I want one too

nobody knows, I tried it once though, made me go well fast like a rocket!

that’s not having damping at all, but I think rebound damping alone would solve that issue. Compress fast, rebound slower and absorb the energy that has gone into compressing the spring

I bought some 44s last week, only rode to work on them so far but oh my god! they are sooo plush. That’s all I can say at the moment! CRC have some 55s going cheap

Gary fisher (I think)

Slippery? Don’t know but that’s what I’d guess

also it will pay for itself quite quickly. Air source is yet to be proven as saving carbon I believe, for the same reason, the CoP is low when it’s cold outside, ie when you actuually need it

You achieve a huge saving in carbon if you are changing from oil, CoP is above around 2.5, which if designed properly it will be:
carbon factors

Oil including boiler efficiency is around 0.3kg/kWh
Assuming a CoP of 3, which is reasonable (4 or 5 as quoted above is not likely), you get around 0.17kg/kWh.

The key is that CoP, try to get it included in the contract, essentially, the bigger the loop the larger the CoP will be, and the installer should be able to provide you with calculations showing the ground temperature and CoP over 50 years. They will need your current heating bills to do this.

I have ignored hot water, as this will kill you CoP, you will need to heat this electrically. GSHP works best when the flow temperature of the heating is low, around 45 is what we generally work to. But this means your current radiators wont get the hopuse up to temperature, you’ll need either underfloor heating or much bigger radiators.

have a look at sheldon browns site on it too, I’ve successfully done it on a couple of wheels by filing down the axle to make some kind of chamfered flat spots on it which allow the wheel to be moved slightly backwards or forwards. Those wheels weren’t as nice as hope though, so I’d probably go for the tensioner!

bored, but you read it! I win

Seems pretty daft for a manufacturer to sell an inferior product as oem- no way to gain new customers and they’ll get a bad rep

I had a knee problem which was purely to do with using my quads too much on the bike and not using the gluteals enouigh. Phisio sorted it out in a few weeks. But it could be lots of things…

All the mud specific tyres are likely to be excellent. I use 1.9 trailrakers and frankly the only mud you notice is that which is all over the bike when you’ve finished. They’re not too pricey either.

you can buy the tool from superstar for that! TBH I was expecting to use a head doctor, but can’t find it, and I found a sfn instead

yeah I’ve got several pairs of maguras and have found bleeding them, which I haven’t had to do much, very easy. From memory there’s one funny screw connector (possibly what lalazar is referring to) and apart from that it’s just a few syringes.

Plus mineral oil seems to be less unpleasant and temperamental than dot fluid.

road is far worse, gernerally much higher speed, the fall is usually a front wheel washout (meaning you land hard) or there’s a vehicle or something involved. Add to that you’re probably wearing less than you would on an mtbm and you fall on hard tarmac and slide for 10m rather than on the nice soft loam.

Marzocchi 44 rc3 ti! Lost my crown race though so haven’t fitted them yet 🙁

I’m a recent convert to “barefoot” running, it’s not really barefoot, I wear the shoes without padding and run on the balls the feet. No impact = no knee problems.

First couple of times I tried it my calves were mega stiff but after that it’s easy

if you buy a big bottle of the shimano stuff it’s not so bad

bugger.
http://bikeshd.co.uk/

it might feel odd as the tyre squirms about under you.

thought that might be the case, thanks

haha, laughing into my computer

I have one, my chain hasn’t fallen off

somewhere around that, google search says it might might be a bit more (530) which is def a bit long. Feels a bit daft buying them that long and then reducing the travel, though I suppose it can work downhill and then wind them down for general use.

PS it’s some 140mm zokes from 2010 rather than the newer 150, which might be taller

Nixons are 518 compared to 514 on the zokes, not a huge difference. I was looking at a pair of them on the forum actually

http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/forks-complete-axle-crown-lengths-library-470024.html

Nickf, did you drop the bars and put the seat forward to accomodate the change?

Thanks guys, yeah this was my feeling, like the idea of some 44RC3 Tis, but think I’ll have to go for something with travel adjust, revelations or pikes, but the new revs are a bit long at 150 too

Geeky post alert. That’s a shame. I checked fatigue life of Ti I think it’s wrought on page 455 which is the one we’re looking at in bike frames, thiough someone might tell me otherwise.

Anyway it does fatigue, although I can’t be bothered to work out what those graphs mean in bike frames. I remember in my materials lectures being told that it has a very high crack propogation, so small cracks will quickly become big ones, even scratches. Luckily it’s very hard so they don’t get scratched too much.

Stretch a wide-ish piece of innertube between the upper seatstays or seat clapm area and back of saddle rails, it won’t stop all the crap but it will certainly stop the worst of it getting to your post, and it won’t “trap” any mud.

I think it’s positioned in exactly the worst place on a bike for collecting mud.

I’m only asking cos I think I’d like a frame with 100mm at the back and 150 at the front!

ok, why would you “want”!

it’s not too bad IIRC, quite well drained, there will certainly be some muddy bits though

Was there any oil in the packaging? The oil could also have come out the top in transit

BROOKS!
Hi have a ti swift on my condor, beautiful and comfortable

really? that many?

I’d be very surpriused if it made a diffefrence because there needs to be a bit of sideways play or the chain would rub on different gears. Try the setup again, maybe it’s moved or something. I haven’t tried that type though.

The Topeka rack has long bolt boss bits which hold it off the seat stays. I had one and didn’t load it to the limit they specify, but the bosses bent. I took it back and got a standard one, which worked fine on my thorn raven because the bosses were higher than usual, on seat stays rather than dropouts, specifically so a normal rack can be used. So I’d get a normal rack and hope that it works when you get a disc specific frame

I have the gran fondo which is the sportive version, so it has a longer head tube and mudgurad mounts. I bought mine for £1500 and then the prices went up a couple of years ago. I was very unimpressed with the service considering the price of the frame. The bike’s nice but it should be for that price. It’s a bit flexible but I believe that’s common with ti. I wouldn’t buy from there again tbh.

Try a custom builder like Justin Burls (I don’t have experience but have spoken to him and the bikes look really good, they’re surprisingly reasonably priced too.

try putting a tube in first, pumping it up alot and leaving it for a few hours/overniught. Should get the tyrethe right shape and make it easier