If the nas is that old & the plan is to migrate to a newer 4+ bay soon, might it not be better to get that nas now & plan a staged migration rather than increase the data footprint that you’ll have to migrate again in a few weeks-months?

You could then look at options to use the old nas as a simple backup jbod array if that helps

Not properly as there is no handoff between them. It’s a bit of a bodge.

What hand off are you expecting them to have?

Generally wifi roaming is heavily client controlled.

If a accesspoint has the same ssid/pw combination devices can move from ap to ap as signal strength changes, but it’s the client that generally manage this.

There is some management in newer wifi6 platforms which allow accesspoints to set minimum signal strength thresholds that doesn’t force a client to use another node it simply prevents it hanging onto a node with poor signal strength.

I found if i turned the VM hub to modem mode the ethernet ports on the back stopped working, so I just turn off the WiFi under advacne>wireless (or something) and have my Mesh system plugged into the router, along with various other etherneted things.

That’s because it’s a aio modem/fw/router/switch/accesspoint & when you enable modem mode it’s a modem.

6 is better than 5, hot spares rule.
Drives from different build batches are good, from different manufacturers better.
Always keep a backup.

Thanks!
So where does this connect, in one of the ethernet ports in your mesh system?

Do you have any notable issues with the fact that it means some devices are not connected to the same network as the phone that you might want to control them through? I *think* most of ours should be ok, but things like Sonos are only controllable by a device on the same network.

They generally need to be on the same subnet, you can have multiple ssid’s using the same subnet. I suspect Cougar has simply set the box up as a accesspoint on the same subnet as the main ssid is on.

interesting, but surely only necessary because the Asus router is, despite being pricey, a bit crap at doing it’s job!? FWIW the Unifi UDR I got recently has zero problems with my (many) cheapo WiFi devices, and doesn’t really cost that much more than the £200 Asus + travel router

It’s generally the wifi clients that are a bit carp & force the split of ssid’s, on more prosumer devices like the Omada or unifi & likely Cougar’s asus you can have multiple ssid’s per accesspoint so you could well solve it simply by spinning up a IoT dedicated 2.4GHz ssid.

Never a easy thing to deal with especially with young one in the house, my sympathies

Someone mentioned the tp-link Omada range, it’s likely not for you as all the various services that are present in a aio ‘router’ such as fw/router, management console, switch & wifi access point are different components.

I’d head over to routertrack world & see what the rate that fits your budget. Note they are us based so there could be some regional discrepancies.
https://www.smallnetbuilder.com/tools/rankers/wifi-router/view

That said the unifi dream router is also likely a good shout.

This might be of interest

The deco m5 is a dual channel mesh, meaning it has only a 2.4 & 5 GHz radio, the 5GHz is shared between client use & backhaul use meaning you are performance limited on that frq.

Tri band mesh use 2 5GHz radio one for client the other for backhaul meaning you have dedicated bandwidth for each traffic type.

As said, running batteries on trickle charge is going to be an expensive exercise.

Either do it properly or not at all.

Not so much these days.

As long as it doesn’t require coding to the ‘new’ car

I guess it depends on what’s in there contract/t&c’s.

You could argue that as they are unable to come at the previously cancelled slot that they’ve filled that time with another job & therefore aren’t out of pocket & you’d like your payment back, but it depends on the contract details, if you want to use them again, if they brought materials for the home & how much money we’re talking.

There are a number of e-ink tablets on the market that might be of interest, they are often considered more ‘natural’ than a glossy iPad screen

Remarkable 2 was the first that came to mind but there are a few options now.

Perhaps they are not the solar installation company you are looking for…

Would this not come under a party wall agreement?

Remember

Use the charging cable to connect to the pc, it’s generally faster than using wifi between devices & will keep the phone charged while you do so.

Definitely test beforehand, we had a internet outage the other day & my wfh wife couldn’t work because her new phone needed a update downloading before she could use it for tethering.

Fridge door hinge bush, the original is made of plastic & disintegrated. Now the door won’t shut properly & beer isn’t staying cold.

Bodge was a silicone sealant nozzle trimmed to fit the door socket.

Not a true bodge as I brought a couple of new bushes to replace it.

Have you compared the price to the official Apple U.K. refurbished site?

I’ve had a couple of bits from there and been as good as new.

Port to voip while abroad, use a sw voip client on your mobile to allow cheap calls to / from his U.K. number

Local sim for local calls & mobile broadband

https://www.aa.net.uk/voice-and-mobile/number-porting/mobile-porting/

Port back to U.K. mobile provider when back in U.K.

Obviously don’t take my word and contact the voip provider to confirm this works as you want…

If you have to get one today you are going to be limited to what stock is local.

Perhaps it would be easier for you to tell us what options you have available to buy now?

Stock for collection will show on most if not all of the likely retailers.

5G routers are quite expensive iirc ~£350 start point.

The main unit is in the lounge, with others in dining room, garage, utility (annexe) and office (annexe). The way the mesh has optimised itself is for the dining room one to connect to the main one, but it’s a pretty weak signal thanks to aforesaid walls, then all the rest daisy-chain off the dining room one. All the connections from dining room onwards are pretty strong. There’s no real scope for moving where the units are, especially the main one.

So, my thought is to powerline the main one to the one in the dining room, in order to remove the weak link in the chain. Can I do this with a ‘standard’ powerline adaptor?

Maybe, most likely, depends on the specific model.

Buy the powerline from Amazon & if No works send it back.

RIP Eric, your oomans miss you

Depends. With traditional APs some devices have a real love of trying to cling to AP A for every last drop of signal even though AP B is coming through much more strongly as you move through the zones. It can be a real PITA.

With Mesh it proactively hands off from AP A to AP B when B is the more preferable in terms of signal strength.

It’s more complicated than that, the majority of the logic for wifi roaming remains within the client device. Prosumer ap’s such as Omada & unifi have controls that let you tune the minimum signal strength for a client to connect among other parameters, mesh systems generally have the same type of setup but might not expose the ability to tune these parameters.

This is a repost from another thread but stands good for this too.

You need to think where you have a concentration of wired devices such as where your bt/virgin line comes in, home office, bedrooms, media hubs (where your tv, sky box av amp are), pc games room? And where you are going to run the cables too (mine is in the loft but that’s where the bt line and my switches and ap are)

Copied content:
Everyone’s experience of mesh systems will differ & they tend to be I brought this & it’s brilliant…

Tp-link do a mesh system that uses powerline as the backhaul link between nodes, I believe it’s the deco m9 but you’d have to check.

Personally assuming you have power in your loft I’d consider running a ethernet cable from your router/modem to the loft and install some tp-link Omada access points and a small poe switch in the loft.

Because the ap’s are suspended well above the walls it allows the wifi radios to form a beam that radiates downwards through the ceiling and floors more evenly rather that being blocked by walls.

For example we have a 3 bed, detached 1900’s property with a open plan gf with a rear extension at least three sizeable steels and most internal walls are brick.
I cover the whole property & garden with a single tp-link eap225 ap along with a few other switch/router bit of kit.

Let me know if this kind of installation is of interest. The Omada range is very much the logical equivalent of unifi but with a much lower price point & they also have external ap’s

Oh and re your external access point question, unless you have provision for a water proof external power source your drilling a hole for power at a minimum.

I’ve a jura impressa j9 one touch for ~8 years now, always used the water filters, only one fault, a thermo sensor which i replaced myself.

Only downside is I found the automatic milk steamer didn’t get the milk hot enough for me. Got a induction milk jug & all good.

Would replace it with another jura if it failed but perhaps coffee only

If the change to a common ssid has your poweline ap’s working well now it might not be worth changing.

If you just want a external ap tp link do the eap225-outdoor @ ~£80, it needs a single ethernet cable to one of the existing powerline ap’s (assuming they have ethernet ports?) and should come with a poe injector to send power down the same cable.

https://www.broadbandbuyer.com/products/33345-tp-link-eap225-outdoor/

If you wanted to go for loft mounted ap’s then it’s

Optional management box, you can run software on your Mac/pc/Linux box to manage the devices or use this dedicated unit
https://www.broadbandbuyer.com/products/33134-tp-link-oc200/

Optional router, you can just use the switches/ap’s or have the routing/fw in Omada too
https://www.broadbandbuyer.com/products/44146-tp-link-er605-cloud/

Switch
8 ports with poe so it will power the ap’s and controller
https://www.broadbandbuyer.com/products/44765-tp-link-tl-sg2210p-v5-0-cloud/

Ap’s
Depending on size of property I’d start with 2 and increase if needed
https://www.broadbandbuyer.com/products/44098-tp-link-eap225-cloud/

External ap as above if needed.

Everyone’s experience of mesh systems will differ & they tend to be I brought this & it’s brilliant…

Tp-link do a mesh system that uses powerline as the backhaul link between nodes, I believe it’s the deco m9 but you’d have to check.

Personally assuming you have power in your loft I’d consider running a ethernet cable from your router/modem to the loft and install some tp-link Omada access points and a small poe switch in the loft.

Because the ap’s are suspended well above the walls it allows the wifi radios to form a beam that radiates downwards through the ceiling and floors more evenly rather that being blocked by walls.

For example we have a 3 bed, detached 1900’s property with a open plan gf with a rear extension at least three sizeable steels and most internal walls are brick.
I cover the whole property & garden with a single tp-link eap225 ap along with a few other switch/router bit of kit.

Let me know if this kind of installation is of interest. The Omada range is very much the logical equivalent of unifi but with a much lower price point & they also have external ap’s

Oh and re your external access point question, unless you have provision for a water proof external power source your drilling a hole for power at a minimum.

Teasmaid, or instant boiler + coffee bags

Can’t comment on the cost effectiveness

But these devices exist to divert in used solar power to the immersion element rather than to grid

MyEnergi Eddi & iBoost solar diverters

That’s put a smile on my face today, glad to hear she’s doing well

Shirley you can’t be serious

And then there’s Brother Ray

Who could forget Sammy?

Might be helpful to give the fritzbox model number, I believe they do both adsl2 & cable versions, though as you have the HG612 then you simply use that as your modem if you have the cable router fritzbox

wiring diagram for your radio

https://www.sony.com/electronics/support/res/manuals/4480/44806561M.pdf

You can ether use the built in amps to the speakers you or I suggested

And you have pre and sub outs so you can add amps and a under seat sub too should you want or keep what you have and try adding a sub.

Just a question of how much you want to spend

Imagine a world where you told us what make, model and age of van it was and the make and model of head unit, that might well make giving some advice easier.

That said it Google your van + door speakers to see if others had fitted them

Or those pod speakers look pretty jank but I believe they do some better options

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114726026350?epid=57341866&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item1ab6343c6e:g:Yf0AAOSwyVBgTZW~&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAAA4Il1kecstoMqCazg83jbAVdFBQWq3pEqkRXhacIxpvjHOXFX6lXWA2%2Bu4ekGzW%2BUgYiaefUK%2BSz%2BA277yJhmWYSS%2FjDCD%2B7t%2FxIll1MBFKbUGx8c27q5OeH5XJBPyXka73YHp7Q5TradKdojimTfT4QknLlUakDg%2BAnCjQyRSgWQuoiwBChhsWiRAmcEUDhzALcwRpaxXZ8IqGpVy4SB5%2BMTAPPIoATXOPskL1mo9NNPPDDgspafDBhjyN78dbr%2F7CD3WAyk4dLyKXqxbQiZ7bIkdEITnD42rNQIZhx8mGEO%7Ctkp%3ABFBMtpOWzIVg

Or

You don’t say what platform you’re using today but have you looked at shopify, squarespace or wix to see if they are more cost effective?

Buy direct from Amazon only plug in the downstairs unit and test
I expect it will work as a switch fine if not you can return them

Re: storage – why on earth are you messing about with 32Gb of storage, and then complaining about lack of storage? You can get a Samsung 256Gb MicroSD card from Amazon for £35!

Perhaps you misread the op’s op, where he states he stores as much data on the sd card as possible but the inbuilt 32Gb still fills up quickly…

Never did me any harm…