Ditto what Toons said. Started with a 2006 DHX Air on 5 Spot, stuck down, replaced with a Pushed 2008 RP23. Much better.

http://www.masta.org

Specialist travel medicine advice. The wife is one of their specialist travel nurses. Much better quality advice than a GP, IMO.

Apparently the important thing is to catch the thing that bites you and take that to the hospital too.

I think most of the pleasure of having a Ti frame comes from the kudos of owning one rather than it having any measurable qualities over a steel equivalent.

I bought the MG so I could have a great riding bike like my PA but lighter. Principally because I'm lazy and was grateful of the flattery it paid my average levels of fitness.

I half suspect someone to come along and tell me it's not really lighter but I've never weighed anything so am estimating / guessing ;-) Don't even bother arguing about whether it's "significant".

First ride on rebuilt Kobe yesterday. Lovely.

If you ever decide to try a Ti Alpine I will have one.

I doubt I'll be parting with either the Kobe or MG. Grin-factor, skill and fitness compensating wonder bikes as far as I'm concerned :-)

It's the marmite of the trail world.

What Ayatollah said is a pretty good description. Super-tech' XC but without all the tiresome "distance" of an XC ride ;-)

I would go bigger tyre (at least on the front). A big tractor-like one could also help lift the front to compensate for the shorter forks (I'm speculating, you might like the fit but it's just the frame is corrected for up to 160mm and, IIRC, fox tend to be shorter a-c than other brands). Whatever, IMO big front tyres rock – maybe Bontrager Big Earl in 2.5 or (just trying at the mo') a WTB Weirwolf in same size.

I've never been bothered by stem brand / quality. Save the cash and buy whatever makes the bike fit best for least cost. But picking this and a tyre (to a lesser extent) will also depend on what rise your existing bars are. Otherwise it might end up a bit too chopper-ed.

I run an old (and everso slightly bent) Raceface XY post on mine. Like it, definitely needed it for personal fit (32" inside leg, 5'10", above average ape index ;-)) A Salsa Shaft would probably be OK too, but again, you can economise just like the stem. I'd rather save cash on these two and pimp up the chainset, personally.

I don't like V8s and would get something else. Like Kona Wah-Wahs but it's personal preference and whatever can be found in budget.

Sweet bike, hope you like it 8-)

I've got Wah Wahs. No complaints, no problems. I'd buy them again. They're thru-pin versions. I've not needed to use this but I prefer the idea of them to grub screw pins.

I have a Dialled Bikes Holeshot (Mike's 4X frame) for pump track and jumps (or trying to …. ). It's great (old 4" vanillas on the front). Have ridden it around bits of Stainburn as well.

Do I need a separate bike for this – of course not. Is it great – yes :-)

I've wanted / thought about something like this for a while. Seemed a natural choice from LT HTs. Has nothing to do with wanting or even being interested in riding 4X 8-P

Always liked the idea of a Transition Preston (when it first came out with 4 or 5" rockers at the back and up to (IIRC) 6" front. Then they changed it (and the original UK guy was dogy as …). Also really liked the idea of the original Hemlock with a similar 4"/6" option (not that 6" is a must, but the idea of a little bit of rear and bigger up front "makes sense" to me). But they changed it (and the Mk1s had a few issues, apparently).

Not about riding a "4X" bike, just about someone who likes LT HTs wanting a bit more skill compensation without having to run loads of travel at the rear. My interest is more about a good quality rear travel, all day / woods type of bike (basically I can use it all the time, just like LT HTs). Pipedream probably.

Until something really interesting comes along I'll stick to my Ti fetish ;-)

IIRC the travel increase on the Mk2 Hemlock was mostly a change of necessity "forced" on Si, rather than something he planned. I could be wrong ;-/

Jeezus that first pic of the Alpine looks hanging, the second less than helped by the model and despite it being such a lovely looking bike ;-P

Bubski – it still gets ridden as regularly as I manage to ride. Favourite choice of bike when I need to compensate for low fitness and skill (so most of the time then). Still looks as shonky as the day it (finally ;-) arrived from Canuckia. You can miss it as much as you want because I can't see ever giving it back ;-P

Hope life's good with you.

T

Just lent my "normal" BB Tinbred to a mate for a race in Scotland. Doesn't get as much use as it probably should but still going fine.

No pics.

Those pics of Andy's Kobe on Flickr remind me I really must get on with rebuilding mine.

Looking like a spacker on the Stainburn PT / Holeshot:

Bubba / LondonScott's MG still going strong in West Yorkshire as well. Shame I never re-stickered it. Stealth look is good though.

Any use? Can send you the originals if you do want them.

Several pairs of 5.1s (all factory wheels from Hope). Tyres: all sorts but include Bonty big earl, Kenda nevegals, small 8s and blue grooves, Michellin X'trem. Combo of wire and kevlar beads.

Can't ever recall any problems, all done with thumbs. But I've heard the same thing before and seen it on this forum where others have struggled.

Unless you're going to find out the manufaturing tolerances, accurately measure the rims (and the tyres) then you'll never really know what the likely cause is. It might be your strength / technique.

Don't know, not really fussed. If it's a major issue to you get rid and replace. Only simple way to sort the problem IMO. Railing on here about "design faults" will probably amount to nowt.

8-)

Got a small (can't remember exact size) Claude Butler Cape Wrath frame FS if you want it. Comes with seatpost, saddle, seat collar, FM, bars, stem, headset and Rockshox Judy forks. Black

Good nick. Was a mate's but too small for him hence selling.

£120 posted for the lot (or less for collected in Leeds).

timsellors{at}googlemail{dot}com

Pump tracks are pump tracks. Put them wherever you can. Then love and joy will rule the world ;-)

They generally aren't worth driving to but as there's so few at the moment I guess people do. I think the urban things was more about the fact people could squeeze them in your typical (American ;-) backyard.

The shop, which is not being identified because of the ongoing police investigation, was raided on Friday morning. About 35 bikes and parts of bikes were seized.

Coming to a dig day isn't like having to do a day's work for the boss. It can start at 10, finish at 4 with a leisurely lunch in the fresh air etc. You could come and not get very tired at all ;-)

However, the passionate / dedicated ones usually come early, work until the light goes, graft non-stop with 5 minute breaks or until the job's done. Building stuff can be addictive and, once you realise it'll only happen if you do it, you tend to get on with. And not mind being knackered either – bonus!

The OP (Paul – good work fella) is sadly incorrect about the prize draw though. It has happened but I haven't announced the winners yet :hugely embarassed: Yet another job to do …..

A pump track courtesy of Lee McCormack:

Riding:

Articles:

Building: http://www.leelikesbikes.com/wp-content/080109ponypumpoverview.jpg

Riding: http://www.leelikesbikes.com/sneak-peak-giant-pump-sesh-1.html

English style:

All inclusive:

Thread for more: http://singletraction.frankencrank.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2705

MTB specific trail centres are as close to a closed, controlled environment any of us are going to get, so its unsurprising if there's those of us who treat it as such

They probably are as close as we mioght get, but they're a long way from being what most might consider a "closed" environment. There's all sorts of daft buggers – not least bloody riders ;-) – who might be in "the wrong place at the wrong time", IMO.

Talking of "bloody riders" when we were repairing the top of the Descent Line I nearly had some twonk ride into me despite the lads who saw him set off and told him there were others working on the trail lower down.

Mountainbike community my arse ;-)

But that's back to the OP's point about FC land – the Warren Plantation and Norwood are access land under the CROW act. People ahve the right to walk where ever they like in them. That's a legal right – not that they're just allowed by the landowner. How do we manage mtb trails sensibly where walkers have a legal right of access over them?

I asked about having walkers excluded from the MTB trails after a couple of (fairly low key) incidents on the trails. I was informed by FE ranger that it was not their policy to exclude user groups. The header board does state that it's an MTB trail and walkers should take care, avoid, give way or something.

You're right that it is CROW land as they had to apply and sign temporary closures / restrictions during recent felling work.

TBH at Stainburn riders are either going at slow speeds due to it's technical nature or, where it's fast e.g. the Descent Line, it's so open and has pretty good sight lines that this hasn't been a huge issue.

Personally, I take a share and share alike view to trail use, especially given my liberal disregard for access laws / trail categorisations elsewhere ;-) I also ride with the (earlier stated approach) that if you can't see and can't stop you're at fault. I love a good hoon but there's a time and a place. Good riding means looking ahead, for the trail conditions and features at least, but at the same time that means you should know if your sight line has gone or there's a walker / dog / kid etc around.

It's a small world and we all need to share (how trite ;-). We aren't going to get access to everywhere else if at the same time we want to exclude people from "our" playgrounds. And, no, I don't mean organised OAP rambling parties at CyB ;-) But there's a reasonable compromise.

Oh, and IIRC the orienteering actually happened in Norwood Edge side (there were control points and trees sprayed up for a while).

LOL, I'm not going to get all touchy about the PT at Stainburn 8-)

It was the first one we attempted and it's been through umpteen incarnations and re-builds. If you think it's bad now did you ever see it 2 years ago ;-) It's also a bugger to win good material to build with there so it means rebuilds and tweaks are difficult to do. The finer fraction of the soil / sub soil is great stuff but you don't need to go very deep before you're hitting a lot of rock. That makes digging incredibly hard work. Hence why Clixby's (god bless Hugh) put us in the drainage channels, rather than digging them all by hand.

Honestly though, IMO it's a hard track. I can do laps on it though (and like Nick says there's an "easy" and a "hard" direction). Given I'm no great shakes I'd suggest that if you can't or folks you've seen haven't managed it then they probably aren't "getting it" yet, for whatever reason.

Personally I need all the help I can get with rock hard, fast rolling tyres and a dedicated HT. Trying it on a FS with proper knobblies and trail pressures will make it a lot more challenging.

TBH, I'm happy to admit it's not perfect (nothing we've ever built has been ;-) but we have built, or tried to build stuff. We're aware enough (ish) to know when things haven't worked and to learn lessons from that. Hence I think I/we know a lot about what can go wrong. It doesn't necessarily mean we'll always get it right, but it's a bit of a head start and just leaving people to make the same mistakes would seem daft.

Say Hi next time you're up at the woods if you see me. Old bugger, red estate, poor skills, talks a lot 8-)

Would 'no' be the wrong answer? What's wrong with getting out the OS map and finding some fantastic bridleways to ride? Is there really a need to build new (and presumably short) sections of off-road trail to ride on?

The oft repeated mantra about most things MTB: "It's not about need".

If you haven't tried one it's a bit harder to explain. If you have then you either "get" it or you don't. Lee McCormack's site (leelovesbikes.com) gives some good reasons.

I find them fun, challenging, physically knackering (in a way you'd struggle to imagine), good for technique (cornering, conservation of momentum etc) and very social.

Done well they're great. Done not so well they can be insanely frustrating. I have had a hand in several now but, as is often the way in STA, there's more to it than just me, particularly Knacker and Nick.

Ah, thank you. It's a BMX track!

Oh dear, not really.

"Lee McCormack, the God of PT building" … I thought you were Tim!

No way. Just because I talk a lot doesn't mean I know what I'm doing, it's fooled a lot of people ;-)

Lee McCormack, the God of PT building:

http://www.leelikesbikes.com/ebook-welcome-to-pump-track-nation

You need to plan it. If you don't and set lots of people off digging you'll end up with lots of things in the wrong place. Then you'll have to rework lots of stuff.

You need to consider drainage. If it all fills up with the first rain you will cry and the spot will be pants. Do you need to install drainage channels, do you have suitable free draining fill, do you need geotextile?

Are you going to build up, down or both?

Are you going to import, win on site or both? How much muck are you going to need and how are you going to shift it? Mech barrows and mini diggers are wonderful for this (and a good driver for the mini is a godsend).

How are you going to shift the muck? Good (or even just half good) PT's can be very fast. Big enough berms to catch riders can take a fair amount of muck.

Have you got enough tools and are they the right ones (the right tools always make a job much easier)? Do you have enough barrows?

Do you have a budget?

You have email ;-)

Tim
Chairman, SingletrAction
Building a PT last night in Buck Woods and built another in Stainburn.

And like the man says, have you memorised the PT builders bible by Lee McCormack.

PS – Pump Tracks rule 8-)

I bought mine last weekend and there was at least one more pack-of-two on the shelves of the Kirkstall branch, can't say more than that. I think you can check stock levels online with Halfords. IF not there's always the phone ;-)

I recently got two Halfords bike carriers (that mount on the roof bars) for £75 the pair (Leeds store). Gutters and wheel straps F&R plus DT clamp with lock, carrier itself locks to roof bar. The equivalent Thule carrier, on its own, and discounted wsa £70 for just one.

Thule stuff in this respect just seems a blinkin rip off. Bikes stayed on the car to and from Scotland using them so can't see why the extra money is worth spending on Thule TBH

I think the problem is that you've got the impression from somewhere that someone has said it's technical.

Probably got that impression from it being graded red with black sections (IIRC).

I've ridden it a few times, wasn't my cup of tea / type of place.

Azadas:

Expensive, but when you've broken or had the heads slip on a few of the cheap Chillingtons you come to really appreciate their "quality" feel:

http://www.get-digging.co.uk/index.html

Cheap ones are made by Silverline and are pretty good, I've just got tool upgradeitis.

[edit: I suspect these might be the crocodile tools scruff is referring to]

The daddy of shovels (IMO):

Catalogue number p89 on this page:

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Ground+Maintenance/Landscaping+Tools/d250/sd2669

I've used most of the aforementioned tools (except a folding shovel, thank god ;-)

Those bush hooks are ace and I've cut through small trees with them. Got two in a sale for £15.

A pulaski is (IIRC) an axe headed tool with a adze on it's reverse face (set at 90 degrees to the blade).

A (grubbing) mattock is like a pick axe but with a large adze on one face and at 90 degrees on the reverse a bladed pick.

A Mcleod is what you see in the pics and as rare as rocking horsesh1t in this country. We got one from the States years ago and it's been brilliant, except it eventually broke and the welded repair has made it a bit heavier than ideal (but it'll never break again). A guy got some made for us but the heads were in mild steel and the teeth bent to all buggery. If anyone wants to go halves on making them I'm always up for it.

A good shovel makes an amazing difference and my personal favourite is a round nosed, swan neck with 48" (or long ;-) fibre glass handle (no padding like the ones in B&Q, it just slips). The other revelation has been Chillington Hoes or azasdas.

I spent an awful lot of time with a swan neck and chillington building a pump track and used well, in the right conditions they are excellent, back saving, efficient tools.

Oh a barrow is great as well.

Best of luck fitting all or any of that in your pack ;-)

Seeing as you've publcly said *twice* – on this forum and in a pub – basically what he put in the joke letter from you, any decent brief would be giving you a long, hard Paddington Bear stare about now. Because they are charging for their time, and calling the client a bit of an eejit or worse is counter-productive.

LOL, beautifully put 8-)

Are you confusing brake pads in the oven to remove oil contamination with brake rotors?

I had "the Bro in Laws" Summer. Bought an Dialled Alpine (15.5/22), preferred the ride, sold on the Summer. If money is no object and Mike has the size of Alpine you want get one. I appreciate they are not identical, but are similar.

If the Summer fits your budget get that. It's a great ride and whilst feeling odd (to me) at first (slight flip-flop sensation on the steering when climbing steep / twisty stuff) which I put down to the slack HT (with 140 Pikes) I soon adjusted and then didn't notice it.

You sub-consciously adjust to intial peculiarities in bike traits once you've ridden them a bit (IMO).

I'm 5'10" and got a 16" Summer with a high rise, 70mm stem. I've briefly tried a mate's 456 in 18" and found it a bit gate like / high TT. Just bear in mind what / how you want to ride and which size might be best for you. IME go smaller on the Summer.

Saying all that, it's just a facking boike ;-)

Vans – often lower speed limits (commercial classification), often higher insurance costs, just generally more of a PITA for day to day use (often noisier, less comfortable, fewer "mod cons").

I'm not against vans, I'm sure others will argue for them but they're just some points if you need to convince the GF (you poor whipped bugger ;-)

Send it to IMBA, contact CTC. Send all the details to STW, MBUK, MBR, WhatMTB etc and get decent coverage of it. Get some of them to contact the head of whichever organisation it was stopped your mate and ask for quotes as to why such action is being taken.

Sounds totally disproportionate and farcical.

Don't let the w8nkers get away with it.

Kieran (Labrat) at IMBA is a good guy to talk to. Also try Ian Warby at CTC. If they aren't the right guys then they'll know someone who is.

This sort of thing is exactly why (if they work ;-) MTB needs at least some vague form of representative body. Harder for whoever it is responsible to ignore them than it is to disregard you and your mate.

Please let us know what happens.

I can’t be bothered to look but I am *almost* sure if you were able to search the (old) forum you would find more than one post from Hora arguing stuff (particularly secondhand) is worth what someone is prepared to pay for it.

I can’t be bothered to search though. But it would confirm the deep feeling of irony I have about this thread.

LOL

You’re joking, shirley?