I’ve started using a very basic, light bumbag instead of a Camelback for short rides. Yes, you need to do the strap up pretty tight but it’s not uncomfortable.

It’s much nicer than carrying a full pack and it can’t possibly make me look more of an arse than I already do :D

You can’t go wrong with a C456. Forget that review – it’s cobblers, as Ll the people on here who’ve ridden one will tell you. If you like the look of it, and I’m with you on this one, you’ve overcome the only disadvantage it has. Buy one.

Double post

The Specialized saddle that came on my Stumpy years ago had cloth sections on the rear that just disintegrated after about ten short dry rides. It looked awful. Took it back to Evans to complain but they weren’t interested. To be fair, the saddle’s still in daily use on my station bike nearly 8 years later :D

Less of a loser

Thanks Loco. Didn’t realise they were so cheap tbh

Happy with mine (Crests on Switch Evo). They made awful pinging noises when I first rode them but have remained true with no obvious tension problems.

SS is great for the Surrey hills. So are gears. It’s all good.

I’ve taken to using a small bumbag for short rides when I don’t need water. It’s great.

I run 130mm Revs on mine, which I think is perfect for all-round riding. Used to have 140 Floats which were Ok too.

Wear something skimpy and plenty of lippy

I lost a bolt from my fork lowers when servicing them. Spent a day and a half searching before giving up. Next weekend I picked up the fork and found it straight away, screwed into the end of the damper rod where it came from. I knew I’d put it in a safe place. :roll:

Looks like a fun experiment. How does it ride?

Think there’s an issue with 16in C456 and Rockshox tapered steerers. From memory, you need a particular headset which increases the stack height a little.

I hate it when manufacturers won’t sell you parts – eg fork internals – because you’re not a shop. Or you can only buy a whole unit rather than just the screw/washer/seal you need, turning a cheap job into one that’s not worth doing. It. Makes. Me. So. Angry!!!!!!!!!!! Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaarrrgh!!!!!

I have a 2008/9 Reign with 160 forks and it’s perfect for what you describe. I imagine a Remedy would be quite similar but I’d consider factoring in some big forks for Alpine stuff. The Froggy has to be too much bike for an all-rounder.

I have two Joplin 3s. One had to be fixed under warranty and both can be a little temperamental. Got them cheap but wouldn’t buy again.

I also have a Reverb which has been faultless and is much, much nicer to use. Bar mounted lever is a big plus and the hydraulic one on the Reverb is much better than a cable.

I sent a Dare2 Be one back. Cut was bizarre, material was foul. Got a Karrimor one from Field and Trek which is really nice, although the sizing was a bit big. Not tried riding in it but would prob be OK for cold days

Watched it twice. Very good :D

You have to change the spring

Geometry, innit. The Genesis Fortitude is built around a short, rigid fork. You could put a sus fork on but it would have a longer A-C length which would raise and slacken the front more than the designer intended.

Does that Cannondale have an EBB? And is that an ally fork?

Rigid adds challenge to otherwise tame trails. It also adds zip when climbing or spinning along smooth flat stuff. However, it rattles your eyeballs and makes your bingo wings flap like a bumble bee who’s late with an urgent nectar delivery. I love it but I wouldn’t choose it as my only riding option.

Taupe. Or possibly ecru.
No, almond White.
Actually, maroon.

I’ve a gloss raw black one which still looks fine after 18 months. Mate’s had two Whippets with the two-colour paint job and decals and they still look like new after a few months.I do know of people who’ve had the opposite experience, though.

Use the force

That’s a shame. I was thinking of doing it this year. Must be a real blow to do all the prep and then have to bin it. Good luck for next year.

I ran an Inbred with 130mm Revs for a while. It was fine. Always meant to reduce the travel but never got around to it.

C456 is going to be your best bet. Don’t think you’ll find anything lighter at anything like a similar price, unless you opt for second-hand. It’s also a great bike.

Do a search on FSR bearing replacement. Several threads on here and elsewhere. Don’t know about a Pitch but most have a ridge between the Horst bearings that stops you driving them out from behind. I made a split collet extractor from an old V brake mount for my 2005 Stumpy. Worked OK

Exotics are great.

Those Pipedream forks look lovely – anyone know the weight of ’em?

I wouldn’t. Different sole to the AM41 and I think you’ll get much less grip. You’d be better off buying a cheap pair of skate shoes and some proper spd shoes.

Trails were almost dusty on Saturday. Now they’ll be a foot deep in clag…

Bring on the filth! :D

I’ve been using one of the above for a few months now and it’s superb. Bought some half-decent 18650s and it does a two-hour ride easily on a single battery. Beam is powerful and perfect for a head light. I use a Two Fish lockblock to attach it to my Giro Xen. I honestly can’t see why anyone would pay £200 or more for a ‘proper’ bike light these days

Use my lights year round but last night felt like the first properly dark one this autumn. I love night rides :D

Wheels will make the most difference. Stan’s Flow on Hope will save some weight, or try Superstar hubs for a cheaper option.

Chain set – SLX gives by far the best balance of weight, performance and price.

Decent 160mm forks, which sounds like what you need, aren’t cheap. I just bought some X-Fusion Vengeance which are prob the cheapest of the new options, and they’re very good so far. Otherwise, look around for s/h Lyriks or Fox 36s but be careful what you buy and be prepared to add the cost of a service to the price at a minimum.

As far as the shock goes, there’s a bunch of options. I’m no expert but have always had good results from Fox air shocks. The Cane Creek Double Barrel air gets good reviews but it’s pricey.

Other than that, think about buying a whole bike either second hand or a discounted last year’s model. I think Rutland Cycles are knocking out a Lapierre Spicy for about £1200 at the mo, which might be worth a look. Something like that may end up being your best and cheapest option.

Just back from a few days with Switchbacks[/url] in Bubion, riding in the Sierra Nevada. Good, varied riding and a well-run operation. I dare say they might uplift/guide you for a day or two.

It’s big, rough terrain, though, and you’ll enjoy yourself more on a 6in bike than an xc speed machine.

Another essential is to negotiate some protected time for those fiddly jobs. Nothing like finding you’ve got to take the kids to a party RIGHT NOW when you’ve just pulled your forks apart :evil:

The first thing to get right is your choice of bits. There are millions of standards out there so make sure your seatpost, fork, headset, bb, front mech, chainset, etc etc will fit your chosen frame before buying. If in doubt, talk to the LBS or frame manufacturer.

The only remotely tricky things are fitting a headset and fitting a star-fangle nut. Both are perfectly do-able if you take your time and either get the right tools or bodge some of your own from nuts, washers, blocks of wood and threaded rod, etc.

A good tip is to bung the headset in the freezer for a few minutes before fitting – it makes all the difference.

Cutting steerers, etc is a doddle as long as you take your time and check your measurements before cutting. Hacksaw and an old stem are your friends.

Everything else is just following instructions and tightening up allen bolts.

Wheelbuilding is a step up from just putting a bike together. It’s a bit more complicated but not that hard. For a first bike build, I’d start by buying some ready made wheels. But if you want to give it a go, get Roger Musson’s Wheelpro book and take it from there.

The golden rule in all these tasks is to stop if things seem to be going wrong, take a breather and either go to your LBS or try again calmly.

Have fun – there’s nothing like building up a new bike.

Oh but the classic is prettier. Unless you have to have a dropper post, I’d go for a classic. ‘Standard’ steerers will be around for a year or two yet, I’ll wager, even if old stock.

Genuine LOL