Stoner +1 – says on the website somwhere that if you are less than “X” weeks (think it was 3) from needing it you need to look at the fast-track/in person options…..

Did Essex CC put a call into NASA – co-ordinates for Dale Farm perchance…. ?

Tough call this – either watch the TT or sit through a 2 hour e-learning course starting in a few mins…. hmmmmm….

Cheers Mike-D, looks like a change to a rear 18T is called for.

I may have – think it’s an 18 – will have a look later. Running 11 speed and started at 44/18 – was only using really using the middle 7 gears, with jumps, so went straight to 44/20 after a week or so and now use 8 or 9 gears regularly (top and bottom seem very high/low respectively). May go down a few teeth on the ring when (IF!) it ever wears out close up the spread a little more.

SKS Chromoplastic vote no 3.

Right, fair enough….. you just go ahead and base your posts on fact then!! 😆

I use the fore-running DC19 on a couple of bikes and they are very nice. As noted, middling weight, but that appears to be the only downer. Do Kinesis not do a disc-specific cross-specific fork (i.e. without the mudguard eyes)? May have imagined that mind and be more expensive…….

I’ve heard that the 5600 STIs aren’t compatible with the 5700 mechs due to different pull ratios.

Believe this is correct, but Mister P will be back in a minute to straighten out compatibility queries 🙂

I was going to suggest a cheap B+B as you should start as you mean to carry on… but realised I got the wrong idea!

Yeah, the thread title promised so much…… 😆

Mountain Cycle San Andreas – Pin-up bike of the nineties, yes, but also ahead of it’s time technically.

For that are running hubs, do you notice much of a drag?

Yes, in the hand…. on the bike, on the move, in the dark, nope. I think I read somewhere that, for the 3W of output you get from the hub, the total drag on your forward motion is about 6W, which is about equivalent to total mechanical drag due to a well maintained geared bike (hubs, BB, seals, drivetrain etc).

Yeah, the B+M one I and ir_bandito use comes with the ‘standlight’ function. I imagine most manus. have a similar technology.

Same as him ^^^^^

It doesn’t really matter if its normal behaviour or not (and I think it is TBH) because she clearly wants rid of your son. Start looking for a replacement arrangement and move on.

+1

Is Unemployment a “Price Worth Paying”?

I think your perspective changes depending on if you have a job or not…. 😕

I just drilled and tapped a 5mm hole in the front of the fork crown to bolt the light bracket into.

I went carbon – Kinesis DC19 – hole already there and the mudguard mounting is neater – IMHO, obv 😉

EDIT: Note the DC19 no longer listed – DC37 is equivalent, bu thas mudguards on the dropouts….

Jebus, that is cheap!!!! 😯

I’ve a Pompetamine with dynamo – see this thread for details and a bit more discussion….

http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/commuter-dynamo-hubs

Been a few threads on here about this over the last week. Selling a car myself at the moment, and the consensus seem to be Ebay first (flat £15 fee for a 28 day classified sale – if you’re naughty, pull the add once it’s sold and even save this…..) followed by Autotrader (~£30 for 2 weeks on the web only, rising in cost from that – expect spam and cold calling…..).

Trying Ebay this time, but the add only went up at lunchtime, so we’ll see…..

As you say it’s to be your winter bike, worth noting there appears to be no drillings in the dropouts or eyes on the forks for mudguards, if that makes a difference……

EDIT: Al beats me to it…..

How much you looking to spend?

http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/shimano-m183n-shoes-experiences

Overal spec and details look identical, bar the Milnes decals – save your tenner?

Might have done the conversions wrong (scanned add, did mental arithmetic quickly so, in true STW style, the following statement should be digested as indisputable FACT!!!!*) are they a little short in the TT for the given size?

* – probably inaccurate, but please check!

Yep, lots of grip – but relatively expensive/wear fast/then cut and puncture for giggles.

As to whether they are worth it or not depends on you/you’re riding.

So, does anyone have any recommendations for a MINI pump, i.e. approx 20cm long?

Topeak Mini Morph

Thats no chatbot, that my wife

A fembot then…. no, wait…… 😆

NZ….

Oh you wags 😉

James266 – I think your argument woudl carry more weight if you a) paid to use the site and b) posted more than classified ads.

+1 – I did read this as ‘non-premier wheeler-dealer would like funtionality added to make said free wheeler-dealing easier for him’…. perhaps I’m just cynical 😉

bristolbiker – we ARE the consultancy!

LOL – We’re busy with oil and gas work as well at the moment, mostly on R+D rather than field work. Not exactly our core client base, but it is paying the bills nicely.

Pompetamine either SS or with an Alfine ticks the boxes. I have a geared commuter, very similar to ADH’s, based on an Airbourne Carpe Diem frame and a Pompetamine with an Alfine 11 – both with discs. Pompetamine is defo proving the weapon of choice now summer is fading – it just keeps going!

Place I’m at is looking out for FEA/CFD mechanical and structual engineers (get in touch)

Looking for consultancy services to fill the gap? 😉

Keep an eye out for NOS on Ebay…… other than that….. er…… sorry….

Insomnia…. no point losing sleep over it…..

Seriously, the wife used to suffer and it was almost always stress related. Sleeping pills did help, but as you note, they can cause stress in themselves.

Since having children she can fall asleep at the drop of a hat – much like me!

I have tried using the specific tools for holding the bolt in place but i can’t seem to get anywhere with it.

Can you be a bit more specific – what tool are you using, and in what way is it not working?

Good point, well made 😆

<Pulls up chair with a nice cup of Assam…..>

Are polycarbonate shell helmets actually painted on the inside?? The shiny surface is actually the unpainted shiney outside surface fo the shell?

Yeah always top service and helpful and knowledgeable after care – but, yes, postage does always seem high and take an age. Being local-ish, I tend to just pop in though…..

Go to garden centre with a shed display, see if you can pick up the ex-display sheds after the end of the ‘season’ – got a lovely new shed coming at the end of Oct this way, half price, free delivery, free installation/new felt etc. I’ve just to sort out the base and tell them when to deliver.

Ring in a small box, wrapped up as a Xmas tree present – opened it on Epiphany as the tree was being put away (we usually save one present for epiphany)

Take ’em to the local tip Waste Transfer Station and they will be recycled. Literally 100’s at my local place waiting to go. Tried shifting a few of mine on Freecycle and couldn’t even give them away there…….

If your battery is not totally FUBAR then drop smudge from mtbbatteries an email and he may be able to help you by replacing the dodgy cells.

Alternativly do waht i did and just buy a battery from him. My battery was well beyond repair – cells had leaked and other horrible stuff.

This is defo sound advice!!!