I see CCC is £50/yr as well for private hire (presumably cars and vans), so off to B+Q with you for a one-off or follow the link…..

1. 3 or 4 in winter, 4 or 5 in summer
2. 27 miles
3. N. Bristol
4. 17 – 20 mph

Andy, no mate. I’m up near Dyrham. So I’m across the top into Filton

Snap 😉 Wave if you see a white Pompetamine…..

Get a cat.

I think Streetcar you do, yes….. CCC you don’t (or the other way round) – or you can hire vans from B+Q by the hour, but the cost is a bit more overall.

EDIT: You mind reader, Al…. 😉

Have you got any City Car Club or Streetcar vans near you? Rent by the hour…..

the amount of individuals with psychological conditions is rising dramatically

…well, increased by 1 at the very least….

….fundamentally flawed philosophy and minds that are plagued with negativity

….would sir care to take a look in the mirror….

You run a business, correct? Why not try TNT (other business couriers are available)? Don’t just come on here b!tching about everything under the sun – use you’re brain/vote with your feet and go somewhere else.

Does the light flash/are their additional LEDS on the front – the flash sequence/colour sequence is the fault code on some models.

Have a look at the Dell website for your model for a troubleshooting guide at the very least….

If only it were that simple dean

+1

On a rear wheel, a larger axle is undoubtedly stiffer and stronger….. but as, typically, standard QR’s aren’t snapping left, right and centre….and the amount of flex due to the constrint provided by the frame and hub (and the net tensile force in the QR itself) means you really are in the realms of “marginal gains”…

…. unless you are using a flyweight frame which itself might flex, so a bigger axle will stiffen the frame between the drop-outs, or you’re doing massive drops which might snap an standard QR.

On a fork, the argument is more persuasive as the fork bridge and the axle are the only two things stopping the (reltively flexible) fork legs moving relative to one another…. and the axle/hub will have more effect for less material being right at the end of the fork. Even then, the effect of using bolt-through axles is probably of equal benefit to increasing the axle diameter, with respect to stiffness of the fork legs.

Either will be fine…

richmars +1.

I would favour the Husky (as that what I use and have no probs), and I believe you can still by Husky saws online, whereas I believe Stihl can now only be sold in a face-to-face sale.

Mol and I are both lazy unmotivated creatures….

So he’s like this at home as well???? 😆

Yeah, IS at that vintage.

Whoosh!

😆 and, indeed 😆

for most metallic tubes the dimension listed is the NOMINAL outside diameter

…The actual OD very rarely (edit: if at all, in fact?) corresponds with the nominal OD quoted for the tube.

I think you already know the answer, don’t you….. 😉

In steel, depends on industry, but NPS seems to still rule….

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nominal_Pipe_Size

….. the DN (metric) equivalence table is here….

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/nps-nominal-pipe-sizes-d_45.html

… and the copper (imperial) table is here ( – IIRC, metric copper sizes are just ‘metric-ised’ imperial, i.e. 22mm, rather than 22.225, but I am standing to be corrected on this! 🙂

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copper_tubing#Sizes

Not sure if that actually answers the question you were asking 😉

Completely wrong there TJ

<audible gasp at the horror of such a potty mouth!!>

There is much confusion and conflicting advice on this subject, so I’d advise saving yourself the headache and just getting on to Trading Standards, who will give you specific and qualified advise for your case.

That’s just crazy talk……

Depends on the installation, but generally it keeps the flue liner hotter, which is good for draw as well as stopping creosote deposits (which in turn is good for the liner life and reducing soot/creosote build up).

….that’s because you don’t have a computer…..

but its nowhere near as fugly as that nissan juke

Now we’re getting somewhere… saw one in the flesh the other day and did wonder how anyone with even close to 20/20 vision could be persuaded to hand over their own cash for such a disfigured lump of nonsense.

Part J tells you what you can and can’t do to pass building regs….. or get a HETAS man to have a look at to see what they’d be happy to install, sign off and at what price…..

Will I need a special tool for replacing it or will a screwdriver fit into the back of the bolt?

If the threads are clean/free, it may well undo ‘un-aided’, next step is a deft use of a screwdriver to resist the nut spinning (watch out for stabbing yourself when it slips on the first attempt). If that doesn’t work, chainring tool should fit.

I think No 169 here will do you?? The price is somewhat eye-watering mind…..

http://www.mountainbikecomponents.co.uk/items.asp?CategoryID=74&Name=Giant+Dropout%2FHangers

My current thinking is a woodburner that would heat downstairs. New thermostatically controled panel heaters up stairs. And possibly a solar panel system to supplement the water heating.

Having been in a similar place to you a few years ago, I now realise I should have fitted a stove with a back-boiler feeding a thermal store, supplimented by solar – and electric immersion as a ‘last resort’ 🙄 Next time…. next time……

As mentioned above, do think about the source of wood if you are going to use it for water heating as well – rafter will burn well, but being softwood and very dry you will go through A LOT to keep the stove going!!!!!

Amazing how many people are jumping on this “must have one” bandwagon without giving a thought about where and how they are going to source logs and at what cost!!!!!

Agreed – if I didn’t have a free source of logs I wouldn’t bother. We burn the stove from late Sept til late March and go through 15-20 m^3 of wood. Our gas bill for a 3-bed-semi is under £15 a month, but the flip side is that if I had to buy those logs commercially the bill woudl be at least £1500, so completely uneconomic.

The other big plus, to me, is that the whole process of felling the trees at the turn of the year, splitting/storing the logs in the spring and collecting last years wood at the end of the summer (plus actually burning it over the winter!) adds a really nice rhythm to year.

Conti Cross Country 1.5″ was always my weapon of choice at this size. Any thinner and I seemed to pinch flat for fun and run out of grip really easily.

At that output, how about a Euroheat Harmony 13?

Also, when using these I’ve found it best to attach the hose to the underlying tube to stop it ‘slapping’/damaging the paint, as there is not tension in the hose, unlike in the cable inner it replaces.

<pedant mode>

Toughness is resistance to deformation or bending

Stiffness is the resistance to deformation – toughness, in a material sense, is defined as the ability of the material to resist cracking/arrest crack propagation.

</pedant mode>

If they’re avid rotors, prepare for a little to turn into a lot….. but conversely also prepare for ‘care’ to turn into ‘not care’ at about the same rate.

Result is the same – and will keep me in (half price) commuting tyres for several years……

Super job – thanks. Whole load of tyres on their way to me 🙂

TBH everyone was moaning about the hard tyres – not just Ferrari

….IIRC, didn’t Hamilton do his fastest lap of the race on the hards in the last stink (though I accept he was running on vapours by then and the track was well rubbered in)?

Yeah, what he said – I did find that things improved after spending a few minutes getting the marks to line up EXACTLY. Any make sure the cable run is super smooth as well – no cable drag, kinks, broken outers etc etc…..

Mine’s done nearly 600 miles now, coming up to the first oil change time. I had a bit of slip in some gears initialy, but things have been super smooth for the last few weeks. I know their have been horror stories on here, so I’m not counting my chickens just yet…. 😕

There’s still time to edit the title, y’know….. 😉

Anecdotally, car parts and garage labour are about as high as it gets in Europe, so UK prices may not translate well into Euros. I think some German insurers offer the option to pay in cash to the claimant for the repair (based on a quote), but don’t require you to make the repair (get a main dealer quote, but a back street repair and pocket the difference), so you could make some money, or she could be trying it on…. but as you seem to know the outcome you want, trail-rat speaks the truth!

At the other end, but for comparison, had front bumper, wing, headlight and trim replaced plus paint to those new bits and blown over the door and bonnet at the same time (undamaged, but stone chipped/scratched) on a Focus for a smidge under £2k recently.

Ah, good idea – thanks.

I have tried, and without doing the post weld heat treatment I believe the answer is no… UNLESS you make the weld massive/ugly adding extra material to compensate for the reduced weld material strength.