http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/do-all-swedes-chew-their-lips-and-drink-loads-of-coffee

*Pulls up chair*

Trying to work out the chainring size I will need for Alfine 11 at this very moment……..

but im trying to work "what possible that she could do"?

Remove the need to try and work it out – simply walk away from the house sale, pay the fees and sort the divorce out. Once the dust has settled – financially and emotionally – then you might want to have a look at this car crash waiting to happen situation again (…maybe…) 😯

You want to do what?!?!?

Think about servicing – they're all built to a price to a degree. If a spoke or freehub went, can you get hold of one easily etc etc? No experience directly of the wheels you list, but have had a 'mare getting hold of spares for Mavic factory wheels in the past.

Give Smeg a call.

Bought a graded range oven of theirs a while back for way less than RRP from an independant retailer. Came with 12 months Smeg warrenty though. 18 months after purchase, but only having used it for 6 months, (bought and stored it prior to kitchen refit as the deal was too good to miss) the inner glass door shattered. Phoned them on the off chance they could send someone out to get a cost for a repair – "don't be silly" says the nice woman on the end of the phone "we'll do that for you for nothing – we'll send someone round tomorrow". Sure enough man turns up 9am next day, glass replaced, oven serviced all FOC and with a smile. Top job. Give them a try and see if they can help.

EDIT: Alternatively, they might tell you to poke it 😉

Is that an R600 compact road crank on there??

On the road, yes, got some oversize bars at the right price – seems fine.

My works scheme runs over 3 years, you pay for the bike over 1 year but don't get the option to buy it until 3 years has passed (if the bikes value has dropped to 25% after 1 year it should be next to nothing after 3 years).

According to the taxman it's 12% (over £500 orig value), and the Taxman knows best….. 😉

Dairy Land!!!!

allthepies – cheers.

Can someone post a link to this – can't seem to find it on the HMRC site.

I think you're learning from yesterday's efforts – much more subtle this time…. 😉

If you know nothing about the mechnicals take someone who does. If you can't manage that and are happy to do a deal regardless, at the very least press EVERY button and switch you can find to make sure it works/does what it is supposed to.

Don't be like the bloke who bought a car from me – turned up after dark, said he liked the colour, paid for it and left. Deal done in 3 minutes flat. From my point of view, ideal of course…. 😉

Satyed here with the little'un recently and it was very good….. but it's a mightly long way for you…. http://www.bosinver.co.uk

Really? Surely it generates AC?

I'm looking at the hub right now, and there is a dirty great yellow arrow on the removable packaging attached to end of the hub saying "rotation direction"…. I think they want it go that way…. 😉

EDIT: Having just leafed through the (as always with Shimano, considerable) instructions, they are very clear that the hub must be mounted so that connections are aligned with the right fork leg (i.e. – the hub is fitted 'normally') or the hub will not work properly. Helpfully, not further desicrption of '…not work properly…' is provided.

It was more an observation – building a Pompetamine at the mo and have gone for Kinesis DC19 forks as it's carbon and loverly, the disc tab is on the right side and I only need mudguard mounts (not front rack mounts as well) which are well out the way of the dropouts, half way up the fork blades.

With the disc mount being on the 'wrong side' of the fork, does this preclude the use of most dynamo hubs?? With my LX one, the dynamo only works rotating in the 'normal' direction, so putting the disc tab on the other leg means the hub is effectiely rotating 'backwards', no? Fairly niche question, I know….

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/category-Tyres-and-Tubes-767.htm

Suspect SJS will have something for everyone – 26" (559 through to 597), 700c, 27" and 28"

He asked which would you choose, money no object, yet people are justifying the Alfine on price?

Fair point – I would still go for Alfine as I like the look of the current Alfine 8/Versa VRS8 shifter combo as a road commuter set up and expect/hope there will be a "VRS11" shifter in the pipeline. The implimentation of the Rohloff twist shifters on drop bars (SJS's for example) does not look pretty IMO. For offroad, my choices may be different – but that's not what I'm building at the moment.

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Shimano_Alfine_11-Speed_Disc_Hub_without_Fittings/5360051007/

Yours to pre-order now, obv the price doesn't include fitting kit and shifter. I saw another place taking pre-orders with an expected date of late Sept, though I understand this may have to be taken with a pinch of salt.

the choice, the money and the need

Tick, tick and tick

Alfine 11 – mainly because it isn't as pricey as a Rohloff and I'm praying on my bended knees (..a nod to Ton's thread perhaps..) that either Shimano or Versa come up with a road STi shifter to suit sooner rather than later.

One of the Topeak Morph pumps in whatever flavour suits you best, so prob a Mountain Morph.

Step 1 – get a shed……

I did chuckle after having read 'Boy Racer' and its gushing praise of his then-beloved to find soon after publication he is now shacked up with a petite Italian semi-hottie 🙂

Tim Moore – French Revolutions.

No, no ro – we're talking about BD's exit interview, not yours…..

Depends on the course – if it's a popular choice some relevant experience that demonstratets a commitment to learning AND the subject area are as useful as A grades.

As I think Al is indicating: mudguards = step change in rear light longevity if you are mounting the light anywhere in the line of fire of the spray off of your rear wheel.

What Richmars said – if the graphics card isn't up to it any visual manipulation of the model turns into a "…wtf is going on…' moment.

Reckons major costs & hassle are getting services in, gas & electric connection very very expensive.

IIRC, Stoner may be able to provide some advice in this area as well…. 😉

Another vote for the hand grenade. Been running two on my commuter for the last 4 winters and no issues.

Am I wrong in what I did or my approach

No, wouldn't have said so. Call to the police next? All sounds very dodgy….

Sheet of marine ply on mine. I have a sink in the shed for washing bits and standard kitchen chipboard worktop just swelled up and died after a while with water running into the cut edges – I though fully sealing it in a shed was a bit OTT at the time 😉

Brant – LOL 😉 Yep – point made – the suit analogy is a good one.

Yes – it's a fair point that effectively you are buying a one-off, so economies of scale of large batch production to a single design don't apply, so most fo the cost is man-time/skill/expertise.

I think the point I was going for was that, for most people, if you can find a frame that ticks most of your requirements and fits pretty well for 1/4 of the cost you'll go for that, rather than something that will be made to measure to your exact requirements for alot more. I guess there must be space for both in the market though, esp at the procution rate (30/40 a year?) that Hammoon are talking about.

Just read that too. Perhaps I'm being nieve, but in the age of a £150 hand-made-in-China-by-robots On-One frames, ~£800 for a steel frame (albeit probably custom geom and hand-made-in-a-shed-by-a-human-who-speaks-English) seemed a touch pricey.

Several years ago, I was having a curry in a place where the whole of the seated area could look into the (open plan) kitchen. You could see the 'chef' opening the jars of Patak's curry sauce and pouring it into the pans…….

Oh look – Charlie has them on his Ebay shop 1/3rd cheaper than anywhere else. Decision made.

…. that's almost in the same league as sending someone for some 'Tartan Paint'…..