Geometry? 29er version?

I have both and can’t really fell the difference. Swapping definitely reduced pedal strikes on my Reign though

Buy yellow tape and valves from Superstar. But Smorgasbord and/or Chunky Monkey from On-One. Job done. Proper cheap and totally effective.

I’m just about to embark on this, having ordered a new top cap assembly to – hopefully – cure some fore-aft play. Will post again when I’ve done it.

I’ve had 26 Crests on Switch Evos for a year and they have been superb. A better build than the Hope Hoops I’ve got and no need to re-tension or change bearings so far. Just bought some Flow 29er wheels from them. No complaints.

I like the variety of the mildly knackered SL. I didn’t mind the BKB berms at first but I’m no longer a fan – still they’re there for a reason. And the rest of it’s pretty darn good these days.

Only thing missing from your ride was a Nimble 9 Matt. You’ll be miserable until you’ve bought it 😀

I’m thinking of upgrading the fondue set on my Reign. Can anyone recommend oven-to-tableware to match a top of the range Le Creuset? Ideally in a teal or sunset finish.

I used Exotics in 26in flavour and was v happy with them. Twangy but light and comfy. Now using Swift forks and I prefer them – comfy, stiff enough and no twang but they are a bit heavier than carbon. Everyone seems to love the carbon Niners but they cost more than the Revs I’ve just bought!

What really annoys me is that some people spend £3-4k on a bike and then completely fail to fit adequate cooking facilities.

One guy I ride with is making do with a bar-mounted toaster. 🙄

I mean, WTF?

Scandal and FF29 are fairly similar geometry I think. The FF29 is a lot prettier IMO and a bit more refined (and also can take a 120 fork without invalidating the warranty) but the Scandal seems very popular with those that ride them. It also has swapouts if you want to SS it.

Alternatively, you could save a load of weight by SSing your Inbred and fitting a rigid fork. I have a rigid SS inbred and it’s a surprisingly versatile bike.

A cheap Chinese carbon 29er is another possibility. Cheaper than the FF29 and people seem generally pleased with them.

A bike – like anything – is worth whatever you’re happy to pay.

I don’t buy into the ’boutique bikes are better’ myth so I’ll probably never pay the premium for one.

I say probably because there’s always a chance I might try one and fall in love…

I like the idea of XX1 but not at the silly price for the current top end version.

For me, the big question is whether they can produce something at a sensible price and a reasonable weight that still provides the wide gear range.

I suspect not. And TBH I’m quite happy with 9sp.

like a Yelli with 135mm suspension

Yes please!

I have two mates who have them and are very pleased. Rode with someone on one the other day and the BB creaked horrendously.

There’s always a welcome from the Weds night crew…

Swift, Fortitude and Unit are all good bikes, I reckon.

I have a 29er SS-specific Inbred with a Swift fork and that’s great too.

Then there’s the El Mariachi, Karate Monkey and Charge Cooker to think about. Of course, if you’re feeling flush you could go for a Niner or a Canfield Nimble 9…

Rebas may save you a couple of ounces but the answer you’re really looking for is … Nimble 9 😉

The vid shows a complete service but the play is down to tha top bushing. I’m gambling on getting away with just replacing the top cap. I’m also hoping the black and silver are the same inside. We’ll see.

Hey Titusrider, the Cocks will be riding from Nirvana at 6.45 on Weds. I think you said before that was too early for you but you’d be very welcome. Alternatively, mail me if you want to know which pub we’re heading for and we could say hello

Best I can do on my phone:

https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=11&ved=0CFcQtwIwCg&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D-w0X0-AOhRA&ei=UiuRUfK1MOfZ0QXtvoEY&usg=AFQjCNHexsseGp9zp14KRydGs3OXHiyqLg&sig2=rrvQMTuM9uHST8Id6QofhA

http://www.bike-discount.de/shop/a88165/reverb-top-cap-silver-dust-wiper-assembley-kit.html

😆

This is good . 2015 being organised before 2014. Seems in keeping

Charge Cooker SS or Genesis Fortitude SS

I have the same thing. Googling suggests its a plastic bushing in the top cap that needs replacing. Cheapest place to buy seems to be bike.discount.de
I’ve ordered a top cap assembly and plan to do the job myself. I’ll post again once I’ve had a go.

Won’t make a huge diff to BB height but should be interesting. Get to it young man!

I’d definitely be up for a return to Daaaarzet in 2014 😀

And .. hmmmm … a Surrey Hills SSUK in 2015 … I’m sure we could find a farm with a spare field and a couple of Portaloos

I tried fitting the valve in the base of the bottle originally – just dropped it in and jiggled it until it poked through. It worked but didn’t seal that well. I’m now using two valves in the cap, which works better and is marginally less worrying.

Do you mean use the existing rearward bolt hole as the dropout/axle location? Or do you mean the new dropout would sit directly under the rearward bolt?

Either way it’s an interesting experiment.

I was wondering if you could make a dropout that would move the axle above the existing seatstay. That might give you geo closer to the ideal but I’m sure it would do all sorts of nasty things to the forces acting on the frame/brakes, etc. You’d also have to run it SS and you’d probably end up with the chain rubbing on the chainstay. And it would look awful. But what the heck

All the above is true. However, if you fancy the satisfaction of learning a new skill and building your own wheels I can thoroughly recommend Roger Musson’s book.

Nice one Charlie!

Good work Happyrider! Get some dropouts made that move the axle up as much as poss without going back any more than you need to. Do it now!

And Brant, when can I have a proper C456 29er (with 425mm chainstays)? I’m waiting…

Anything under a metre is just marketing

I’m an On-One fan but I think the Lurcher is in my top ten ugliest bikes of all time list. Canyon all the way.

Depends what year your stumpy is. Older ones had smaller bearings and you’ll struggle to find a bolt small enough, which is why I used the split collet method

Hurrah!

I have to ask – you’re not the Mr Hankie are you?

Oh, and if you burr the end of the pipe before slotting it you can create a lip that helps it to grip.

Deano8 – yes, that’s the basic idea. Find a bit of pipe that fits reasonably snugly inside the bearing, cut a slot in the end then find a bolt that will wind into the pipe and open it to grip the bearing, then drive it out. You’re less likely to destroy the bearing leaving an outer race that’s a bugger to shift if you use this method IME.

Any MTB BB bearing without a decent seal both sides is doomed. I’d give ’em about 5 minutes.

Try making a split collet extractor. Kaesae off here (Katec Bearings, I think, he calls his outfit) has a YouTube video explaining how. I did it on a Specialized FSR horst link and it worked a treat.