Well, in theory, yes.

The reality was, the dual air system, and the plastic spacers completely screwed up how the fork felt when you started changing the travel.

So, although cheap, it was a rubbish way of doing it.

Yes – although i’m not sure if the parts for the air assembly are available yet.

They should retail around the £75 mark, it’s quite an easy job to do.

You’ll need to send it via the shop you bought it (or the bike from). pretty much all LBS’s have an account with Fishers, so will send it back & deal with it for you.

Warrenty. It’s air getting past a seal inside.

Should only take SRAM Tech a couple of days to turn it around :)

The 2013 onwards RS forks cannot be changed with the old style black travel adjustment spacers.

You need the replacement air assembly to change the travel.

The new SID is great, but it’s a stretched out chassis that’s perhaps appealing to a market it shouldn’t because it’s 120mm & got a 15mm axle.

I’ve got both, the SID is on an HT, and you can certainly notice the flex on it. The Revelation is on a Camber Evo Carbon & suits it well. It’s noticibly stiffer.

It is however, now, comparable in weight to the new Pike. Which has a significantly better damper IMO. You can spacer down a Pike to 120mm if you need to.

Praxxis Works.

Pedal and Spoke had loads in last weekend, after my mate hit a tree at full bore and literally snapped the ring in two!

Didn’t have the heart to tell him I’d just bought some 26″ hope hoops from his competitor around the corner………..

Thing is if he’s a premium volume IBD shifting those numbers of bikes, he’s probably not that bothered on you buying a wheelset that has a crap margin on before someone even mentions the word discount, or “such & such is doing online for £XX.XX”.

so which one was Bikeind?

None, Bikeind is so bigtime, he gets to send his shop staff to Japan to test Shimano 11 speed MTB before product managers for some of the largest bike manufacturers in the world.

Largely b*llocks, done for the sake of trying to be different.

USD DH forks on a UK uplift = carnage.

Generally I would agree, Triscombe is pretty good in the wet (as long as you don’t mind everything stained peachy orange) if they stick to the well used tracks.

I only did the Quantocks race this year myself, the others all clashed with silly work events.

Cool story bro.

I work for a big bike manufacturer as a brand manager.

For the most part I enjoy it. People think because i’m mad about bikes i’m lucky to have a job that I do, but there are plenty of times the age old phrase of mixing business & pleasure comes into light.

I travel a lot, so i’m away from home too much which I don’t like. I do get paid well (very well considering it’s the bike industry) and the perks can be great when the trips away involve riding along with lots of nice shiny new stuff which I don’t have to pay for.

Sometimes I still wish my hobby wasn’t my job though.

Not me personally, but one of the guys I ride with went through 2 back ends on his Nomad C, both the same, where the insert came unbonded & resulted in the circular crack of death.

They warrantied the first, no questions. The second? Caused a bit of an issue, as the bike had fallen out of warranty by then, despite it being a known, publicised issue & the other one failing just over 6 months before.

He ended up riding it anyway, until it fell apart.

its very possible I’ve misunderstood your post, but Easton are such a terrific company the UK importer Extra dropped them as they were so sick of dealing with wheel warranty claims…

Haha. I’ve heard it all now!

You couldn’t be further from the truth, but carry on :)

Shorter bolts would be fine.

Unless you fancy this as an excuse for a bigger disk on the front :)

Hmm, makes it a bit murky then. You could try talking to them but I don’t know how far you’d get with a complaint – they might say something along the lines of “you should have done a trial fit etc before tightening etc / or you should have got a bike shop to fit them etc….”

Really? Did you actually suggest that? And when they have finished laughing, I imagine they will politely remind you to apply a ‘little bit’ of common sense & check first.

I’m sure the lowers will be fine. As others have said, just use some old, shorter bolts & ride the bike.

I’m sure you will laugh about it in days to come. It’s not the end of the world.

I ride up at Peaslake most weekends, although it’s Saturday this week.

You’re more than welcome to tag along, I ride with some monsters though so you may have to be prepared to have your legs torn off on the ups & downs.

I had been using this combination on my 26″ bike. They were fine for general riding, not as grippy as a Minion DHF/Ardent combo, but probably rolled a touch better & was a bit lighter.

Got cocky & tried them for a day in the Alps, and some faster riding in preparation for some races,and one race. Ended up with 4 tyres in the bin. All wrecked beyond repair.

The sidewalls are noticeably less durable than an EXO. Good tyres for the money to be fair, but I would rather spend a bit more and have something better.

It’s a massive market, and the success story of the guy who set up Go Pro is quite impressive in just over 10 years.

There should be more to it than GoPro, but they are so deeply involved, it’s hard for others to even take a small share.

Old Fruity boy was selling the Lev 125mm for 325 quid according to the way back machine, or 240 for the 6″ Supernatural. Both are more than Stif have them on their site for. So maybe he was blatantly profiteering…

Just another classic Hora moment of offering an opinion on his specialist subject of not having a clue :lol:

Sorry pauper, I can’t hear you from the bike industry ivory towers.

Because he’s (mostly) full of sh*t?

To the OP, have you priced up a similar sized parcel to the ROI? I’m assuming not, as you would know that’s about the going rate.

For those interested, I promised one my riding buddy I would make the time when at Eurobike to hunt out the Litville stand & take a tape measure to check the BB height.

Luckily, they had a large 301 with 160mm plates & a 160mm Fox 34 on it along with a set of 650B wheels on the stand.

The BB measured ~357mm on it. The tyres were a Schwalbe Magic Mary 2.3 front & a Rock Razor 2.3 rear (which incidentally are MASSIVE compared to the First Ride samples of the same tyres I have been using. They utterly dwarf a Hans D by comparison)).

Considering the size of the tyres, and that being a near on real life measurement, that’s actually pretty low compared to other actual measurements in my experience, rather than some of the make believes you see.

Bear in mind if you run it with 140 plates, it’s an extra 10mm lower again.

Looking at them as well, it’s a nicely thought out design, with a lot of good features. The suspension looks a bit odd under compression, but having known nothing about them, it looks like a cool bike.

I predict an awful lot of Euro junk.

And 650b bikes, just for Rusty Spanner. In fact I’ll take some pictures of them, just for him.

Right, i’m fed up trying to be diplomatic and not offend people so here it is…Most people can’t ride a bike for shit and need all the help they can get. A bigger wheel makes it easier for them to feel like they’re not crap on a bike. All the industry is trying to do is make them feel better about themselves.

Whilst i’m neither pro or against different wheel sizes, they arn’t really trying to do that.

All they are trying to do is what they have always done. Make some money.

Some are singing it’s praises more than others, some are pushing the marketing hard, some are non plussed about that side of things & simply stating it’s what people want, but it doesn’t make much difference, yet they are still doing it because it’s what people are asking for (on the whole) in Santa Cruz’s case. Point being the Bronson is the best selling bike of the year for them.

Just accept that it is here and if you don’t like it, then don’t buy it – there will be tons of 2nd hand parts available for your 26″ (according to your argument).

Exactly. Just because the users of STW want to boycott a wheel size doesn’t mean it’s not a viable option. It’s here. Fork manufacturers, wheel manufacturers & tyre manufacturers are all fully on board. The next point will get Rusty in a frothing frenzy, because said manufacturers are already beginning to phase out production of some key parts for 2015 MY. Forks, tyres etc.

As for secret meetings, cartels & conspiracy theories between all the manufacturers to drive this to market, that’s a proper LOL. Half the manufacturers have outstanding lawsuits aimed at each other claiming patent infringements, copyright etc. You really think they all sat down together & thought this through? Give me a break. We can’t even get our own product to market when intended more than 50% of the time, let alone have an on mass co-ordinated multi-brand new industry standard launch & I work for one of the biggest bike manufacturers in the world. :roll:

Maybe someone with 650b bike slept with his wife, that’s why all the pent up anger is coming out.

It was at home I found it, I’ll have a look in my history & drop the link in here later when I’m home.

I’ve done a bit more scooting about and actually found a page with reference to the MK11 running the 140 plates and 27.5″ wheels with various tyres.

It looks to be lower than it should be, based on the measurements on the Liteville site. All were under 14″ with an Ardent it was around 13.8″ from memory.

Bear in mind most BB measurements (like frame weights) from manufacturers are generally a fudge, measured with super skinny tyres and a fork with the lowest A2C they can find. I’m not sure the Liteville is as bad as it would appear on paper.

Has anyone run one of these as a dedicated 27.5″ setup?

I’ve got a friend interested who is interested in one but is struggling to find any information about geometry with the mid sized wheels.

I had a quick scoot about earlier & the tables relate to 26″ geometry & list the BB height as +10mm over the axles, which is fairly high, by current standards, with a decent sized 27.5″ it’s going to be up in the clouds…

Can anyone confirm the numbers are in fact correct? Seems a bit odd to make a bike setup like that now?

Of course, anything is possible – question is is there enough of a market to warrant the development.

For Shimano, being as big as they are, short answer is probably not. It’s not just a case of designing & making a new cassette as SRAM have shown. Less than optimal ratios, rear mech longevity, in fact a whole new mech needs to be designed to work properly with it, rather than a ‘that will do’ mentality. Then of course there is the issue with chainring size compatability. Standard 104BCD cranks can only really go down to a 32T ring (without funky offsets to clear the tabs), where SRAM offer XX1 right down to a 28T ring, so a new crankset is needed. You might say they don’t need to do all that, just give me the cassette, but big corporate companies don’t work like that. Quite simply, it’s groupsets.

The likelyhood is you will see an 11 speed drivetrain from Shimano, but not for 2014.

It’s not quite that simple to be fair. SRAM initially looked to making it as a 10spd option but the jumps on the tooth size were too great to make it work properly for them. Also the mech takes a less than optimal path in order to work over such a wide range cassette.

It’s pretty extreme when you look at the range of movement required & clearly puts additional stress on it, which is why if you look at the 11 speed mechs they actually work in completely different way in the way they move across the block to help with the shifting & stress the mech is put under.

There is a market for these 1×11 groupsets, as you will see for 2014, a lot more bikes will be spec’d with them. Shimano are watching closely but they have their own development programme and plans.

For a grand I’d buy as late as I could find Iron Horse Sunday.

Putting big drops and jumps into Surrey Hills ain’t the brightest thing to do IMHO – it’s very popular and attracts a lot of inexperienced riders who are unlikely to have the skills and experience to handle stuff like that…

It’s also where a lot of very quick and skilled people ride. I’m sure people can make an informed decision whether they are capable of riding a trail or feature.

In particular, putting a feature needing well-above-average skills into one of the easiest to find and therefore well-used trails is poor judgement – a massive mismatch between the trail and the riders likely to be riding it.

If people used the two things in the front of their skull, and they grey matter behind them, there is an obvious chicken line round the feature in question.

I’m in the camp that features like this should be in the trail, but only of there are chicken lines to support them. Otherwise the situation comes to be like Swinley, where a small rolling double had to be filled in to become a small table instead, dumbing down of trails to suit the lowest common denominator.

We’re not talking about hitting the main line of the Joyride trail at Crankworx here, with 50+ ft gaps. They are small little drops and gap jumps.

Ah now starts the ‘who can p*** the furthest’ contest…

ZOMG once Pedal and Spoke heard I cleared the 5ft gap they offered me a Carbon Bronson for free there & then!

i wasnt riding blind.im not an idiot..if you read the entire thread you would know this
…ive ran this trail loads…i ran it when the jump first appeared a few weeks back..
the huge pit behind the lip(that you cant see nutil your on it) wasnt there when i ran it last time

If that’s how you ‘jumped’ it before then, you probably should be going round features like that anyway. You basically dropped off it to flat. The landing starts at ~a bike length out.

If that’s your idea of a huge pit, then you best not go near proper jumps.

Next time, I suggest when you are riding a trail & looking ahead and you spot an obvious lip for a jump (it’s pretty obvious in this case) you stop & have a quick look to see if there is a gap/snake pit/firey cliff of death/etc on the other side…

Then you can make an assessment whether its within your skillset to clear, push back up the trail & hit it, or just ride round.

Hitting something blind with no idea on the size is pretty special. That being said, you’ve probably learnt a lesson & feeling the result sadly. Heal up & hit it with a bit more conviction next time, little more speed & you will be fine :)

Interesting modifications.

I’ve commented on this before, as my wife has one on her bike & with a mid cage mech it’s been a bit of a pig to index properly.

I can either have it shifting well on the up shifts, but lazy on the downs, or vice versa. Seems like others have commented on similar issues. Maybe some tooth modification is needed.