Earplugs?

My Buzzard weighs over 30lb and is plenty playful (more so than my 24lb C456).

I thought On-One had shortened the chainstays on the 456 evo, which sounds like a good move to me. Have they gone back to longer ones on the 45650b?

I want to like them but … No. Fugly. Sorry.

Great film. Just back from doing something similar in Torridon.

Excellent, thanks

If you’re worried enough to get an opinion from a different doctor then it’s probably worth doing. You should be able to see another GP without too much trouble.

Much better than letting us numpties diagnose you 🙂

I have a Buzzard and it’s great. Optimised for going down but surprisingly good at techy climbing, though a bit heavy (as I’ve built it) for all-day XC. If you’re after something fun, I’d recommend it or something with similar geo – Yelli, Quarterhorse, Honzo, Taro, etc

Call me a cynic, but I don’t think this thread is done yet

I’d pick one of these: Buzzard, Yelli, Surface, Quarterhorse, Honzo

M540s are near identical to XT for a lot less

Yes, I suppose broken is more accurate

Silver seatpost, stem and bars, everything else black, would look great with that frame. You could also do silver hubs and rims. As it is, it’s just a bit of a mess but no worse than lots of other bikes out there.

I’ve always needed to take the manufacturer’s measurements at face value as I’ve ordered rims and spokes at the same time. It’s always made me nervous but I’ve not had a major problem.

I used the webbing ladder idea on my DIY seat pack and bar harness (posted on a previous page up there ^^) and have been really pleased with the extra adjustability it gives. Didn’t bother on my frame age as they were designed for specific frames and I couldn’t see the benefit.

I’m using a home made Coke can meths burner and windshield, which I’m really pleased with. Seems to boil a mug of water at least as quick as my mates’ gas stoves. Alpkit Mytimug nests in the windshield and stove, lighter and washing up scourer plus a plastic mug live inside the mug.

I’ve added some air/vent holes since this pic.

Love my Buzzard.
Singular Buzzard 002

And, yes, the short chainstays do make that much difference.

Whatever you do, make sure you’re doing some regular exercise. It’ll keep you healthy and sane and make it easier to get back into riding when you want to.

IME sealing right angle seams on heavy duty fabric is a pain in the arse. I haven’t bothered. Anything that needs to be completely dry goes in a separate drybag.

@ Rowlapa1974 – it’s an 18 Inbred.

I’ve made two frame bags, a seat pack and bar harness from heavyweight PU-coated polyester from Pennine Outdoor fabrics. It’s pretty heavy duty and stiff enough to give a bit of form to whatever it is you’re making. Not as light as the fancy materials use by Wildcat, etc but has worked very well for me.

If you’re deliberately moving the bike then you *may* be more in control. Doesn’t necessarily mean you won’t land in a crumpled heap and spend the next 5 minutes making a noise like a dying moose IME.

So it’s gears only?

Answer 20 20 http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/answer-xc-enduro-720-20-20-carbon-bar/rp-prod

I’ve not tried it but it looks good.

I’m interested in this as I’ve just fitted a Fleegle which is a great shape but brutally stiff and fairly lardy.

Seriously impressed with your efforts. Can’t wait to hear a proper ride report.

I’ve used a chain tool to reconnect Shimano chains using the existing pins. They tell you it can’t/shouldn’t be done but IME it can.

Fray Bentos

Peaslake and Winterfold is the main focus of trail building and riding these days but there’s still lots on leith and Holmbury. Conditions are spot-on ATM too. Have fun.

Good work! How smooth do you expect the final finish to be?

I ‘upgraded’ to cartridge hubs years ago but I’ve since realised that the things I didn’t like about Shimano hubs were the poor sealing (M475s) and crappy freewheels (all the ones I used), which I seemed to kill with alarming regularity and which cost more on their own than an (admittedly relatively cheap) entire replacement hub.

Actually, front Shimano hubs pretty much last forever IME; it’s the rears that need careful watching and TLC.

I really like the idea of a quality C&C MTB hub with grease ports and hex key adjustment. Does such a thing exist?

Good work. What’s it made of – aluminium or steel?

Are we really still fretting about wheel sizes? New Cotics = good

I have two pieces of string – one is 5mm diameter, the other is 7mm in diameter. Which one is longer?

Riding rigid has increased my awesome by 5.

Unfortunately, my spuds have taken such a pounding that I now have to wear a kilt.

Same vintage as my first MTB, an 88 Rockhopper, and it shares the same groupset by the look of it. I remember the chainstay-mounted U brake with particular fondness. Combined with the flexy plastic brake levers, it was almost entirely pointless and a complete bastard to set up.

The more I see of this the more I think it’s going to be my next bike.

Don’t really have a main bike but I have lots of kit that’s at least ten years old and in regular use. XT M760 cranks and shifters seem to go on forever. I also have a couple of XT mechs of the same vintage that are still going strong.

I’m also about to take my 2003 (I think) Deore discs off my commuter to go on a new build. I bled them once because I thought I should.

Have you tried switching it off and on again?

Pinnacle Ramin is worth a look. Good geo and value

I’d say having one set of forks lying around doing nothing is a waste. There will be 1 1/8 forks around second hand for a long time yet. Just relax.

I have the Swift fork and like it lots. I’ve briefly tried the Salsa ones and they seem fairly similar.

The new Swift fork will take a 29+ tyre, if that matters to you. Sam said on FB that they’re available separately for £90 IIRC.

Rockshox or X-Fusion would get my vote. Topping up oil in the lowers is quick and easy after the first time and you really don’t need to do it every 25 hours (or anything like). However, it’s not unknown for new forks to come with very little oil in the lowers and once thy run dry they destroy themselves in no time, so check them after the first few rides.