Sorry Granny_ring I just skipped to the bottom and didn’t see your reply. YHM

As you were first into the thread and I messed up, you’ve first dibs. Apologies chaps.

YHM Russ

Far SE near folkestone.

I’ve and old magnetic one that’s yours for £20 collected if you want it ;)

Evil contraptions :D

Has anyone got a wood burner in a new build that doesn’t have a chimney?

I like the convenience of newer houses but wouldn’t mind a wood burner and would be interested to know how it compares cost wise

Perfect, thanks all – SKS chromoplastics it is then :)

It is if you apply it in a way that works for you. I use a TBYL “lite” approach.

Aside from being organised, it also covers being efficient. Eg don’t be one of these folk that takes minutes on paper then types them up. Use Evernote or outlook then edit and distribute as required etc

Evernote is great in that aspect as it is cloud based, works with tags etc for searching and integrates with outlook. Or just use outlook – whatever works for you

I use an adapted version of “take back your life” http://www.amazon.co.uk/Take-Back-Using-Outlook-Organized/dp/0735620407

In terms of tools I use outlook and Evernote.

It boils down to preference rather than one being better than the other (IMO as a user of both PC and mac). I couldn’t say my mac is any more reliable (or faster) than my PC.

With that out of the way, one key thing to note as you mention using Office is that office on the mac is not quite as good as office on the PC.
There are features missing. Eg in outlook, the ability to drag an email to the calendar or the to do bar (with calendar). In PowerPoint, the ability to prepare the slides (inspect), check for off slide content, remove presentation notes etc.

If office is important to you and you would be annoyed with the missing functionality, stick to windows and buy a high end laptop rather than a cheap laptop or mac. A high end laptop will be just as reliable and will “just work” in exactly the same way a mac will.
However, if you’re set to buy a mac, go for it. It’ll be a little frustrating at first but you will soon get to grips with it and will enjoy using it.

I’ve a Swiss Army knife in my pocket most days when I go out. It’s handy to have and is used regularly. Anyone that considers such a tool a weapon and is in fear of it being used against you needs to seriously get a grip.

In the unlikely event of returning to your childhood years and indulging in a spot of kerbside fisticuffs and being on the receiving end of a good tweezering would deserve the eye brow plucking of a life time for being foolish enough to stop the fight, draw the knife and open it.
:roll:

Jordan’s nutty muesli. Add milk (full fat is sweeter) and leave it for 45 mins.

Leaving it to soak helps the digestion (apparently) and I find it keeps me sorted till lunch. Leaving it to soak is the important bit.

With the right technique, changing tyres with tubeless is no more hassle than with tubed.

Get a tubeless repair kit
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/weldtite-tubeless-cycle-inside-repair-kit/rp-prod32383?_$ja=tsid:46412%7Ccgn:Weldtite+-+Tools%7Ccn:Chain+Reaction-UK-PLA-PLA-All-DT-SE%7Ckw:105691UK_Weldtite+Tubeless+Cycle+Inside+Repair+Kit&gclid=CLL5maDYuLkCFeGWtAodQhIAlQ

Buy some co2

Choose your tyre wisely and follow the instructions on stans website.

Ride and get ready to not be bothered about a puncture for a long time. Jut don’t forget to check sealant every few months.

Carry a tube – you’d be carrying one anyway.

Go to a tattooist that specialises in what you want done, not the closest or one who’s portfolio you like most (unless it is in the style you want of course).

Tubeless on ultegra wheels, hutchinson intesives and stans here. I run at about 90psi and its been great so far. I was running 1-105psi with tubed tyres.

Learn how to handle a kite first, start with a trainer, then move onto a depowerable kite of some sort. Lots of advice available on kite forums. Things have moved on since I had my Frenzy and Blades.

Things can go wrong quickly and without warning so if you’re new to kiting, join a club or get lessons. You want to be competent with a kite prior to using the board as you’ll need to be able to recover the kite, avoid a spanking or ditch it if it goes wrong. You’ll also need to understand wind and how it changes around objects etc.

Where are you based?

I have a harness and a furnace creek scrub2 kiteboard that I need to shift if you’re interested.

I know it’s not popular but I would suggest taking at least one lesson before buying your kit.. You should get some good kit advice as well as taught how to kite safely.

Started with sikth death of a dead day, the went via KSE alive or just breathing and onto my final listen before sleeps,
Fred Brum:
http://m.youtube.com/#/user/FredtheShred?&desktop_uri=%2Fuser%2FFredtheShred

This one:
http://www.pcworld.co.uk/gbuk/printers-ink/printers-scanners/all-in-one-printers/canon-pixma-mg5350-wireless-all-in-one-inkjet-printer-19071081-pdt.html

Cheap ink can be bought online for it too.

These: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/defeet-woolie-boolie-cycling-socks/

The shimano boots are well insulated. These work well n the snow and warm up again after getting wet. I use em with me normal shoes till it gets cold enough for the mw boots.

Lead free solder is fine, if you know how to solder properly it isn’t an issue.

If you’re just doing a couple of small joints using thin wire to PCB a cheaper leccy iron will be fine. If you’re likely to be doing more than that and soldering leads onto larger pieces such as the back of a pot then get an adjustable iron or a high wattage iron, for that, the hotter the betterer.

Any iron (small tip) can be used for SMD prototypes if you know what you’re doing but for ease, you cant beat using the proper system.

I’m working on the assumption this is not for SMD and that you can just go borrow one?

If its rock stuff you’re after, take a look at Alter Bridge, Mastadon, Atreyu, Creed, Monster Magnet, Stone Sour etc.

If you want more of a metal selection then: Sylosis, Periphery, Sikth, Killswitch Engage, Gojira etc

If you want to stay 90s sounding or darker sounding have a look at Down, Skid Row, Korn, Coal Chamber, incubus etc

I just bought a cheapy trek with the h2 fit and love it. I’d have a 3.5 madone in a heartbeat as it also has mudguard mounts :)

Is your “normal” shoe a shimano shoe?

If so, I would say no more than one size and the would depend entirely on how your current normal shoe fits. I would say try some at your LBS and if your LBS doesn’t have the stock or won’t get them in without a commitment to buy, order from an online retailer with free returns and get a few sizes in to try at home.

With the mw81 I find them warm enough with summer socks until it gets icy, and then i use wooly boolie thick merino socks so you don’t need a boot that is huge for them.

Make sure you have your winter socks with you when trying on.

One more thing to consider; if you go too large with the shoe size, you may find you can’t get your cleats far enough back to be under the ball of your foot.

Bit of a long winded reply, hope it helps. I would get off my arse to look at my shoes but you really need to try em on :)

I’ve got one on my flux. It’s awesome. Sure, it’s not necessary but it is nice to have.

Thx shed locks :)

TLR – you can still use all the garmin connect stuff with a 500 or 800. Have a look at DCrainmakers site here : http://www.dcrainmaker.com/product-reviews/garmin

I found the comparison of the others useful both in terms of size and spec

I had the same decision to make recently and went for the 500. I don’t need mapping and have an iPhone with Tom Tom, view ranger and google maps on it If I did need mapping. I also didn’t need to link to a phone as I have find my iPhone and I don’t mind the “hassle” of having to connect it via USB to upload to garmin connect.

I got the 500 premium hr and cadence package for £180. I spent the money I saved over the newer ones or the ones with mapping on cocaine and hookers*

I’m very pleased with it.

*this bit is probably not true.

My MBP freezes rarely. My W7 home build PC doesn’t BSOD. neither system is problematic from an admin perspective.

I wouldn’t suggest buying a mac as a solution to a PC problem unless there is some specific app you need.. For the x times the price a mac is no better, just x times different.

I used the peavey equivalent. It’s ok but IMO lower down on the list of fun with an electric guitar than playing unplugged..
Try a pocket pod instead if it must be small and portable or if you can afford it get a decent amp..and either a multi fx or separate effects

I’ve one of those Bosch li ion ones and its teh awsums

How can this go >10 posts and no one mention merino pants?

This IS STW….

I’ve owned both and now only ride Fulcrum. The first set were Red Metal 1s. The second set are Red Metal 1 XLs. The reason for the change was new build and needed 15mm axle.
They spin beautifully, are a good weight, stiff and very well sealed. The bearings far out last the bearings in the Hope wheels.
Typical bearing cost is £20 per wheel, spokes are expensive at about £3. The last time I bought them, I bought a bag of 10 so I had spares (I’d only broken one though and soon after sold the wheels).

There are some bargains to be had late summer so if you can I’d suggest waiting. Think I paid £350 for my RM1 XLs in Sept 2011.

CaptJon – Member
Typing this from my BBC Micro, still going strong after 30 years.

Pfft, my Toshiba MSX pwns your BBC Micro

molgrips – Member
Hang on – in Macs you can’t change the disk, ram or battery?

FFS!

That’s flat out disgraceful, Apple don’t deserve a penny of my money or anyone else’s.

Only on the Retina and Air models. The MBP is user serviceable. I’ve changed the HDD to SSD in mine and upgraded the mem.

We get em flying alongside spits and other vintage war planes. That’s far more annoying based on it drowning out the old engines like the merlin :(

I’d be interested to know more on towing options – I’m caught at the moment in terms of heading down the camper van route or the caravan route.
If we go down the caravan route, I’ll buy a new car and would like something large and probably 4wd (quite like the higher driving position and have always fancied one, dont need one – needs to be better on the road than off it..)

Suggestions welcome – I’m not too concerned with MPG but would like to at least doff my cap in the direction of singlehandedly saving the planet by not getting a 4 litre. Current thoughts are CRV/X3…

The ones in b&q are good enough and only £25. Mine goes down to 4nm and I’ve never under or over tightened anything with it. I also have one of those 5nm hex keys which seems ok

I’m 6’3 and a bit and ride a trek 1.2 in a 60. Each bike will be different. If its your first go to a bike shop and get fitted. I’ve had mine 4 weeks now and love it.

I went for a basic bike as I wasn’t sure I’d take to it. Now I know I enjoy it, a small part of me has upgraditis. I like the frame on the 1.2 and would consider upgrading the group set once I need new transmission parts and will likely get some ultegra wheels to experiment with tubless.

Spares and variety are what would get me hedging for 105 and 10sp. I’ve just bought a sora equipped bike. It works fine and is plenty for me but I have noticed the choice for 9 speed parts is limited.
You could always get a new front ring or cassette if you bought 105. Whatever you do, get the one that fits best. **** the group set.

@st – have you considered using iTunes Match if you are an iTunes user?

If you want to limit how much you spend avoid the Air and Retina as these are not user serviceable. Go for the basic MBP with whatever screen size you like and upgrade the memory and hard drive yourself later. Keep the old bits it case of warranty work.
Until its been upgraded, don’t expect it to be quicker than a standard PC though. I put a vertex 4 SSD in mine and 8gb and its plenty quick enough now.

I went from esi chunkies back to odi lock ons. They’re the big thick rubber ones, can’t remember which ones but they’ve more padding than the Esi’s.
I don’t think I’d bother with esi again.. More faff to get on and off and not noticeably more comfortable.. The best bit about them for me was their width. Another inch on my odi’s would be cool.

If you have an old wii the controllers, wii fit etc all work on the wii U.