Schwalbe Durano 28c

Or Durano Plus if you never want to change to a puncture in the dark on a sh!tty night in the rain ever again, and can live with the weight and a slightly slower average.

78% – thats pretty formidable

Or, at the other end of the spectrum ‘…what’s 78% of statistically insignificant…’ as one of my co-workers viewed it 😉

Shameless bump for the day shift……

Do you really need the tread of a Marathon? Using Marathon Plus myself for commuting, and whilst they are truly bombproof, I will be going for either a Durano or a Durano Plus next time.

Option 3 will work with the standard green/blue non-turn washers. You could do Option 2, but you will need to get a set of different angle washers as well as the zip-tie issue you mention.

What kind of warrenty will the dealer give you – ‘good as new’ or just a stock 6 month engine and drivetrain job?

FWIW – don’t think I would.

If Windows, can you not go to Control Panel > Programs > Unistall (or whatever the pathway os for the version you’re using?

GE in bishops cleeve are hiring quite heavily at the moment

You’re not wrong 😯 <….dusts off CV….>

NB: I have no conflict with the OP’s field 😉

RP stuff is effectively a pretty crap sinter? Good for making prototype shapes, but prety crap mechanicaly surely? Would have none of the strength of forged components (or drawn tubes)? Otherwise we’d sinter everything rather than messing arround with drawing tubes/hydroforming/welding.

This was my take on it when I actually looked at it for a complex production item – unless the geometry is so hideous that you can live with the reduced properites you still need to live with the machining costs from ‘real’ material

I was thinking about this on the way home last night and I do recall see a paper at a conference where a polymer and application process has been developed to adhere to CF wings to act as a hard/low friction coating as an anti-ice solution. How hard and how low friction would be the key, but maybe Stoner can have his moon-on-a-stick after all 😉

Mice – not seen any in ours (see: ‘the cat solution’)…. bringing in dormant wasps who then wake up in a nice cosey log basket and proceed to wander round on the carpet in a half-daze was a particular pain last year 😕

<Yoda mode> Truth in that, there is…hmmmmm </Yoda mode>

11-spd servicing is dead simple <cough> http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/dealing-with-an-lbs – all ended ok, eventually 😉 </cough>

make sure you can get spare liners , nozzles and the like for what ever you do buy !

And take the wire out and store it somewhere warm and dry (air cupboard etc) if you don’t use it for a while, as any corrosion on the wire will cause it stick/drag in the feed mechanism

All of the above…..

With my 11-spd on the road I find that bottom is gear is very low and top is way too high – the remainder in the middle are fine, if a little spread. I’m running 44/20, but will prob drop to 42/20 when (IF!) the ring/chain wears out as I’m really only using the 2nd/3rd to 9th gear.

may also lose internal oil volume if the leg wall thickness has to be increased for CF, hence existing damping kit wouldn’t fit in there.

Unlikely – purely from a stiffness point of view, the wall thickness of a CF leg could be thinner for the same OD and as the modulus of CF is a lot higher than aluminium alloys. I accept it is more complicated than that (strength, manufacturability, impact resistance blar-de-blar-de-blar….), but that would be the theory.

A top quality hard resin, polished to within a micron of it’s life,

Moon-on-a-stick at the moment, for a thermoplstic polymeric resin, AFAIK…… if you want to get uber-bling, then metal matrix composites would be the way to go to get a stiff tube and hard outer surface, but they are even more outrageous cost-wise

precast resin cyclinder, internally coated with wet resin, then laid.

I wont be beaten by complications….

You will be beaten on cost 😉

Why would it have to be cheaper?

You have seen the cost of decent forks as it, yes?

cant be too tricky to lay up a CF tube in a thick outer resin coat that is then machined back perfectly cylindrically.

Technically that is quite a challenge – vac bagging during cure will try and minimise the resin thickness, to somehow have a thick outer layer, but still have a high volume fraction for the tube is going to be hard in one operation. Post-fab machining will have its problems as well.

Sure it could be done, but can’t see how it will be cheaper than a metal tube.

@bikebouy

<cough>

bristolbiker – Member
6Music, R4, XFM, Planet Rock…..

</cough>

And, anyway, Flashy agrees, so it must be true – PHACT 😆

6Music, R4, XFM, Planet Rock…..

What Tyres would you recommend to fend off an elephant?

Quite….

There was a thread about this route a while ago…… can’t seem to find it…. your search-foo may be better than mine, however.

personal fave ‘Host Nacho Figueras arrives at the Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Los Angeles on Sunday dressed like a complete tool.’

I was just about to post that one 😉

Maybe give this guy a try http://www.campyoldy.co.uk/

You’ll also have to pay loads to get across the Severn bridge.

Friend has a panel van with external vinyl stickers added to look like tinted/smoked windows…… never been asked to pay the van rate in years 8)

What shoes for dazzle-ship painters….. 😆

French nursery rhymes – just don’t ask…… 😕

Cheap combination spanner….. and pray I never have to use it out in the field. So far, so good 😉

Not a bassline as such, but “The Chain” – FLeetwood Mac

EDIT: Ignore me….

Good work fella – E3 triple is currently on my wish list 😉

Well done you.

Thanks 🙂

Are we talking:

– Cheap-and-cheerful, boil-in-a-bag hi-viz race cape for emergencies
– Middle ground, heavyweight, waterproof (but probably not-too-technical material) “proper” jacket
– Top end, all-singing-all-dancing, waterproof, breathable fully featured and still has to the potential to pack into a volume half the size of an atom?

but not the idea of the hub working it’s way out of the dropout.

I know this has been done to death a thousand times, but I’ve never had this happen, or even come close to it – choose base forks with ‘lawyer tabs’ if you think it’ll be an issue…..

EDIT – WWW – yup, that’s where I may be going with this…

So, effectively, post mount? Done right, could save a bit of weight?

Write it off as bad luck and have another go (with threadlock, as WWW says 😉 ) Oh – and more-power-to-your-arm for coming on here with an update following the previous thread!!!

Would having the mount on the ‘correct’ side of the fork avoided this (to some extent) – if the top bolt fell out, the caliper would have swung forward until it hit the top mount? Still wouldn’t have been pretty, but less likely to pull off the bottom mount?

Thanks Joe – I will look into that a bit more. Getting the full Supernova set (would all colour match nicely 😉 ) is looking like the way to go IF I can be bothered to move away from rear recharagables….

Can’t say fairer than that! Looks like you’ll have to pony up for a pair of Supernovas then

Beginning to seriously consider it……… 😕 😆

What’s wrong with having them mounted to a rack, it makes the most sense IMO.

That’s fine, if you have a rack…. which, I don’t…. and don’t plan to (don’t go far enough for panniers – tried them and didn’t get on with them anyway, but that’s another can of worms that’s been kicked around enough)….

how much was the service if you don’t mind me asking?

My LBS is quoting £30/£40 for 8-spd, £20/£30 for 11-spd

If I bought one I’d get a b+m one

Yeah, but all the B+M ones have massive reflectors on them (to satisfy German regulations IIRC), which basically rules them out of seat post mounting. The E3 rear is just so neat – maybe homebrew is the way forward – care to ellaborate? 😉 Oh – and I thought the rear output was regulated to 0.6W – how do you use a 1W rear LED? (NB: may be a sensible answer here – genuine interest…..)