1x in my view

The chain is used and it is a new chainring and cassette but not sure that would cause this peeling affect? Normally that causes skipping.on the cassette under load etc which it doesn’t do. It’s fine in sprockets 2 through to 9 too. Just peels off like it’s trying to shift to a granny ring when in 1st

Just checked. Chainline is bang on 50mm.

9 speed chain on narrow wide the culprit?

Thanks, how do you measure chainlime?

Yes the chainring is in the middle chainring position. Its replaced a middle ring on what was a triple crank. I have one spacer either side on the bb As it’s a 68mm bottom bracket shell frame and a truvativ crank.

Yep I’m going to move a spacer so that the chain line drops left 2.5mm.

It looks to me like chain line plus the fact the 36t on the rear is bigger than the 34t chainring so the chainlime is acting like a front mech would and causing the chain to hook off to the left.

I’m wandering if the 9 speed chain on narrow wide is compounding the issue.

Yes please to the trainer road trial code.

Also how do I do that with the garmin? Using an 810

I don’t have IOS, so zwift will possibly happen on laptop when I’ve got time to faff with it. For now it’s just about structured HIIT sessions.

I’m finding the TACX cloud pretty awesome to construct training blocks so definitely want to keep using that for the time being.

Get a cheap bluetooth heart rate monitor

Can you suggest one that is available and under £30?

Yeh I’m not using a pc with mine. Just using the phone app. My laptop takes as long as a HIIT session just to boot up properly.

Yeh I’m not using a pc with mine. Just using the phone app. My laptop takes as long as a HIIT session just to boot up properly.

Can the garmin pick up the power from the Vortex then? Didn’t know that was possible.

It’s nice to be able to create training programmes in the cloud though and run them through the tacx app, as I’ll be having that open to control the trainer anyway it makes sense to have it all on one screen and data capture. I can then see what hr I’m at for what power output at different cadences etc.

Cheers, all of my gear (Garmin/heart rate/speed/cadence) sensors are ant+. It’s just my new tacx turbo that’s connecting to my phone via Bluetooth.

So if I buy a blu tooth HR monitor I should be able to get HR as well as the power reading etc when on the turbo too?

Thanks, I’m surprised my garmin one isn’t Bluetooth? The watch it works with links to my phone via Bluetooth.