And if you can’t attend, feel free to use our all new donation / membership via Paypal:

https://www.paypal.com/uk/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_flow&SESSION=EPGD1NDqWdfwSuEWSnfT0-4umj-igcFAsbaurpG4z1xH40eB9AzsK2ENsmC&dispatch=5885d80a13c0db1f8e263663d3faee8dc18bca4c6f47e633b393e284a5f8a8f8

All this northshore timber doesn’t just grow on trees y’know ;-)

northshore isn’t massivley well maintained

NS has recently (last volunteer trailbuilding day in September and planned for this October’s 3rd) been worked on to improve durability and grip. Details and photographs can be found here (you need to scroll down about halfway through the thread to Knacker’s posts:

http://singletraction.frankencrank.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3302

Had a good day today didn’t get much trail built to speak of but did some essential maintenance to the north shore.

We removed all the chicken (and other) wire from all the shore as this was all damaged and provided not grip any more and have replaced with a combination of some deck board (as used on the coal chute) and some fresh larch boards which had been treated with grip paint courtesy of Stuart the FE ranger.

Also did some repairs to the structure which has seen better days but all is safe and secure.

Stuart had requested we replace one of the last planks before the see saw so this was swapped out for a new one with grip paint so the section should be much more ridable in all weathers now. Fingers crossed we can get some more planks with paint from FE and make a few more alterations and new sections to the NS.

Oh and swapped out a few rungs on the see saw for the deck board to give it a little more grip

Thanks to

Knacker
Wannabrew
Cheeky
Ell
Adam B

and

It was may do some more trail TLC next month on either Boulder or Norwood to get ready for the wet weather!

I didn’t have a look at the extension but looked good a few weeks ago.

Tim and Stuart had a good look round the whole site as Stuart needed to do an inspection and the only issues I’m aware of are due to unauthorised building in Norwood some of which was being done as Stuart was walking around!! Stuart also removed some of these features but Ill leave Tim to write that report.

A few photos from the day here:

http://www.singletraction.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=32

Turns out PJ had some of the deck board left over which we had forgotten about as we wanted to see how it faired before using elsewhere. He still has quite a bit left so will be trying to pick it up and install before the next dig day.

So there you go, volunteers tirelessly working to improve the riding experience for MTBers ;-)

Durrrr! typist failure on my part ;-)

Cheers Si

There’s a volunteer trailbuilding day on Sunday and there’ll be plenty of people around to ask directions / get pointers. Brief details here:

http://singletraction.frankencrank.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3345

However, one of the jobs includes work to the NS so that will be closed for some of the day.

This is a relatively accurate map of the trails on the same side of the car park (Norwood Edge car park just off the Pateley Bridge Road (B6451):

[imghttp://www.singletraction.co.uk/projects/Stainburn/maps/map-spon.jpg[/img]. The NS is in the bottom RH corner of the map. If you’re in the car park, head out between the two large marker posts and bear left into the deep, dark woods (on the black trail). There’s plenty of markers and trail to follow after that.

I don’t have much to add as this is all fairly familiar territory / comments about the trail I’ve been involved in building (with many of the other contributors to this thread) for several years.

It is a marmite-type place though, which is more a result of rider-preference than on its design or quality of construction. It isn’t for everyone or a repetition of a “traditional” trail centre format. In my opinion it’s the better for that.

If it was your first visit I’d suggest going back again for another try. Once the mind starts adjusting to the way it needs to be ridden things often start to get easier / more fun (for those that like that kind of thing).

8-)

If I see something on Classifieds that I’ve seen elsewhere or new for a “reasonable amount less” (highly subjective I know) then there’s a good chance I’ll post a link to the cheaper item.

Ridiculous e.g. someone is selling an XT cassette for £50 and I know CRC are doing the same one for £40. I’d post a link to CRC in the FS ad.

Why?

Because it’s what I’d like to know if I wasn’t that familiar with all the various outlets / prices etc.

Occassionally it’s p1ssed a seller off. Bad luck. You want to ask a “high” price on a “classifieds” section that is largely based on goodwill then tough t1tty if someone else comes along and shows goodwill, whether it’s to you or the seller.

There’s an element of subjectivity in it and just because I see something I think is over-priced I’d rarely say anything. But if I know someone can buy new, cheaper elsewhere then I think it’s fair game.

For a coupel of quid though who cares?

Still waiting for an answer. Two appearances since the question was asked and no reply, not particularly impressed.

Oi princess, your carriage is here ;-P

Blimey though, in 15 hrs surely you could have emailed him to ask about the postage?

Echo all the positive things people have said above. Easy, cheap, great fun for hte kids, pretty practical. Nip up the clamp ont he kid’s bike as they tend to loosen and you get the “slant”. For the money I can’t see why you wouldn’t.

Only used mine so far on a CNOC14 (or is it 16) but he was fine on it.

My old Alpine, which possibly appears more than once in this thread – who bought a purple alpine off me?

If that’s Simon from EBC in Chapel A it was me. Sadly thieved by scrotes :-(

http://www.singletraction.org.uk and anything else I'm daft enough to get myself into.

I like what I do, on balance, and don't think too hard about why I do it. When it's not good enough fun overall I'll probably do less.

Folks do as little or as much as they fancy. You can't guilt someone into it (well, you can, but it's fruitless and unsustainable in the long run).

Like everyone else says, MacLeod is what you're probably after. Tampers tend to be heavier, harder work and a smaller face area.

I find Macleods work fine as far as the unavoidable compromises inherent in a tool that's designed to do several things (rake, tamp, scrape, dig). A good chillington hoe / azada is also very useful in the right situation, as is a long handled (48"), round point, swan neck shovel. Anything long handled is a bonus TBH (saves the back ;-)

Just like the bike you ride or the tyre you run though, the right tool for you will depend on what you're digging through and what you're trying to build.

I could go on for hooooouuuurrrrssss ……………….. zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

8-)

We had the council rat man round who said he couldn't see any signs and they were likely to be mice or squirrels. Oh do fark orf! I know a rat when I see it.

Nowt wrong with doing it yourself. Hell, it's even economically admirable that you're not burdening the poor local authority ;-)

My comments (form another thread "Garage Security"):

Cheeky Monkey – Member
I got burgled recently through a stable type door in the side of my garage.

They unscrewed the door handle, chiselled across the timber frame of the door (not the door frame, they tried to prize that out of the building portal but failed), levered the timber covering the sash lock body away and then levered the sash lock out so the keeper etc snapped. All at 4 am with us in the house only a few metres away.

Once they had the top half of the door open (there was a deadlock in the bottom section of the stable door as well) they hopped over and in. 48" bolt croppers used to cut both sides of a link of 11mm Pragmasis security chain (didn't touch the shielded hasp Squire padlock).

IMO, get rid of the stable door, they're shite There was a diddy bolt between the two halves on mine but with the inherent flex once one half was open it just popped / bent.

Otherwise, screw the whole thing together with ply or steel / mesh. Even if you get a solid door board / mesh it so it is harder to simply kick / pry through. At least put in some big, lockable bolts to keep the two halves together.

Fit a steel outer door with a good padlock and well set fixings that they have to get through before they can work on the timber door.

Make sure the frame is secure (star bolt fixings) into the building portal. You want enough to be secure but not too many (lots of screws / locks etc can just make things weaker, sometimes).

If there's a window or view into the garage block it (old sheets are good) it adds uncertainty to the speculative burglar.

I would have at least a sash lock and deadlock in the door mounted at thirds of the height / into the main door sections.

Fit a metal plate over the door surface where the locks are and round out the screw heads. That way they have to get through something harder than softwood timber to get to the lock body. If you need you could always drill out the screws (as could burglar) but it's more time and effort.

Chain the bikes up inside the garage, yet more things for them to get through. Always keep the chain up as high as possible. Common trick to use longhandled croppers is to put one arm on ground and jump / throw body weight onto the upper arm to give enough force to cut even the strongest chains. It's on youtube somewhere.

Make the lock as inaccessible as possible.

Use a ground anchor (properly fitted) or like I did chain them all together. In hindsight I wish I'd had a couple of heavier duty chains than the single but long one that locked all mine together. Once a link was cut they had access to them all.

Install an alarm. Once they're in a garage they're out of sight and have more time and opportunity to crack whatever secondary security (chains etc) you have. If an alarm is blaring it's more likely they won't try in the first place or won't have time (and probably don't need long) to get through chains etc.

If you've got an alarm use it. You always get hit when you don't expect it (been Tuesday and Thursday early am in rainy weather for me). Get the alarm rigged so you can have it on in the garage almost all the time.

I know a shop that was robbed of several bikes with the scrotes in and out in less than a minute.

Get outside lights so there's less cover for them whilst they're forcing the door.

If you can put in a gate to your drive / access / whatever with a lock. If they come calling they've got to get over / through / round it to get in and out (with bikes). Use padlocks with shields to the hasp so it can't easily be cropped.

Look at everything you've done. Think that, if you didn't care what state it was left in, how easy it might be to break in. Then just accept that there's a good chance you'll never have enough to beat a determined and vaguely able burglar. Unless it's a steel door with some massive security a sledge hammer will get you in through most things. Failing that it's usually possible to lift a few roof tiles to get inside the garage.

Don't under-estimate the cheer cheek and brazen-ness of the scum. Also, what are you going to do if you know they're breaking in and there's three of them? Go down and confront them (whilst they've got chisels and screwdrivers). Up to you but bear it in mind.

Consider the cost of all this, the insurance etc and decide what you can afford / is worth paying for.

Only my ideas / stuff I've done / plan to do. Others opinions and experience may vary.

There's some awful snobbery, sectarianism and cobblers on this thread ;-)

Bikes, riding – it's all good 8-)

"heavy feet, light hands"

Lee McCormack

Every time I use a motorway I really am stunned by the stupidity of some drivers though…

Everytime I read one of your threads I'm stunned by the banality and arrogance of some of your posts ……

See what I did there :-P

Alpin – why did you give us it all in German?

i then gave a speech …

oic ;-P

Have orderd some (with DB spoke upgrade). Will see how they work out.

Braking bumps (in my mind) are the product of folks braking hard into a section of trail (be it a berm or whatever) and the resulting "corrugation" of the trail surface due to erosion. They aren't a designed thing. I think the folks talking about the diddy triple or whatever it is are discussing a "bad" feature, not braking bumps.

BB's are the result of a number of factors either occuring individually or more often, IMO, as a combination. Some of these factors are within the control of various parties; trail designers, builders and riders.

E.g.

Even with the most perfect trail, someone going to fast and braking hard (subjective) into a feature, typically a berm or corner will start / exacerbate / make massive BB's.

or

A trail which flips "character" between sections that encourage speed and then tight, slow speed features / turns is likley to exacerbate the forming of BBs.

or

If a trail builders doesn't armour (say rock slabs or really well compacted surfacing) on the approach into a feature where riders are likley to be braking hard then this makes it more vulnerable to BB formation.

To lay it all at a designers door is unfair and incorrect.

Also, living in the real world of trail design and building, life is full of compromises be they restrictions on space, materials, cash, rioder skills etc.

AHwiles seems to assume as well that given perfect trail design this would solve all BB issues. IMO this would only occur if you also had perfect (not necesssarily highly skilled, just perfectly competent) riders.

And back in the real world …… ;-)

Tim, building fast / slow, tight / open, good / bad trails in Yorkshire with SingletrAction for a few years 8-)

Them plier things is cheating, just like tyre levers ;-)

Still, I do love my headset press 8-)

Be careful not to fall Into there bullshit or leave the wife at home when you go to view.

How very true 8-)

The local SingletrAction guys tried and failed with develoments in Wharncliffe. I aly a lot of this at the door of the beat forester who did not want to seem to engage and a number of other FE related factors. Such is life and one of the downs in the ups-and-downs of this sort of thing. To say I (and all the locals) think FE were missing a HUGE trick goes without saying.

Also, not that I'm particularly agreeing with podge but both woods have a long history and a big existing contingent of builders and users. Whenever anything was tried in Wharncliffe the amount of anti sentiment from other riders was pretty major and a hard thing to deal with, especially as it tended to be voiced / discussed on the internet (great medium ;-) whilst also being "amended" physically, on site.

Winning those guys over without the support of FE and any proposals getting sanctioned justs made life even harder.

Again, crazy when you think about the site, it's potential and the fact it's Peaty's backyard.

I sure hope Greno is a success and have offered our help if it's of use.

Podge – this is a gret little read about advocacy:

How to be an Effective Campaigner
Based on a note from Jim Hasenauer. President IMBA (US)

One of the most frustrating things for me has been dealing with anti-bike zealots whose ideology gets in the way of any dialogue. We bike advocates also have to be mindful of how we pursue our work, and the following notes from the Libertarian website puts it pretty clearly, so I though I'd pass it on. One of the things I'm most proud of is IMBA's and mountain bike advocate's reputation as being positive, responsible and high road. — Jim Hasenauer.
Gresham's Law of Activists
There are some people in the libertarian movement who are bad activists. Even though they may be "OK" ideologically, they do not forward the cause of freedom. Even if they do make positive contributions, on balance they actually harm the movement. It is not always easy to spot a bad activist at first glance. No one is perfect and many outstanding activists slip into bad habits from time to time. Nonetheless, the bad activist tends to be remarkably consistent. Virtually every bad activist puts his or her personal or factional) interests ahead of the purpose of the organization or cause. The good activist expresses his or her individuality through the choice of joining the organization if it identifies with his or her personal interests. The bad activist will sacrifice the interest of the organization for power, status, enrichment, or some other form of short-term ego gratification. It is harder to be a good activist than a bad one. But campaigners need to achieve a real "gold standard of activists" to defeat Gresham's Law of Activists and not put up with bad behavior.

How to spot a bad activist as opposed to a good activist:
THE GOOD ACTIVIST

Tries to be reasonable, polite, and considerate.
Is more concerned about getting results and is anxious to give credit to others as a way to encourage them to continue what they are doing.
Is basically modest and recognizes the importance of cooperation of others.
Wants other activists to participate in the decision process whenever possible & to understand what is being done and why.
Is always interested in new ideas and encourages involvement by others.
Tries to disagree without becoming personal or being disagreeable.
Is very uncomfortable with factions and is reluctant to condemn even the worst bad activist, but will do so if necessary to limit the damage.
Is inclined to recognize good work by anyone and ignore the rest.
Keeps criticism to a minimum and always has positive suggestions.
Is inclined to give people the benefit of the doubt, does not get upset with inadvertent and unintentional slights, and will forgive even intentional acts if the person shows he or she regrets the action.
THE BAD ACTIVIST

Tends to be argumentative, insulting, obnoxious, and is indifferent to the effect her or she has on others.
Tries to take credit for any accomplishments, even ones which are primarily the results of someone else's efforts.
Has delusions of grandeur and makes sure everyone is aware of his or her titles and status.
Tends to be secretive and cliquish.
Never listens to what other people have to say.
Reacts to any disagreement with angry outbursts, condemnations, or personal attacks. Is quite willing to disrupt meetings and alienate bystanders in the process.
Tends toward factionalism and is inclined to purge activists who are not included in the faction.
Is constantly critical of anything done by people in opposing factions.
Devotes considerable time and effort to criticizing other people in the organization.
Is constantly being "offended" and is inclined to hold grudges.

From here: [http]http://www.imba.org.uk/research_and_reports/EffectiveCampaigning.html[/http]

Just shy of £1.5k for the frame only. Blimey :-O

I think they're incredibly expensive and not worth the money. However, they're photographs (often of nearest and dearest) and it's incredibly subjective as to what represents "good value".

Venture run a very slick operation designed to separate you from your cash. If you can resist this and decided solely on price etc then go for it. Nothing usually costs until you have to buy the pictures (and they will show you umpteen on a big projector screen with low lighting, free drinks and ambient tunes). If you have a wife etc and kids prepare to be absolutely fleeced (IME).

I've had better pictures that I've actually owned the rights to from other photographers for a lot less money than Vultures charged me for a few poxy prints in their cheapest frames ;-)

the correct usage for polite and mannered people in a civilised society is to answer back.

I'm sorry but you're French aren't you ;-)

In answer to the OP's question. Last time I had the pleasure of SOCO and dusting powder the officer advised washing up liquid (neat) on a cloth to remove it. Depends on the surface.

I got burgled recently through a stable type door in the side of my garage.

They unscrewed the door handle, chiselled across the timber frame of the door (not the door frame, they tried to prize that out of the building portal but failed), levered the timber covering the sash lock body away and then levered the sash lock out so the keeper etc snapped. All at 4 am with us in the house only a few metres away.

Once they had the top half of the door open (there was a deadlock in the bottom section of the stable door as well) they hopped over and in. 48" bolt croppers used to cut both sides of a link of 11mm Pragmasis security chain (didn't touch the shielded hasp Squire padlock).

IMO, get rid of the stable door, they're shite ;-) There was a diddy bolt between the two halves on mine but with the inherent flex once one half was open it just popped / bent.

Otherwise, screw the whole thing together with ply or steel / mesh. Even if you get a solid door board / mesh it so it is harder to simply kick / pry through. At least put in some big, lockable bolts to keep the two halves together.

Fit a steel outer door with a good padlock and well set fixings that they have to get through before they can work on the timber door.

Make sure the frame is secure (star bolt fixings) into the building portal. You want enough to be secure but not too many (lots of screws / locks etc can just make things weaker, sometimes).

If there's a window or view into the garage block it (old sheets are good) it adds uncertainty to the speculative burglar.

I would have at least a sash lock and deadlock in the door mounted at thirds of the height / into the main door sections.

Fit a metal plate over the door surface where the locks are and round out the screw heads. That way they have to get through something harder than softwood timber to get to the lock body. If you need you could always drill out the screws (as could burglar) but it's more time and effort.

Chain the bikes up inside the garage, yet more things for them to get through. Always keep the chain up as high as possible. Common trick to use longhandled croppers is to put one arm on ground and jump / throw body weight onto the upper arm to give enough force to cut even the strongest chains. It's on youtube somewhere.

Make the lock as inaccessible as possible.

Use a ground anchor (properly fitted) or like I did chain them all together. In hindsight I wish I'd had a couple of heavier duty chains than the single but long one that locked all mine together. Once a link was cut they had access to them all.

Install an alarm. Once they're in a garage they're out of sight and have more time and opportunity to crack whatever secondary security (chains etc) you have. If an alarm is blaring it's more likely they won't try in the first place or won't have time (and probably don't need long) to get through chains etc.

If you've got an alarm use it. You always get hit when you don't expect it (been Tuesday and Thursday early am in rainy weather for me). Get the alarm rigged so you can have it on in the garage almost all the time.

I know a shop that was robbed of several bikes with the scrotes in and out in less than a minute.

Get outside lights so there's less cover for them whilst they're forcing the door.

If you can put in a gate to your drive / access / whatever with a lock. If they come calling they've got to get over / through / round it to get in and out (with bikes). Use padlocks with shields to the hasp so it can't easily be cropped.

Look at everything you've done. Think that, if you didn't care what state it was left in, how easy it might be to break in. Then just accept that there's a good chance you'll never have enough to beat a determined and vaguely able burglar. Unless it's a steel door with some massive security a sledge hammer will get you in through most things. Failing that it's usually possible to lift a few roof tiles to get inside the garage.

Don't under-estimate the cheer cheek and brazen-ness of the scum. Also, what are you going to do if you know they're breaking in and there's three of them? Go down and confront them (whilst they've got chisels and screwdrivers). Up to you but bear it in mind.

Consider the cost of all this, the insurance etc and decide what you can afford / is worth paying for.

Only my ideas / stuff I've done / plan to do. Others opinions and experience may vary.

Islabike if it fits.

Come the revolution you're the first one up against the wall Jon-boy ;-)

Trekster – Karl is still IMBA Chairman but due to step down at AGM. You could try him but I would also contact Paddy Harrop (IMBA Treasurer).

You going to go to the AGM in September?

With the advent of CDM regs and how they are interpreted also impacts on "volunteers" and how they are covered by ins.

I really don't want to go off on one here BUT (and a search in my profile will find a few threads where I've been going on about the Regs and their implications) there is no good reason why CDM should present any problems to volunteer trail builders. Anyone that waves them in your face to prevent working is, IMO, using it as a smokescreen, doesn't understand the Regs or hasn't properly considered the appropriate H&S implications in the first place.

IMO there is absolutely no good reason for any form of H&S legislation to significantly impact or preclude volunteer trail building work. That's not to say stuff doesn't apply but it's the application of common sense to avoid people getting hurt, not some deep dark mysterious science ;-)

<must resist desire to rant>

;-)

Have a look in my profile, I got done a couple of weeks ago north of Leeds. Some helpful suggestions in there.

Bag of arse ain't it!

EDIT based on that other thread: Not to take issue with Cheeky's knowledge, but I'm 90% sure that BTCV insurance (through Zurich) is still available to new groups and not just existing ones.

Feel free to correct me where I'm wrong :-) Never thought I was the fount of all knowledge, honest.

I don't mind helping to set all of this up, but this does feel a lot of hassle for something that has been running previously with no issues!

Common situation with FE, I'm not having a dig at them but we've had it on a number of occassions. You talk to one person, agree, sort everything out and build it. Then someone else comes along with a different view, time passes and their standpoint changes etc and it all / part has to come out / been cancelled / no longer allowed.

WARNING – you are entering a potential world of pain

Yep, couldn't agree more. But we / volunteers have achieved things. I think there could be more achieved, more easily, with a more positive approach from FE but hey, they've umpteen other things to do too.

just wondering how those groups kept going in the face of beaurocratic tape and paperwork?

Lots of people don't. The frustration and long timescales see a high number of volunteers burnt out by it all. I suspect having a thick skin, not going off on one (at the wrong moment with the wrong people, I'm no saint) and just trying to be positive and constructive all help. Or maybe I'm just daft ;-)

Don't underestimate the funding crisis. I expect absolutely bugger all cash, staff time, inclination will be given by FE to trail building projects in the foreseeable future (I deal with a couple of local authorities through work). However, this *might* be an opportunity for us to show what can be achieved without everyone defaulting to "get the contractors" / "pros" in. I have nothing against them (pros) but all we (volunteers) cost is hardcore and tools and we achieve plenty (ish) without the overheads, profit and heavy plant).

I gave a talk at IMBA's last AGM which touched on issues volunteer groups can have with FE (and the "MTB community" ;-) ). It didn't gete widely publicised but can be found here:

http://www.imba.org.uk/uploads/misc/SingletrAction_Seminar.pdf

Don't know if it's of any interest or use. Just my opinion as well.

Best of luck with it and if I can help or you want to talk about stuff feel free to get in touch.

You might be worth asking IMBA for financial support to cover the first year (or whatever) of the required insurance? We're lucky in that FE pay for ours 8-) They ain't all bad ;-)

Tim
chairman@singletraction.org.uk

Dig, ride, BBQ.

It's the only way to get over the loss of all my [favourite] bikes ;-)

Good on him for doing something.

Impossible to comment on it with out riding it and you're a bit out of my neck of the woods. However, in the pic above, the berm on the RHS (big one) doesn't *seem* to have a roller in or out of it?

From the pic it *looks* big, pedally and jumpy. That's not my idea of a PT, more a BMX track / jump loop. Not that it doesn't look fun 8-) PT's to me are tracks where you only need to put a few crank turns in then it's possible to ride round and round using only pump (effectively chainless). A good, fast track might involve some jumping (see McCormacks Bible and the progression of techniques to develop mega-speed).

Whatever though, anything someone's got off their ass and done themselves is good in my book 8-)

I rest it wrapped in foil, at least the juices lost are trapped and make a nice "jus" :rolleyes: (i.e. gravy).

Plenty of pepper before cooking but no salt until on the plate (thought it helped meat to lose mositure, cooked or not).

Smoking gridle pan with meat only moved the once (to flip over). Bit of light pressure with a fish slice / pallete knife so it's all in contact with the ridges of the pan.

Agree about taking it out of fridge first too, let it watm up a bit.

Feel for you fella, got done myself last week in the similar area. They seem to have been on a spree round Leeds recently (have hit shop nearby and bunch of other punters).

If I could keep it somewhere better I would.

House and garage now sporting alarms, d2d lighting plus more locks and chains to come.

TBH though, as my neighbour the builder pointed out, if they want in they'll get there, just go in through the roof.

Hope your insurance is up to it, I know the £3k limit on outbuildings nas caught me out – stupid mistake.

Try getting in touch with the newsdesk at Yorkshire Evening Post, they ran a piece on it yesterday about mine being nicked. Who knows, someone might pick it up a bit and link some of the thefts together.

All veery well the coppers saying it won't be investigated (apparently often dismissive of thefts from outbuildings) but when there's this much (apparently) going on maybe they'll look into it a bit further.

Any chance of you dropping me a line with your crime number and details, in case I contact police?

timsellors@googlemail.com

My personal favourite, very durable and razor sharp.

I wouldn' leave one of these lying around though and woe betide if yhe rozzers stop you ;-)

Yep, what Tom said. Pruning is good though and improving drainage almost is almost always a positive thing to do.

I favour bush-hooks over secateurs, but then again I've brashed through the middle of FE plantations (with permission ;-). However, they do tend to be perceived a little bit more in the "offensive weapon category".

I'm not so sure about a rake though. If it's to clear trail debris and organic then a boot edge / stick is often sufficient. Once you get rid of some overhanging trees and other vegetation the amount of stuff landing on a trail usually decreases.

A chillington hoe / Azada is a great piece of kit for a lot of trail work but you'd probably struggle to carry one of those as well ;-)

As me and PJ have helped Matt plan a potential route out and it was on the basis of the assumptions I wrote then I can only assume Matt's description is not entirely accurate / representative.

Then again, in his mind he might be thinking of something designed and built with bike riding in mind rather than anything else.

Dunno!

I'm not really bothered who's promoting it as, if it happens, I think it could be great. There's umpteen ways it could go awry or doom could be foretold but sod it, it's just bike tracks and a few more would be nice.

Myheadashed – send me an email, I can't see yours :-)

Have stuck it on the SingletrAction forum as well for you.