wbss – I’d be interested to hear your thoughts 🙂

On paper the Hope R4 should be brighter than the Maxx-d – looks like the lumens stated as ‘generated’ aren’t the same as the lumens stated by Exposure.

i.e. The R4 is supposed to generate 1446 lumens, whereas the new Maxx-d outputs 1200 lumens. But, if you use the ‘measured’ lumens of 1000 from the R4, then that would ring true.

Cheers Domino, have you used any of the Exposure offerings? particularly interested in how it compares to the Maxx-d or new (mk2/3) Toro

Butty

Jesus Shit? Is that made of gold and jewels?

Whoop! Cheers Davy

Brilliant, ascent doesn’t include descent.

I’l have to keep looking I suppose, I’ll post up here if I find out in case anyone does a search in future,

Cheers

Butty

Hello,

You’re not far from Afan, Glyn Corrwyg, and a bit fruther from Brefcha.

You’ve also got the well know Gap ride too in the local vicinity, which has some great riding in the hills.

Hmmm, interesting. I’m kind of thinking if I were to say what the defitive trail at Afan / Glyn Corrwyg was I’d say W2, as it takes in both White’s Level and Y Wall. But, its not the longest – that would be Skyline – but I wouldn’t say thats the most definitive….

So… the question is… Is Syfydrin or The Summit trail the most definitive?

Cheers Chaps

Butty

I had two bikes stolen from Cardiff area earlier this year, and the only thing I can put it down to was Cwmcarn and being followed home.

It would be interesting to know were they’ve ridden in the past couple of weeks

Cheers for that, Mavic Furys….. if only they weren’t ‘look at me, eat my dust’ awesome yellow, I’d bag them.

Hang on…. surely it should operate using pessimistic locking? i.e. if one item is bought the item is locked out of the system?

Pretty basic design methodology, if you’re developing without thinking about something as simple as that you’ve got a lot of more issues than you think.

So…. ordered a pair of shoes a month ago, stated as in stock, 2 days later an eamil explaining they are out of stock and a £5 voucher – OK service I suppose, disappointing, but at least a bit of compensation for my trouble.

Ordered another pair of shoes last week, order was stuck on ‘processing’ two emails and six days later – they are out of stock. Even though they were listed as in stock when I ordered.

Surely if you have an online stock system it should represent your back office operations in the warehouse?

I doubt I’ll be spending any more money at CRC again, they may be cheap, but I’d actually like to recieve something I buy!

Just as an update to this thread…. the OP is now looking to sell the frame for a trail bike full sus.

So… if you’re after a hardcore hardtail, and have a full sus frame to swap – drop him a line 🙂

Remove the hams from your fists.

Personally, I’d stick with your short outers – like I said 700 miles is pretty good going.

Don’t jump the gun, because a part wears out / fails. Pretty much all parts on a bike are disposable, and will eventually wear out / break.

Just keep the maintanence up, to keep the life as long as a possible.

Not necessarily, yes. But Generally 🙂

I’d stick with what works, on my Spark it’s a full length outer – on the hartail and big bike it’s short outers.

The Spark always pulls much nicer – but I think that’s more to do with routing than the FLO.

I do get more life from the cables in the Spark though, going through mud.

Full length is better, yes. But you’ll have the either:

– Drill out the cable mounts, so the outer fits through.
– Use some cable guides, which plug into the mounts so you can run a full outer.

If you’ve run them without full outer for 700 miles and they’ve only now just got bad – i’d stick with the current configuration, as that’s a good life span for cables.

What frame is this on? Hardtail I’m guessing? with a BB mounted cable guide for both cables?

Get some Crest rims – much better option for you. They’ll last ages, and you really dont need the Olympic unless you’re racing.

In fact, I use Crests for XC and Endurance racing.

Nope. It’ll be dirt in the cable outers. Simples.

Either replace the outer and cables (best option)

Or… take them all out and give them a squirt through with GT85 / WD40. Although if you’ve frayed the cable you wont be able to poke it back through – so new cables.

Might as well get new outers too, from a LBS should be less than a tenner for all of it.

Interestingly SSC are using the same olives and inserts for all their fitting kits…

http://www.superstarcomponents.com/Images/Hosefit.pdf

Yep – same Maxxis issues here, had tyres blow off the rim on Crests, had lots of burping, pulled one off the rim at McMoab…

They’re a lot better when new, and I’ve been told the EXO tyres are much better. But I’ve converted to Schwalbe, and haven’t looked back – so easy to tubeless, incredibly fast and super grippy.

SID teams – no, 80 or 100mm unless they are 2011 or newer, and came as 120mm to begin with.

2011 vs 2009, not that much in it frame wise. Better cable routing, i.e. bottom of the seatstay, not the top – so shifting it improved, as the bend in the outer is less severe.

There is more hydroforming, and a tapered headtube – so *should* be stiffer, whether you’ll notice or not is up for debate.

Pushfit BB…. do you really care? Post mount tabs… again…. are you the sort to care about 50g?

the middle cog is also making a gnarly noise following the ride today

Was it muddy? If so…. give it a good scrub.

If the chain is rubbing against the front mech:

1. shift into the biggest ring at the back
2. shift into the middle at the front

Does the chain rub against the front mech? if so continue to A, if not continue to B:

A. Twist the left-hand shifter barrel adjuster away from you, so clockwise, if you look from the side with your head near the stem. This will ease the front mech away from the chain. Do that a quarter-turn at a time until it doesn’t scrape, but right on the edge of scraping/not scraping.

Finished.

B. Shift into the smallest cog on the rear

Does the chain rub against the front mech? if so:

i) twist the barrel adjuster on the left hand shifter toward you, so anti-clockwise if you look at it from the stem. Do this a quarter turn at a time, this will pull the mech away from the chain. Stop when the chain isn’t rubbing against the mech, but only just.

That’ll sort out the front mech for you 🙂

Sorted. Cheers chaps.

I’ll throw this into the mix…. worth £2900, apparently.

http://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/862461/

Even more amusing is what some people will offer on eBay on a Buy it Now or Best Offer sale.

Some little chancer went for the princely sum of £1000.

I’d say that is taking the proverbial urine. 🙂

@pleasecycle

Cheers for taking my comments in the manner they were intended.

I’d love a beer next time I’m London-bound. I used to be a Technical Writer, so have a passion / pedantism for words and their use.

Oooo… and I love this:

Their head of communications:

Oliver is the founding director of The Hunting Dynasty, a sustainability communications agency specialising in creative ways to promote products and behaviour, using a blend of advertising, innovative messaging, and behavioural theory.

Beautiful words.

I use innovative messaging all the time, like writing ‘GFY’ on post-it notes and popping it in the fridge on my workmates lunch.

If you read the ‘Team’ link on their website…

“Ry (their CEO) landed a placement at CURB Media during the summer of 2009 and gained a profound understanding of the advertising industry

That must mean he was stuffed full of BS words, rattled around a bit like a tombolo and out popped Pleasecycle.

Reading the resumes (from the site) of the people involved, it does beg the question of why they’d be involved in such a venture as this, and how they’d have the time to do so, given their illustrious careers.

I love the Team profile page, they all have other jobs doing other incredibly intangible work… probably with an offshore account, funded by mummy and daddy.

http://pleasecycle.com/the-team/

Yep – ride XC race bikes all the time, I’m pretty light too. PSIs… enough, based on sag.

It’s a single pivot design, so I was thinking it would be sqautting into it’s travel, causing the bb height to be reduced.

I was also thinking whether the travel in the forks, adding 20mm would raise the bb height enough to help…

Any ideas?

Funny, when I put in ‘Sky’ my phone predicts ‘Porn’.

The seller has asked for receipts to discuss reparations.

I’ve asked for the shop name to be censored from the thread – which I believe is the right action.

Right then,

Seller has contacted me direct now, and is asking for proof of the work carried out, i.e. reciepts.

He has apologised for the lack of reply earlier, and would like to remove any detail of the shop in question from this thread.

I will contact the Admins to ask to remove this, as I do agree it is inappropriate, as I have stated above – it is a private sale, and although he may work for said shop, I have no grievance with them at all, or with the seller professionally.

I went from an E-120 to a Zesty, and it was a massive improvement. The climbing ability is very nice on the Zesty, and it descends brilliantly.

If I were going to buy another I’d go to welovelapierre.co.uk, they’re really nice chaps and hugely helpful. I believe when one of their customers had wheel issues, they gave him a set of wheels to use while his were in the process of a warranty replacement.

I do not believe this lad owes buttscratch the money he paid to get it fixed though as that was his own hasty decision to do so, I would not move on that until I had some kinda resolution first.

The only reason I was *hasty*, was because I bought the frame as to build a spare bike for solo races, which the first of which is at the weekend.

This would have been pretty easy to sort out, had the seller not taken 3 weeks to post the bloody frame. But given I had a week to sort it out, I couldn’t take many chances – I had been looking for a hardtail race frame in the meantime too, but didn’t find anything.

Dropping more cash on another full sus race frame, when I had no response from the seller could again leave me in the same situation. So for me, it was possbily lose another £75 or have a nice carbon hat stand, and spend another £300.

For me the best option was to have the problems repaired by someone competent.

I just want to make it clear – my problem is with the seller, and not the shop – the shop that has been identified may well be an excellent local bike shop, with many many happy customers.

And again, the seller may be an excellent mechanic for the shop, and work incredibly hard and make all his customers happy.

This is a seperate issue, which relates to the sale of goods privately.

This thread has had the intended response – i.e. the seller now realises this is an important issue – so I’d suggest we take this offline, as this is probably as far as this thread will go before just turning into a bun fight.

Thank you for your comments STW’er, always appreciated – including those opposing my view, it is always good to be challenged, so that I can make sure I am being fair.

Luke, please get in touch via Pinkbike to sort this out.

Well….

New Bearing Kit On Order

Size Large, Suits Me And I’m 6ft

requires 34.9 post (see ritchey bar/stem/post in my buysell (y))
internal headset, hope should fit easily 🙂

these frames no longer come with carbon swinging arm, unlike this one, this is fully carbon for extra lightweight
these bikes also now retail at in excess of £2000 for the cheapest carbon frame

grab a bargain :), frame will be fully reassembled before sale, once bearing kit arrives from scott

I’d have said that indicates all that is required in respect to what you expect with a frame is a headset.

Also – fully reassembled, to be – maybe i’m an idiot – means completely assembled. Not a half assed job with bearings half changed and missing covers and washers.

I’ve bought a lot of frames in the past, so I generally ask only the obvious questions – bearing condition, scratches, dents, headset condition, bb thread condition…. not whether it contains a BB cable guide or frame cable guides.

Anyway, I think I am being reasonable in either asking for the repair costs to be covered, or for a refund.

If that’s not reasonable, I’m happy to hold my hands up.