Dogging.

It works out about £200 from bike-discount.de for a 100mm drop. That’s still cheap, and cheaper than from the UK.

I would really recommend against having to drop the seat everytime, that’s going to be really annoying. There’s a few posts about it on mtbr threads, and those users have regretted it.

The drop will be 125mm, as long as you buy the 125mm drop version….

My concern with buying a reverb with the collar right at the seat tube cuff would be that you have little room for error – if you use a slightly higher profile saddle, you may need to drop the post a little for it to feel comfortable to pedal – that will definitely be a PITA.

Buy the right size you need, instead of compromising, i’m guessing you’re looking at buying from Merlin for £220? as they only have a 420 in stock? Buy German for £42 less, the servicing is still done by Fishers in the UK – so if anything goes wrong just send it direct.

Bike Discount. Works out about £178 without a bleed kit, about 2 days to arrive, so better than CRC 😉

http://www.bike-discount.de/shop/k1170/a53783/reverb-125-seatpost-309-x-380mm-mmx-right-black.html

http://www.bike-discount.de/shop/k1170/a53782/reverb-125-seatpost-316-x-380mm-mmx-right-black.html

I used to be the same about Elixirs, I’ve had lots of Juicys and a few Elixirs.

They’re great when they’re working, but they are a pain to align – I really don’t like the 10 washers per end idea – seems over engineered to me.

Plus, when they go wrong – they properly go wrong.

Bleeding is a technical exercise, whereas Shimano is just the Hope method – even my missus can do it.

Owning Avids is like owning an Alfa Romeo – they’re spankingly good, but only when they’re working properly, and that’s not often, you spend more time fixing it than you do using it, and you tell everyone how awesome it is because you spend time working on it. Well, at least that’s what I did with my Avids.

PS. I use Hope Race X2s now.

2011 X1 is an awesome bike, looks lovely in the flesh – and I’ve only ever seen two of them – the missus races on hers.

2011 vs 2012
The Shimano XT brakes are far greater than the Elixirs
The XT wheels are lighter and nicer than the Giant own brand (and UST)
The RP23 is better than the RP2
The Forks are a better spec than the Evolution

Personal
Tyres are preference, but similar weight
Triple instead of a Double

2011 is a far better value, even if the price was more for the 2011.

Simple really, you’d be mad to go for the 2012.

So… you can use it on it’s own, without Avid XX levers?

Also… are they actually the 2012 version – it says so in the year of production, but the photo is of the silver collar version…

Sweeeet. Well then, that’s decided a new Kashima RP23 shock, a DSP Dropper post and some Fox Kashima 120 FiT RLCs…..

Now, just need to get in touch with Loco Tuning 🙂

Cheers fellas.

Buttttttttttttttttchratcher away!

No wait… thats the wrong image.

Bugger, just realised everyone is looking at the copter tape, rather than what I was wondering about – which is above the tape, on the corner.

I’ll adjust the photo…

Yep – definitely don’t pull them! They unscrew with a 5mm allen key.

Cheers Julian,

The rev 150s I used to have with 20mm maxle felt a lot more confident inspiring, but that was on a bigger bike as well as the additional travel.

Although if there’s not much in it between a SID and a Reba, I’ll not bother pursuing that line 🙂

I’ve always found Fox forks to feel nicer in my experience, but like you say the only time I’ll know for sure is the put a different fork on the Spark and see how it feels.

Whoop! Definitely interested in your thoughts if you can post up later Banana, comparison between the Stereo will be a good benchmark, considering my other bike.

Cheers buddy,

Very good idea indeed

Will post up some more detail in a bit – just asked for additional info from the buyer, cheers for the replies so far – and apologies for the vagueness; just looking for a general idea at the moment on how to follow this

It was more the case that the chap was fully kitted out, and seemed to have forgotten his missus – had they both been the same I wouldn’t have batted an eye-lid.

I almost got banned for quoting the words on Xiphon’s photo. I’d probably recommend that’s removed from a public forum, my words were in jest – but that looks a bit offensive to those with a disability.

I think the comment was addressed at pronunciation?

It’s Betws y Coed… as in, “Bet-us A Coid”

I really like the Marin, and Penmacho is a good blast – not in the rain though, I still have nightmares of wet slate….

Have a word with your insurance company again, ask them what the cash settlement would be – i did this with my claim and was up about £500 from what Wheelies valued everything at.

Then take that cash and barter your ass off, or go see Charlie and get that Spearfish… that looks lovely.

You’ll get the three done, Ae and Mabie are pretty quick blasts, so once you’ve done them you’ve got the awesome red at Dalbeattie to look forward too; there’ll be no stopping then 🙂

Good luck buddy, wish I was up that way tomorrow too.

I’ve done that a while back when I was relatively unfit, started at Ae, went to Mabie then Dalbeattie to finish. Fish and chips at the end from the chip shop in Dalbeattie…. nom.

It’s not that bad, 75km, but it’s trail centre riding, and you’ll be out for longer because of the driving.

I did that in April I think, so similar level of light to now, and we didn’t finish in the dark, and weren’t hooning it around.

Definitely replace the cables, and I’d go for new outers to keep things fresh, considering the issues you’ve been having. Index them properly, checking your limit screws are actually set right.

When installing new cables I make sure the shifters are in the smallest gear, and pull the cable as tight as possible, clamp it into the mech, then shift up and down the gears to pull out the cable stretch a bit, then shift into the smallest gear again and take up the slack with the barrel adjuster on the shifter – is the cable is just tight in the smallest gear, then the rest should index perfectly.

This assumes you’ve set the limit screws correctly.

If you can shift fine now, but the chain is slipping – check the chain wear as below:

Grab a chain stretch tool from somewhere if you can, assuming you don’t have one: measure your chain with a ruler (12 linked pairs should measure 12 inches from new 304.8mm, if your chain measures over 1.5mm extra on top of this at 12 links, then you need a new chain, if it’s 2mm or more stretched, then you need new chain rings and cassette too).

If you don’t have any slipping issues, but the chain is stretched under 2mm, then replace the chain only. If the chain is stretched over 2mm and everything else is fine, then just run the drivetrain into the ground, it’ll last a good length of time and save you a shed load of cash.

Good luck buddy.

Well, Urban Dictionary says:

Dirt
Used as a label for a person that is low on the social ladder, either because of unfettered promiscuity, poor personal hygiene, or any other indicator of social status.

i.e. you look bad, and you should feel bad.

You mean CyB don’t you, you will never find a more wretched hive of scum and villany.

question is, would you pay £2k for it?

An Exposure Flare?

http://www.shinybikes.com/exposure-flare-rear-light-2011.html

Bling and useful.

Kashima upgrade would really improve the longevity of the uppers, stiction is a real plus, but the increased life is what would sell it for me.

As I understand it, this is actually a common problem, where the push rod for the shock sticks open. There are a lot of chaps that have the push rod removed and run it as a high volume shock instead.

It’ll get sorted though – that’s a warranty issue, so nothing to worry about 🙂

Are you sure the beam was wider and brighter on the maxxd? It shouldn’t be… check out the beam shots here

http://www.bikeradar.com/gallery/article/tested-30-mountain-bike-lights-28195

Not saying you’re wrong, but his r4 really should have a considerably wider and brighter beam.

Does he have the brand new 2011 vision r4 OR the older Vision 4?

http://www.bikeradar.com/news/article/best-mountain-bike-lights-28195

Check it out

It comes with:

– A bar mount
– A helmet mount
– A Head strap (so you can use it as a normal head torch)

Well, it didn’t last very long on full – but take that with a pinch of salt, as to be honest it’s very hard to see any difference between the full setting and the second highest setting. I believe Hope also recommend that the highest setting is only for short bursts anyway, to be used as a boost for when descending very technical ground.

I used the light on the second highest setting all night without any issues at all – and that is about twice as bright as the Maxx-d we had out last night.

Also worth noting is that it was very warm last night, probably warmer than any night this year – and considering most of my night rides are a bit chilly, I’d have thought this would stop the light overheating on full.

Does anyone know what WMTB scored the light down on?

Ah – and the battery takes only 3 hours to charge from empty 🙂

Its more the drying time for the shoes than anything, if we do 10 days riding, wet shoes get very annoying after a while!

Thinking I could get her some GTX shoes and have them resolved with 5:10 stealth S2…

Right then… been out for 2 hours with the light.

First off… it’s bloody awesome. Incredibly bright. Compared next to a Maxx-d on full (970 lumens one), with the Hope on the second brightest setting, it looks like two or three Maxx-ds strapped together.

The beam is very wide, the throw is very long, and there is no hot spot at all.

I haven’t seen the WMTB review, but I’m guessing their issue and why they gave it 3/5 was because of a few things – which all dont bother me.

1) If you put the light on full (1446 lumens) it lasts about a minute before switching to low. But you can put it back on the second brightest setting and it’ll stay there the whole time.

I put this down to that the highest setting is for occasional use, and the unit gets very hot while on this setting. The setting down looks just as bright as the highest too.

2) The mount isn’t adjustable side to side, which may be an issue if you have a very odd sweep on your bars.

3) There is no battery indicator, but as I’m colourblind I dont get any use out of the one on my Exposure lights

4) There’s a separate battery, but the epic version – that gives 4 hours on the second highest setting – is pretty small, and fits easily on a 80mm stem.

5) There’s no fancy soft case 🙁 that would have been really nice.

All in all, its an amazing little light, it’s so much smaller than it ;looks in photos – about the size of the diablo, but about 3cm in depth – think a £2 coin, but 4 of them stacked together.

Anyone who’s thinking of buying one – I wouldn’t hesitate based on the initial ride with it, light is much better than the mk2 Maxx-d I’ve got, and being able to carry an extra battery for me is a bonus.

Beam shots here, these reflect my experience:

http://www.bikeradar.com/gallery/article/tested-30-mountain-bike-lights-28195

Dawes Watoga
In the three years I’ve been riding a bike….

Marin Rift Zone
Whyte E120
Voodoo Wanga
Kinesis Virsa
Kinesis Maxlight
Lapierre Zesty
Genesis Alpitude
Trek EX8
Giant Reign
Giant Anthem
Scott Spark
On-one Whippet (twice)
Genesis Aether
Boardman teamc
Ridgeback flite

Only got two main bikes and a road bike now though.

I like bikes, me.

groundshaker: You forgot that other yellow £199 road bike

Yep – just picked mine up and seen it’s proper small! the head strap is a good idea too, would make a great headtorch for night running with an endurance battery.

Butt Scratcher?

Good good, well… I’ve got my R4 now – so I’ll post up a review and some photos of beam shots.

I’ll compare to a Mk2 Maxx-d too.

I do like Hope kit, and as said before the customer service is tremendous – the fact you speak to an engineer when you call through is tip top.

Thanks for the comments everyone, I think from Domino’s comments she has the older Vision 4, not the R4.

Given that it’s only been out a couple of weeks the comment about the battery lasting well seems to be out of place. This could explain why the Maxx-d her mister has is brighter – which it will be if she has the vision 4.

Thanks for the explanation too, does anyone know what figure Exposure use for their lights? measured or generated? Given both the R4 and the Maxx-d use the same Cree R5s I’d assume they would be pushing out a very similar amount of lumens.

It’s interesting that Hope have the two different measures of Lumens, whereas everyone else seems to use just one… The important number to consumers is the one that is comparable to other manufacturers.