Thanks Nick

Anyone got a 20mm front one they want to sell? Needs to definitely be 20mm not 15.

Sorry could someone move this to clasifieds please?

I had this happen once. Complained and they gave it.back for free. I taped around everywhere to.protect and use nitromorse and a toothbrush to clear thread and nitromorse and a credit card to face the headset and bb etc. Worked a treat.

This seems to disagree with all the people who think that the geometry will go terrible (not necessarily off of this thread)

linky

It’s a 15 minute job. Crown race already fitted on each fork and separate front brakes and wheels that stay with each fork. So…

Swap back wheel and realign caliper is 4 min job.

Undo brake.lever from bars

Undo top cap, unbolt steerer clamp on stem… slide forks out slide other fork and wheel in. Retension top cap and stem bolts. Clamp brake lever on.

20 mins tops for when I do the occasional (3x a year) uplift, and then before heading on an alpine trip.

Appreciate the input anyway, I guess I’m looking at 9mm over a 180mm Lyrik, not over what I’ve currently got.

I have to say though it feels like the fork is too short to me on the 160mm pike.. especially when it sags.

It could..but then prob won’t climb as well for peak district riding. Im really interested in the 2 setup idea and getting the down setup more focused and less of a compromise.

It’s interesting people say about balance of travel, but we all ride hardtails with 5″ at the front and nothing at the back.

Nope, there’s more/less difference than that between some forks of the same travel from different brands, not to mention headset cup stack heights (if you have external cup) etc.

I *might* be concerned about the different stresses of single crown vs dual crown, but then I’d make that call on a frame by frame and rider by rider basis.

Yeh, I thought about that, I would have thought those pro riders put a bike through more stress in one day than I will through 2 or 3 trips to Pila/Morzine etc. I never get more than 2ft air really.

My brother gave me a Klein Atiitude.

It got stolen :-(

Can pick a see caliper up for about £40. If they are largely the same thing then it’s a big difference in cost.

Reviving this on the back of my other thread about bigger brakes for alpine use.

I’ve got some xt and slx (785 and 675) levers kicking about with hoses…

If I ordered some See or Saint calipers would they have the same power as a standard 810 saint brake?

Can anyone link to the banjo I’ll need to connect them?

Is there any reason I can’t just stick a saint caliper on my xt levers? Is there a difference between the xt 785 lever and the saint lever that goes with the 820 caliper?

Can get calipers for £86

Considering a set of 203 rotors front and rear plus 1 saint caliper for the front?

Do they use 5.1 then?

Haven’t ridden lift assisted in nearly a decade
Why not test the current bike by taking it on an uplift day?!

If you read my post properly matey that’s what’s spurred this on ready for my holiday. BPW makes my brakes feel weedy. Thu are fine for peak district rides etc.

Just watched the new SRAM video. Looks easy to bleed… but how is that different.to.the old avid bleed method bar ‘de-gassing’ the fluid? They were a pain in the arse to get right.

If you’re doing that anyway, why not try the bigger rotor on the current brakes first? Might be enough.

Because my current brakes fade and get inconsistent bite point on long descents. I want something inherently more powerful to start with along with bigger rotors.

I’m also looking at bigger forks (see other thread about 200mm on an sb6c).

My hands have always been a limiting factor for me in the alps, it’s a lack of proper conditioning on big descents and there isn’t much I can do about that.. I’m going to try press ups holding dumbells so the weight is through my hands like a handlebar grip plus get a finger board for hanging off to help build some more hand strength.. but I basically want to buy the best chance of helping my hands I can so I enjoy my trip fully.

Haven’t ridden lift assisted in nearly a decade so I’m starting early thinking about bike changes and getting my bike right for when I go.

Are you already on 200mm rotors?

No 180 front and rear. I’m thinking 203 front 180 rear on the new ones?

I can only comment on my 2 1/2 year old m820’s which have been utterly superb. My experience with 4 pot Hopes on the other hand, they have all the faults above + spongy inconsistent braking, but they can be repaired. Till they go all spongy again.
And avids/sram are a pita to bleed, so I wouldnt buy them.

I have the same opinion of hope/avid. Admittedly I haven’t tried new SRAM brakes but I find shimano a doddle to bleed. I do like the fact they are mineral oil too so my big tub of oil doesn’t go off once open.

I’m really in a toss up between saint and mt7 at the min. Prob should have asked for opinions just on these two brakes really.

Does anyone know if there is much difference between xt and saint levers?

Could I just buy saint calipers and some bigger rotors/mounts and put tue saint calipers on my m785 levers?

E- Homemade chicken curry (lean) with brown rice.
D- Soda water
L- STW , local riding group WhatsApp banter. Mrs has got Barry Trotted on the T.V. it’s actually ok.

Here’s what our latest coop looked like after we had a massive garden shift about.

We haven’t gone to town too much on the fox proofing as there aren’t many about round here. We have got weld mesh around the peripheral though to stop rats digging in more than anything.

You need weld mesh going down about 2ft to stop a determined fox.

Chicken wire doesn’t stop foxes, it keeps chickens from escaping. So your enclosure needs to be firm too.

You’ll need some serious weld mesh in the floor.if you are going to fox proof it then.

Yes they will be scared and it will stop them laying for a week every time they see a fox.

I’ve had chickens for the best part of a decade, feel free to pick my brains about anything.

There’s a friendly shop who let me put a halfords type voucher towards a yeti frame. I’m not naming them publically though as they can get into trouble for it.

Pm me if you want to know who

Just checked..
It is cinch system. I’d just check that the lateral preload is up properly finger tight. Read raceface removal and re-fitting of cinch system and you’ll see what I mean. These often cause creaks when not preloaded properly.

Isnthat the cinch system on those?

Sounds like it’s been bent out of shape and pulled in line by a true.

This results in really loose spokes one side and tight in the side that pulling it back in line. Forever doomed to be pinging back out of shape again.

Can’t tell for sure but sounds like it. If you’ve got a wheel jig then get a new rim and replace it using the existing spokes. Use new nyloc nipples though.

Try moving cleats as far back as they’ll go. Most of that feel comes from a central foot position imho.

Yes. Pm me the sale fell through

Thanks guys. Appreciate you taking the time to write detailed responses.

I’ll take the Makita

Are the screw heads hex bit or actually screwdriver heads?

Needs pictures for us all to make an informed decision. It’s definitely not that I want to laugh at you.

What do you weigh out of interest?

From negative read you need more like 400watts for 20-25 mins to get competitive on a flat course.

But no experience personally. The reason I ask what you weigh is my 20 min power is very similar.

Depends how much steep climbing you normally do.

Also how tall and heavy are you?

Standard response you will get is 32t oval.

Personally run 30t on my peak district bike.

I run a 38t on my xc bike but have a 26t to back that up. Rarely ever use the 26 though.

Depends how much steep climbing you normally do.

Also how tall and heavy are you?

Standard response you will get is 32t oval.

Personally run 30t on my peak district bike.

I run a 38t on my xc bike but have a 26t to back that up. Rarely ever use the 26 though.

Johnhighfield if you go on the 4iii website you can buy them direct for £300 (I need to double check this now)

Nice psa.. think you can buy them direct for that though?

Lol. It was no chain gang, definitely more than a bimble… last 85 miles had a 15 mph headwind and was spent with hr at 160bpm (max is 186).

I hope that you are competing in TT’s or Crits if you can avaerage 19mph for 10hrs
If you are not you certainly should be .

Nope never done one. I’m trying to get my watts per kg higher before attempt that sort of thing (got a thread going on this 5w/kg).

I was in a group of 6 and shared the load so it wasn’t a solo effort. Still bloomin hurt though!

Few people asked how often I do rides of that duration…. errrr once before I think which was on the mtb around hope Valley and did about 50 miles of very up and very down on the big bike. Long rides are normally about 5 hours for me.

One thing that’s been really noticeable is I can’t stop eating still since this ride!

A bit. Train hamstrings and abs if you want to help keep everything even.

Rode last night. Felt shattered, have woken up today feeling better rested than yesterday.

Think the answer was about 4 days in this situation. Thanks all for the input.