Would a small blowtorch be any good instead of a soldering iron?

Avoid. You want something with a very high, concentrated temperature to make the joint as fast a possible. You really don’t want to be heating the cell any more than you absolutely have to.

If you’re new cell does not have tags (you can usually buy them with or without), then you can solder directly to the end fo the cells, but all of the above still applies, though more so!

The tags are spot-welded onto the end of each cell – you should be able to solder to the tags, but you will need a BIG soldering iron so you can make the connections without putting heat into the cells as you solder and/or use a heat sink on the tag to protect the cell.

Vice with soft jaws?

Ohh, FFS!!! 👿

…oh, and I agree with them – red/black…. 🙂

What d’ya want them for – racing only/training only/bit of both/dry miles only/all weather??

Pro Race 3’s are nice and fast/supple….. but always seem to cut up pretty fast for me and puncture for fun after that. GP4000s would be the all-rounder from your list with more longevity and pucnture protection, but are still fast and grip (…. all IMHO, obviously…)

<shameless butting-in>

If the OP’s S-Max is too big, I have an 06 Focus Estate about to go onto Autotrader. 1.6 16v petrol, Zetec climate-pack with electric sunroof spec.

</shameless butting-in>

Autotrader and Ebay have the most visibility for classifieds sales and have worked for me in the past (though I accept the Autotrader spam comment) – if it doesn’t go in a couple of weeks the market is either slow or the price is too high.

Any other route (dealer trade-in, WBAC etc – even a car auction) and you will take a hit on the price but with less overall hastle.

Middle to centre – could be different for each eye. Done with a ruler and the trained eye of someone who knows what they are doing as far as I can tell. Important as it centres each lens to the eye (as the frame is effectively symmetric) – no idea what difference it makes, but my PD is different by a good few mm eye-to-eye, as it were.

Order new glasses online are we?

Another Scoot user here….. well, Miss BB…..

Campag to join the fun next year then….. maybe….

http://road.cc/content/news/41825-eurobike-campagnolo-make-date-electronic-launch

I have neither the skills, nor the need for such a device, but I really like that ^^^^

<Disappears to the irrational bike need thread>

Damn you choice…. DAMN YOU TO HELL!!!! 🙂

Cheers gents, LNB sees to be ticking all the boxes.

Straight away they have to be swapped for 172.5 and 44cm bars.

Again, Snap!! TBH, I can’t remember the last off the peg bike I bought for all-of-the-above reasons.

they’re smaller than most, you may find a ‘normal’ bolt doesn’t fit

Never had a problem – Shimano ones are smaller, but standard socket heads do fit, just……

You’re nearly the same as me then – last few times I’ve managed to find a 58cm frame with a short top tube. As you say, getting something just right is hard within a S, M or L sizing system.

If it’s the pinch bolts, defo replace them with something longer – the holes are drilled and tapped right through. The standard Shimano ones are very short and have a habbit of stripping the thread. Standard socket heads will JUST fit in the receesses…..

I used LNB Towbars. Fitted it on our driveway, reasonable price and no problems.

Good stuff – thanks. Spookily, was just looking at their website and thought they looked pretty good/price was right.

tbh, the only people who comment on year old threads are spammers anyway

That was the reason given……

Maybe the thread about this last week should be a sticky for a bit….?

Get a man who knows to come and have a look – it’ll save time and hastle. If it’s simply a case a of changing the boiler control module and adding a simple single wireless thermostat, then it’s going to be ~£100 or so……after that you are into how-long-is-a-piece-of-string/how much do you want to pay/what is compatible with your existing boiler.

Pretty sure Autodesk Viewer is what I’ve used for this as well….

EDIT:May have been for dwg, put if it’ll take igs it has a measure tool.

Weight is cost dependant – if it’s cheap…..

So my question is does the amount of energy used by A go up with B drafting and if so by how much

Energy used by A actually goes down a tad as his wake vortices go around rider B – i.e. rider A mitigates some of his own drag by having rider B behind him ( – IIRC).

Doesn’t feel like that dragging a wheel sucker into a headwind on the morning commute mind!

I’ve got one of these http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/shimano-deore-lx-dh-t665-lx-6v-30w-qr-dynamo-front-centre-lock-disc-hub-prod22286/ hooked up to one of these http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/busch-and-muller-lumotec-cyo+-60-led-headlight-with-bracket-prod18717/. Need to sort out a rear ligth at some point as well, but am happy with a 1/2 Watt and Holy Hand Grenade at the rear for the moment.

Have only used it for the back end of last winter so far. Dynamo isn’t a draggy as I thought/feared (but I do switch to a non-dyno front wheel in the summer). Light power is fine for commuting. Only issue was the lamp failed right at the end of last winter – replaced under warranty straight away, but have yet to do any more than test it works so far this year.

Highlights not on til 10 tonight. Booo 🙁

A 3500km ITT would make the club evening 10 look even more tame…..

Got the 12″ Brian May remix of Star Fleet on vinyl at home somewhere 😳

Must dig out the Ren and Stimpy box set again, with a few beers, obviously….

Is the brake caliper tight?

^^ +1

Trying to keep up with the ITV4 highlights packages – finding the Aussie commentator (AND THE SOUND QUALITY!!!!!) lacking compared to Phil and Paul…. and can someone tell Ned to stop bobbing about everytime he’s doing a piece to camera like he’s sitting on a giant spring!!!!!

Great that it’s on free-to-air though.

Granted a lot of people adjust suspension setting away from what is recommended.

It may be recommended setting, but the fact that so many people use it as starting point and then adjust away from it to find THEIR PERSONAL CORRECT setting is the key point.

Even with road tyres, where the variable range is arguably reduced compared to off-road, my ‘correct’ tyre pressure my be between 90 and 120 psi, depending on conditions.

What did the designer use when testing and perfecting the design.

Ultimately, I suspect they used a lot of pro riders and averaged out all of their opinions – design is compromise process within the original brief.

publish the correct tyre pressures

This is entirely subjective and down to you/your setup/your preferences, hence all they can suggest is a recommend range and a max pressure for safety.

Upper pic – can’t see any way the tows in the woven cloth could have moved as much as the the pic would suggest without the resin matrix cracking – a lot. Cloth must have been like that to start with – plus some 3k woven cloth is usually only put on as a surface layer because that’s what people expect CF to look like.

Lower pic – is it tube/lug/bonded construction or monocoque? Probably a crack in the surface laquer/gel coat, but it is right where a joint would be.

Why do we run our tyres slightly deflated to generate grip (I know its to increase surface area)?

And, perhaps more importantly, to allow the tread to conform to the shape of the trail directly under it. Rock hard tyres don’t allow this, so no matter how good the tread is it won’t work as well (…m’be…)

boom tish… are you here all week? 😆

I always liked the look of the Avante & Egress, but I think for the money they were considered pretty mediocre compared to the competition. If I’d have been spending that sort of money, it would have been on something like a Kyosho Optima Mid.

<Wistful> Yep, Avante and Egress were overcomplicated and expensive. I have a couple of Optima Mid Custom Specials, a Pro Cat and an RC10 from my racing days packed away in the loft. They come out to play every now and again, but compared to brushless they really are pedestrian </Wistful>

…and I blamed the 850 Forklift set for the way my education and career had panned out.

It was the Technics car for me with the (IIRC) V4 engine….. all went wrong from there…. 😉

Any excuse… 😉

http://www.rcracing.tv

4wd buggy worlds finals this year – if you’ve not seen electric buggy’s in the brushless age then have a look….