160mm 27.5 C1 airspring. No tokens, 90psi @ 87kg bodyweight

I’ve had a set of wider Hunt wheels (34 aero wide disc) for a couple of weeks now and set them up tubeless with Continental GP5000tl 25mm tyres. Very unscientific, but my average speeds for my rides since I’ve had this set up are generally at least 1mph average faster and the power numbers are basically the same. At first I thought it was just that new parts placebo…but it definitely isn’t. Trouble is, I can’t say if it’s the wheels or the tyres that are making the most difference so I should probably go back to my older tyres and tubes to test again. I’m enjoying the free speed though so I probably won’t :)

Kinetic for me. Used them for frame and wheel bearings now and both are very good quality. Delivery is spot on and free. Royal mail failed to deliver 1 set and Kinetic just sent out another set foc with no quibble.

The 145 is definitely more poppy with the LT linkage. Trade off however is a lower bb and more pedal bob in my experience, so it’s not as good at technical climbing.

ow30 engine oil. Was using Rockshox oil but paid more for a tiny pot than I did for 1 litre of engine oil. Looks the same, smells the same, is slippery and my fork feels good.

I think you may be overthinking this a bit. If the back tyre is rolling on the rim, add some air or if pushing really hard then a rim insert but if this is the case then Hunt trail wides probably aren’t the wheels for you. I have run tyres from 2.2 up to 2.5 on 30mm internal rims and to be honest the 2.2 tyres don’t sit right at all. 2.5 Maxxis wide trails are the best fit.

I do have a set of Hunt trail wides and they are great wheels for trail riding….however don’t go abusing them on anything more as they probably won’t be strong enough. They are fairly light for trail wheels and Hunt make the enduro wheels for a good reason. I have some DT Swiss E1700 wheels for anything really rocky, or bike parks as the rims are bullet proof (at an obvious weight penalty).

Muc off wet is the worst for gunking up. Makes a black sludge that sets like tar.

I’m using Fenwicks professional at the moment. Needs applying to each roller individually but only takes a few minutes. Doesn’t gunk up and lasts well.

I fell into a very deep, muddy puddle on an off road night ride. Front wheel slipped out from under me and literally body slammed me into the puddle. My head went right under water. My mate was pissing himself laughing at me and I still had 7 miles to ride home in -1 degrees C so I wasn’t laughing much.

SDW double and Chase the Sun South. The SDW double attempt will be done at whatever time the weather suits so the actual date is fluid. I plan to be ready by the end of May though. Chase the sun is on solstice so if I don’t get the SDW done by the first weekend in June then I will hold until July.

Both 200 mile rides, 1 on MTB and 1 on Road bike.

Turbo 3 evenings a week doing intervals.

1 early morning ride for an hour, and back in time to get the kids ready for school.

3-4 hour ride at the weekend.

I’m determined to get through this winter and come out fitter and lighter at the other end.

I wish I had your problem. I was 89kg and now down to 86kg in 4 weeks but I really have to try hard, like really hard, to keep weight loss going despite training over 8 hours a week and cycling to work everyday. My body seems to default back to 89kg which is strange as I can literally eat whatever I want, whenever I want but I don’t seem to go above that weight despite my calorie in take suggesting that I should gain weight quite quickly. I could jump back from 86 to 89 easily within a few days but then it just stops at 89. I’m trying to keep weight loss slow and steady this time around as I’m fed up of going up and down now. My fitness is way up at this point and I’m fitter than I’ve ever been, ftp at 278 so I really want to get the weight down over the winter to capitalise on my fitness and keep improving.

No problems once set up properly and then it doesn’t need touching in my experience. Myself and a friend have taken the time to set up properly and both like it. Another friend who is a serial tinkerer and doesn’t take the time to set it up properly hates it and is constantly adjusting things to get it working properly, which it never does, as it needs taking back to the start and doing properly.

I went from 35mm bars down to 31.8 and they are so much more comfortable and arm pump was gone.

Just noticed in the pictures that your b tension looks miles out. Looks as though the screw needs unwinding a fair bit. This will probably help the cable angle into the mech as well.

Point 2 doesn’t make sense. I don’t see how you can possibly have both limit screws fully in.

The chain won’t mesh on the 50t properly in the workstand, but it will under load so that’s nothing to be concerned about.

DHB Aeron storm flt.

Good fit and great performance for the price. I tried on so many jackets that fit in the body but had ridiculously too big arms and shoulders. DHB is bang on size wise for me.

For mtb I would say dropper post and tubeless.

For road I would say disc brakes. Best decision I made with my new road bike was switching to disc.

I live in Kent and it’s great for a road bike. There is a huge abundance of country lanes that I can link up to go virtually anywhere, and any distance I want. I only really cross A roads or use them for very short distances if I need to. If I want to go somewhere different then I just make a map on Ride with GPS, taking in as many random lanes as I can, and I get great rides, with great views, on quiet roads. Load onto my gps and follow.

Keep checking on the booking page as most of the time passes will become available. I went for a group meet up last week, and between the bookings opening and the actual day, it sold out and came available again about 6 times.
The uplift is good, even on the first uplift of the day when the queue looks massive we only waited a max of 10 minutes to get on.

I use a Bird Aeris 145. Does everything for me, even did the South Downs Way in a day back in July.
I just run 2 wheelsets and swap linkages, so 145mm travel and Hunt trail wide wheels for “xc” and 160mm and DT Swiss E1700 (the most bombproof wheels I’ve ever used) for uplifts etc.

The wobbly washers don’t do anything where they are. The back side of the adapter will sit flat against the fork mount regardless of what washers are on the other side. Just use any washer you like, or a shorter bolt.

I’m sure it’s different. I have the Epic bleed solutions kit and it has 2 different adapters in the kit.

I recently fitted a set on my Rockshox Pikes. Seem good….couldn’t tell the difference when fitting or in use, and for the price I would certainly get another set next time.

I would probably use the gym for strength based training and use a bike for the rest, even if it is a static bike in the gym. I don’t think jogging with a low heart rate will particularly help bike fitness. Running with a much higher heart rate will obviously build cardio fitness which would help.
Interval training on the bike will be the quickest way to build specific fitness. It will feel brutally hard at the time if you do it correctly but you will be done in 30 minutes and then supplement with strength training.

I recently got a set of Hunt trail wides and I’m very impressed. I got them as a second set alongside my DT Swiss E1700 so that I didn’t have to keep swapping tyres over. The quality is great and the rear hub engagement is insanely good compared to the DT 350 hub.

If i fitted a longer stem it would still have to be at the top of the steerer as it already was. By changing bars I could lower the stem and give myself room for adjustment either up or down to fine tune things.

I agree about having a higher rise bar. I lowered the stem back down the steerer and fitted a 38mm rise bar (up from 20mm) and it definitely has the desired effect. I gained back the reach and didn’t sacrifice bar height. This was on an Aeris am160 with 160mm fork.

In the interest of balance….my reverb is 20 months old and has nearly 2000 off road miles on it and I haven’t even bled it or had a full service. They are very easy to basic service, clean out and regrease. If they go sticky then this is the easiest thing to do.

Basic reverb rules are, don’t pick the bike up by the saddle when the post is down (I see people do this all the time and you can see the post lift), don’t depress the button unless the bike is upright and store the bike with the post up. Basically all problems are caused by air and oil mixing and this is easily avoided in my experience.

I’ll be servicing mine when the time comes.

When you connect the shock pump you are pressurising the hose and gauge with only the positive chamber of the shock, which is a relatively small volume with a very high pressure. This might be why you are seeing a bigger drop than you expect as the negative is still holding a higher pressure. Maybe connect pump and then cycle she shock to equalize everything? The higher the pressure, the more of a drop you are likely to see when connecting the pump.

Grease everywhere for me, particularly on the lower. All over the outside of the bearing and the race. Keeps water out and stops any annoying creaks. If I don’t grease like this I always get creaks in no time. I can’t see how you would ever get slippage on the steerer once everything is tight.

Shimano di2 battery adapter also works well.

If they are sucking down fully after you have let the air out then the only thing this can be is trapped air in the negative side of the air spring. Try pumping up to maximum pressure and then cycling the fork. Make sure you put your foot on the tyre and pull up hard on the bars to ensure that the piston actually passes the transfer port.

London to Brighton off road tonight. Weather looks great for it.

I’m actually doing the London to Brighton off road route overnight tonight….and I’ll be wearing the GMBN bib shorts. They are great for long rides but I do use chamois cream on longer rides to help out. They aren’t too expensive either and I find bibs much more comfortable than normal shorts.

I have 2 young children, 4 and 11 months. When the youngest was born last summer I found it hard to get out on the bike and after a couple of months without much riding it was hard to get motivated again. I set myself a challenge in January to do the South Downs way in a day in July. This has kept me going all year. My commute is only 2.5 miles but I leave early and get around 25-30 miles in 2 or 3 times a week and then get up early on 1 day of the weekend and do a longer ride. This way I don’t lose out on family time but I still make time for myself and without it, I would be miserable and fat, especially with a stressful job too. My bike is even coming on our family holiday so I can carry on training. Again I’ll be out and back before breakfast with the family.

I’m doing London to Brighton off road overnight using much of the BHF route. The plan is to be on top of Truleigh Hill for Sunrise.

Larkfield Cycles.

I have those roof bars. Just get the Thule square bar adapters from Halfords for about £5

Top hat is a small plastic piece that sits in the drive side bearing. It acts like a cover for the end of the bearing and the axle goes through it. It’s shaped like a top hat. If you can see the metal part of the bearing then it’s not there, but it might have slid across the axle and be tight up against the crank. Install it in the bb before you push the axle through.

You should only be able to push the axle through so far, there is no adjustment on a gxp setup and there is normally a gap of maybe 5mm between the bb face and the crank on drive side. Have you got the plastic “top hat” bit in the drive side bb?