I’ve just posted a similar thread earlier in the week as I wasn’t sure about the spacers either. I bought the SLX 7120 cranks which have the same 55mm chainline. I ended up using one of the 3mm spacers on the non driveside. I also have one 2.5mm BB spacer on the driveside as you normally would with a 73mm bb.

No spacers meant I got the gap like you mentioned and trying to use both spacers (one either side as shimano doc says) meant the non drive side crank arm wouldn’t fit correctly.

Ah right ok so the ones I bought are for the 55mm chainline so the spacers help achieve that.

I was there on Saturday. It’s just the first wee bit of the single track climb on the south side and the last little section that runs next to the south side car park, you’re not missing much out.

Stealth ad for a Long Moxie frame in the blue/teal colour. I’m just not riding it enough and need to pay my tax bill. Fun bike though and I like the sliding dropouts, had mine setup with 140 fork and it felt fine.

Got the wee beggar, it was pretty worn and tight but it’s come apart and gone back together. Time will tell if it’s been done correctly and if it will fix the issue.

The clutch is off, it was really tight, possibly a bit of corrosion on clutch and/or the plate axle. Next issue is I cannot remove the lower hanger section from the main body of the mech, there is no bolt opposite the plate axle, it’s just flat, so I cannot separate the two parts and remove the spring.

Just been having a watch of that, when I try that the clutch assembly does not come off, just the tension band and the cam unit bit that adjust the clutch tension.

I replaced a DD Aggressor with a Specialized Purgatory GRID T7 and so far it has been fine on the rocky lakes stuff where I ride. I realise I’ve probably jinxed myself and next ride out I’ll get a puncture now.

Purgatory rolls better and you can feel the difference in weight too.

Based on a previous post my guess it’s the classic pink paint job coming back again. But we shall see…

Someone will no doubt come along to correct me but a higher stack will help seat you in a more upright position, which is what you are doing by adding spacers and riser bars. I would assume (possibly wrongly) that the Stooge is both shorter in reach and higher in stack (compared to your full suss) due to it being a rigid bike and therefore you’re not meant to have all your weight forward, it’s meant to be ridden differently.

These numbers are just a guide though so you may need to test ride bikes to get a good feel of what you like as numbers alone don’t tell you everything. Steve from HardtailParty youtube channel often mentions stack height in his videos as he seems to prefer something higher than most LLS hardtails seem to be.

it was the need for all the spacers as the front end was too low for my old neck and body

Would a higher stack not help this? Some bikes have a very low stack so you will feel very low over the front.

I’ll run them on the spare bike until they fall off then replace them. I should have bookmarked the link for the cheap SLX cranks someone shared a few weeks back now.

Bottom Bracket is pretty new only done a few rides on it. Plastic spacer/pin thing is ok I think, I’ve had them perish before and that’s caused issues but this one looks ok. Going to take it all apart again and check it all.

It’s been taken apart, cleaned and inspected but I can’t see any damage to the crank arm splines or the axle splines either.

What I would say is that I stopped in at Comrie Croft on the road home and that is the absolute pinnacle in the world of what can be done with a Blue trail

We were up there just a few weekends ago and I agree the blue at Comrie is really fun.

Murmur is much easier to service and route a dropper I’ll give it that

Flaremax is a great bike I used to have one, very capable and looks ace. Compared to the Starling Murmur I now have, the Flaremax feels longer when seated, likely due to seat angles, not sure how steep Cotic have gone with new version.

We just missed out as we were there at the weekend, if it’s anything like the small section that they let you ride at the bottom it should be pretty fun.

Using the old weighing myself then weighing myself carrying bike the Murmur weighs closer to 16kg. That’s with a DD Aggressor on the bike, that has a hole in it so needs a tube so that’s not ideal. I also have a fox 36 on there that replaced a Pike so there is weight saving to be had.

I would not be setting up/building up another bike like this, it would be a much lighter less burly build.

You mentioned guykes’ flaremax build with sids etc. Surely the 9a is more like the jeht in cotic’s line up?

Flaremax is 125mm travel, aether 9 is 130mm so not much in it, I’d wager the cotic frame is slightly heavier although not by a lot perhaps.

You say your murmur is 34lbs but have you actually weighed it?

Not really no it’s a guess based on other bikes before it which were in the 30-32lbs range. The starling is heavier but it’s got a fox 36, coil shock, wide rims, big tyres etc. I’m not looking at replacing that bike but replacing the burly hard tail I also own with something lighter and better suited to easier rides.

I have looked 2nd hand but not much is jumping out at me so I’m looking for new frames which don’t cost daft money.

Still seem to build up heavier than I would have thought, though I guess tyres and wheels make a big difference to weight and feel. The carbon one looks ok I think, I’d prefer if the downtube didn’t kink like it did but i’m not willing to spend that much anyway.

I still think you need a Stage 4 like mine (28lbs with light wheels IIRC).

Maybe maybe…

All those weights seem more in line with my Starling Murmur build, though in reality I’m guessing my build is around 34lbs without really trying to make it light. Reckon it’s possible to get it sub 30 with a lighter fork, 25mm rims and faster/lighter tyres.

Specialized claims the carbon Stumpjumper is 2280g in S4 including shock

That is light but way out of budget. Any other frames worth looking into, Transition Spur looks good but also too much money.

Cheers both. I do quite like that in the raw finish and with some lightish wheels and tyres it might just do what I want of it.

Now a 130mm version does sound very promising, I’ll be keeping an eye on that one.

Hardtail party chap mentioned steel bikes and construction for different sized riders, a lighter rider may not need the frame as heavy or as strong and vice versa too. Making a frame strong enough for the larger rider may make it feel too stiff for smaller sized frames.

Cheers all, I’ll be doing a mix of private (paid for physio) and NHS I think. Using the NHS just in case I need x-rays or things like that which sometimes physios don’t have. I have used physio before, when I first had the subluxation and they were great. I did get surgery through the NHS eventually but the physio really helped speed things up.

Every time I feel it twinge it is a sharp felling pain and it sends a shoot of numbness down my arm, which I kind of feel in my little finger mainly. It’s just a dull pain otherwise and it’s definitely felt front/front top of the shoulder.

I kinda thought as much, just thought possibly some pin styles or layouts may have worked a bit better.

Mine are back with Fox under warranty. Only 2 rides old and noticeable play / rattle in them

Had similar issue with mine, out of warranty now so had to pay for a service and rattle came back after only a few rides, it’s just annoying enough to put you off as otherwise they feel ok.

How thin are they?

I think they’re around 28mm, I’m basing a lot of my info from this article: https://nsmb.com/articles/my-favourite-push-grips/

I might try them for a little longer then try something else like the ODI Longnecks and compare.

Think I expected something slightly softer/comfier than what I got. Only had a few rides on them so maybe I’ll get used to them and they’ll feel good once worn in a bit. I’m comparing them to a set of slightly worn ODI elite lock-ons.

Burgtec Mk4’s here also and they are very good not had any issues, they do sit quite close the the crank arm so not for everyone, maybe the Mk5’s have updated that.

Hardtail Party review He seemed to like it, slightly burlier and stiffer than the SolarisMax but geo is pretty much the same. I’m sure owners of one or the other will be along soon.

Looks really nice that @YorkshireRipper. How does it compare to the likes of Cotic, Stanton etc in terms of ride quality? My Stanton (Switch9er) is fun but definitely harsher to ride than the Solaris max it replaced.

Not been out much in the past few weeks but so far this year I have done 1952 miles, 346,568 elevation, all on mtb and that’s pretty similar to last year.

I think he liked it. I’d agree with it being an easy bike to pick up and ride, I felt pretty comfy on mine from the start. Just been out today on some rocky Lakes stuff and had an ace time.

Oddly enough I did the same thing earlier this year, and replaced a Cotic with a Stanton. Ultimately it’s personal preference between the two but the Stanton feels easier to throw about though I do find it a slightly harsher ride than the Cotic. Absolutely love the colour on my Stanton too.

I’d be interested to see how they both compare to the new BFe Max and also the Pipedream Moxie too.

Funky colour switch

Had mine for a few weeks now and I think they’re ok. They are a snug fit, I bought a medium, 32″ and probably should have bought the large 34″ as I prefer a looser fit. I own the winter version too and they are a better fit in the 34″, bit more room for pads underneath also. I describe them as spray proof rather than waterproof. Not much more to say, can’t compare them to more expensive trousers as I’ve not tried any.

Borrowdale seemed busier than usual for this time of year, not too many walkers but one of those odd days where there are quite a few riders out. Most were just riding alone or in pairs but we did spot a group of 5, maybe they all live together?

Rest of the Lakes seems busy’ish but more with road traffic than trail users, most likely due to not being able to car share like others have said.

I have both also. I bought the AM in size M (32″) and they are quite snug, quite a stretchy material though so not uncomfortable but you’ll only fit skinny pads underneath. They’ve been used quite a few times, and survived two crashes and overall I like em. They are more splash proof than waterproof but that’s ok with me.

Also bought the cold weather version in size L (34″) definitely a more relaxed fit without feeling too baggy, a bit more room for pads. They do feel warmer than the AM but only have one oddly placed pocket.

With both pairs you need to put pads on first then the trousers, zips up the side of the lower leg would be a nice addition, both for pad add/removal and also just for getting off your legs when they’re wet.

@Bagstard How do the Nukeproof trousers compare? I was going to get them but then found the Decathlon ones for cheaper.

Ah ok I’ll get in touch and see what they say cheers, warranty won’t be option as I bought them 2nd hand.