Think this is the best you’ll do, and should be a pretty good correlation for metals, although directly relating ‘hardness’ to ‘stiffness’ seems a bit iffy being stictly two different physical properties. I know it starts to go a bit wrong if you’re using a material like rubber….

I’ve only found the gordenengland link (and copies of)… so far

<looks confused> Is that not enough? Seems to give you exactly what you’ve asked for, or have we missed something? </looks confused>

….if you are asking is there a way to equate Vickers Hardness to elastic modulus in SI units, then there might be answer to that! 😉

EDIT: …and there you go!

Urban, open road, hills, exposed, sheltered, panniers, rucksac, all weathers – all comes into it. Me – road bike everytime, others will suggest hybrid if there is a lot of urban involved.

we easily munch through 15 m^3 a year with a small 5kW stove.

Is that you only source of heat?

Pretty much, yes – the house is a well insulated 3-bed-semi. We start burning around October and go through til April. The fire will be in constantly in that time. The house has thermostatic GCH, and I can count on my fingers the number of times the boiler has clicked on since we fitted the stove 3 years ago. Yes, my source of wood is free….. 😉

EDIT: …and as suggested above, given that the fule is free, I kick myself everyday that we didn’t fit a bigger stove/backboiler when the hosue was in bits and the chance to route the pipework neatly was there…..

As far as fuel goes, any idea what typical monthly outlay might be?

Varies, depending on wood mix and how dry and seasoned you buy it, but anyting less than ~£75 per m^3 for good dry wood and you’ll be doing well. How much you burn a year is up to you, buy we easily munch through 15 m^3 a year with a small 5kW stove. As others have said, if you don’t have a free source of wood you will struggle to save any money overall and the costs of the stove/flue/fitting is a big up-front cost.

Stock answer, I know – and I haven’t had any done for at least 6 months now, but I usually wait until there is a 2 for 1 or 40% off offer at Photobox and use them. No complaints for the money, even on the biggest panaoramic canvases…. equally, not tried any others either.

My conclusion is that modifying your behaviour to prevent a rare instance of questionably planned crime is basically a massive waste of effort.

Indeed – after several nasty, and potentially even more nasty, incidents on the path, I now take my chances commuting on the roads again. This is a sad state of affairs indeed, but is the reality. 🙁

Open Pros have a silver braking surface, AFAIK

Open Pro CD have a dark braking track, that’ll stay dark if you don’t use rim brakes.

Halo Aerotracks are a bit too wide, have 23c tyres

Really? Run 23’s on mine, no bother.

Condor do some ‘Uno’ rims as well which were another option when I last looked.

That looks like a Mavic logo on the front rim, but beyond that…..

Can you get Halo Aerotracks in matt black? Would be a good alternative.

EDIT: BTW, I was expecting more from the title TBH… 🙂

If I avoid the existing welded area then the new weld will be in areas what have not been previously subjected to heat, so surmise that is should be okay?

In summary, no 😉 If it’s a 6000 or 7000 series alloy frame you will need heat treatment on all the welding you do, unless you make the weld beads so big that the average stress in the welds is tiny (then it will look, at best, ‘industrial’).

Likewise, check the temp of the powercoating system – are you getting up to temperatures/times where you will overage the frame?

bristolbiker – Member

Are you running an E-type front mech/why are the last 3 or 4 threads on the DS cup fine, was it never fully screwed in?

Spacers as usual?

I only ask as there is a whole field’s worth of carp in the ‘good’ threads – if it had been under a spacer or mech plate AND the BB was never loose then they should be clean as whistle if the last time they say daylight was when the BB was fitted? Must have been loose as a wizards sleeve for a while to collect that much crud under a spacer.

Are you running an E-type front mech/why are the last 3 or 4 threads on the DS cup fine, was it never fully screwed in?

Can the frame threads be chased out? Looks like all you BB material has been transferred intot he frame threads?

Where do you stand? No idea – if we’re talking months since the original work was done then (rightly or wrongly) I expect you’ll have a hard time convincing them that they were the cause of the problem.

Reduce your output to match the remuneration you recieve? When questioned why you’re being a slacker you have the perfect conversation starter as to the manner of management support that would develop your output and efficiency.

Maybe not… 😉

If it’s going to be hooked up ‘permanently’, then just change the tyre for a turbo tyre on the standard wheel/chain/cassette and away you go. Loading on the wheel will be a lot less than out in the wild, as it were.

Is nt this like stealing some one elses job

Dave says this is the big society, no? 😉

Once the new sheds arrived and the beehives move back in a decent chicken run is next on my wifes my list of things to do. Good food for thought there!!!

Silverline stuff does it for me at that price point.

To get into print.

Obviously the person you are referring to hasn’t done anything new for awhile, but wants to maintain his/her publishing profile. Lazy so-and-so.

I find it really aggravating, as these sorts take up space in journals that could be used to present new research.

The defence is that the previous RAE assessment criteria required ‘output’ – almost to the point of not caring what it was/how many repeat papers you coudl get (my PhD supervisor got at least 5 out of one subset of my data) – as a judge of research quality and therefore future funding, so it’s just playing the game. As I understand it, the last (and future) RAE’s focused more on quality/uniqueness but was a ball-ache to administer and the gradings were not entirely subjective (quality being determined by a panel in each subject area, all with their oven axes to grind!)…

You know the answer, you wag… 😉

Must not try harder…. 😉

Looks like that photo was shot in ‘wide screen’ and has been displayed in 4:3 format…..

No, I think you were very much involved!! 😉

I’d be surprised if she wasn’t, given that a standard household policy covers you for public liability for incidents caused by your pets.

Indeed (…I’ve a feeling we’ve done something similar before about 3rd party cover and household insurance…..)

Not all Tokais are the same – quality is always good, but some of the cheaper Les Paul – alikes have a bolt on neck, if that bothers you

TBH, at my price point, I’d taken that as a given, so if it’s single-piece, then that’s a definite bonus!

ALmost wish I’d never started this now – currently torn between a 5 or 7-way guitar rack to ‘future proof’ further (possibly drunked) Ebay ‘investments’!!! 😆

Something Nothing will happen, but no one knows when……

FTFY

So, as if by magic, this appears on Ebay and is local – whadda we think?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&&item=140652982599&ssPageName=ADME:B:BCA:DE:1465

EDIT: I’d also like to give one of the N-Gage integrated tuners a go – anyone fitted/used one? Is it easy enough to find space for the battery in an LP body?

…and the HR lady lives with the MD

Whatever else happens, I can’t see this working in your favour.

Tele is a very different beast to an LP, I used one as a main for years as I liked the way I had to beat it

Agreed – best played in a style approaching GBH!!!

But before you part with your money take a good look and play the classic vibe and Fender Classic Series 72 Telecaster Custom telecasters

I am going to take an afternoon to go and play a few, be sure of that….. but the comment about the Fenders and the comment below is pertinant….

Guitars should be good to look at, it makes you want to pick them up.

This is going to sound mental, but neither a Strat, nor a Tele shape – in my head – look like ‘real’ guitars. The right-thinking side of my head knows this is completely daft, but I had my existing Epi SG and a Tele copy for a while and – even though the SG didn’t play as well (many technical reasons for this, mostly relating to the middle-teen metalhead previous owner, now all-but fixed by my friendly local luthier…. and breath….), it would always be the one I picked up to have a twiddle on. Stupid , I know, but the LP and SG shapes just look right.

Agreed though – if I happened upon an LP Custom at the right time and right price…….

<wanders off considering what a simpleton I sound like…..>

Nope.

Guitars should be good to look at, it makes you want to pick them up.

Amen. Thanks all for the input.

Personally I wouldn’t get one with additional electronics, I like em pure though – I think the Plus top buys you a nice wood cap under the paint job, which theoretically should have some influence on the sound, but I think that you’d be hard pressed to tell in a blindfold test through a stack o Marshalls…

This is my feeling as well, save for the fact I don’t have a Marshall stack (just a 10W practise amp), less-than-modest skill and an untrained ear 😉 ….although the Honey Burst Plus Top does stir stange feelings in me….. hmmmmm……

Thanks all. Gonna seriously looking into the Burls route. Looks like I can get what I want at a reasonable/appropriate price.

Helpful as always…. 🙂

New Epi LP Standard is £300, which (to me) doesn’t seem bad money, but point taken.

Currently have an old Epiphone SG, so even at cheaper money, I don’t think I could justify getting another, real one 😉 Looks liek I’ll be sticking to EPi/copy LP’s on my money.

Any thoughts on the original Q?

Have any of the STW axe-heros woken up yet? 😉

Ti’s certainly more weather and neglect-proof…..Ti frames wear mud and scrapes like a commando would, it just makes them look a bit harder.

Now you’re getting the idea! 😉

I kind of agree with you jameso – I have a plain-gauge Ti frame as my all-day-get-the-miles-in-occasional-race bike and for that purpose it is smooth as a smooth thing coated in grease. I agree, it is too noodly to push hard as a true race bike (I’ve done a few crits on it, and it’s limits become very clear very quickly!!)….. but if I could replicate that feel on a commuter then I would be more than happy. The Pomp feels quite harsh charging along broken back lanes and cycle paths, esp at 7am in the dark when I could do with something that will almost get me to work on autopilot!

I plan to keep my Pompetamine/Alfine bike as my long term winter bike and have chased the weight down as far as I can in all the areas I am prepared to compromise (track rims….. shod with Marathon Plus tyres – you get the idea) and the frame is now the next best place to go to lose the best part of 2lb out of the build, with the potential to tweak the geometry a little at the same time to something that will fit me better. Given the tyres will be Marathon+, or equivalent, the overall ride is always going to be more cart-horse than Arabian stallion, so I’ll happily take the weight benefit of Ti over out-and-out performance from the frame.

I take your point that a steel build will open up more options, but I don’t see the need to go over-the-top on a Ti build given it’ll be covered in sh!te for most of it’s life 😉

Is even butted 953 going to give me much of weight saving over boring chromo steel, esp as I (potentially) need some big plates for the track ends which can’t be thinned out (can you even get 953 plate?!?!?). Think the Pompetamine tips the scales at quite a bit north of 2kg, which, by an standards, is a bit of a lump!