And more expensive

An 80s themed bar/disco chain. It’s similar to what I imagine hell to be like, only hotter and sweatier.

By afaik, are you confessing to have never been? It’s not fun, but I am a miserable shite.

Thanks chaps, will have ago at that in reverse for a start then. …

I have some cheaper endura ones from a few years ago, they are shite. Have this rubbery knees Whig lost it’s waterproofing quickly and sticks to your knees. They are too short. They don’t have any velco or other closure round the bottoms so always get stuck in your chain.

Not a fan, but they might have improved them. I’ve bought some army surplus goretex ones for £25 instead

6805 2rs if I remember correctly

it smells like fish

same thing happenned to me but with a tube, high roller on the front with X317 rim, had a slow puncture and knew it was a bit flat but ignored it, went round a corner a bit fast and bam, kerblamo! the tyre rolled off the rim. Hurt my knees. So it ain't just tubeless, it's any baggy tyres!

AS they said above, you need to put the bead in the centre of the rim, i.e. the part with the smallest diameter. The rim tape is also a factor, if it's thick it will make it harder to put tyres on, so if you really struggle swap it for something thinner.

am I right thinking you broke the chain and then used a powerlink to reconnect it, and it is the powerlink that has broken? You cannot (well, should not) reconnect a 10spd chain using a normal link, that will probably break.

If the powerlink broke, it's a problem with the powerlink!

I guess chains do break occasionally, we have to live with that.

Thanks all!

Thanks chaps- not sure if I have tinned the tip, is that just covering the tip with solder? doesn't it melt?

I'll try the lacquer thing. If I need a new iron does anyone have any recommendations/things to avoid? Problem with internet is there are loads of cheap ones which look good on paper but (probably) don't work,e.g. this

thanks SC1! What's your email? Mine's in my profile

That was the best I could do too.

Anyone got any spare chainring bolts they don't need!?

The final straw was the front tyre rolling off on my last ride which removed a fair bit of skin off my knee. Not too painful at the time but takes a week while to heal and trousers always rub making it take longer, I'd just rather avoid that. So just need a skin saver really…

Any exprience of 661 tomcat

or troy lee t-bone

I've seen the kyle straits as a few friends have them, but they look pretty big and bulky.

Thanks for comments so far

i'm thinking of getting my RP23 pushed too as the rebound adjust doesn't seem to be working so it needs a service anyway. Will I notice any difference though? It's a 2007 RP23 on a Spider XVP

Might try putting my rotors in the dishwasher too- that gets everything clean!

JP! Can't be bothered to read all the stuff here but there are only a few things that can be wrong
1. air in the hose, unlikely if you've bled it, I did Shay's on Sunday by injecting from the bottom, not Shimano method but it's how you do magura's, worked a treat
2. pads/rotors contaminated, this might make you think it's a spongey feel cos it's not stopping you as quickly as you'd expect, I have managed to marginally improve mine by scrubbing everything with IPA, think you need to replace the pads though. Doesn't take much oil either, touch them a bit ith your greasy hands and it'll ruin them forever as far as I can tell.

That's pretty much it!

JC

it makes sense. Pneumatic tyres work by stopping the moving object having to work against gravity to rise over bums in a surface. When your bumps are on a large scale, e.g. a rocky trail surface, you need a lot of "give" in the tyre to squash enough to avoid working against gravity, hence low pressure/high volume.

It seems "counter intuitive" because on-road , where rolling resistance is more significant, it feels like that. In this case the bumps are a lot smaller and you need a lot less movement in the tyre to iron out the bumps. However in this case, there are other significant effects such as shear wich are not that well understood, and make the rolling resistance lower when it's wet. There was some research on road bikes which said you want the tyre to sag 15% when you sit on the bike, and that's the best balance between low contact area reducing friction and enough give to get over bumps. I suspect this does depend on the surface though.

That could all be rubbish but is said with confidence (that must count for something?), and there is research to back most of it up….

As 29er said, sometimes the casette digs into the splines, you'll need to contra-rotate it slightly wrt the freewheel body to get it off. A mallet worked for my silly road wheels on which the problem occurred.

viessmann or broag remeha are good (the best imo) boilers, you don't need anything big but you're hot water flow rate is the significant requirement, if you only need a single shower running you want something in the region 20kW would be fine. You may not find combis less than that. They normally have a hot water (DHW) flow rate in their details, for a shower you need around 6-7l/min @ 35C.

London sometimes has problems wiht water pressure, but if you've already got a combi that shouldn't be a problem.

Can't help with the plumbers though sadly!

Anyone?

search for 6805 2rs, that's the code

damn, thought that was probably the case. Thanks.

See if you can borrow a qr off someone and try that first, that's always been the problem when I've known it happen. They bend or the cam wears or something.

I very much like giordana

yeah keep your weight forward, jedi taught me this a few weeks ago. As soon as I did I was cornering MUCH faster and felt much more confident in the traction

skf/other branded seem to be around £10 each, are they going to be much better than £2.50 ones from ebay? or £9 enduro ones?

mrcrushrider – I'm pretty sure they're the ones

they do say "do not disassemble" all over them, but I want to anyway. There's an article here

yes simplybearings did seem expensive, nearly as much as the enduro for their top of the range

Can't comment on any others but I've not broken a shimano one yet…
I like the idea of Marchisio if you can afford them, then you can replace anything broken or a worn sprocket.

so were they to allow the building, they will need to check the trails are built properly, which the wildlife trust frankly wont be the slightest bit interested in unfortunately. Being built by children I wouldn't be too confident either, they'll be built in a kind of build it, try it, if it doesn't work build it again kind of way, and there's not really any way of policing that.

I don't know of/think there are any local clubs that would be interested tbh, it's not a big village.

This doesn't sound too encouraging so far…. anyone got any good ideas?

what's the rotor in the oven trick? I'm wary of replacing the pads without the rotors in case they get contaminated by the rotors again.

I promise I wont clean my bike ever again.

sorry, I meant pads not calipers

sounds like it might not be linked ith you itunes or something, have you plugged it in recently and put the password in etc?

don't worry, it's only 15psi max I've worked it out now (I think)

Sorry, 2008 RCV

theophilus london

as above, you ned the standard deviation.

edukator mentioned "multi-layer insulation", they're themost efficient in terms of insualtion per unit thickness. Something like actis tri iso super http://www.just-insulation.com/super10.html