The cool coating may need to be at 800 and may achieve that temperature more rapidly than the steel.

If the coating is already on the steel before it goes in the oven it may insulate the steel thus increasing the time for the steel to reach 800.

Does the steel surface also have to be at 800 for the coating to adhere? If so how do you know the steel surface reaches that temperature in 2 minutes? Making that assumption without good supporting data may is potentially risky for both the coating and the steel.

The Q should have been “what happens to a bike frame when put in an oven at 800°C for 2 minutes, then being cooled in air at room temperature.

If you mean the oven is at 800 C and the bike frame is at ambient temperature prior to entering the oven and is then left in the oven for 2 mins one can’t answer the question. The important variable is the steel temperature which may not be 800 C after 2 minutes.

You could post a message here:

https://www.facebook.com/chasetrails

And/or give Swinnertons a call in the week see if someone handed it in.

http://www.bikechase.co.uk/contact-us-2-w.asp

Really? Mine went on first go with Stan’s.

I’d spend it on coaching by which I mean proper coaching and not just a series of stock sessions on skills. I recently tried to do this and found it surprisingly difficult to get a provider to do what I wanted rather than a stock session. Of the providers I contacted via email describing what I wanted 3 of the 5 didn’t reply, 1 replied with a terse “we can sort all that out in a single session” type reply which I didn’t believe.

In the end I went for stock session at an uplift place so I could get a “free” uplift ticket for the 1/2 day I wasn’t on the skills course.

Sitting on bike, air spring is left leg of fork, damper right. On the top of the right lower leg (just below the seal) is there a small sticker saying “open bath” or something else? There is on mine of similar age.

The lock out issue may not be directly related to oil volume.

Stock tune of my 2014 CTD shock on a Saracen Ariel is pretty good; infinety better than the DRCV rubbish on the Trek Remedy I had.

It may not be a duff battery. There can be bugs in some apps that result in current drain on the battery and the phone getting quite hot.

Try charging the battery then switch the phone off/on and run the tester.

Saturday is generally less busy and you pretty much avoid them by parking on the other side of the road to railway on The Monkey.

The black bits are hard to enter but not that bad thereafter. I find the hardest the second lot of rocks on Upper Cliffe; needs commitment to go for it and not a good place for an attack of mincing once on it.

I’d suggest Whinlatter for the first day rather than TNF. There is the mini loop near the shop (assuming they OK with you using it). Also easy to loop round the first section of the blue that starts near the shop. With a bit of planning also easy to loop the blue sections between Mas Mill and Revelin Moss car park using fire roads.

I use a set of Oakley MX OTG goggles. They work well and fit over Oakley glasses well and some others with varying degrees of success.

I suspect at this time of year by the time you get to Luibeilt you will have had enough of bog and hike a bike.

If the aim is to get to The Fort and river is too high you might consider a bale out going North into the Lairig Leach. It is a hike a bike (pretty easy for teh most part) up to the top of the pass between the two hills and then a good descent towards Spean Bridge. Then there are options to ride through the Leananchan Forest, complete the bale out by road or combinations of the two.

Whatever, stay safe and enjoy, it is a fantastic part of the world.

Corrour Station House is closed for the winter, reopens in March:

http://www.corrour-station-house-restaurant.co.uk/

Where were you planning on crossing the Abhainn Rath?

The Giant Contact post does the job as advertised and is reasonably priced.

We’ll keep the font size in mind. Although, I can recommend reading glasses, given my advanced years

I have the reading glasses (well variwotsits actually) and do find the font a bit hard work at times, good natural light is generally ok but artificial light can be a bit taxing.

@hora, there is stuff I don’t feel capable of riding. I get off and walk round it/climb down or whatever I certainly don’t expect it to be buried in several tonnes of hardcore. I expect to make and informed decision.

@jambalaya, DCC may well have ticked all the boxes, it does not make it the right thing to do.

It is rather a pathetic response for DCC to claim it is in a “difficult position”. As I said on the FB page any difficulty is entirely of their own making due to their cack handed approach to this type of work.

I wonder if anyone passing that Horsey cafe could pop in for a brew and have a chat with them to find out if they are aware of what is going on up the road.

I have one, put it on a Cotic BFe in May. Does the job well enough. Couple of minor gripes. There is a bit of up/down play if you grab the seat and wobble, bit annoying but not a functional issue. The fit of the post in the seat tube is a bit loose and the seat clamp bolt needs over tightening, this may of course be down to my particular combination.

Had a couple of days out with mine. Seem stiffer than stock version and I don’t that think it’s just newness. The toe shape is different which makes them look a bit “big”.

Grip is up to standard both on the pedals and for pushing. Wore them at the weekend on damp trails and pushing through soaked grass,mud stones etc no problems and all dry inside after the ride.

End of November, hope you have plenty of lumens on board :-)

Have a rummage here:

Help needed to put the mountains into mountain biking – riding the Munros

Ref Kinlochleven, there is the Ciaran Path from the Blackwater Dam to the Ice factor, from the landie track between the old Mamore Lodge and Loch Eilde Mor there is the Grey Mares tail path and the other “Enduro” track further East. If you look on the big thread above you should find info on some rides in the Mamores.

Two Cotic BFe’s one with 2014 34 Talas CTD Adjust, one with 140mm 32 Float circa 2011. The 34 is by far the stiffer and tracks through rough stuff really well. I fiddled with it a bit a first but now just ride without even thinking about it other than to flick the CTD switch.

On the Pie Eater scale I come in at around 70 kg.

See Fox Oil chart

http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/Service/oil_volumes.htm

Lezyne micro drive here, USB charging, several settings including flashing. Bright and good battery life.

Have a look here:

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/fox-forks-not-using-full-travel

There is a photo of the foam ring in place and a scraper below it. The replacement scraper goes the other way up to the existing one i.e. wider part upwards.

I just removed the foam ring and the fork is much better for it, not got round to fitting the extra scraper.

And you can watch a reply on demand at Red Bull TV.

Got a 2014 Ariel…..

On my list of frames to get and build up, I have seen it suggested the frame is a bit flexy. Have you found this to be a problem?

I love my BFe …… could do with a bit of rear travel just for comfort. The reviews say it feels like a hardcore hardtail with some squish. Sounds ideal..”/

That is why I am also looking at a Mega TR, have you checked the sizing? I ride a small BFe but the TR is best (for me) at Medium. I’m also considering a Saracen Ariel 14X frame, any views on that option appreciated.

A, the other options attract risk. Additional benefit of A, you get to spend Sunday building a bike rather than being roped into some or other tedious chore.

You could do out and back, Braveheart Car Park Glen Nevis to the West Highland Way.

If doing it in the near future it might be prudent to check the Abhainn Rath is fordable at Luibeilt given the rain there has been this week.

My Tubeless curiosity got the better of me about a month back and I needed some new tryes anyway so got the tape, valves and sealant kit. Rims are Stans Flow EX with Hans Dampf. Front wheel a bit of a faff but relatively painless given it was the first go. Rear on the other hand was frigging nightmare and remains tubed; also worth noting I tried it on two different rims and with three different tyres.

However, on reading this thread, and having made some relatively complex lego models and not much liking being described as an idiot I ventured back to the shed.

I got an old Nukeproof generator rim and Bonty XR1 tubeless tyre. Yellow tape on rim, valve minus core in, tyre on, track pump attached. Up it goes no bother till about 45psi when the valve area leaked a bit. Deflate put in goo, fit core, pump up. All seems to be good in under 10 minutes. We’ll see if it holds overnight. I might have another go with the Flows’HD’s at the weekend.

Draw your own conclusions but on this,admittedly limited sample, I’d suggest the problem is not with the “idiot” operator. The other conclusion I draw is that it all seems a bit “hit and miss”.

A Bfe is fine, I rode the blue, red and the “easier” of the blacks on mine. I missed out most of the bike bike park stuff down the bottom not my thing. Brilliant day out will be going again some time this summer.

It is a right hoot, just ride within your capability. Assuming you’re buying a day ticket on the Gondola do what NW suggested on the first run and then work it for the rest of the day. The Red is good value also but I did prefer the riding on the WC course.

I recently bought a 2013 34 CTD Trail Adjust Talas from Mojo, they revalved it to the 2014 tune. Works fine for me.

I’ve used them for several years, couldn’t get on with single sided road pedals. They do require a positive action to engage but it is not difficult and you will soon have the hang of it.

I’d say North side of Ossian is smoother, South side more open and scenic but hardly technical.

Assume you are taking the estate road all the way into the forest. The dam can be crossed but the fence on the road end is a bit high and pointy. It is doable but harder from the damn side and perhaps not ideal. The track from the edge of the forest to Fersit might stretch the definition of “non-tech”, it is more of a rough and (in places) indistinct landie track; may also involve wet feet.

A couple of other suggestions. You could park at Fersit and ride back to Tulloch at the start of the day. Pleasant enough when fresh but maybe more of a slog at the end of the day if someone is getting tired.

Parking at Fersit also leads to the natural conclusion of starting there, it will get any techy riding out the way early and if you end up pushing it is early days so will be forgotten. The ride back from Tulloch to Fersit is mostly down. If you did go this way when you get to the edge of the forest take the left fork forest track rather than the one that follows the fence line; the latter is boggy a bit tech in places and a haven for the midge (even in winter!!). The obvious issue with this is it can induce time pressure to get to Corrour in time for the return train.

Some info on the PUSH is here

PUSH DRCV

It is worth calling TFT to talk about what you want out of the tune, if nothing else it is an interesting chat.

Thanks, I have had a couple of conversations with TFT who have pretty much convinced me they can tune it to how I want it but good to hear some real world experience. Pushing it is a whole lot cheaper than getting a new shock and all the faff that would involve.

Extremnik, have I understood correctly you had your shock Push Tuned but also use a volume spacer on the shock? I ask because I have problems with the shock blowing through even with the big volume spacer and was thinking of getting it Pushed at TFT.

I think the fork does have an effect on the back end. I recently changed the standard Fox Talas on my Remedy with a Revelation and the shock no longer blows through as easily or frequently.