A better colour be a master………

Yes, looks ridiculous,

How dare you. I mean who doesn’t want to be a master of something.

You certain you haven’t just put too much air in for your weight and the compression is set to fully open? A forks recommended air pressure can sometimes be way off.

Let the air out and see if you can compress it all the way through it’s travel.

Did some renowned Jungle tunes suitable for another thread.

You did empty the oil out of the damper by pushing the rod back and forth till nothing is left?

Not easy to answer without knowing which air can, tune (usually on the sticker) and the frame/suspension linkage type.

Unfortunately it is possible to be completely at odds and the cost of alteration can be prohibitively expensive.

Botti Broth or some variation of.

Carling Black Label!

Where were we

I’m still on a Ulefone Armor 2. They’re up to version 9 now and there are a few derivatives to satisfy different needs and budgets.

You don’t need new crush washers either I reused mine several times and they never leaked.

Fox still have it on their website. Take a screen capture!

https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=530

The air spring side you can use pretty much any fully synthetic oil and it doesn’t affect performance. Even the blue float fluid (goes on top of the air piston) you can just use a splash of the lower oil, as all it does is keep the the piston seal wet and the lower oil ends up in the positive air chamber anyway!

You have to cycle the damper to get any oil out of it (squirts out and goes everywhere) or you will overfill it. Any oil variation from standard spec on the damper leg will alter performance. Whether it matters or is actually an improvement is another matter. Even Fox say you can use 20wt instead of 10wt for a different tune!

Edit: Cleaning and re-soaking the foam rings in oil makes a nice job of it and the fork will be as plush as those forks get!

First of all check the fork lockout isn’t just jammed on.

Float open baths are a really basic fork and easy to service. The main problem with them, apart from the adjusters getting jammed, is oil migrates from the lowers to the top of the air spring, which makes them harsh over time.

Unless the seals are damaged (they are surprisingly hard wearing) and the fork has been ran dry, you can usually get away with just doing the lower oils. A splash of blue on top of the air piston and re-soaking the foams and off you go.

I’ve got the Fox oil volume chart for them old forks somewhere.

Another for the “which one of you lot was it”

STW YT takeover. Needs moar wrist watch, Panama hat and winter tyre debate.

Indisputable proof of the menace.

Only used Shimano never had any problems. Obviously they get hit by things and need slight adjustment every now and again!

Utilitarian things, gimmicky designs often don’t equal better performance.

The levels of pig thick arrogance in this country are off the charts. Imagine the carnage if British people had guns!

CST do a full range of 26″ tyres. BFT is their DHF alike tyre. They have treads similar to Bonty XR4 and others.

I haven’t tried any of them so don’t know if they are any good!

Wink……

Don’t fight it.

As long as the regulation crease in your y-fronts is there your Astra key will be accepted.

Was it crocs on the green?

FFS blackballed by the committee.

Posted on page 1 but the link didn’t work!

MTV

Yeah well mine is red AND rarer AND exactly the same as one of the steel Record vices (No. 84) posted.

Parkinson Model F

Nope they’re all shilling something or other. Even the one’s who make a point of being real, rolling laughing emoji!

YT has become the extension of corporate marketing it was always intended to be, once the captive audience was large enough. Yes the old fashioned drug dealer tactic is pretty much standard practice for American tech/software businesses.

Risitas

Lost a leg but thankfully not dead yet.

With Shimano clutches try to not lose the:

– The housing seal (grease it)
– The housing bolts
– The tiny metal clip thing
– Tension adjuster port cover (if it has one)

All have potential to fall on the floor and go missing! Also a tiny bit of loctite on the clutch tension bolt gives it a bit of resistance to undoing. I like a thin coat of moly driveshaft grease (NLGI 2) for the clutch wheel itself!

Yes they develop slop (Shimano) where the jockey wheel cage is attached to the rest of the derailleur and some of the other pivot points. It can be difficult to feel when the whole thing is under tension! Depends where you ride and how much of beating your mech gets. Mine usually look pretty battered after a few months riding!

Something that is rarely mentioned is the fact the jockey wheel cage get’s bent/twisted (11sp XT are soft as shite) so the upper and lower jockeys end up out of alignment.

Most bulletproof setup I’ve had featured a CNC’d cage. It was a lot stiffer than the Shimano one it replaced (got bounced off a lot of rocks round the lakes and peaks) and I got a year out of it with only 2 hanger realignments, 1 cable inner replacement and 2 adjustments for the new cables when stretched.

Whilst Rim dinger is a great trail, I found its rockiness to be greatly overstated.

Yeah. Deep Navigation and Zut Alors had the most rugged rock gardens from what I remember. I think the lower section of Watts Occurring (had low expectations but it is pretty good) is rougher than Rim Dinger, although I did it last and could hardly hold on to the bars by then!

If you’re running decent carcass tyres and not stupid low pressures you will be fine without inserts. Obviously with it being mainly hard packed and there being jumps and stuff you could do with clearing, running slightly higher tyre pressures and stiffer suspension is a must IMO.

Big in the biscuit game.

I bought my other half a Zefal saddle (wasn’t expensive) with a long cutout. She won’t ride a bike without it now!

The closest I can find to it (looks better quality) is this BBB saddle https://bbbcycling.com/uk_en/bsd-13-multidensity

If you want to go cheap there is Mixxx which is surprisingly good for free software!

Another thing I remembered.

If your HBO adjuster (didn’t need 4 positions Manitou have dropped the feature for on/off) doesn’t work, don’t shit a brick and think your fork is buggered internally. It’s just grit wedging it in. Undo the little allen bolt, take it out and clean it…….Easy eh, well just be very careful to not lose the two tiny ball bearings in either side of the knob. They’re really small and easy to lose as they come flying out!

I prefer X-Fusions adjusters because they never jam up, due to being like an over cap on top of the stanchion, instead of bowl that collects shit Manitou, Fox (had the same problem with Fox adjusters in the past) and others.

On a positive note the damping of Mattocs is up there with the best. When I first got mine I used to put the front wheel into the worst ugly ruts and holes on the trails just for fun, so good is the repeated big hit handling! A Lyric slightly edges it for out and out composure, but not by much and usually costs a lot more.

Had one the lowers were replaced under warranty. Brand new lowers and serviced but the play was still there. As the packed in grease runs out in use it is more noticeable! Mates got a Minute Comp from a Ragley same problem.

Hayes were not even able to get Mattocs to 2 (might have been 3) of the major review sites, that worked first time out of the box!

There’s at least 2 published articles reporting bushing play with Mattoc test forks and the massive MTBR thread (mostly a Manitou love in) where people have reported the same problem.

The Lsc & Hsc work in conjunction with each other .so if you want more lsc add hsc first

Yes I believe it is one of the quirks of the damper, something to do with shim stack pre-loading IIRC.

You will notice when the HSC is fully open the LSC doesn’t do much. Apparently it becomes increasingly effective with each click of HSC.

When I’m pump tracking or jumping I have both fully closed!

I’m afraid all but the latest Mattocs have the same design fault that afflicted early Mezzers. Excessive bushing play is common with Mattocs and Minutes IME. Often it’s not noticed by users because, in the main, the damping on the pro models is pretty sophisticated, especially when coming from more basic forks from other brands. The forks when new are also packed with grease, which keeps it quiet!

If your fork has bushing slop it feels like your headset is a tiny bit loose. Put your bike on it’s back wheel and bounce it up and down. You will hear a buzzing vibration/rattle through the fork and you can feel it’s at the stanchion lower junction with your hand. On the trails it manifests itself as stiffness/binding on fast washboard sections.

Almost as good as the planets one!

Not all the pubs advertising Sky Sports are to avoid

True you can get a cracking gammon steak and pineapple ring.

Anyhoo should incur a lifetime ban.

Remix better than the original!

Is gated dated?