What druidh said – Ur byke iz u hi-brid, init….

“…rOcKeTdOg tests his ‘bat signal’ in case of future emergencies…’ 😆

for most road riders would they really make a big enough difference over cable rim brakes?

Indeed – therefore I can’t see why they would bother making them… I guess I’m wondering if there is some massive advantage that I’m failing to appreciate to offset the weight/cost/complexity?

Those are discs though…. these are calipers…..

My road BB7’s are OK with Shimano cables – even full length routign to the rear has worked fine (once the break was identified!!!)

Those FMJ’s would tidy up the front end nicely….. but £40?????

On same deal and MMTM – also bank with them, so having all accounts on one internet banking screen is handy. Had no cause to consider moving.

Assam here please, and a choclate Hobnob if you have them…..

<settles into the comfy chair for the afternoon, just in reach of F5>

If you’re SURE the pads and disc are not contaminated and are bedded in….. then my money is still on the cable/routing.

I assume you have a similar back brake and this works fine? Swap the rotor and pads from the rear brake to the front and try it – if it still has no power then it’s prob not the discs/pads.

Do check for a broken outer (I had this and spent ages wondering why the rear brake in that case had no power). Also check the cable outer is firmly up against the stops at both the lever and caliper before you pull the brake on (so you are not compressing free air for the first part of the stroke) – I’ve done this before as well 😳

This is going to sound obvious, but you are using road levers with the road brakes?

Also, check for broken/corroded cable outers between the lever and caliper, and (again, obviously – sorry) smooth running inner cables.

Have to say, the ‘hit it hard’ technique has only worked a few times for me, and then mainly on older stuff – but, one of it’s benefits is that it’s free to try and does relieve some of the frustration associated with a non-starter 😆

EDIT: Failed to spot it was an auto.

Starter solenoid could be sticking if you are SURE the battery has enough juice. Either rock car in gear as M_F says, or hit the solenoid casing with a hammer…. hard…. and try again.

If it is forge/blacksmithing you require and not machining, these guys might be worth ago http://www.almondsburyforge.co.uk/

They sell/install/service stoves and do ironwork commissions, so would be able to help with the technical details and then make it.

(Obv, local to Bristol – other similar companies may exist local to you etc etc….)

I always thought it was Dom from Chris Moyles show….

Yes, I believe Dom has a “starring role”, but Moyles is in there as well, the fame-grabbing attention-Ho that he is….

And even though I haven’t seen it for a while I can now here the theme tune in my head….thanks

+1 👿

I try to avoid it, only ’cause a) the theme tune is so catchy it just goes round my head for days and b) one of the inanimate voices is Chris Moyles…… other than that, <cough> I </cough> my daughter finds it wobbles effortlessly between bonkers and genius 😆

Na, na, na, nana – SPACE PIRATES! – na, na, na, nana…..

😉

Topeak Mini Morph will sort your pump needs…..

Organic – if you have Solidworks, I can send you solidmodels and cut-lists for a 4 x 1.5 x 1m woodshed that is ‘based on’ the top on here. Yes, probably overkill, but it does look very nice 🙂

http://edistone.com/Pattern_A_2Bays.html

…wait for the 11-spd Alfine

I getting fed up with waiting – for the price of the 11-spd hub I could have gone 8-spd AND got the Versa shifters. It’s been a battle to not go down this road, keep the credit card on ice….. and a face nearly-built Pompetamine when i get my current commuter out of the shed each morning 🙁

It’s not the best option IMO

Yeah, the Croft/Davidson/Chandhok triple-headed-monster has been very good on the BBC practise coverage.

BYO curry house at the end of our road. Lager/bitter/wine – take what you like, drink what you like – in whatever order – sorted 😀

Does it have to be DT?

http://www.cyclebasket.com/products.php?plid=m9b87s453p0

if I just buy a cheap set top digital box will this be easy to set up and will it work

The box will be a doddle to set up and in that sense will work…. whether you have sufficient signal strength to allow the box to actually show you a picture is another matter.

Al – yes, by all means wibble away on email as and when you make a start….

Are the tubesets significantly bigger? Often not, so stiffness will be similar, and often there is no brace either.

But the carbon forks with tab fall into two camps a) the tab is metal and integral with the drop-out, this is then bonded to the carbon blade(Pace, Kinesis) or b) fully integrated carbon tabs into the carbon blades (Woodman et al, IIRC). There are reasons why bonded metal/carbon/metal isn’t a good way to go, some are commercial, some are pure engineering/materials

Al – I know it “can” be done (shhhhh – I had a hand in a prototype to test something for, er, somebody…. NDA’s prevent further detail), but it was ugly as sin and even then had only sufficient strength for the intended bodged test before it fell off.

If I was going to do it again I would bring the full power of my commercial tools/software/instruments on it and do the science properly as, IMO, to let it loose in the real world on such a safety crital area was madness – and TBH, I don’t have the time right now (and the time required would be obvious around the office).

Happy to offer hints and tips as you go along, but without doing to the n’th degree as above, you’re man-in-a-shed approach is as good as it’ll get with all the caveats that go along with it.

But the pixie dust (activated by the hidden hologram in the 853 sticker which is aligned with the resonant frequency of the frame) makes is 87.2% better to ride.

Like Balance/Balance Bands for steel you say??? 😉

At what point did I take the ****? I simply said that if you weren’t going to do calcs then trial-and-error and (probably) several versions is the only option open to you and wished you good luck. All the factors that you need to consider to get it work are WAYYYYY beyond a few words on an internet forum – to get it to work first time and sign it off as such would be a reasonably sized commercial project.

I’ve had mounts welded on to various frames

That is the point – welding is a world away from what you are proposing. My day job is strength and fatigue assessments for metal and composite structures, so look elsewhere to hang the web-drone tag thanks. I never said it couldn’t be done…..

Riding it on any-given evening in the rush-hour can be ‘proper mental’ 😉

How are you going to define ‘enough’ without it weighing/costing tonnes? Without any form of calculation it’s thumb-in-the-air and trial and error…. in fact, nevermind. You’re heart is set on doing this so bon chance and make sure the helmet-cam is recording!! 😉

I also know how long it would take to knock up what I am asking for

Which is fine – the bit you don’t know is how long they would take to fail as, per the other thread, you CBA to do the calcs (or let Toys do them!) 😉

Oooo – might be worth a look. Are they closing the road – on a Saturday night?!?

I’ve already got a set of those they’re not that light IIRC!

I guess your definition of cheap differs from mine!

No, but they are reasonably cheap (compared to a lightweight road fork), reasonably light (compared to the cheaper and functionaly similar 700c P2 – 650g compared to ~1000kg) and are well thought out in terms of the detailing (I’ve got two pairs and haven’t found anything to beat them).

At the moment, to get anything better is truly moon-on-a-stick material (IMO).

Clubber – I still have the 700c P2’s mentioned you can have for peanuts if you’re after something like this.

IME, the road caliper/MTB lever will be the better than the other way around, but they will feel very grabby and digital. Up to you if you can put up with that. Also, you may need to keep fettling the pad positions to keep it running as-well-as-you-can and the BB5 isn’t as easy to do this with as the BB7, where the pads can be trimmed from both sides with the dials.

What is the ‘significant difference’ will they not work with what I’ve already got?

XT levers designed for ‘V’ Brakes
105 STi designer for road rim brakes

???

Well, they’ll work fine with the 105 STI’s – as clubber says, they’ll feel wooden with the XT V levers as you’ll have very little lever travel before the pads bite/very little modulation due to the difference in pull ratios.

EDIT – CRC are doing the MTB BB5’s for only £2-a-brake more in their sale……

Do road levers have a different pull length?

Yes. If you’ve ever tried using MTB mechanical discs with road levers (*waves*) you’ll know how much difference it makes, in a bad way.

Thanks for the PSA though… (wanders off to On-One site)

In summary then: man-with-too-much-time-to-think-about-things-thinks-about-something-for-a-long-time-and-makes-no-clear-decision.

No photos, but I built my own based on is identical to the design of the top one here http://edistone.com/Pattern_A_2Bays.html (4m x 1.5m x 1.5m in two bays). A couple of lunchtimes working out the geometry on CAD and working to standard lengths meant the cost of the wood under a 1/3rd of the price they wanted and only took a couple of afternoons to put together from scratch…. and I did go a bit mad and put a roofing felt/batten/cedar shingle roof on it too 😆

Could do with another, as this combined with it’s sister shed constructed under our high-rise decking, only sees us through 3/4s of the winter…. but don’t really have the room…..

You’re best bet will be finding out who are the Tier 1 sub-contractors that the likes of Vestas and Siemens use to actually build/install/operate the sites. You may even get lucky at someone like Garrad Hassan.

With limited direct experience, I think you’ll have to do your homework and pitch yourself at just the right role/company to get an ‘in’ and move up from there.

Best of luck!

Do you think that a leaking heating matrix is something that should be repaired (ie replace said heating matrix) under warranty ? I can tell he does not think so…

Of course he doesn’t want to do it – in most cars it’s an absolute PITA to do and could well lead to further niggly rattles if it all isn’t put back together properly (assuming the dash has to come out to access it).

I’d be asking for the cash back and walk away if you have the chance.