An alternative would be 3 or 4 rubber grommets(sic) along the length of the exposed inner cable between the stops to stop the inner cable bouncing directly on the frame

bump for the day shift…..

She happens to work in the hospital – handles the patient complaints process …

😆

polish and lacquer?

…mad, bad and dangerous to know…

Defo not there on the Shimano/130mm ones I’ve had before…..

I’m after a full wheel if poss.

so you’ll need to budget for the sprocket, fitting kit, shifter and wheel build on top of the £50 for the hub…. so still probably over £100 unless you can find the bits second hand.

Difficult to see in the pics, but now tend to agree with al/Ben – they look like they are non-removable…. I stand corrected.

The posts should have flats ground into the them, near the frame bosses, so you can get an open ended spanner on them and unscrew them.

Can you unscrew the posts from the frame bosses? Could then put some blanking plugs over the top. Not perfect, but about as low-profile as it gets without the aforementioned hacksaw/file double-act.

Erm…no…the arm has a circular cable guide which means this is not the case

Correct

That only covers you for a small range though, still good practice to have good alignment.

Also correct – to the extent that if the you have the caliper aligned correctly and the pad clearance minimised, then the circular cable guide on the end of the arm will maintain a constant pull radius over a much bigger range than will be required.

(BB7 Road user on 2 bikes…)

Our apple tree will be useless as well this year. The fruit that’s on it looks OK, but there will only be a handful of apples compared to previous years. Have a couple of esplanaded(sp?) pear trees as well, one of which is completely loaded with fruit, the other hasn’t got a single pear on it. Weird.

@bristolbiker – it’s a Kona carbon fork (assuming it’s the original fork that came with the Honky Inc.) and yes has eyelets + caliper hole + a ton of tyre clearance (could run 35’s easy)

Ah, OK – Running DC19’s on both my disc’ed road bikes – one pair is looking a bit tired, so I’m ‘exploring options’….. criteria are that they have mudguard eyes, and retain the brake hole for fitting dynamo lights to the forks.

Very nice – what fork is that/does it have mudguard eyes/does it still have the top hole for a caliper brake?

+1 for The Road – stayed with me a long time, that one 😉

Currently reading American Gods/Neil Gaiman, based on a recommendation from another thread, which has drawn me in completely…

Bristol – why don’t you just drill out a cheap track sprocket to fit the disk bolts on your alfine and run it as a fixie without the rear brake for a bit?

So, I get all the weight of the Alfine, but not gears! 😉 I want to go back to the Alfine, just want to try out fixed/ss. I’m leaning towards a fixxer, as I have a spare set of wheels and can chop and change between fixed/ss with a single wheel.

The disc hubs from Tartybikes don’t have threads for a lockring.

Really? I thought this ticked all the boxed (bar centrelock), but I am entering new terrain, for me, here….

http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/135mm_fixed_hubs/because_rear_disc/c21p11318.html

flange – very very generous, yes Bristol based.

I have had a wobble to work before on a front-brake-track-bike, which was fun in a saddistic/mentalist kind of way, so I have some idea what I’m letting myself in for.

This is just idle thinking for the moment – I want to try my Pompetamine without the Alfine and am weighing up how much that might cost. I might yet woss-out and do it with an SS sub, or get a fixxer and convert my spare geared commuter wheels for the winter…..

Although the fixie lot might say that if you’re running fixed, you don’t need a rear brake….

Quite right…. and if I had an ounce of self belief in my own abilities I would knock the rear disc on the head….. but I don’t 😉

Yes, DMR do their Revolver for 6-bolt disc and screw-on freewheel. If you want to run it fixed get a bolt-on cog to replace the disc rotor

I want to run it fixed AND a disc – I think what you are saying would mena one or the other.

The Surly hub eats bearings.

Winter road riding only – still a problem, d’ya think?

EDIT: Good shout for Tartybikes – thanks – looks like I can get something to fit the bill.

Fair enough – maybe SS then, rather than fixed. I think Superstar etc do something for ~£60? Thanks.

EDIT: Looks liek the Surly hub is availabel in silver…. or maybe one of these would sort me out – build a centrelock, fixed, Shimano hub. Hmmmmm – food for thought….

http://surlybikes.com/parts/fixxer

Overshoes. Pro Tarmac H20 for rain and cold. Pro Tarmac NPU for the really cold days.

Same here….

Sadly its not the ti one, just plain old aluminium.

Same here then 😉 I’ve got around the rear mudguard issue by using two seperate guard stays (take a normal SKS ‘double’ stay and cut one of the arms off, just after the bolt loop), separately mounted under each caliper bolt head – solid and clean looking. Just had mine powdercoated – looks as good as new again! If a 56cm Ti one comes up (or a VN Amazon, as the good druid says), I will get that and swap the bits – I’ve also got a Airborne Lancer ‘race’ frame and that is a lovely thing to ride all day fast…..

If it’s an Airborne Carpe Diem (Ti, if you’re a lucky get), then that has all the drillings you need and will go to the ends of the earth – and back – without issue. However, the geom leans towards ‘fast-touring’ but the (Ti frame) ride is as smooth as warm butter to compensate….. if you want ‘traditional toruing frame’ then carry on looking/dreaming 😉

Thw wife is having a similar issue: when reply to an email, the ‘To’ slot is empty and can;t be populated from her contacts – has to be entered manually. Can’t remember if she’s tried it in a new email…. Also came up with nothing from a cursory Google….

Hmmmmm…. on my to-buy list this winter…. subject to piccy’s 😉

I’d say give fixed a shot. I’ve got a fairly hilly route to work, 25 miles each way and ride it fixed. The simplicity makes it much more fun and being fixed rather than SS makes it much more of a work out, especially when I ride with lads from the office on geared bikes. I actually enjoy riding SS more but it makes me lazy

Good stuff – may give it a whirl. I got a very dirty look/strong words from a guy on a fixed earlier in the week who I sat on for a good 5 miles on the way to work at ~22mph while riding the Pomp. That’s slightly faster than I can sustainably go on the flat on the Pomp – pretty sure he thought I was taking the p!ss when I said I could come through and do a turn, but we’d have to go ALOT slower!

flange – am thinking of changing the rear wheel and experimenting with a single speed set-up next winter, just to see how much difference/easier it is to ride without dragging the Alfine around.

Again, just to be clear, I am impressed with each element of the bike on its own/for what it is – it just doesn’t seem to add up tot he sum-of-its-parts somehow….

To be fair, as the road.cc review says, it’s not really the frames fault – the hub is a big lump of mass, which seems to take ages to wind up to speed (…and then gives up that speed at the mearest hint of an incline – false flats and/or a draggy headwind are soul destroying) and even then anything beyond ~20 mph is but a dream without a downhill to help. The fact that you WILL run a puncture proof rear tyre (started with a Marathon Plus, but have relented to ‘just’ a Durano Plus which has improved things noticably) to avoid changing a rear flat ‘in the wild’ just adds to the general feeling of not going anywhere fast. The speed differential is measurable – my typical total daily commuting time is 1:35 on my 105/10spd bike (nominally the same build as the Pomp, bar the obvious differeneces), and I have NEVER been quicker than 1:45 on the Pomp.

Overall, I have a very love-hate realtionship with it; it is genuinely bomb-proof (I have had zero road-side issues in 18 months/two full winters/ ~7000km of riding), but everytime I sit on, after cresting the first hill of the day, I wish I was riding my geared bike.

Pompetamine/Alfine 11-spd here…. “heavy” as in ‘…. I don’t fancy riding this, unless it’s dark and I have no visual references for how slow I’m actually going”.

Don’t get me wrong, its great for what I use/built it for – an all winter, tough-as-old-boots, commuter that you can just sit on, pedal, and it will plough through anything….. but I will, in all other circumstances, choose not to ride it as it so heavy, slow.

I think the road.cc review sums it up quite nicely:

http://road.cc/content/review/48378-one-pompetamine-versa-11

So if anyone knows of a bunkhouse with a decent ale pub and some good walking nearby then let me know please!

http://www.thecastleinn.co.uk/

May or may not be local to you 😉

Had a similar thing on a road frame prepping it for powder coating – tried to take out the down tube barrel adjusters and they both snapped off. Did what you are suggesting – drilled out the stuck adjuster and thread in the boss and replaced with the barrel adjuster parts of this set:

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/modolo-morphos-down-tube-stops-set-prod20642/

All plastic (bar the retaining nut), been sound since, and should be no future issues.

Off course, I had the destinct advantage that I was re-coating the frame, so a few marks from the drill chuck trying to get the bit straight could be covered up after the event…..

I struggle with long sentences

However, I commute of that section the OP mentions every day and it is a) about as good as it gets b) much niocer than riding on the adjacent roads (it basically a four lane motorway, in all but name adjacent to M32 and a 2 lane Mway elsewhere!) c) if I see more than 2 pedestrians on that section each way, then it’s classed as MENTAL BUSY!!!!!

Have also observed people taking their life in their hands on the road and wondered ‘why bother’ – it’s not even any quicker.

Highly recommend Cleave Plumbing – ignore some of the hyperbole on the website (it was created as a favour by a friend of his, more as a holding page that a true business tool), just give him a call. DOES respond to emails as well 😆 Stu is a top bloke and works like a horse. He has a friend, Adam, who is a cracking builder as well….

http://www.cleaveplumbing.co.uk/

Quality-wise they are 100% completely fine i’d be impressed if you could tell any difference between them and DT. They are actually used as an example of a good spoke in the “Touring bikes” book…

Just to clarify, structurally, as I noted, I have had no issue – though I’ve not done anything super-gnarr on my road commute 😉 OTOH, I have found that the black anodising on the ACI spokes is not particularly hard wearing. After a relitively short time my black spokes had turned into something approaching gun-metal. Never had this with many sets of DT. Could be a bad batch/not a problem with silver/etc/etc, and overall I’m still happy considering the price.

Have a look for ACI as well as Sapim for budget spokes. Can be had cheaper than than DT – quality probably isn’t as good, but the last set I had we under 1/3rd the price of equiv DT DB spokes and have lasted fine.

Having said that, it’s worth a trawl on Ebay, esp if you need an ‘ofdd length. Had 64 new DT Competitions, with nipples. off Ebay a few weeks ago for £25 plus P+P….. and these were 292mm, so not especially obscure for 700c.

Why bother – range on the 11-spd isn’t an issue. On the road, mine is geared so 1st is my bail-out gear and I rarely get into top (44/20). Even then gear spacing is fine. Offroad – can’t comment….

Then when the lights turned he couldn’t get his foot in his carbon clipless pedal.

Had one of those as well yesterday morning…. he’d gone through 4 red lights on the trot previous to this (One of them was down hill through a cross roads, to which his entry was completely blind by houses on each corner – he went through at 30+mph without even looking…. I just looked away for a few seconds, to avoid seeing the accident 😉 He maded it, but appeared ablivious to be nearly flattened by a bus!)

Also, noticed 3 people in full Sky kit on the way home last night – one of them even completed the look with a Chinarella Doogpoo!

i’m tempted by Di2 too, although I’ll probably wait a year or two as I suspect it’ll follow DA and go 11 speed and gain the smaller servo’s. Apparenly ultegra used off the shelf servos whereas shimano custom made the ones in DA, hence it’s neater apperance.

Not so concerned by this now – the fact they seem to have settled on a wiring harness means you should able to mix-and-match (at a cost!) but going 11-spd (just change/reprogram the control box for different shift intervals and a new cassette/chain?)…. hydraulic disc options (just change the shifters) means, other than cost (….did I mention cost…..), it should even more interchangable than its mechanical cousin.

http://www.cyclingnews.com/news/cavendish-may-want-more-than-sky-can-offer

My money is on OPQS as well…

Ecotricy will do small business quotes…. worked out cost-netural for us compared to the big boys and service is great. As above though ‘…it depends…’ so there is little choice but to shop around for the best deal.