The campsite in Morzine (down the valley towards the Carrefour) always used to be quite nice.

Just a bit of a trek into town every day. Better than staying LG though.

The other option is there is a large site in Chatel. It’s on the bus route from Chatel town to Pre La Joux so easy to get to the lifts & mostly easy to get back because its downhill all the way.

The new distributor, despite the gusto of ‘it will be different’ is now experiencing the full force of BOS’s ineptitude & they have resigned themselves to not being able to service anything for the forseeable future.

There are other people who can unofficially service them, but there now appears to be the odd story of patchy service work creeping out, so you will have to take that gamble.

The downside of BOS is when they do sh*t themselves, right now it’s a massive ballache to get them sorted out.

Performance wise, they are just as good as anything else of a similar budget, just a seriously questionable support level.

The jumps are a bit odd, as the first is bigger than the second, so it’s easier to roll that then double the second. Doubling both equals some huge exit speed and a worrying time through the next couple of berms, but its all good fun.

It’s not quite as expensive as I thought it was.

Can you get an XX1-compatible chainring to fit a normal 104BCD crank?

Or a BB to fit a SRAM crank in a BB92 pressfit BB?

Any normal chainring works. You only need the cassette, shifter, mech and chain to actually do it.

I’ve tested it on various demo bikes and prototypes.

I still have an inherent dislike for SRAM shifters, so don’t really like it. Not enough of a changer over my 1×10 of choice, XTR.

The lack of chain guide doesn’t work either, and every single one I used the BB creaked like crazy. Same old SRAM really.

A 2.3 Butcher Control is noticeably smaller than a Maxxis 2.5 EXO.

It’s also slightly less grippy than the EXO 3C compound, which in turn is noticeably less grippy than a proper dual ply Minion Super Tacky.

However, tubeless with a bit of sealant, the Butcher Control is a great AM tyre, works well with a Purgatory 2.2 Control 2bliss on the back.

The Butcher is about 200g lighter than the Minion EXO too.

Specialized Purgatory 2.2 2Bliss.

You don’t need bucketloads of grip on the back.

And that massive gurt big Jungle UK tax

How else do you expect them to run a fleet of Ferrari’s???

They are Sapim spokes.

You just need the correct length. There is nothing special about the spoke itself, the nipple is a double threaded design which is a pain, but the spokes are off the shelf.

Contacted Wolftooth and they were confident the chain should stay put without a chain guide or clutch rear mech- has anyone tried this combination?

I am not sure I am convinced but am curious all the same…

I’d be amazed if they do, as the slightly worm XX1 I used was useless, and everyone who I have ridden with who has used it says the same.

Brand new, great.

The Sombrio Highline shorts are good, the cut is a little tight on them unless you have little chicken legs though. The waist is about average, I use a medium on them (small 33″).

The TLD Skyline shorts are also very good, nice & lightweight. Can’t comment on the pockets, as I never use them anyway. They are a slim fit also so you won’t want to fill them with crap.

Raceface Indy shorts are also great.

I thought there was a site out there that could/ can drag a GPX file from Strava for nothing?

Also the chances of bottoming out a set of float 36s is the same as anything coming from Mars – A million to one

Not really the time you want to be finding out your fork bottoms out on the tyre before using all of its travel though.

If you’ve got a Float then, worst case, you could just reduce the travel by 10mm with a spacer.

That won’t work as it reduces stanchion height, not limits the last 10mm of travel.

You can bodge a bump stop to limit travel at the end of the stroke, but its doesn’t really work too great as it affects the air cartridge.

You’ve got to admit, you’ve properly squeezed that tyre in there?!

Yes, but it was a point proving exercise – clearing the lowers arch certainly does not equal clearing the crown, by a long way as you can see & the fork isn’t even bottomed out at that point.

It’s a 650b Maxxis HR2, so yes, quite a big tyre, but no bigger than a Schwalbe 2.3 Hans Dampf etc.

As I said before, some tyres will work, generally the smaller stuff. However, given the OP is running a Fox 36, I don’t think he’ll be rocking the 2.1 XC choices ;)

Yeah & ask any Ibis dealer just how well the SLR is selling for them…

Here’s a clue, if you want one, be quick, you might not get a chance later in the year.

Whether a pro is winning on one isn’t really relevant, it’s there for publicity. As you said she could be on any manufacturers bike & still smoke the field, plus you don’t even know if she is riding a stock bike.

As I said, it’s not a bad bike!

And the same image from the front, to show it does actually fit under the arch of the lowers.

Oh for crying out loud! So long as the wheel (whatever its size) fits within the lowers (i.e. beneath the arch) it doesn’t matter what the suspension does.

The crown and the lowers on fox forks are designed to work in concert, so under full load the inner shape of the arch assumesthe same shape as the crown.

Really?

Sure?

BOS Deville every time! Their performance is truly sublime and you only need to look at the machining and tolerances to realise how well they’re made.

If they are made so well, why is the warranty return rates just as high as any other fork.

Surf Sales are in full BOS experience mode now. Nearly 5 months in and they still can’t do any work on forks because BOS can’t be bothered to sent them parts.

Buy from a brand with good support so you can get the forks fixed & serviced easily.

It will be a while before the Bronson gets some proper reviews, so you might struggle there.

The early Yeti reviews were a bit hit & miss, partly because they were specced badly. The later bikes with bigger forks & a more suitable spec nearly all say the same thing – it’s one of the best bikes you can get.

The Ibis has fallen off the radar a bit, because it’s due a refresh, haven’t seen a review of one of them for a while. They arn’t bad bikes, they are just starting to look a bit outdated now.

Checks forks.

Nope I was right the crown doesnt move, it stays firmly attached to the steerer and only rotates.

Now the bridge and lower legs do move.

Keep trying Einstein.

What does the tyre move towards when the suspension compresses?

For a Santa Cruz they are.

Whether you believe it or not, people see SC as an aspirational brand to buy into, so it makes sense to keep selling them.

Bear in mind 99.9% of the buying public are nothing like the majority user base of STW.

Yeah, but it’s a cheap way into a brand people want to be seen riding.

It’s paid for itself multiple times over & they still sell, so why not keep knocking them out.

As others have said, surely you mean the Mojo HD?

If you mince, get the Mojo, if you ride quick, get the Yeti, if you want to be the cool kid in the carpark for the next few months, get the Bronson.

Loads of clearance for 650b in a 36. Loads.

Slight exaggeration. There are quite a few that hit the crown on full compression, which isn’t really the time you want to be finding out if your wheels fit…

The lower profile smaller tyres will all fit, the newer, bigger volume stuff that’s coming is unlikely to.

Well if it fits in and the wheel rotates then as the crown doesnt move you wont die.

Good luck with that, let us know how you get on.

Aluminium & steel are more durable and easier and cheaper to repair.

Not true. Apart from maybe the repair of steel. Repairing heat treated aluminium is not easy at all to do properly.

from what I can see on this thread there is a few people saying in theory carbon is strong and durable and there is also a few people giving anecdotal (real experience) that it’s not so.

There is an awful lot of people who ride bikes of all materials, with no issues & crash a lot. To assume carbon is weaker based on a scenario that could have broken any bike is silly.

For one, carbon frames are only marginally lighter than Al Alloy when comparing like for like frames

The SC Nomad Carbon is nearly 1.5lbs lighter than it’s alloy version, as is the Yeti SB66. That’s quite a lot.

It’s quite frustrating, towards the end of the blue there is a ‘double double’ if you are on it, but the lips have already been trashed by the wobblers panic braking over them.

I was there this morning testing some bikes & they are a lot harder to hit now.

I’m 6ft and run 165’s due to a low BB. I ride lots of different bikes, all with different length cranks & I can’t tell the difference.

Going back to the article in question this part

Every bike manufacturer currently offering 26in wheeled bikes is actively redesigning their entire range for 27.5in wheels. Companies that mainly do 29in wheels are still looking at 27.5in wheels for their enduro and trail bike models, and even their full World Cup DH bikes. Companies that only do 29in wheels, like Niner, are looking on with interest and puzzlement. The 26in wheel, I’m afraid, is suddenly, inexplicably, going to disappear virtually overnight on production bikes of any quality. This is not conjecture. This is going to happen.

Is key. Working for an evil, money sucking vampire manufacturer, It’s an industry wide shift & no one wants to be caught with their pants down.

No one of any note is investing in new 26″ designs, everything is going 27.5″. Next model year will see a lot of very prominent brands having no 26″ wheeled bikes in their range.

It’s like a mass scale migration, like it or not. The next few years will be the golden ones for 26″, as too many big players have invested too heavily for 27.5″ not to happen.

I imagine your scales are also a bit out, unless 31-32lbs is actually 32lbs13oz ;)

You can save weight without compromising durability, and might even get it under 30 (actual) lbs, but it would cost a bucketload.

It does beg the question of why would you on a light 140mm frame….

Just wait until Zyro/Pelaton come online with Giro and Madison dump the large amount of stock they have, the sh*tfest & fallout will result in lots of bargains…

You are going to be in for a long wait for Surf Sales to be up & running ‘properly’ with BOS (if ever).

The oil levels are on the BOS site, the oil is basically a 7.5wt oil.

J-Tech can service them, I think they can also do a bushing replacement. Worth calling.

I suspect this will be the way campag approach the market, get someone else to make at least the calipers and then colaborate rather than try and create something totally in house.

Yes, it’s Formula.

Sold it and got a Lev. It’s awesome.

Then when it breaks, you can’t get it fixed at all! Hurrah!

It’s funny people saying they have a build for every budget – not really true is it.

Of course not, but then does any brand? Any budget implies including £50 supermarket BSO’s.

I think 10/10 to bwaarp for completely missing the point though. He seems to forget the word ‘choice’. By the powers of deduction, I assume he drives a worthless 30 year old car, and lives in a caravan, as these do the same thing as the more expensive options?

Also I shall make a point of informing one of my (self made, obscenely rich) friends he is a tasteless twunt because he has a number of Ferrari’s (along with various other classics). Lets face it, they all do the same job as a Ford Ka, so why should he need anything more?

No one is forcing people to buy these expensive items. Some people buy them for show, some people buy them to use & abuse. Who cares.

Shimano 10spd without a doubt.

Just ask your collection of LBS’s what they think of SRAM 10spd stuff compared to Shimano.

Although they like the fact that people have to keep coming back to buy new mech’s, because the SRAM ones keep wearing out & Fishers never have any stock of spare bits…

http://shop.use1.com/Aluminium-shim-internal-diameter-30-9-mm-p/ss30.9.htm

You need a 31.6 to 30.9 use plastic shim

You are correct, the back is flush.

It’s the only guide at the time I could find to fit my Nomad properly, probably for the same reasons you are experiencing, everything fouled the lower VPP link.

Of course, as a distributor, everything gets advertised at full RRP, they are hardly going to discount something & thus reducing their dealers margin by doing so…

So by shopping around, yes, you probably can get it cheaper.